Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1968 - Chrome Plated (Pair)

Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1968 - Chrome Plated (Pair)

Item # BB1968

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1968 - Chrome Plated (Pair) 1.968 Inch BB1968
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  • Caps
  • Bearing Protector Grease Cap
  • 1.968 Inch
  • Bearing Buddy
Provide your trailer wheel bearings with premium protection - replace your existing grease caps with Bearing Buddies. They install in seconds and provide an easy, safe way to monitor and control the level of grease in your axle hub. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Bearing Buddy. Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1968 - Chrome Plated (Pair) part number BB1968 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


  • All Info
  • Reviews (13)
  • Q & A (14)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BB1968

Provide your trailer wheel bearings with premium protection - replace your existing grease caps with Bearing Buddies. They install in seconds and provide an easy, safe way to monitor and control the level of grease in your axle hub.


Features:

  • Replaces the grease cap in the axle hub
  • Prevents wheel-bearing failure
    • Keeps water and dirt out of hubs and bearings
    • Allows boat trailer wheels to be completely submerged
    • Stops corrosion and pitting on bearings
  • Provides easily accessible grease fitting
    • Makes adding grease to the bearings quick and simple
  • Maintains slight, controlled pressure (3 psi) with spring-loaded piston, preventing water from entering hub
  • Prevents overfilling and rear seal damage with automatic pressure-relief feature
    • Grease seeps around piston edges and into barrel when full
  • Constructed of stainless steel internal parts and triple-chrome-plated steel barrel
    • Ensures longer-lasting fit than plastic or aluminum products
  • Includes rubber covers
  • Installs easily
  • Made in the USA


Specs:

  • Fits 1.968" hub bore
    • Works with outer bearing models M-12649 and 07100
    • Works with outer bearing cup (race) models M-12610 and 07196
  • Lifetime warranty


Bearing Buddy installed diagram

Bearing Buddy Operation

Replace your existing grease cap with a Bearing Buddy to ensure a safe, easy way to monitor and control the level of grease in your axle hub. To adjust the amount of grease in the hub, use a grease gun to add more through the appropriate fitting. Adding grease moves the Bearing Buddy spring-loaded piston outward 1/8".

The O-ring inside the barrel of the Bearing Buddy maintains a seal from the outside. The interior of the Bearing Buddy is pressurized, preventing water from entering the barrel and diluting the grease.

An automatic pressure-relief feature is built into the Bearing Buddy. When the device is full, grease will seep around the edges of the piston and into the barrel. This prevents overfilling that can damage the inner seal.

You can manually check the grease level in your Bearing Buddy by pressing on the edge of the piston. If you can rock or move the piston, the hub is properly filled.



42600 Bearing Buddy Model 1968 - Chrome Plated (Pair)





Video of Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1968 - Chrome Plated (Pair)


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1968 - Chrome Plated (Pair) - BB1968

Average Customer Rating:  5.0 out of 5 stars   (13 Customer Reviews)

Provide your trailer wheel bearings with premium protection - replace your existing grease caps with Bearing Buddies. They install in seconds and provide an easy, safe way to monitor and control the level of grease in your axle hub.

- BB1968
by:

Solid product 593389



- BB1968
by:

A great product at a fair price. Also arrived earlier than expected. Will use them again. 490695



- BB1968
by:

Bearing buddies what can I say great pr oduct!!! 421392



- BB1968
by:

Bearing buddies take much of the concern out of pulling my trailer. thanks 406334



- BB1968
by:

good product at a reasonable price. Shipped quickly. 402722



- BB1968
by:

I am so happy to get these Bearing buddies. It will save me so much money. I can grease the bearings easily, without hassle and without taking it in to pay someone to do it. 374543


Comments

The bearing buddies are excellent. I travel for a living and it is hard to take the tires off to do the bearings while living in an RV park. Now, I can just pull the plastic dust seal and do it in a matter of minutes. I will definitely use them again if I have another trailer that doesnt have access for lubing the bearings.

