Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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Bearing Buddy

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Caps

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Bearing Protector Grease Cap

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2.240 Inch

Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 2240 - Chrome Plated (Pair)

Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 2240 - Chrome Plated (Pair)

Item # BB2240

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BB2240
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Provide your trailer wheel bearings with premium protection - replace your existing grease caps with Bearing Buddies. They install in seconds and provide an easy, safe way to monitor and control the level of grease in your axle hub. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Bearing Buddy. Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 2240 - Chrome Plated (Pair) part number BB2240 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (20)
  • Q & A (16)
  • Videos (2)
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  • Why etrailer?

Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BB2240

  • Caps
  • Bearing Protector Grease Cap
  • 2.240 Inch
  • Bearing Buddy

Provide your trailer wheel bearings with premium protection - replace your existing grease caps with Bearing Buddies. They install in seconds and provide an easy, safe way to monitor and control the level of grease in your axle hub.


Features:

  • Replaces the grease cap in the axle hub
  • Prevents wheel-bearing failure
    • Keeps water and dirt out of hubs and bearings
    • Allows boat trailer wheels to be completely submerged
    • Stops corrosion and pitting on bearings
  • Provides easily accessible grease fitting
    • Makes adding grease to the bearings quick and simple
  • Maintains slight, controlled pressure (3 psi) with spring-loaded piston, preventing water from entering hub
  • Prevents overfilling and rear seal damage with automatic pressure-relief feature
    • Grease seeps around piston edges and into barrel when full
  • Constructed of stainless steel internal parts and triple-chrome-plated steel barrel
    • Ensures longer-lasting fit than plastic or aluminum products
  • Includes rubber covers
  • Installs easily
  • Made in the USA


Specs:

  • Fits 2.240" hub bore
    • Works with 1700 series outer bearings
    • Works with outer bearing cup (race) model 1729
      • Commonly found on 5,200-lb Dexter axles
  • Lifetime warranty


Bearing Buddy installed diagram

Bearing Buddy Operation

Replace your existing grease cap with a Bearing Buddy to ensure a safe, easy way to monitor and control the level of grease in your axle hub. To adjust the amount of grease in the hub, use a grease gun to add more through the appropriate fitting. Adding grease moves the Bearing Buddy spring-loaded piston outward 1/8".

The O-ring inside the barrel of the Bearing Buddy maintains a seal from the outside. The interior of the Bearing Buddy is pressurized, preventing water from entering the barrel and diluting the grease.

An automatic pressure-relief feature is built into the Bearing Buddy. When the device is full, grease will seep around the edges of the piston and into the barrel. This prevents overfilling that can damage the inner seal.

You can manually check the grease level in your Bearing Buddy by pressing on the edge of the piston. If you can rock or move the piston, the hub is properly filled.



43400 Bearing Buddy Model 2240 - Chrome Plated (Pair)





Video of Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 2240 - Chrome Plated (Pair)


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 2240 - Chrome Plated (Pair) - BB2240

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (20 Customer Reviews)

Provide your trailer wheel bearings with premium protection - replace your existing grease caps with Bearing Buddies. They install in seconds and provide an easy, safe way to monitor and control the level of grease in your axle hub.

- BB2240
by:

Awesome customer service, very knowledgeable and cordial. Awesome Company, I order often and have never been dissatisfied! Thanks Staff 694301



- BB2240
by:

Perfect fit and fast shipping 690323



- BB2240
by:

Installed easily. 680485



- BB2240
by:

As described and at a great price. Delivery was as if they shot it from a missile right to my home. 656735



- BB2240
by:

Great Service and the only place I could find a cap for a 2.24 inch bore Hub 644471



- BB2240
by:

Looks to be great quality. Have yet to install. 592496



- BB2240
by:

Great product. Worked great till I lost one. Then the second one was stolen with a different sized one on the other side of the trailer. Wish there was some way of locking them to the hub. 561375



- BB2240
by:

Received product in a vary timely manner. Thank you! 519128



- BB2240
by:

work very good thanks 482629



- BB2240
by:

