1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. etrailer
  3. Bearings
  4. Standard Bearings
  5. 6000 lbs Axle
  6. 7000 lbs Axle
  7. 8000 lbs Axle
  8. 9000 lbs Axle
  9. 10000 lbs Axle
Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 25580

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 25580

Item # 25580
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Retail:$11.04
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Shipping Weight: 1.39 lbs
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps 25580 - 1.750 Inch I.D. - etrailer
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High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 25580 part number 25580 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 25580

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 6000 lbs Axle
  • 7000 lbs Axle
  • 8000 lbs Axle
  • 9000 lbs Axle
  • 10000 lbs Axle
  • 1.750 Inch I.D.
  • etrailer
  • Bearing 25580
  • Race 25520

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 1.750"
  • Matching race (sold separately): 25520
  • Application:
    • Inner bearing for #42 spindle
    • Inner bearing for 8,000-lb and 9,000-lb axles
    • Outer bearing for #99 spindle


25580 Replacement Bearing





Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 25580

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 25580 - 25580

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (102 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- 25580
by:

Fast shipping and parts was what I need ed 782610



- 25580
by:

Perfect fit and replacement 777434



- 25580
by:

Installed and working well. 776448



- 25580
by:

I ordered parts for a 1988 boat trailer. I want to say that all the parts ordered, the very timely delivery, and ESPECIALLY the customer service ( thank - you Amy !!! ) were Exceptional!! Will definitely do business with this company again.... 5 STARS !! 777480



- 25580
by:

The bearing just arrived as usual with etrailer service was fast and prices fair. I haven't installed these but have purchased this item before. I use them in a large trailer , heavily loaded and often pulled 16 hrs stopping only for fuel. I and my wife switch off. I service my own wheels and I change bearings if there is any visible change in them. These bearings last several years. I'm satisfied. 766554



- 25580
by:

Just starting my new business I knew I would have to do things myself to save money. Etrailer Made it simple with one phone call. Lori was knowledgeable and easy to talk to and I saved hundreds ordering from them. My local trailer sales and service was triple the price. Thanks etrailer. 737906



- 25580
by:

All parts arrived timely and fit well. System works fine and I am very satisfied. THANKS AGAIN 714452



- 25580
by:

Great service, was hoping for faster delivery, lug nuts I ordered won’t work they tell me but it’s all good thank you 707979



- 25580
by:

Bought new axel parts and brakes bigger wheels for my boat trailer. My existing axel was 20 years old and never was adequate for the weight it hauled causing wheel bearings to wear out and the chance of loosing a wheel. This was the most economical way to repair as a new trailer was so expensive. All the parts I needed were available and went together beautifully. Very happy with etrailer, this is not the first time I have ordered from them great option for any parts you need. 700485



- 25580
by:

This was an easy buying experience. The sales representative was extremely helpful and very patient. I am not the end user for the items I purchased so I can not speak to that but, the service was excellent! 700030



- 25580
by:

Perfect fit for the Dexter axle. 683445



- 25580
by:

Excellent service. Website easy to navigate to find specific part sizes. 681932



- 25580
by:

This place is awesome to order from correct parts first time. I ordered parts about noon and they were on my step the next day. 679221



- 25580
by:

Great product, exact match to the original bearing. 672956



- 25580
by:

Hi I got all my stuff and packaging was great. I ordered these parts for back up if I have issues on the road with my RV you seem to have everything I need and great product with great price. Thanks 671830



- 25580
by:

Made my life easier 665644



- 25580
by:

Bearings were received in a timely way, installed and have1500 miles on them with no problems. I use etrailer for all my trailer needs and have always gotten good product and good service. 652420



- 25580
by:

Good parts 604197



- 25580
by:

The right part 604192



- 25580
by:

The right bearings 604189



- 25580
by:

Good parts and the right part 603884



- 25580
by:

The right parts 604183



- 25580
by:

Fast, free shipping for a great price. Exact match for all parts 601852



- 25580
by:

Looks great will see how it preforms. 600196



- 25580
by:

Good bearing. Good price. 588279


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Replacement Bearings and Seal for Dexter 10k Trailer Hub
    The bearings you need are # 387A for the inner bearing, # 25580 for the outer bearing, and for the seal # 10-51 since we know you have a 10k Dexter axle. For brake assemblies you'd need the part # 23-450 for the left hand side and part # 23-451 for the right hand side. For a hub you'd need # 8-430-5UC3.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement 6-on-5-1/2 Idler Hub Kit to Replace Hub 82655
    You can use 6-on-5-1/2 idler hub assembly # AKIHUB-655-6-EZ-K for your application. This hub kit includes bearings 25580 and 15123 along with races and a grease seal.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Timken Trailer Bearings, Races, and Grease Seals
    I do have the correct replacement bearings for you but we do not carry Timken products. The parts we have that match the parts numbers you have provided are as follows: Inner Bearing: part # 25580 - I.D. 1.750" Outer Bearing: part # 2585 - I.D. 1.313" Inner Race: part # 25520 - O.D. 3.265" Outer Race: part # 2520 - O.D. 2.615" Grease Seals: part # RG06-070 - I.D. 2.250" O.D. 3.376" When replacing these bearings I recommend using the UltraLube Biobased LMX Red Grease - Industrial...
    view full answer...
  • Bearings and Seal Needed for Lippert 8K Axle
    From what I could find online it looks like the Lippert 8K axles use inner bearing # 25580, outer bearing # 02475, and a grease seal that has an inner diameter of 2.250". If you are using a Kodiak disc brake kit like part # K2HR712D for 7K axles then it would make sense that this wouldn't fit correctly as this kit comes with an outer bearing # 14125A which is about 0.040" larger as you have found. If you have bearings for the 8K axle but you are using 7K rotors then all you need to do...
    view full answer...
  • How To Find Replacement Hub Components For 2001 Trailer
    The best way to find the correct bearings, races, or seals for your trailer is to remove a wheel and hub and get the numbers off of the current components you have. If you are unable to fid the numbers on the bearings or seals or races, you can use a digital caliper to measure the areas on the spindle of your trailer. I have attached a drawing that shows where the numbers can typically be found on the components and where you would need to measure if you are unable to find the numbers....
    view full answer...
  • What Seals, Bearings are Needed for Titan Brake Kit # T4871400
    I called my contact at Titan and he said you will want the following parts: Inner bearing: # 25580 Inner diameter: 1-3/4" Outer bearing: # 15123 Inner diameter: 1-1/4" Grease seal: (1707200) # GS-2250DL Inner diameter: 2.250" Outer diameter: 3.376" I have linked to a helpful article on Replacing the Bearing, Races and Seals on a Trailer Hub for you to check out.
    view full answer...
  • Hub and Drum Assembly for AL-KO T-52 Axle
    Based on my research, your AL-KO T-52 Axle has # 42 spindles that use hub assemblies with a # 25580 inner bearing and # 15123 outer bearing. You will just want to determine the bolt pattern you are needing as well as the axle capacity, as this can vary between different models. I have attached an article that will help you determine the bolt pattern on your existing hubs. The etrailer.com Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # AKHD-655-6-K will work for 5,200 pound and 6,000 pound axles and...
    view full answer...
  • How to Measure Spindle and Hub to Select Replacment Oil Seal
    I linked our main page for trailer hub oil seals. You can select a new oil seal by taking precise measurements of both the spindle and hub bore. The spindle measurement will tell you the required inner diameter and the hub bore measurement will tell you the required outer diameter. You'll want to use a precision digital caliper to get your measurements to the nearest thousandth of an inch, like 1.234-inches as an example. Please refer to the linked photo diagram for point B which is where...
    view full answer...
  • Bearings and Races for 7,000 Pound Trailer Axle
    The most common bearings and seals for a 7,000 pound axle are # 25580 inner bearing, # 14125A outer bearing, # 25520 inner race and # 14276 outer race. The grease seal can vary, and will usually either be the # GS-2250DL, which has a 2.250 inch inner diameter and 3.376 outer diameter, or # GS2125DL with a 2.125 inch inner diameter and 3.376 inch outer diameter. We do also offer complete bearing kits for this axle. For the GS-2250DL grease seal, you can use the Kit # BK3-200. For the...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearing Kit for 2011 Keystone Copper Canyon Fifth Wheel Series M-273 FWRET
    Traveling with an extra set of wheel bearings (and bearing grease # L11380 and a packing tool # ALL647646) is not a bad idea at all, especially with a new-to-you trailer whose maintenance history may be unknown. Trailer makers don't maintain specs on smaller items like bearings used in their hubs so all you'll need to do is pull one hub and remove its bearings and seal to note their part numbers. We have both complete bearing kits that include popular bearings, races and seals, as well...