Mark N - 04/30/2018

37939

- BB1968
by:

Shipped earlier than expected. Quality name brand product with boot accessory for better price. Just received and installed in 10 minutes Great Value Strongly Recommend seller 5 stars ! 294337


Comments

Still keeping my hubs dry, I take my jet skis to the lake 2 to 3 times a month during summer Trailer stays in the water for up to 6 hrs each time No complaints ..just always keep the bearing preloaded with grease

GregL - 09/13/2017

28168

- BB1968
by:

Excellent name brand product - Bearing Buddies. Quick and efficient delivery and the price was very competitive! 269171



- BB1968
by:

Bearing buddies fit perfectly and arrived quite fast. I will do business with etrailer again. 258857



- BB1968
by:

Service at etrailer has been great. These Bearing Buddies are the best, and the pricing is great too. If you ever have a problem, the staff is always there to help you. 224620



- BB1968
by:

The price was low and the shipping cheap and fast. I'd definately use etrailer again. 208195



- BB1968
by:

Easy to order on line. Item shipped quickly and arrived prior to the expected date. Product exactly as ordered. Fits great and no more worrying about failed bearing do to improper lubrication. 145861



- BB1968
by:

bearing were as pictured. work fine and were competitively priced. Were shipped fast and delivered on time.. 25583


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Ask the Experts about this Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


  • Which Bearing Buddy Do I Need on My Utility Trailer
  • Since the 1.98 inch is just slightly too large then more than likely the 1.968 inch # BB1968 is going to be your fit. To find out for sure which Bearing Buddy you need you can check your bearings. If your outer bearing is M12649 or 07100 then you need the 1.968 inch. If you have outer bearing models L44643, L44649 or L44640 then you will need a 1.98 inch Bearing Buddy # BB1980A. Or if your outer bearing is model 09067 then you need the 1.938 inch # BB1938.
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors for Hubs with Bore of 1.986-Inches
  • It sounds like you are looking for a Bearing Buddy bearing protector with a grease zerk fitting for your hub that has a 1.986-inch inner diameter. We offer two choices for your pop-up, either chrome-plated Bearing Buddy # BB1968 or the stainless steel version # BB1968SS. Both kits include two Bearing Buddy protectors and two flexible covers. Take some care when initially filling the protectors with grease to avoid over-filling that could blow out your inner grease seal.
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Replacement Hubs and Bearing Buddies for Boat Trailer
  • Choosing replacement hubs for your trailer requires matching up the bearing set used, axle weight capacity and wheel bolt pattern so that everything fits together properly. Once you have these details handy you can use the link provided to see all replacement hubs. First at the top of the page choose idler hubs, hub/drums or hub/discs. Then use the filters on the page to choose your bolt pattern (we'll use 5-on-4-1/2 as an example), inner and outer bearings, axle capacity, etc. For...
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Protectors for a Trailer with a 1.950 Inch Hub Bore
  • The closest fit of any bearing protector we have to a 1.950 hub bore is going to be either # BB1968SS for stainless steel or # BB1968 for chrome plated. These are designed to fit a hub bore of 1.968 inches. Bearing protectors are often slightly larger than the hub bore for a tight fit. But 0.018 inches still might be too large to fit. Make sure that when you measure you are using dial or digital calipers for the most accurate measurement. It also might help if you can tell me the...
    view full answer...

