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  9. 9000 lbs Axle
Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 25580

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 25580

Item # 25580
Our Price: $23.31
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Shipping Weight: 0.77 lbs
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etrailer 1.750 Inch I.D. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 25580
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High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 25580 part number 25580 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (281)
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  • Videos (2)
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 25580

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 10000 lbs Axle
  • 6000 lbs Axle
  • 7000 lbs Axle
  • 8000 lbs Axle
  • 9000 lbs Axle
  • 1.750 Inch I.D.
  • Bearing 25580
  • etrailer
  • Race 25520

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 1.750"
  • Matching race (sold separately): 25520
  • Application:
    • Inner bearing for #42 spindle
    • Inner bearing for 8,000-lb and 9,000-lb axles
    • Outer bearing for #99 spindle


25580 Replacement Bearing





Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 25580

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 25580 - 25580

Average Customer Rating:  4.6 out of 5 stars   (281 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

by:

All parts arrived, quality OEM replacement parts.
Install went without any problems.
Had to order additional parts I forgot to order the first time. Those parts arrived quickly. I’m a customer for life now !



by:

Etrailer is the place to go to. Very knowledgeable with the right part.



by:

Everything fit properly and installation went smoothly. All needed parts were included, which was nice. The self-adjust worked well and break-in was quick.
I've only put about 1500 miles on the trailer since install, so I can't speak to longevity.
I'd buy them again though.



by:

Ibbought 4 inner bearings, 4 outer bearings, 4 seals and 4 cotter pins. These were loose in the box with everything else, luckily they didn't damage the loose seals as they rolled around.



by:

Package arrived when promised and product worked as it should



by:

Worked Great with the the HydraStar Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator for Disc Brakes - 1,600 psi just make sure you find out if you need the HydraStar Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator Adapter Module for Ford and Chevy Brake Controllers - HBA-CAM



by:

bought these bearings and seals approximately a year ago and installed them myself. I watched the instruction video etrailer has a just followed it. Everything went smoothly and we have put approximately 6,000 miles on them since the install. All is good.



by:

Installation was without issue and they are working like a champ!



by:

The bearing I received was rusted and was not packaged for shipment. It was thrown in a box with some seals and they all rattled around in there. The bearing was not wrapped to be protected from moisture or other damage.



by:

Used this bearing on a car hauler that had mobile home axles on it, fit perfect and good quality.

I bought it due to the fact the original caught fire, and was rendered useless. The people at Etrailer spoke with me on the phone and helped me to find the correct parts needed to get it back on the road.

I would buy again, and will continue to buy parts from etrailer as needed.

Peter D.

4/10/2019

We sold the trailer 3 months after this review, but everything was working correctly and I have not heard anything from The gentleman who bought it, so have reason to believe it is still working smoothly.



by:

Shipped 8 races and 8 bearings in a box with no packaging materials…. Box was busted and 6 of the 8 bearings had damage to the cages

Etrailer Expert

Jenny N.

11/10/2022

Thank you for reaching out. I will have our customer service team reach out to you.



by:

Nice bearing



by:

Came as planned



by:

All high-quality equipment can’t install until fall due to knee operation



by:

Bought new axel parts and brakes bigger wheels for my boat trailer. My existing axel was 20 years old and never was adequate for the weight it hauled causing wheel bearings to wear out and the chance of loosing a wheel. This was the most economical way to repair as a new trailer was so expensive. All the parts I needed were available and went together beautifully. Very happy with etrailer, this is not the first time I have ordered from them great option for any parts you need.



by:

Quick Communication and getting issues resolved quicker than we request



by:

Great quality, great prices. I converted an old gooseneck trailer from the open center mobile home-style hubs to modern 6k hubs on a budget. These fit the replacement hub/brake units that I had. Was able to get all the missing pieces I needed from etrailer.



by:

Great quality, great prices. I converted an old gooseneck trailer from the open center mobile home-style hubs to modern 6k hubs on a budget. These fit the replacement hub/brake units that I had. Was able to get all the missing pieces I needed from etrailer.



by:

Fantastic customer service



by:

Great service



by:

Great product and fast service. I will be back I have other trailers and I have told several or maybe even many people about you. Thank you so much These were mostly bearings and seals for a heavy trailer so I don't have any pictures. Take my word for it though with them



by:

Need to ship in better packaging. Boxes came in with holes. Parts were missing.
Replacement parts were sent out but the job is now delayed waiting on the parts.



by:

The bearing and race replacements I ordered for my trailer have held up well a year later with 7K + miles on them.

