Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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Bearing Buddy

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Caps

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Bearing Protector Grease Cap

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1.98 Inch

Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980T-SS - Threaded - Stainless Steel (Pair)

Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980T-SS - Threaded - Stainless Steel (Pair)

Item # BB1980T-SS

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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BB1980T-SS - Bearing Protector Grease Cap Bearing Buddy Caps
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Great for marine applications; the stainless steel construction provides the best in corrosion resistance. The design makes Bearing Buddy an easy way to protect your bearings by keeping water out and ensuring enough grease is in the hub. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Bearing Buddy. Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980T-SS - Threaded - Stainless Steel (Pair) part number BB1980T-SS can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (27)
  • Q & A (35)
  • Videos (2)
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Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BB1980T-SS

  • Caps
  • Bearing Protector Grease Cap
  • 1.98 Inch
  • Bearing Buddy

Great for marine applications; the stainless steel construction provides the best in corrosion resistance. The design makes Bearing Buddy an easy way to protect your bearings by keeping water out and ensuring enough grease is in the hub.


Features:

  • Replaces threaded grease cap in the axle hub
  • Prevents wheel-bearing failure
    • Keeps water and dirt out of hubs and bearings
    • Allows boat trailer wheels to be completely submerged
    • Stops corrosion and pitting on bearings
  • Provides easily accessible grease fitting
    • Makes adding grease to the bearings quick and simple
  • Maintains slight, controlled pressure (3 psi) with spring-loaded piston, preventing water from entering hub
  • Prevents overfilling and rear seal damage with automatic pressure-relief feature
    • Grease seeps around piston edges and into barrel when full
  • Constructed of stainless steel
    • Ensures longer-lasting fit than plastic or aluminum products
  • Includes rubber covers
  • Installs easily
  • Made in the USA


Specs:

  • Fits 1.980" hub bore
    • Works with all internally threaded hubs
  • Bearing Buddy recommends using a grease proof gasket cement when installing
  • Lifetime warranty


Bearing Buddy installed diagram

Bearing Buddy Operation

Replace your existing grease cap with a Bearing Buddy to ensure a safe, easy way to monitor and control the level of grease in your axle hub. To adjust the amount of grease in the hub, use a grease gun to add more through the appropriate fitting. Adding grease moves the Bearing Buddy spring-loaded piston outward 1/8".

The O-ring inside the barrel of the Bearing Buddy maintains a seal from the outside. The interior of the Bearing Buddy is pressurized, preventing water from entering the barrel and diluting the grease.

An automatic pressure-relief feature is built into the Bearing Buddy. When the device is full, grease will seep around the edges of the piston and into the barrel. This prevents overfilling that can damage the inner seal.

You can manually check the grease level in your Bearing Buddy by pressing on the edge of the piston. If you can rock or move the piston, the hub is properly filled.



42118 Bearing Buddy Model 1980T-SS - Threaded - Stainless Steel (Pair)







Video of Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980T-SS - Threaded - Stainless Steel (Pair)


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980T-SS - Threaded - Stainless Steel (Pair) - BB1980T-SS

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (27 Customer Reviews)

Great for marine applications; the stainless steel construction provides the best in corrosion resistance. The design makes Bearing Buddy an easy way to protect your bearings by keeping water out and ensuring enough grease is in the hub.

- BB1980T-SS
by:

I have a '66 Avion with GM hubs and wheels. The threaded grease cap was damaged and I had a lot of trouble trying to find a replacement. These threaded Bearing Buddy's worked perfect and added the convenience of being able to add grease! I'm going ahead and replacing the rest of the grease caps as well. 204186



- BB1980T-SS
by:

Was not able to find threaded bearing buddies locally these arrived quickly and were just what I needed! 303522



- BB1980T-SS
by:

I haven't move the trailer after I put the BB1980T-SS grease cap on it. They started on pretty good then got harder about mid way on, so I got a pipe ranch to get them all the way on but over all it wasn't very hard to do it only took about 15 minutes to complete the project which is good. They really set the trailer off because the trailer is painted Black. 226220


Comments

Yes the cap work OK guess I made one trip with them. It was from my home at Gulf Breeze Tiger Point, FL back to Sulphur Rock, Indepentence Co, AR which is about little over 600 miles one way and they did really great.

william C - 09/21/2016

21133

- BB1980T-SS
by:

