Waterproof trailer light kit includes 2 combination tail lights and 2 clearance or side marker lights to serve 8 functions on trailers wider than 80". Universal mount with stainless steel hardware. 25' Harness with 4-pole connection.
Features:
Specs:
Note: Over 80" Federal Regulations require additional clearance lights (like MCL93RB or MCL84RB - sold separately). Also, if using with a tilting trailer you may need to route a separate ground wire from the clearance lights to a metal part of the trailer frame since tilting trailers sometimes use rubber isolators in the tilting mechanism.
The waterproof construction of this light makes it ideal for use on trailers that may be submerged, like a boat trailer. The circuit board is sealed, which means that water will not damage the diodes or circuit board.
If a trailer is 80" or wider at its widest point, then it requires rear clearance lights in addition to basic trailer lights. These clearance lights indicate the width of the trailer when it is viewed from the back.
To meet these requirements on a flatbed utility trailer where the bed extends past the wheels, you can install combination trailer lights that include the rear clearance function. For proper mounting, the lights must be installed at the widest points on the rear of the trailer - one on each corner.
A P2-rated light produces a 45-degree angle of light to either side of its centerline for a total of 90 degrees of coverage. This beam pattern can be seen straight on, but it cannot be seen clearly from the side. So this type of light can be used as either a side marker light or a clearance light, but it cannot function as both. If you need both functions, then you must install 2 separate lights on your trailer - one as a front or rear clearance light and one as a side marker light.
California residents: click here
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Speaker 1: Today we'll be having a look at and showing you how to install the Optronic Submersible Aero Pro LED trailer light kit. Part number TLL36RK.Now what's great about this kit is not always in the LED kit, but it comes with everything you need in order to wire up a trailer properly. With multiple LEDs inside of it. LEDs are great because they draw less power than standard incandescent lights and they last up to 50 times longer.This is also a waterproof submersible assembly. It makes it an ideal candidate to use on your boat trailers. On the side of our tail light assemblies, we have a side marker light, plus our reflex reflector.On the bottom of our driver side assembly, we have our license plate light to illuminate our license plate, which mounts on the provided license plate bracket.
This will help keep your trailer legal, so make sure that your license plate light is illuminated.Not only do these lights have our license plate lights on the driver side, our marker lights and our tail lights and running lights, but we also have our turn signals and brake lights on them.Now, in the front of our trailer, we have our clearance lights here. They have three built in LEDs to really help illuminate and let others know where our trailer's at behind our vehicle. These clearance lights have a nice amber color. They also have a built-in reflector and we have a nice chrome base to help give our trailer a nice finished look. These clearance lights, just like our back lights are submersible and waterproof.Now, for a few measurements to see if these will work for your trailer.
We're looking at about 7-7/8 of an inch and width on our light assemblies, we're looking at about 3-1/4 inches tall and about 2-3/4 of an inch deep.Now, on our clearance light assemblies with the chrome housing, we're measuring about 2-7/8 of an inch wide. We're about an 1-3/8 inch tall. With the gasket, we're measuring about 1-1/8 inch of depth.Now that we've gone over some features of our lights, we'll show you how to get them installed. To begin our install, we'll start at the front of our trailer. Make sure that we can route our wires to the back, making sure we have enough slack for our four pole connector in the front.Now, when we route our wiring, we have two sets of wires.
We have a green and a brown and this is for our passenger side and a yellow and a brown and that's for our driver side. Now, when you route these, you want to make sure you route them in a way that they're not going to interfere with any moving parts in the suspension and they're not going to get snagged on the ground on anything. We just routed ours to the existing wiring channels on our trailer.Now the white wire that comes off of our four pole connector, we need to attach this directly to our trailers frame. This serves as our ground. I'm going to make a pilot hole in the frame of our trailer with a small drill bit.Now, we'll take our white wire, strip off a little of the insulation, place on a ring terminal, crimp that down.Now, we'll secure our ring terminal where we drilled our pilot hole with a self tapping screw.