    view full answer...
  • Grease Seals for AL-KO T52 Axle with #42 Spindles and Bearings 25580 and 15123
    Your AL-KO T-52 axle has # 42 spindles that use hub assemblies with a # 25580 inner bearing and # 15123 outer bearing. The grease seal most often associated with this bearing set is part # GS-2250DL for 1 seal or # RG06-070 for a pair.
    view full answer...
  • What are the Correct Bearings and Races for Dexter 8-201 Electric Drum Brakes?
    The Dexter hub you referenced, 8-201, is a 5,200 lb hub, though a 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern does not come on 5,200 lb hubs. The correct bearings for the 5,200 lb hub are # 25580 and # LM67048, while the proper races are # 25520 and # LM67010. I have attached a link to a help article on wheel bearings that you may find useful. If you can provide the diameter of the brake assemblies and/or the axle capacity, I would be happy to make a specific recommendation for you.
    view full answer...
  • What Is the Difference Between 25580 Bearing and L68149 Bearing
    The # 25580 bearing and the # L68149 bearing that you referenced have different inner diameters. The # 25580 bearing has an inner diameter of 1.750 inches. This bearing's application is as an inner bearing for a #42 spindle or as an outer bearing for a #99 spindle. The # L68149 bearing has an inner diameter of 1.378 inches. The application for this bearing is as use as the inner bearing on a #84 spindle. I have attached photos showing these measurements for you.
    view full answer...
  • Measuring Spindle to Determine Correct Grease Seal for 1970 Airstream Safari
    We do not have a way to look up the exact bearings used in the hubs on your 1970 Airstream Safari but based on this single-axle trailer's weight of around 3800-lbs odds are it has either a 4400-lb axle or a 5200-lb axle. We do know the bearings used most often in axles of these capacities. The article I linked will illustrate. A 4400-lb axle usually uses inner bearing # L68149, outer bearing # LM67048 and seal # 58846. We offer these items individually. A 5200-lb axle typically uses...
    view full answer...
  • How to Pick Out Replacement Bearings for Trailer Made in 1990's
    While we don't have a way to look up what bearings you need I can help you determine the correct bearing numbers. To pick out bearings for a trailer hub you will need to remove one of the hubs so that you can remove the bearings and get the numbers off of them or inner diameters. Or, you can measure the spindle where the bearings ride so that we can pick you out the correct bearings that would fit the spindle. See attached picture. Let me know what you find and I'll see what you'd need....
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings for an AL KO 5,200 lb Axle
    The AL-KO 5,200 lb axle uses the inner bearing # 25580 and outer bearing part # 15123 and grease seal # RG06-090. For races you would want # 25520 and # 15245.
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Kit, Nev-R-Adjust Brakes, and Lug Nuts For an AxleTek Axle
    To get you the correct bearing kit for your AxleTek axle with an inner bearing number of # 25580, I will need the size (or part number) of the outer bearing and the size (or part number) of the grease seal. There are three different choices of outer bearings that will work, along with two different grease seals. Since you do not have the part number on the outer bearing, you will want to use dial calipers to measure the dimension on the spindle where the outer bearing sits once installed....
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  • Replacement Bearings for Triton LTWCI-TX Trailer
    We most likely do, however, we don't have a list of bearings for each trailer. You will need to pull one of your hubs and then remove the inner and outer bearing and look at the face of each one. There should be a number stamped into the face of the bearing. If you don't have numbers on the bearings, then you will need to measure the spindle of your trailer with a digital caliper like # PTW80157 for a precise measurement. I've attached and article and photo to assist.
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  • What is My Axle Weight Capacity With Inner Bearing # 25580 and Outer Bearing # LM67048
    It looks like your trailer's axle rating with an inner wheel bearing # 25580 and an outer bearing # LM67048 is 5,200 lbs. If you have 3 of these axles, then your capacity will be 15,600 lbs. You can measure your current equalizer so you can find the correct replacement. I have attached a picture that shows what aspects of your current equalizer needs to be measured. Once you have these measurements you will be able to review the link of all the suspension kits we carry to find the...
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  • Recommended Replacement Wheel Bearings On An Airstream Trailer