I have a 1969 Metzendorf camper that I just had new bearings installed on. I wanted to put bearing buddies on it so I can grease them on long trips. I wasn't sure what size I needed and they needed to be threaded . I sent etrailer a message one evening asking which bearing buddies I needed and I received a message the next morning with the answer to my question. I ordered them and I received the tracking information for my order. I received them in a few days and my son installed them for me . They fit perfectly!! I'll be sure to order from etrailer in the future and I'll tell my friends what good service I received. 421211



- BB1980T-SS
by:

Very pleased with the product. Great video on installation. Experience with etrailer Was even better. Madison P was exceptional with her help. Overall a truly great experience 715588



- BB1980T-SS
by:

Threaded bearing buddy. I used it on a 1955 travel trailer. There threads were the right pitch but thread diameter was too large on the bearing buddy. I made it work after cursing. 658205



- BB1980T-SS
by:

Exactlu what i ordered . Quick delivery . Perfect 518689



- BB1980T-SS
by:

Product arrived as advertised even before I expected it. Excellent group of people to deal with. Highly recommend doing business with them 473824



- BB1980T-SS
by:

These caps are very hard to find. They fit perfectly. I will definitely recommend etrailer. 418708



- BB1980T-SS
by:

Good selection for my snowmobile trailer, by ski boat trailer, my fishing boat trailer and our motorcycle road racing enclosed race/shop trailer. My first stop for my trailer needs. This product is hard to find - lot's of places carry bearing buddies in the 1.98" press-fit size - even the local auto shops - but try to find the threaded version? That's when you go to etailer.com, knowing that its pretty certain they have the stuff you want and need. Quick shipping, good communication - rock stars for your trailering needs. 414578



- BB1980T-SS
by:

Great price and they fit perfectly on my motorcycle trailer. Thank You. 348161



- BB1980T-SS
by:

Product is great, sadly, I ordered the wrong one, am returning it. 306052



- BB1980T-SS
by:

etrailer did everything right, shipped same day, gave tracking advice, fair price for product and shipping. Follow up upon delivery all reasons to recommend, and buy from etrailer again 287347



- BB1980T-SS
by:

Easy to install and work great well worth the money!!! 284258



- BB1980T-SS
by:

Fast service and great price, fit perfectly. They even look better than the factory caps. 240926



- BB1980T-SS
by:

I bought these ( BB1980T-SS) to convert my Reliable oil bath hubs (EZ-Loader trailer) to greased hubs. The oil caps on my hubs are listed as 1.980", but these do NOT fit the 1.980 Reliable oil bath hub, even though .they're advertised as fitting all threaded hubs. According to Bearing Buddy the ones needed are their 2080T-SS model. These have the look and feel of a very high quality product, would have given them an excellent rating if not for the confusion over the correct sizing. 141067


Comments

I purchased the 2080T-SS bearing protectors which the Bearing Buddy people tell me is the correct size for my hubs. Havent installed them as yet as I had to refill the hubs with oil when I received the wrong size Bearing Buddys. Ill probably do the oil to grease conversion this Fall, or next Spring.

Allen E - 07/12/2015

13310

- BB1980T-SS
by:

Never thought that I would find a threaded Bearing Buddy. eTrailer had what I needed in stock and had them to my door in just a few days. Installed without a problem. Thanks AGAIN eTrailer!! 102035



- BB1980T-SS
by:

These things are great. I have them on my bass boat , utility and pop up trailers 95457



- BB1980T-SS
by:

It was a hard product to find and you had just what i was looking for 62726



- BB1980T-SS
by:

The original and still a great product. I have threaded hubs and could not find anyone else that made a product for them. Bearing buddies work great. They're easy to install and easy to maintain. My shortest trip with my boat is about 45 miles and my longest is over 700. I wouldn't dream of traveling without them. 43078



- BB1980T-SS
by:

Installed and working, thanks for the great service! I will book mark you for future use. 39130



- BB1980T-SS
by:

Have recieved, and all is good. 35634



- BB1980T-SS
by:

very good fast shipping 34034



- BB1980T-SS
by:

I had some difficulty finding the correct fit for my requirements on your site, and called your customer service number. This was totally not the fault of your site, it was just a difficult item to be sure about fit, and size. The person that I spoke with was very knowledgeable, social, and helpful. Everything worked perfect, and my parts are installed exactly as required. Thank you and keep up the good work. R. S. 31810



- BB1980T-SS
by:

Great product. So much easier than crawling under the trailer... Fit just as they should 26387



- BB1980T-SS
by:

I recently purchased two of these bearings to replace my ( Reliable ) oil bath caps on my easy loader trailer. I have yet to install them but was very pleased to find that a threaded model was available and if they work as well as I expect I will replace the other two in the future. 16365



- BB1980T-SS
by:

Easy to find and order my special threaded Bearing Buddies. Excellent communications throughout the entire order and shipping process. I received package two days after it arrived because it required a signature. Had to travel to PO to pick it up. Did not like that as the USPS normally just drops stuff off. Would have given an excellent if not for that. 16268


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Ask the Experts about this Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • How to Monitor Grease in Hub With Bearing Buddies
  • These are good questions so I will answer them in the order you asked. 1) When using Bearing Buddies the inspection will be done depending on which model you use. For Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A w/ Auto Check # BB1980A there is a blue indicator ring which will gives you a visual indicator of the amount of grease in your hub; this ring needs to be flush with the top of the cylinder. If it is under the cylinder you simply need to add grease until the piston is 1/8" outward....
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  • Difference Between Bearing Buddy 1980 Models
  • The model 1980 Bearing Buddy simply means that they fit a 1.980 inch hub bore. There is one difference of note between Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980A (Chrome Plated) or # BB1980A-SS (Stainless Steel) and the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980T-SS which is that the latter - with the "T" in the part number - means that it is threaded and fits internally threaded hubs.
    view full answer...

  • How to Pick out Bearing Buddies
  • In order to pick out the correct bearing buddy you will need know the pilot hole of your hub. To do this, remove the wheel and tire and remove the grease cap from the center of the hub. Usually it is a metal cap that is just lightly hammered into place. Use a screwdriver to pry off the cap. Clean the grease off and measure the opening. I have included a video demonstrating the Bearing Buddy. The Bearing Buddies # BB2441 that you referenced are for hubs with a 2.441 inch hub bore. I...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Hub and Easy Lubrication Kit for 2,000 lb Axle
  • Unfortunately there are no oil bath hubs available for your specific application. The only ones that are made fit larger hubs. If you would like a solution that is easier than standard grease application (packing your bearings) then I recommend going with some Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors. These are perfect for solutions where EZ Lube spindles aren't in place as they provide a grease zerk fitting as well as a way to see when you have pumped enough grease into your hub space (see...
    view full answer...

  • Locating Correct Bearing Buddy to Replace Turbo Lube Cap on Trailer Hub
  • I was unable to find any information on the turbo lube cap mentioned in your question. To determine the correct Bearing Buddy replacement, you will just want to measure the pilot hole on your existing hubs. This will ensure that the Bearing Buddy will fit into place on the hub. For example, the Threaded Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980T-SS you were looking at are designed to fit 1.980 inch hub bores. I have included a link that will take you to our available selection of...
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Buddy Recommendation for Threaded Hub Bore
  • Bearing Buddy does have options for thread hubs like what are seen on oil bath setups. We only have three options though: # BB1980T-SS for a 1.980 inch diameter # BB2441T-SS for a 2.441 inch diameter # BB2080T-SS for a 2.080 inch diameter
    view full answer...