Performs as promised 430701



- BB2240
by:

Performs as promised 430700



- BB2240
by:

THE BEARING BUDDIES ARE STILL IN PLACE. NOT SURE WHEN I LOST THE PLASTIC/NYLON DUST COVERS I HAVE PLENTY OF PEOPLE BORROWING MY CAR TRAILER IN BETWEEN 426199



- BB2240
by:

I recently purchased a trailer equipped with axles with discontinued hubs, however my hubs were in excellent condition. It was missing a dust cover from one of the hubs which was rare oddball size. etrailer had bearing buddies which were a perfect fit. 405923



- BB2240
by:

My bearing buddys shipped imediately and arrived in 3 days. They installed perfectly and i look foward to many years if convenient bearing srrvice. Etrailer has privided great setvuce every time I have ordered parts 394083



- BB2240
by:

The bearing buddy works great for an axle that has a very difficult grease cap to find. Just make sure your cotter key is close as possible to the castle nut so that it doesn't rub the bearing buddy. 319256



- BB2240
by:

GREAT PRODUCT. WAS A VERY HARD TO FIND GREASE CAP AND THESE GUYS HAD IT TO MY DOOR IN THREE DAYS. WILL DO BUSINESS WITH AGAIN. ALSO OPEN LATE TO ANSWER ANY QUESTIONS. 319086



- BB2240
by:

Installed easy. Works great. Just hope they stay on with our bumpy and getting worse roads. 269948



- BB2240
by:

the product fit what i order for. 193704



- BB2240
by:

Product looks good I have not installed yet, but it appears to be in brand new condition 146726



- BB2240
by:

Everything looks great. Very pleased with the service at etrailer. 79487


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Ask the Experts about this Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • 2.24" Grease Cap Replacement
  • I have a solution for you but we do not have any standard grease caps with a 2.24" diameter like the # RG04-020 . I recommend going with the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB2240 which will not only protect your bearings but provide an easy, safe way to monitor and control the level of grease in your axle hub. These are especially helpful on boat trailers, since they seal out all water, dirt and debris and allow for complete submersion. I've attached a brief video review of the...
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Buddy for 2-3/8" Grease Cap
  • A measurement of 2-3/8" is equal to 2.375" and there are a number of bearing buddies that are close to that measurement. In order to determine the exact replacement you need, you'll have to use a digital caliper such as # PTW80157 and measure your hub bore for the exact measurement. Your other option would be to take a look at your outer bearing, as that will also tell you what you'd need. Bearing Buddy # BB2240 fits a 2.240" hub bore and works with 1700 series outer bearings. Bearing...
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors for a 2-1/4 Inch Pilot Hole
  • The correct tool to use for measuring the pilot hole opening of a trailer hub is a digital caliper like part # PTW80157 to the nearest thousandth. However, based on the 2-1/4" measurement you provided you will want to use the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors part # BB2240SS for stainless or part # BB2240 for chrome. The stainless will resist corrosion better than the chrome. I have attached a review video of both options for you.
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Buddy for Hub Bore of 2.25-Inches
  • For a hub that uses a 2.25-inch grease cap the Bearing Buddy to use will be either chrome set # BB2240 or stainless steel set # BB2240SS. It is best to use a caliper like # 301-17068 when measuring the hub bore as this gives the most accurate dimension. It is better not to measure the old grease cap since these can become distorted from the installation and removal processes.
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Buddy to Fit Ranger Tandem Trailer with Hub Bore Diameter 2.296 in
  • You are between sizes based on what you listed but most likely you need the # BB2328 that you referenced which is for a hub bore of 2.328 inches. The next size down is the part # BB2240 which is for a 2.240 inch diameter bore and is most likely what you tried that ended up falling out.
    view full answer...

  • Is There a Bearing Buddy that is Threaded Comparable to a 2240?
  • I contacted Bearing Buddy to see what threaded cap they recommend for your application to convert from oil bath to grease. They said that the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors, # BB2441SS, is most likely the application for your trailer based on the 2240 question. This Bearing Buddy threaded grease cap has 12 threads per inch, as does # BB2080T-SS, but there are other threads like the # BB1980T-SS which has 24 threads per inch.
    view full answer...

