1. Trailer Ramp Springs
  2. TRC
  3. Dual Ramp Spring
  4. Self-Winding Spring
  5. 77 Inch Wide Doors
  6. 120 lb Capacity
Self-Winding Ramp Door Spring for 7' Wide Enclosed Trailer - Dual Spring - 120-lb Capacity

Self-Winding Ramp Door Spring for 7' Wide Enclosed Trailer - Dual Spring - 120-lb Capacity

Item # 362SW71
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Trailer Ramp Springs
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362SW71 - Steel TRC Trailer Ramp Springs
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Safe and easy to install, this ramp door spring eliminates the danger that comes with installing conventional torsion springs. Upgrade to this system that lets you easily lift your enclosed trailer door. Fits 52" to 77" wide trailer doors. Lowest Prices for the best trailer ramp springs from TRC. Self-Winding Ramp Door Spring for 7' Wide Enclosed Trailer - Dual Spring - 120-lb Capacity part number 362SW71 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-1624 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (2)
  • Q & A (3)
  • Videos (2)
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TRC Trailer Ramp Springs - 362SW71

  • Dual Ramp Spring
  • Self-Winding Spring
  • 77 Inch Wide Doors
  • TRC
  • 120 lb Capacity
  • 81 Inch Wide Spring
  • 3 Inch Tall Spring
  • Steel

Safe and easy to install, this ramp door spring eliminates the danger that comes with installing conventional torsion springs. Upgrade to this system that lets you easily lift your enclosed trailer door. Fits 52" to 77" wide trailer doors.


Features:

  • Ramp door spring lets you easily lift and lower the door on your enclosed trailer without risk of injury
    • Helps take on the weight of your trailer door so you don't have to
  • Dual springs eliminate the risk of the ramp door collapsing and causing damage or injury
    • If one cable falters, the other spring will prevent the trailer door from freefalling
  • Spring reduces wear and helps prevent damage to door hinges
  • System can be modified to fit your specific application
    • Slide the bracket and cable drum down and cut the shaft to a shorter length
  • Self-winding spring requires less torque during installation than conventional springs for safer, easier setup
  • Sturdy steel construction
  • Made in the USA


Specs:

  • Application: 52" to 77" wide trailer door
  • Dimensions: 81" wide x 3" tall x 5" deep
  • Spring capacity: 120 lbs


The Raynor Company Self-Winding Ramp Door Spring Installed

Conventional trailer ramp door springs can be very dangerous to install. For those who don't have experience winding torsion springs, it's recommended that you hire a professional to install them. However, that's not the case with this self-winding ramp door spring.


Conventional springs often require 30 or more quarter-turns with a winding bar to achieve the proper tension during installation. This can cause serious injury if not done correctly, as torsion springs that are wound too tightly can break and snap back with extreme force. Unlike a conventional ramp door spring, this self-winding door spring needs only 3 half-turns and can be rotated by hand, making it safe to install yourself.


Safe, Easy Installation

The Raynor Company Self-Winding Ramp Door Spring L-Bracket

Installation is straightforward. Bolt or weld the included L-shaped brackets above the ramp door frame on each side of the trailer. The notched bracket installs on the driver's side, while the bracket with the hole in the middle installs on the passenger's side.


The Raynor Company Self-Winding Ramp Door Spring Shaft

Lift the spring assembly and slide the ends of the shaft into the brackets. If the shaft is too long for your application, you can slide the cable drum down and cut the passenger's side of the shaft down to a shorter length.


The Raynor Company Self-Winding Ramp Door Spring C-Bracket

Secure the driver's-side end of the shaft with the included C-shaped bracket, which screws into the notched L-shaped bracket with the included flange nuts.


The Raynor Company Self-Winding Ramp Door Spring Cable

Next, mount the cable anchors to your trailer door (hardware sold separately). You can also use your existing cable anchors if you're simply replacing your ramp spring. Attach the cables to the anchors with the included bolt and cotter pin.


The Raynor Company Self-Winding Ramp Door Spring Cable Install

Slide each cable drum to the edge of the door, getting as close as you can without it rubbing against the bracket. Now you can start winding up your cable. Insert the end of the cable into the notch located at the edge of the spring and start winding the cable up, keeping it nice and taut as you go.