I felt fortunate however that they were not damaged despite how they were shipped from ETrailer. After all these are precision bearings and machined races.



by:

We bought a used 35 ft. 5th wheel this spring and wanted to replace all wheel bearings & seals as well as brakes to start R Ving with good maintenance. The wheel bearings & seals that I ordered from trailer.com arrived very quickly and exactly what I ordered. Preston-Customer Service was awesome and took his time looking up all the correct bearings and seals that I needed.
I would order from etrailer.com again and I will continue to ask for Preston to help me with my orders!



by:

All parts ordered to replace a complete brake system on a 25-year-old boat trailer fit perfectly. Ashly from etrailer was very knowledgeable regarding are needs. Thank you!


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  • Does Race Need To Be Replaced If Installing New Bearings
    You can use the other components you remove from your hubs. After you have removed the hub components you will want to inspect all of the parts and replace if you find any discoloration or signs of wear or damage such as a nick. On the race you can inspect it and if you see any marks you are not sure about, run your fingernail over the mark and if it catches you should replace the race. The # 25520 is the race you would need for the # 25580 bearing.
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  • Bearing Needed with 1.780" Inner Diameter
    We do have the bearing # 603049 which has an ID of 1.781" but it has as OD that is slightly larger than the # 25580 bearing so you wouldn't be able to use the same race. This bearing has an OD of 3.063". We don't currently carry a race for it though as it isn't a very common bearing so that would need to be sourced elsewhere.
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  • How to Find Bearings For 4,000 lb Dura-Flex Axle
    I can tell you how to find the correct bearings for a 4,000 lb Dura-Flex axle, but there isn't any info available on what specific bearings that axles uses. So to find them, you will need to take apart your current hub assembly and look at the bearings themselves; wipe away the grease and you should be able to see the part number stamped directly on them. If you are unable to find them, you need to use a digital caliper and measure your spindle to the thousandths of an inch where the bearings...
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  • What is My Axle Weight Capacity With Inner Bearing # 25580 and Outer Bearing # LM67048
    It looks like your trailer's axle rating with an inner wheel bearing # 25580 and an outer bearing # LM67048 is 5,200 lbs. If you have 3 of these axles, then your capacity will be 15,600 lbs. You can measure your current equalizer so you can find the correct replacement. I have attached a picture that shows what aspects of your current equalizer needs to be measured. Once you have these measurements you will be able to review the link of all the suspension kits we carry to find the kit...
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  • How To Determine Replacement Trailer Wheel Bearings for 2008 Airstream Safari Sport Camper
    We would only be able to assist once the hub was removed and you could physically measure with a digital caliper like # PTW80157 or visually confirm the bearing number printed on the face of the inner and outer bearings as well as the seal. I've attached a photo to assist with the measurement locations if the bearing face doesn't have numbers that match with the linked page of bearings. We do not have the information on what wheel bearings your trailer has. You can contact the manufacturer...
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  • Differences Between 3" Dexter Axle D44, D52, and D60 Axles
    Yes, the different Dexter Axle numbers correlate to various axle dimensions and setups. You always want to match the specs from your new axle to that of your old axle to make sure everything matches, lines up, and is able to handle the amount of weight you'll have in your trailer. For example, the Dexter Trailer Axle Beam with E-Z Lube Spindles # 7461121 is rated for 6K lbs, has a hub face of 95" and a spring center of 80", and comes with spindles that use inner bearing # 25580 and outer...
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  • Potential Problems From Damaged Trailer Spindle
    Trailer spindle and bearing tolerances are pretty tight, usually down to a thousandth of an inch. Use of emery cloth on a spindle to remove scoring damage might remove enough material to affect the fit of the replacement bearing. You can be off the original dimension by perhaps 1/1000th of an inch but not much more than that. If you have a precision caliper that can read to 1/1000th of an inch you can check that repaired spindle's diameter where the bearings ride (and use another undamaged...
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  • Seal For Use On 12K Axle Hub When Converting To Grease From an Oil Bath Hub
    The Oil Seal # 10-56 is the only size seal we carry with the 3.125" ID and 4.50" OD dimensions. You are able to use an oil seal with grease as well so you will be able to use this seal when converting to grease.
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  • How to Find Replacement Bearings for a 1992 Airstream Excella Travel Trailer
    Bearings are specific to the spindles on the axle and the hubs. Going by capacity does not always get you the right parts though. I checked the manual for the 1992 Airstream Excella M-25 (the only 25 foot model for that year) and it does not list the bearing numbers or sizes. So to determine which bearings are needed you can pull off a hub and get the bearing numbers stamped into the sides of the bearings. You could also measure using calipers such as # PTW80157. I have included a picture...
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