  • Which Bearing Kit and Seals Do I Need for Escort Trailer with Inner Bearing L68149 and Outer L44649
  • BK2-100 is the right bearing kit since your inner bearing is L68149 and your outer is L44649. The seal that is included in the kit is the right size for that bearing configuration. We offer 3 Bearing Buddy kits in the 1.980 size. Drive-in chrome, part # BB1980A, drive-in stainless, part # BB1980A-SS and thread-in stainless, part # BB1980T-SS. I have added links to them below.
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors for Hub Bore of 1.998-Inch
  • All sizes of our Bearing Buddy bearing protectors are shown on the linked page. The Bearing Buddy size to match the hub bore dimension is the 1.98-inch type, such as # BB1980A-SS in stainless steel or # BB1980A in chrome finish. These are non-threaded. For a threaded Bearing Buddy in this size use # BB1980T-SS.
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  • How to Choose the Correct Replacement Bearing Buddy Bra
  • The plastic caps for the Bearing Buddy bearing protectors that you are looking for are the Bearing Buddy Bras. We carry three different bras, # BB17B, # BB19B and # BB23B that fit different ranges of Bearing Buddy sizes. You should choose the Bearing Buddy bra that will fit your model bearing buddy. The model numbers that these bras fit are listed on the product page. If you do not know the model of your Bearing Buddy, then you can measure the bore hole diameter on your hub with a precise...
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  • Do You Still Need to Pack Hub Bearings If Bearing Buddies are Used
  • You will want to pack the bearings with grease as you are reinstalling the trailer hubs. Check out the video I attached to see how this is done. The bearing buddies are a great way to make sure the assemblies are topped off with grease, but you still want to pack them initially. You may also be interested in the bearing packer part # L70025. Review video attached as well.
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  • How to Convert Oil Bath Trailer Hubs to Grease Hubs
  • Actually all you really have to do is remove the oil from the hub and then pack the hubs with grease and then get the correct bearing buddy to match the threaded hub bore. You will need to measure the inner diameter of where the old grease cap installed on your hub to pick out the correct bearing buddy. If that measurement is 1.98 then you would wan the # BB1980T-SS, if it's 2.080 inches and has 12 threads per inch then you'd need part # BB2080T-SS, if it's 2.44 inches you'd want the...
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  • How to Measure to Confirm Size of Bearing Buddy Grease Cap Bearing Protector
  • You'll want to check both the hub bore diameter and confirm if it is threaded or non-threaded as you select a Bearing Buddy grease cap bearing protector for your hubs. The best way to measure the hub's inside bore is with a digital caliper like # PTW80157. This will give you the precise bore dimension to ensure a proper fit. And if your hubs are the threaded type you'll want to use a threaded Bearing Buddy like # BB1980T-SS which fits a hub bore of 1.980-inches. I also linked an article...
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  • Bearing Buddy to Fit Boat Trailer Hub with 1.9-Inch Threaded Hub Bore
  • The Bearing Buddy Threaded Bearing Protectors you referenced, part # BB1980T-SS, are the only ones that are close to your hub bore measurement of 1.9-inches. The other two sizes are both over 2-inches. These should fit your threaded hubs. Please note that the depth of the threaded portion of this part is 5/16ths of an inch. Bearing Buddy recommends using Perma-tex or another grease proof gasket cement when installing these bearing protectors.
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  • Is There a Bearing Buddy that is Threaded Comparable to a 2240?
  • I contacted Bearing Buddy to see what threaded cap they recommend for your application to convert from oil bath to grease. They said that the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors, # BB2441SS, is most likely the application for your trailer based on the 2240 question. This Bearing Buddy threaded grease cap has 12 threads per inch, as does # BB2080T-SS, but there are other threads like the # BB1980T-SS which has 24 threads per inch.
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  • Is it Advisable to Replace Both Boat Trailer Hubs on Venture Single-Axle Boat Trailer
  • Primarily for safety reasons, we always recommend replacing both sides of trailer axle components, whether brake assemblies, bearings, races, hubs or all of the above. This will ensure even performance. It will also provide a similar future working lifespan for both sides of the axle, which will avoid the potential need to have to soon repeat the dis-assembly/repair process. Venture offers both single- and tandem-axle boat trailers. Based on your description I presume you have a single-axle...
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  • How to Measure Bearing Buddy to Pick Out Bra
  • What you can do is measure the outside diameter of the Bearing Buddy with a digital or dial caliper and then you can pick out a bra for it based on that. So if yours measures right at 2 inches in diameter for example you would want the part # BB19B. If it's 1.7 inches you would want the # BB17B or 2.3 inches part # BB23B.
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  • Recommended Bearing Protectors for Boat Trailer Hubs with a 1.98 ID
  • If you have a hub that requires the protector to be threaded in I recommend the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980T-SS, but if you just need protectors that you tap into the hub with a block of wood and hammer, then I recommend the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980A-SS. Both of these will fit a hub with an Inner Diameter of 1.98 and are constructed of stainless steel which will help prevent corrosion. They have a grease zerk fitting to make it easy to add grease and a cover...
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  • Recommended Bearing Kit With L44649 Bearings As Well As Grease Caps For Marine Application