The Raynor Company Self-Winding Ramp Door Spring Rotation

Once the cable is completely wound, rotate the spring upward 3 half-turns. While holding the spring, use a wrench to tighten the bolts on the spring, securing it in place. Repeat this process with the spring on the other side, and you're ready to go.



TRCSW 71 TRC Enclosed Trailer Ramp Self-Winding Spring - Dual, 77" Wide - Qty 1





Video of Self-Winding Ramp Door Spring for 7' Wide Enclosed Trailer - Dual Spring - 120-lb Capacity

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for TRC Self-Winding Ramp Door Spring Installation

Hi there, trailer owners. Today, we're going to be taking a look at TRC's self-winding ramp door spring. There are three different sizes that we have available to match your trailer. So if you've got a six, seven or eight foot wide trailer, you can get it with a shaft length of 67 inches for your six footers. 77 inches for your seven footers. And 96 inches for your eight footers.

These are going to be adjustable on the shaft. The spring assemblies can slide on our shaft to adjust for the width and as much space we've got here, it's adjustable to that amount. One end of our shaft is just going to be around to this end here. You can just cut off the excess once you've got it set up. If your trailer is just a little bit too small, it doesn't fit, just trim it right off.

This end here is the side. You have to trim it from.We take a look at our other side. On our driver's side here, we've got a square crimped into the end of our shaft here. We can't cut this shaft, this shaft has to be in this position and that's what holds the shaft from twisting. So that way our drum here can spin around the shaft, but the shaft doesn't spin.If we go to the center of the shaft at the other end of our spring here, we have this bracket clamped directly onto the shaft.

You can see where I'd moved it from its original position to where it is now, adjusting it over. And this part is going to stay so the drum there can spin, but this part cannot. And that's going to bring tension up onto our spring as we lower it down. And it's going to naturally want to unwind itself back to where its resting position was to pull the door back up.And here you can see our door, it's fairly large. And I can tell you personally, it's pretty darn heavy because our old system wasn't working properly and it was very difficult to lift it up.