Okay, now that it's secure, we have a proper ground.Here we are at the back of our trailer. Now our trailer at one point in time had round lights in it. Not a big deal. We'll use the plate that the lights are mounted to, to secure our new lights.I went ahead and marked out two locations that are four inches apart from each other and even with the top of our trailer flan assembly here. We'll drill two pilot holes and enlarge them to secure our light assemblies.Where the pilot holes are made, we'll now enlarge them to a quarter inch in diameter.Now we'll take our driver side light. It's the one with the yellow wire coming out of it and a clear spot on the bottom. We'll take two of our carriage bolts and we'll slide those into the slots that are in the outermost location. Now most applications you'll pick one of the outer ones and the center one and you won't use one of the other outer ones, and your holes will be drilled two inches apart versus our four inches, but for our situation, since we're going over a round hole, we need to use the four inches so we have the most room.Now I'll take our light assembly, guide the wires through our round hole and then go through the two holes that we drilled. Now this is our license plate frame bracket here. Most applications you would go through the outer hole and then the bolt that we're not using in the middle to secure it in place, but because the way our trailer's designed we won't be able to use that in this particular application. We'll deal with this later. Place the lock washer on our bolt, followed by one of our nuts. Do the same for the other bolt.Now we'll take a 10 millimeter socket and we'll snug down our nuts. We don't need to go overly tight because if we go too tight, we'll just crack our plastic assembly.We'll go ahead and repeat our same process on the passenger side to mount our light assemblies. Now we can start making our wire connections. Here's our wire that we ran back from the front and the wires from our light. We're going to measure off how much of each we're going to need and cut off the excess. Separate our brown and yellow wire that we brought back and strip back the insulation from each end of our wires. We use some blue, 14 to 16 inch gauge heat shrink butt connectors that we have available on our website. The reason we're using these over the wire nuts that come with our kit is because these will provide a more weather tight seal so you don't have to worry about the elements causing corrosion, which could cause a short.Now we'll just match our wire colors up. Our yellow wire will go to our yellow wire. This is for our left turn signal and left brake light.This is our ground wire. We need to attach this ring terminal directly to our frame on the trailer. Now what I'm going to do to give us the cleanest and most professional install is measure off how much we're going to need to attach to this stud here. Cut off the excess. Strip back some insulation. Take a 14 to 16 gauge ring terminal, which we have available on our website. Stick on the wire and crimp it into place.I'll remove our nut, stick it over the stud and place a lock washer in the nut and snug it back down.Now we use a heat gun, which we have available on our website to shrink down our butt connectors. You'll want to use a heat gun over a cigarette lighter because it's an indirect source of heat versus and open flame. It won't damage the connectors.All right, for our particular application for our license plate bracket, we secured it in place with a couple self--tapping screws and some fender washers. This gives us a nice solid mount and the light will be able to shine down onto it still, thus illuminating it and keeping us legal.Now we will go ahead and wire up our passenger side the same way we did the driver side. The only difference is since we're on the right side now versus the left, our turn signal and brake light wire is now a green wire versus a yellow.So for our clearance lights, we're locating those on the side of our trailer towards the front. We took our bracket that they mount to, set it over where we wanted it and made a couple pilot holes through here and here for our self-tapping screws. Then right above this spot right here, we drilled a larger hole in the frame so we have a spot for our wires to pass through so they won't short out.We'll take our gasket, sit it on the back of our bracket. Take our self-tapping screw, go through one of the holes, line it up with the hole that we drilled. Get it to start. Line up our second self-tapping screw and get it started.Now we'll take our clearance light, our wire lead. We'll push the wire lead into the top location of the clearance light, feed our wire through the large hole and snap it into place.Okay, this is some extra black 16 gauge wire. We have this available on our website as part number 16-1-1. It's sold by the foot. You may or may not need this depending on your application. We'll strip off one end. That wire. We'll strip off the power lead from our clearance light and we'll combine the two with a butt connector.Like we've done before on all of our butt connectors, we'll use a heat gun. Now the brown wire from our four pole flat wiring that we routed into the back earlier, we'll cut right in the middle, strip back the insulation from both ends. Measure off how much of the wire that we added to the clearance light we're going to need. Cut off the excess. Strip off some insulation from it. Tie that in with one end of the brown wire. Take a butt connector, crimp it. We'll place the other end of the brown wire inside the butt connector.Now we will go ahead and wire up our passenger side the same way that we did the drive side. Now that we have everything installed, we'll test it all out. If we're using a tow doctor trailer tester to make sure everything's working right. Start by testing out our tail lights. Our tail lights are working and so are our clearance lights.Do a left brake light now. That's working. Also, doubles as our left turn signal. We'll do our right brake light again, which doubles as a right turn signal and that's working, too.That completes our look at and showing you how to install the Optronic Submersible Aero Pro LED trailer light kit. Part number TLL36RK.
Average Customer Rating: 4.7 out of 5 stars (174 Customer Reviews)
Waterproof trailer light kit includes 2 combination tail lights and 2 clearance or side marker lights to serve 8 functions on trailers wider than 80". Universal mount with stainless steel hardware. 25' Harness with 4-pole connection.