  • Need Bearing Buddy for 2-1/8 Inch Diameter Trailer Hub Bore
  • The closest Bearing Buddy we have to a 2-1/8 measurement is going to be a slightly larger set that measures 2.240 inches, # BB2240 or # BB2240SS. In order to determine the correct Bearing Buddy for your trailer, the best way is to get the inner and outer bearing numbers on the bearings and/or the number on the outer cup (race). The Bearing Buddy part numbers listed above fit 1700 series outer bearings with race model 1729.
    view full answer...

  • Availability of Bearing Buddy Between Size 1.98 inches and 2.33 inches
  • Like 2.047 inches? For that we have the # BB2047. Or for 2.24 inches we have the # BB2240. Your best option is to use a digital caliper like the part # PTW80157 to measure the bore of the hub to pick out the size that will fit it.
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Buddy Recommendation to Fit Trailer Hub that Has Bore of 2.25 Inches
  • The Bearing Buddy part # BB2240 that you referenced is going to be the model you would need. This has an outer diameter of 2.24 inches which is most likely what your hub actually has. These are tapered to though so that they will fit your hub either way.
    view full answer...

  • Will the 2.047 inch Bearing Buddy Fit a Bore Size of 2.012 inches
  • I believe that the bearing buddy that you hub bore diameter that you saw was the 2.240 inch size, part # BB2240, which will be too big to fit in your hub bore size of 2.012 inches. The next step up from the # BB1980A that you purchased (which fit hub bore size 1.980) will fit the hub bore size 2.047 inches and is part # BB2047. Since you want the fit to be as accurate as possible this size will be too big. I called Bearing Buddy and my contact confirmed this. Custom-built trailers can...
    view full answer...

  • Installing Bearing Buddy Bra # BB23B
  • As a first step, make sure you are using the correct Bearing Buddy Bra for your application. The # BB23B you mentioned is sized to fit Bearing Buddies that fit hub bores ranging from 2.240 inches to 2.562 inches, or model #s BB2328, BB2328SS, BB2441, BB2441SS, BB2717, BB2717SS, BB2562, BB2562SS, BB2240 and BB2240SS. Applying a very very small bit of grease (I am talking tiny) to the outside of the Bearing Buddy will allow the bra to slide on easier. While sliding the bra into place,...
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Buddy Recommendation that is the Next Size Smaller than the # BB2240
  • The next smaller size Bearing Buddy from the Bearing Buddy part # BB2240 that you referenced would be the Bearing Buddy # BB2080. I attached a link to a page that has all of the Bearing Buddies we offer.
    view full answer...

  • Will Bearing Buddies Prevent Water from Getting into Hub
  • Bearing Buddies like # BB2240 are waterproof. They are commonly used in boat applications so you would not have to worry about them allowing water past them into your hub. Based on the dimensions of your hub these are the correct fit. I attached a review video for this kit for more info for you to check out as well.
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Buddy Recommendation for a Trailer Hub Bore of 2-3/8 inches
  • Most likely the measure you took would have been 2.240 inches had you used a digital or dial caliper so the correct Bearing Buddy would be the part # BB2240. You might recheck the measurement you took to be certain that it is 2.240 inches.
    view full answer...

  • Package Contents of Bearing Buddy Model 2240 # BB2240
  • Yes, the # BB2240 will include the matching bra rubber covers in the kit for no extra cost.
    view full answer...

  • Grease Cover Recommendation for Trailer Hub Bore that is 2.25 inches
  • We have the Bearing Buddy part # BB2240 which will fit the hub bore of 2.25 inches that you said you have. You will want to verify that is the dimension you need with a digital caliper like part # PTW80157.
    view full answer...


Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?




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Info for this part was:

Written by:
Tyler C
Installed by:
Jeff D
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
Adam R
Video Edited:
Chris R

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