  • I recommend you get two bearing kits # BK1-150 along with the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980T-SS - Threaded - Stainless Steel (Pair) # BB1980T-SS. These are made specifically for marine applications. If you want regular grease caps, you will want # RG04-020. These are 1.988 inch outer diameter and the closest to the measurement you gave that we carry with the exception of the Bearing Buddy Caps.
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  • Recommended Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors for Dexter P-16 Axle
  • I spoke with my contact at Dexter regarding the axle on your trailer. He stated that this is a 2,200 pound axle that uses the # L44649 inner and outer bearing. With this in mind, the correct size Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors will be the part # BB1980A for Chrome Plated or # BB1980A-SS for Stainless Steel. If you have a threaded grease cap in your hub, you will want the threaded model # BB1980T-SS. These Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors are designed to fit 1.980 inch hub bores and...
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  • Threaded Bearing Buddy Recommendation for Oil Bath Hub with Outer Bearing L44649
  • Most likely you'd need the part # BB1980T-SS as this it the kit commonly used for hubs that have outer and inner bearings of L44649. Since we don't know your inner bearing or hub bore diameter it's hard to say for sure but most likely this is correct.
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  • Recommended Threaded Bearing Buddy for Hub Bore 1.980 Inches
  • For your threaded bearing buddy, I recommend the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980T-SS - Threaded - Stainless Steel (Pair) # BB1980T-SS. This fits an internally threaded hub bore 1.980 inches.
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  • Threaded Bearing Buddies for 1.988 Inch Hub Bore
  • Bearing Buddies # BB1980T-SS are going to be the best match for your 1.988 hub bore. Nothing else we have comes close. These are threaded Bearing Buddies, the only option in this size that is threaded. For 2 pair you would just change the quantity to 2 in the quantity box before clicking add to cart.
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  • Dust Cover For Trailer Hub Bearings on 2004 Shorelander Boat Trailer
  • The Bearing Buddy Replacement Covers, # BB19B, are made to fit the Bearing Buddy bearing protectors. If the bearing protectors that you have say 1.980, then that would be the size you would need. The only dust covers I sell separate are for the Bearing Buddy brand. For your size I do have the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A w/ Auto Check - Chrome Plated (Pair), # BB1980A, the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair), # BB1980A-SS,...
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  • Which Bearing Buddies Fit Trailer Hub # 34822545BX
  • You will need Bearing Buddies that fit a 1.98 diameter hub bore. We have several models. For stainless steel use # BB1980A-SS. For chrome plated use # BB1980A. And, if the hub is threaded, use # BB1980T-SS. I also recommend special seals for use with Bearing Buddies, # BB60001, to prevent having a blow out with a regular seal.
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  • Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors for Trailer Hub with 1.98 Hub Bore and L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings
  • Based on the inner and outer bearings, L44643, you should need 1.98 bearing protectors. In this size we have several options: Stainless Steel, # BB1980A-SS Chrome Plated, # BB1980A For threaded hubs, # BB1980T-SS Kodiak brand, # KREB1980AC
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  • Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors Needed for a 1965 Shasta Trailer
  • The Bearing Buddies, # BB2047, are pressed into the hub for a tight fit. To determine the correct part for your trailer hub you will need to measure the diameter of the grease cap mating surface in the hub and match that as closely as possible to the measurements provided on the bearing buddy product pages, see link. If your grease caps are threaded, the Bearing Buddies, # BB1980T-SS, # BB2441T-SS or # BB2080T-SS, may be the correct size for your hubs, measuring to determine the correct...
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  • Threaded Bearing Buddy Recommendation for a 1.980 Diamter Hub Bore
  • The Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980T-SS that you referenced is the closest threaded bearing buddy we offer to yours that measures 1.85 inches in diameter. This bearing buddy is designed to work on hub bores that measure 1.98 inches. You might try measuring yours again and be sure to get an exact measurement with a dial or digital caliper.
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  • How to Pick Out Threaded Bearing Buddy for Replacing Oil Bath Cap
  • I wasn't able to find any reference to your oil cap or dimensions so what you'll need to do is measure the diameter of your cap so that we can determine if there's a threaded Bearing Buddy that would work. For example, we have the part # BB2080T-SS for if your hub bore is 2.08 inch in diameter, part # BB1980T-SS for 1.98 inch, or part # BB2441T-SS for a bore of 2.441 inch.
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  • Bearing Buddies for a Diamond B Trailer with 1.98 Inch Hub Bore
  • For a 1.98 hub bore you have several options for bearing protectors. From Bearing Buddy you can use # BB1980A-SS for stainless steel, # BB1980A for chrome-plated, or # BB1980T-SS for stainless if you need a model that threads in. And from Kodiak you could use # KREB1980AC.
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  • Threaded Grease Cap Needed with 1.98 inch Diameter
  • If you are talking about a grease cap that is compatible with a 1.98 inch hub bore then we an option for you. The only threaded caps that we have are the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980T-SS which are stainless steel and come in a pair. I have attached a review video for you to check out as well.
    view full answer...


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Info for this part was:

Written by:
Tyler C
Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Jeff D
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
John H
Expert Research:
Adam R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Hannah L

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