Great product... easy install. 591274
Good kit, would be better if they included machine screws as an option for mounting the marker lights, sheet metal screws don't work well if you are mounting on 3/16" steel. 693801
I plan on replacing the lights on my 97 King boat trailer with the new ones I bought from etrailer. I especially appreciated the fast delivery, it helps a lot. 587869
The stop/turn rear lights seem to be great quality and sealed well. The marker lamps itself is a sealed unit, but separate from its chrome mounting plate, so I guess thats OK. I'll be using some black silicone to install the lights; after I pilot drill the screw holes I'll put a healthy amount of silicone on the back of the unit. This will get a little goo in the threads to help seal them and fill any voids between the housing and trailer frame it sits against to prevent a little pool of water from being stuck in there. The stainless hardware to mount the main lights is good, but the rest of the stews suck. I'm going to pick up some better stainless screws that are longer, my trailer frame is thick. The plastic wire connectors are crap, throw them out (the little blue ones that pierce the wire for the marker lights). How is that water proof? Get some heat shrink butt connectors and adhesive lined heat shrink tube is this is for a boat trailer installation like mine. 152245
After installing a wiring harness on my Honda Fit (which was fairly tricky!) I enlisted the help of my father and uncle to help me install this on a small ancient boat trailer for a newly built sailing dinghy. Installation was a breeze but we did have a hell of a time creating a good grounding contact with the trailer. On a newer trailer, this likely would have been easier. I would also recommend just wiring a full ground from the wiring harness at the car end and not messing with a metal-on-metal contact. I trailer and launch my boat in salt and fresh water and maintaining that ground connection throughout a season of regular use has proved challenging! The lights never come on at first but then bounce on after I go over a few bumps and stay on. The lighting kit has been great and I've had no problems whatsoever, just the standard issues of keeping the rust off the ground contacts and keeping the wiring in good shape as it's mounted on the outside of (round!) trailer supports. etc. The lights are bright and look nice and haven't filled with water or had any problems. You may need to invest in some larger/sturdier zip ties if you end up needing to run this on the outside of your trailer versus threading it through the frame. 585275
I purchased these lights to replace and upgrade the incandescent set that came on a 20’ boat trailer. I chose this set because I liked the way the taillight side markers protrude out rather than being flat. I felt that this would help with visibility at night. The only thing I’m not particularly fond of is the way the amber marker lights that came with the set are designed. The light itself I like. It uses a plug in wire design rather than a sealed wire that is already attached like the taillights. It’s more or less a matter of preference. I mounted these on the fenders facing forward to help see where the trailer is in dark and rainy weather. 528869
Charlie - 07/03/2019Well made product overall. I would have a few suggestions for the manufacture though. First the screws that came with it were not self tappers as described in the instructions. Luckily this was replacing old busted lights and no new holes needed to be drilled. Second the connections for the main wires to the wires on lights them selves should not be done with wire nuts. Luckily I had some heat shrink connectors . I launch my boat primarily is salt and brackish water and know hot gas saltwater can eat through most metals. Plus no submersible trailer should have connections with wire nuts. Third both sides should have clear back up lights on bottom of lights not just driver side I don't know about most people but I do use both mirrors backing up and most every one of my back downs take place well before daylight since this was for my duck hunting boat. 172747
These lights did exactly what they said they would do. They work, thank you. I bought the fenders also at one third the price of the manufactures cost. Had to drill my own holes but no big deal. 259416
Product arrived as ordered and on time. Pros: 1) Once installed, everything works and looks great. Cons: 1) Installation istructions included with the kit were a bit limited at times, especially if you had never done this sort of thing before (like me). For example the instructions to install the base-snap-on post-style amber marker lights were OK but not explicit in terms of pointing out that it's important to orient the light the right way before snapping it in place. Again, a reasonably bright person can figure it out, but a bit more guidance would have been helpful. 2) Kit does not include the three rear clearance LEDs to replace the ones on my trailer. It is clear that these are not in the kit and I'm not dinging etrailer.com for this. Just know that if you want to replace these, you are on your own to find them. For me it was a bit of a challenge since I wanted LED versions that fit where the old ones went without drilling new holes. I needed ones with mounting 'ears' with holes 2 3/4 inches on center. I found what I needed at a local retailer. To the credit of etrailers.com, this website is great in that specs like mounting hole spacing is usually right there for you. In searching online for the clearance lights I wanted many sites don't put that sort of info up for you. Bravo to etrailers! Don't let the 'cons' I listed dissuade you. This seems to be a good product (I haven't put the trailer in the water yet...), installation was pretty easy, and etrailers.com has good online info to help in most cases. 83065
Steve W - 06/04/2014These fit my 1998 Ranger r91 sport boat trailer perfectly and a re a great upgrade. The screws needed to be pushed all the way to the very top of the channels and the lights look like they are a factory fit. Easy to install and a great product! 122124