  • What Size Bearing Buddy Is Needed For A Hub Bore Size Of 1.940 Inches On A 1951 Utility Trailer
  • I have a Bearing Buddy Bearing Protector, # BB1938, which fits a 1.938 inch hub bore. This would be the closet to your measurement of 1.940 inches and should work in your hub. The next closest size I would have is the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protector, # BB1968, it fits a 1.968 inch hub bore. The Bearing Buddy Bearing Protector, # BB2047, you have referenced fits a 2.047 hub bore, which would be too big for your trailer.
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Buddy Recommendation to Replace Dust Cap that Measures 1.964 inches
  • The closest Bearing Buddy we offer which would be a fit is the part # BB1968. This fits the outside diameter of the cap you mentioned as it measures 1.968 inches.
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Replacement 1.975-Inch Dust Cap for Heartland Trailer with 3500-lb Axles
  • For a standard grease cap close to your original's 1.975-inch diameter you can use part # F001610 which is 1.960-inches. If your hubs are not threaded, then for a Bearing Buddy protector you can use stainless steel part # BB1968SS or chrome-plated part # BB1968.
    view full answer...

  • Choosing Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors for Timeout Motorcycle Tent Trailer
  • Bearing Buddy bearing protectors are offered in many sizes to fit a wide range of hub bores. The linked page will show you all parts which you can sort based on the measurement you take of your hub bore. You want to choose the Bearing Buddy with an outer diameter that is closest to your hub bore measurement. Please refer to the linked photo for illustration of the needed measurement. You will need a precision digital or dial caliper to measure your hub bore to the nearest thousandth,...
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Buddy Recommendation for a Trailer Hub with 1.974 Bore
  • The closest bearing buddy we have would be the 1.980 part # BB1980A that it sounds like already tried. The next smallest size we have is the 1.968 part # BB1968 which unless you measured wrong would be too small. I am surprised you couldn't get the # BB1980A to fit. That should be close enough to make it work, it could be that you need to use a hammer and a board to lightly tap it into place.
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Replacement Hubs for Boat Trailer
  • Choosing replacement hubs for your trailer requires matching up the bearing set used, axle weight capacity and wheel bolt pattern so that everything fits together properly. Once you have these details handy you can use the link provided to see all replacement hubs. First at the top of the page choose idler hubs, hub/drums or hub/discs. Then use the filters on the page to choose your bolt pattern (we'll use 5-on-4-1/2 as an example), inner and outer bearings, axle capacity, etc. For...
    view full answer...

  • Threaded Bearing Buddy Recommendation for a 1.980 Diamter Hub Bore
  • The Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980T-SS that you referenced is the closest threaded bearing buddy we offer to yours that measures 1.85 inches in diameter. This bearing buddy is designed to work on hub bores that measure 1.98 inches. You might try measuring yours again and be sure to get an exact measurement with a dial or digital caliper.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Idler Hub Assemblies And Wheels For Boat Trailer
  • My thoughts are you have a really badly marred spindle, but that many flats is still crazy. You are most likely overloading your axle with the weights you gave. The cuts into your spindle are not good and could be from a bearing seized up that could cause issues for sure including a blown tire. If you want to swap out the hub, as long as your inner diameter on your bearings is 1 inch, the Trailer Idler Hub Assembly for 2,000-lb Axles - 4 on 4 # AKIHUB-440-2-1K will work very well....
    view full answer...

  • How to Determine the Right Size Bearing Buddy for a Ranger Utility Trailer
  • Instead of measuring the dust cap you have, measure the hub bore where the dust cap fits. You need the most accurate measurement possible so using dial or digital calipers is the way to go. Usually the dust cap or bearing protector outer diameter is slightly larger than the hub bore. this is so you have a very tight fit. It sounds like you might actually need a 1.98 inch, which is more common. But measuring the hub bore should tell us. In the event that the hub bore returns a similar...
    view full answer...

  • Will Tire and Wheel Combo AM30820 Fit a Trailer Hub that Uses Wheel Bolts Instead of Lug Nuts
  • What you have are wheel bolts and a hubcentric hub. This means that the wheels center on the hub using the center pilot hole. The pilot home then has to be exact, otherwise the wheel cannot be properly centered. The pilot hole on tire and wheel combo # AM30820 is 3.19 inches. Compare that to the pilot hole on the wheels you have to determine if this tire and wheel combo will fit. If it will then you can use it. There could be slight variations in the measurements for the Bearing...
    view full answer...





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