But now if you watch, when I open it up. Comes down with ease. I mean, you can lower it down with just a simple finger, but it's even got enough pressure to hold itself. So we're just going to give it a little bit to guide it down. And it really can't be much easier than that, right there.All the work is done by our springing cable assembly here. So I couldn't have put more than maybe a few pounds of pressure just to open. And when we go back to close it, I can do it with a simple, one finger close. And let's up the stakes smallest finger, no problem.We've got the eight foot spring installed on this trailer that offers a maximum of 150 pound assist for lowering your door down. You do want to make sure that you don't exceed that under the amount of pressure that you've got on it here. With the shorter ones, they're going to be 120 pounds maximum. That's both for the medium and the smaller size. Now these aren't the only Springs on the market that can lower a door down with these like that and lift it up with one finger. I've installed many of your old conventional styles that can do the same thing. The big difference that sets this one, apart from your conventional styles, is how easy this one is to install and set up and how much safer it is. With your conventional styles, you have to wind those springs up.We're going to head over to the center here. This is what our new style looks like. And we we're able to just wind this up by hand during our installation. You can't get much safer than not requiring any tools. I went ahead and just put about three half turns on it to preload it and then snug these back down and that was it.With your older styles, you have to get everything set up and then you have to preload it and you have to put quite a bit of pressure on it when you're, pre-loading it. The holes that you'll see here, it's very similar on the old styles they're typically in like a plus shape for your holes. And you have to put something in there and pry over and over, moving that from one hole to the next. And I've done it before and it's pretty tiresome. A lot of times when you're doing that, you have to stop and take a break and leave your thing in there and let it rest against the trailer while you catch your breath. And those can potentially be unsafe doing those because if your rods slip out that you're using to twist it with the whole assembly could spring apart and you don't want to get caught up in the mess that's going on.With the self winding design we only put in just by hand, just a couple of half turns of preload on it. And then when we lower the door down, it loads itself up. So that way, when you're ready to put it back up, the tension is already there and it just easily pulls it right back into position. And to further add to the safety factor of these self winding springs, they're a dual spring assembly. So we've got one on each side with dual cables. That's going to provide more assist than a single spring assembly would and it's also going to help make it even on each side. So it's a little smoother going up and down.Our spring is constructed of a spring steel and our cable is also braided steel, giving us nice high-quality durable components. While we mounted ours with hardware, you also have the option to just weld your brackets into place. So that way you don't have to purchase any additional hardware.Now, installing the spring is something you could easily do at home. It's significantly safer than your old conventional style. If you're feeling uncomfortable about working with the high tension on those old conventional styles, then I would highly recommend that you purchase this spring. As it's going to be much easier and safer.We'll begin our installation inside our trailer here by removing our old spring assembly. It's pretty loose, you can see here, this side's got a lot of slack in it and this side here is not too bad, but it does have some slack. Our cable here, you want to check it and see how much slack you do have on it. If it's pretty loose and you can easily turn it while your door's closed here, then we can go ahead and get these cables removed on each side. If it's so tight that you can't pull on it or move your spring here to release that tension, you may need to come here to the center and release the tension with your mechanism here. Now, since ours isn't under any tension, we're going to remove our cables from our door. Make sure you get your door latch so it can't open on you.We're going to repeat on the other side. When working with anything with the spring, you always want to be careful. Now that our cables are loose, our roller is separate from the door so we can take the whole roller assembly off now. You'll have brackets that attach to your roller assembly. And usually the best way to do it is to look towards the inside behind your spring, you likely have hardware to remove the entire bracket. You can also take out the bolts here to separate it, but if you can, it's easiest to just take the bracket off. Ours has a couple of nuts on it with a carriage bolt and we're using a 9/16" socket.And once you get the second one most of the way loose, we're just going to leave it right there. Where it's just barely holding it on there, just by a thread or two and that way it'll easily keep this side up. And then we're going to go repeat the same thing over on the other, side so that it will just be hanging by our loose bolt on each side.Now that we've got each side loose, we're ready to take the whole spring assembly down. It can be pretty heavy, so you may want to grab yourself an extra set of hands. We can now lift up on our spring assembly, remove the bolt that was holding it in. We're going to do the same thing over here on the other side. And now we can just set this old one aside.We'll now need to start assembling our brackets. The pre-assembly we're going to do, you will take your angled bracket here with the notch cutout in it. And that's going to slide over our bar here. And this is going to then go on the other side of it so we can bolt the two pieces together. And that's going to keep our bar from spinning, since it's going to be a square bar in a square slot. I have the L shape with the three holes facing out towards the end of our bar, the easier to access it, to mount it up to the trailer. And we're just going to use the included flange nuts to secure these together.Now we'll just slide our other bracket on. Making sure that our three holes are facing out. Now with an extra set of hands, we'll lift our spring into position because we are having to add these brackets to our trailer, it's not going to line up with our existing brackets. And with the extra set of hands to helping us hold it up, we can then mark out our brackets to drill so we can get it mounted to the trailer.Now that we've got our marks made, we can take our bar back down and we'll drill out our holes to match our hardware. Now that we've got