There seems to be some confusion (myself included) about the spacing of the mounting channels on the rear of the tail lights. So gather round and learn from my mistakes: ALL of the spacing between channels is 2". The difference is the distances from the channel to the side of the lamp assembly! Note the attached picture. The bottom lamp is for an over 80" trailer and the top is the one I mistakenly purchased. NOTE THE DIFFERENCES FROM THE SCREWS TO THE EDGES OF THE LAMP. BIG DIFFERENCE! Also note that the over 80 lamp (bottom) is shaped differently on the right side, while the top under 80 lamp has straight sides. Happy trailering! Keith 33502
Hi. I’m satisfied with the trailer tires but I wasted a lot of time and trouble getting the bead seated because they were so narrow, I guess due the packing and storage process. I went from referral to referral hearing the same line, “maybe they can do it”. On my fifth service shop, a place that sells and services tractor trailer semi tire, they were finally able to do it. On top of that, I had to pay a little over $20 per tire to get them beaded. I could have bought the tires already mounted on new wheels from you for the price I paid for the tires and mounting. I meant to mention this to you last year, maybe you should mention this potential problem so that other customers might avoid running all other the place trying to find someone to mount them. Thanks for your concern. 498916
Being a new boat owner I was quickly overwhelmed by what I didn't know. Re-wiring, re-lighting my trailer was my first project. etrailer has a wide range of products, but most important to me, was their added product information and instructional information which helped me make the right selections to get this done. Add to that is their very competitive prices. etrailer will be my go to source for my future trailer needs. 313881
I recently decided to replace my existing lights with LED's on an enclosed 5 x10 ATV/Motorcycle trailer. This kit worked great for the job. Install was simple for the most part, but may require some small modifications based on existing wire and lighting locations. Lights are very bright and make trailering a breeze. The only reason I gave it 4 stars was that it was short several pieces of the install hardware and I chose to improvise rather than contact Etrailer customer service and wait for replacements. Certainly recommend and will be a returning customer. 555752
The lights are very bright and visible and I am happy with the product as a whole. The directions are absolutely worthless. If you have installed trailer lights before you will have no problems, if you haven't and are not "handy" with this sort of thing, you will struggle. I opted not to use a majority of the electrical connectors provided as i don't feel they are suitable for use on electrical systems that will be subjected to the elements. All in all I am happy with the kit, the true test will be the durability of the lights and I am hopeful they will be the last set I put on my trailer. 12097
Fantastic product! RANGER BOAT did not have a viable LED retrofit for my particular year trailer, nor did they have a suggestion. I measured my boat , and ordered these. I had to drill new holes, but was VERY easy to install these, and they look GREAT! No more burning out bulbs for this guy. I am a electrician, so the re-splicing of the wires wasn't an issue at all. I think that even if I was not, the directions are very easy to follow. I would recommend that you get some "HEAT SHRINK TUBE " to put over your connections. 357336
John D - 03/23/2018These lights worked perfectly and are quite bright. I had spent days trying to figure out why my turn signals would not work with my previous incandescent lights(on a new utility trailer. I even tried three different new incandescent trailer light sets and two new converters) when a tech at etrailer.com suggested I try an LED trailer light set. This set worked as soon as I hooked them up. Wish I had been smart enough to buy these LEDs in the first place. Would have saved me a great amount of frustration and expense. My guess is that my car's electrical system and/or the converter could not handle the extra current of the incandescent light sets. 128201
Exactly what I needed to get my trailer in tip top shape! Super fast shipping and great prices are always a bonus. Many Thanks E-Trailer!!!!! 736554
GREAT SERVICE NO ISSUES DELIVERED TO MY DOOR STEP ! 732463
I feel these were expensive for what they are. They are delicate. One arrived damaged (etrailer sent out a replacement) and they feel cheaply made. They come with the "knife splice" connectors which are garbage once they get wet. The yellow running lights need an extra hole drilled to make room for the wire BUT the hole has to be in the right spot because the wire has a stiff end that goes through the hole. My hole was about 1/16" and the wire touched the frame shorting it out and I did not realize at first. It does come with SS bolts for the lights and plenty of wiring. For less money I found stronger lights online after I ordered these. 729143
I launch my boat appx. twice a week.... tail lights haven't failed. all good 674390
Great lights. Wouldn’t pick anything di fferent 643269
Quality Product, Easy Mount, Larger than normal, but they are replacing my Vehicle's Brake & Running lights. When the Bikes are mounted on the rack, they cover the Vehicle's lights. The first photo without the Bike was taken after the lights were mounted.The second photo with the Bike on the rack was photoshoped, as part of the planning process to mount the lights. 639605
All good. Renovated 3 trailers last year and all working fine so far. Thanks for the follow up. 629462
Wow. What a difference LED’s make. Great product. No problem ‘s after a year of use. 623222
Do you have a question about this Trailer Light?
Info for this part was:
At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.
Thank you! Your comment has been submitted successfully. You should be able to view your question/comment here within a few days.
Error submitting comment. Please try again momentarily.