    Yes, the Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing, # 25580, is the replacement for the Airstream trailer bearing 4T-25580. It has an inner diameter of 1.750 inches and has the same outer diameter as well. If the (back)INNER bearing is the 4T-25580, then there are 3 different common outer bearing combinations. If you have a 6,000 lb axle, the outer bearing will be # 15123 and grease seal # RG06-070 will be needed as well. The bearing kit that includes these 3 parts is # BK3-100. If you...
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  • How Do You Determine If An Axle Is Rated For 6,000 or 7,000 lb Capacity?
    It can be very difficult to tell the difference between 6000 and 7000 lb axles because they both typically have a 3 inch diameter. Most of the components for your axle will cover both capacities, so the only way to tell is to look for markings on the axle itself or find a GVWR on your trailer and then divide based on the number of axles.
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  • Availability of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing 25580
    We have the exact bearing part # 25580 that you are looking for. The inner diameter is 1.75 inch like you said you'd need too.
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  • Determining Correct Replacement Bearings and Seals for 6,000 Pound Axles
    Since the current hubs on your trailer use the # 25580 inner bearing, there are a few possible options for the exact outer bearing replacement. Most likely, the outer bearing you need will be # 14125A, # 15123, or # LM67048. These all feature the same 1.250 inch inner diameter, meaning they will all fit the spindle on your trailer. However, they each will have a slightly different outer diameter, which is what needs to match up with your current hubs. Since you cannot read the number...
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  • Available Trailer Hubs That Use Inner Bearing 25580 and Outer Bearing LM67048
    Thank you for providing your trailer hub's bearing numbers. These are what is needed to select a replacement that will fit on your existing spindles. We actually have six different hubs that use your inner bearing # 25580 and outer bearing # LM67048. These include both idler type hubs like # 8-213-5UC1 and also hub/drums like # 8-201-5UC3-EZ. All displayed hubs that use these bearings are rated for either 5200-lb axles or 6000-lb axles. Most use the popular 6-on-5-1/2 wheel bolt pattern...
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  • Picking Out Bearings for 1971 Airstream Land Yacht
    I really wish there was a way to determine what bearings a trailer needed without actually pulling the wheel off and checking, but there isn't. The only two solutions I have for you would be to remove the hubs and get the numbers that are stamped on the bearing or for you to remove the hubs and use a digital or dial caliper to measure where the bearings and seal ride (see pic). With that info I can help you figure out what you need. I attached a link down below that shows all of the...
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  • Axle Capacity with Bearings 28580 and 25580 with Seal SKF23839
    The Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing # 25580 is traditionally the outer bearing for a #99 spindle with the inner bearing # 28580. For instance the Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly - 7,000-lb Axles - 8 on 6-1/2 # 99865UC3 is a fit for your axle and is intended for the 7,000 lb axle which is what I assume you have. Both the bearings and grease seal are a confirmed replacement.
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  • Correct Bearings and Seal for Al-Ko Axle 407725.9
    Thanks for providing your axle part number. I spoke with my contact at Dexter Axle, which acquired the Al-Ko company, to obtain your axle information. Your axle uses the following parts: Inner Bearing, # 25580 Outer Bearing, # 15123 Seal, # RG06-070 (pair)
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  • Does Race Need To Be Replaced If Installing New Bearings
    You can use the other components you remove from your hubs. After you have removed the hub components you will want to inspect all of the parts and replace if you find any discoloration or signs of wear or damage such as a nick. On the race you can inspect it and if you see any marks you are not sure about, run your fingernail over the mark and if it catches you should replace the race. The # 25520 is the race you would need for the # 25580 bearing.
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  • Do Hub Races Have to Be Replaced Each Time Bearings Are Changed
    You can check the condition of your hub's races by carefully removing all bearing grease with a rag to expose the actual surface of the races. When they are completely free of grease, etc., inspect them for any signs of scoring (very slight scratches, ridges or wear marks) and for discoloration. If the race surfaces are completely smooth and free of discoloration (most often caused by heat build up) then you can leave them in place and just replace and re-pack your bearings. If you...
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Info for this part was:

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Adam R
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