our holes drilled out, we can start mounting up our brackets. The brackets come included with your kit, but the hardware to get them mounted does not come with the kits. So you will have to provide your own. You can get it at your local hardware store. We're going to be using 3/8" diameter bolts. And the length you're going to need is going to vary depending upon your trailer. We're using ones that are about an inch for ours, but again, that's going to change slightly.So we're just going to slide those through. We are putting washers on the bottom ones here. The top one, since we're going through that trim piece, we can't put a washer on it. So we're just going to slide our bolt straight through. We'll then do the same thing over on the other side.Now that we've got our bolts in place here, we can start mounting up our brackets. And you do have the option to weld them if you want, but we're going to be bolting it on there. And we want to make sure we're using our driver's side bracket. The driver's side one has the square cutout in it, and this is towards the top. So we're going to go ahead and just slide it onto those bolts that we slid through. Can be useful to have somebody on the other side to hold them. So we can then place a flat washer on it and follow it up with the nut. We're using nylon locking nuts for ours. But if you're using just regular nuts, then I would also recommend using a lock washer between your flat washer and your nut. We'll do the other bolt as well. And then we're going to mock up the other side, just like we did this side. The other side's going to have the round hole in the bracket.We can now go back and tighten up our hardware. And you're likely going to need someone on the other side to hold the bolt. You do have the option just to push the door open and reach it, but this is pretty heavy and we've got no assistance, so I highly recommend just keeping this shut.We can now put our spring assembly in. We're going to slide the round edge into the round hole on the passenger side first. Then we can bring the other side over and set it onto the square. We'll now hold that in place using the bracket, the smaller bracket. So you'll have to probably pull it back out a little bit just to slide that in. And then you can slide it back in and line up those studs with the holes in the bracket that we mounted to the trailer. And on the other side, we're going to secure it with the included flange nuts.We can now start attaching our cables. Now you got a couple of options, depending on your trailer. If you have pre-existing brackets here, you could reuse your pre-existing brackets. But also included with your kit, you are going to get new brackets that you can mount onto the door. And they're just like this here. There are some holes in it, so you can bolt it to the door. This one has two ears because instead of using a nut and a bolt like our previous one was attached. This one just uses a pin with a cotter pin, that's why we have to have two slots on it and that will just slide through. Now, we're not going to be using this, we're going to be using our old brackets because it's a much stronger welded on attachment. The wood on our trailer here is pretty old and we don't want this to just pull off through our wood. We want to make sure we're attached to something very solid.Now, if you are going to be using this to mount it to your door, you will need to provide your own hardware. So, we're just going to go ahead and reattach our cable. Now, what we're using here is just a bolt and a nylon locking nut. And I highly recommend using a nylon locking nut when attaching this, because the washer that our cable fasts on here is made of a carbonite type material, a plastic. So, we don't want to over-tighten that and a nylon locking nut is going to let us get good pressure on it. That's going to keep it from getting loose, but prevent us from crushing it.We still want this to be able to pivot on its assembly, so that's why we want to make sure we don't over-tighten it.We can now get our spring into the proper position. There's two bolts that hold it in place and we'll use a 7/16" socket wrench to loosen those up. And once you've got them loose, you can then slide the assembly back and forth as necessary. So we're going to line it up here with the edge of our door to try to get it as close as we can. We don't want our assembly to be rubbing against our bracket, so we're going to keep a little gap in there. And now we can start winding up our cable. We're going to slide the other end of our cable here through the opening, need to slide it over. And this is just going to hang down and we're just going to keep pressure on this and wind the cable up. You want to make sure you're staying in the grooves when you're winding it up and that you keep it nice and taught. So that way it's got a nice, good pattern. Going down the drum here.Now that we've got it all wound up, we're going to slide it again as far down as we possibly can. And then we need to tighten these back up, but before we do, we want to do three half turns with it rotating up. So. One, two. And we're going to go just a little bit beyond just so we can get to these bolts here.And then we're going to tighten them back down. We'll then repeat the same process over on our other spring to get that one installed.Now that we've got it tightened back down and adjusted, we're ready to try it out. And it lowered down nice and easy. And we went ahead and rolled it back up to make sure that it did wind up on the assembly properly. Everything looks pretty good here. If you need to make any adjustments, you want to keep in mind that you are under tension now. If your door's shut, you've greatly minimized the amount of tension. Just keep aware that you did put those three half turns on here. So it does have some tension on it.And that completes our look at TRC's self-winding ramp door spring..


Customer Reviews

Self-Winding Ramp Door Spring for 7' Wide Enclosed Trailer - Dual Spring - 120-lb Capacity - 362SW71

Average Customer Rating:  4.5 out of 5 stars   (2 Customer Reviews)

Safe and easy to install, this ramp door spring eliminates the danger that comes with installing conventional torsion springs. Upgrade to this system that lets you easily lift your enclosed trailer door. Fits 52" to 77" wide trailer doors.

- 362SW71
by:



- 362SW71
by:

All items arrived in a timely fashion in really good condition. Packaging was in excellent condition. Just what I was looking for. Thanks


2
2

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Info for this part was:

Employee Lindsey S
Edited by:
Lindsey S
Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee David F
Installed by:
David F
Employee Jameson C
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Employee Dustin K
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Mike S
Written by:
Mike S

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