1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. Redline
  3. Seals
  4. Grease Seals - Double Lip
  5. 1.983 Inch O.D.
  6. 1.372 Inch I.D.
Grease Seal

Grease Seal

Item # 13194
lowest price pledge
Our Price: $8.13
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Orders above $50 qualify for Free Shipping
Shipping Weight: 0.04 lbs
Quantity: 
In Stock
Trailer Hub Grease Seal
zoom in icon
slider vertical icon
zoom out icon
Comment field cannot be left empty.
Name field cannot be left empty.

Thank you! Your comment has been submitted successfully. You should be able to view your question/comment here within a few days.

Error submitting comment. Please try again momentarily.

Product Images

Customer Photos

Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Redline. Grease Seal part number 13194 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
  • All Info
  • Reviews (87)
  • Q & A (21)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

Redline Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 13194

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 1.983 Inch O.D.
  • 1.372 Inch I.D.
  • Redline


I.D.
O.D.
Use With:
1.372 1.983 Unique BT Hubs

Seal Cross-Reference
Dexter #
Transcom #
National #
NOK #
Chicago Rawhide #
-
13194TB
-
AB1990EO
-





Video of Grease Seal

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Grease Seal - 13194

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (87 Customer Reviews)


- 13194
by:

Service is getting hard to find nowadays, but not with trailer.com. They were great in helping me with parts I needed and I’m well pleased with that. 678024



- 13194
by:

Perfect fit on my trailer I bought different seal in my locals autopart and don’t it fit, thanks to etrailer.com because is the only one have this particular grease seal fit in my boat trailer ?? and shipping was very fast 5 stars. 520680



- 13194
by:

Received parts yesterday and everything arrived in excellent condition. Without etrailer's helpful guides it would have taken a lot longer to identify the correct Hub's and bearing's that I needed for my jet ski trailer. I always go to etrailer for my trailer needs!!!! I have a jet ski trailer, boat trailer, and 36.5 foot 5th wheel camper. So I'm always needing parts!!! 682059



- 13194
by: 10/30/2020

It measures great and when the customer comes with it we will give it a try 906043



- 13194
by: 09/08/2020

product and service excellent 893819



- 13194
by: 08/29/2020

870765



- 13194
by:

Good item 869377



- 13194
by:

I wanted these specific seals and couldn't find them locally. E trailer had what I needed and shipped it at a reasonable price. They fit the hub and spindle properly and installed easily. 861747



- 13194
by:

Good and fast service. Will use you ag ain. 716945



- 13194
by:

Perfect fit! Easy order, and timely del ivery! 683945


Comments
They worked out great. Just ordered another pair!
MICHAEL R - 08/13/2020

97222

- 13194
by:

I should have contacted you folks in the very beginning of my search for these seals. My local auto parts were absolutely worthless and then I ordered some online and of course they were incorrect when I receive them. You on the other hand sent me the correct item the first time and the turnaround time was amazingly fast. Thank you 669123



- 13194
by:

Great product, perfect fit, good price 668742



- 13194
by:

Just what I needed! Works great 667220



- 13194
by:

Shopping experience was easy. Parts arrived faster than expected and were correct. Still working great!!! 657369



- 13194
by:

Hard to find part worked out great. 647985



- 13194
by:

Arrived on time fits my 1 3/8 dia seal diameter on shaft 617242



- 13194
by:

Great product, fit perfectly. 584608



- 13194
by:

Very good quality and seem to be working well. 580903


Comments
All has been great!
megcabra - 11/08/2019

63242

- 13194
by:

Perfect fit, quick delivery and good pr ice. 557742



- 13194
by:

Product worked perfectly for my 2000 Coleman Taos, dexter hubs. Fast shipping. 546189



- 13194
by:

These seals were identical to the factory original seals for our 1994 Coleman Destiny Royale. They installed with a nice interference fit. I was careful to use a 3/4" thick solid brass, 3" long section of a square brass rod, carefully rotating it to maintain a level orientation while tapping them into position until fully seated. I liberally lubed the seal and the machined surface they are fitted to before installation. 543574



- 13194
by:

The seals arrived in time for my trip and fit perfectly. I was not able to purchase this size locally. Apparently a 1.25" or 1.50" nominal ID is common and my 1.38 nominal ID (1.372" ID x 1.983" OD) on my 1986 EZ- Loader is an odd size. Thanks etrailer. 527804



- 13194
by:

Installed today, fit like a glove! Thanks for the fast shipping 501873



- 13194
by:

These are the exact grease seals called for by Fleetwood for my pop up camper. 500654



- 13194
by:

great delivery and price Thanks 497766


25
87
Show More Reviews

Ask the Experts about this Redline Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Replacement for AB1990E Grease Seal
    The AB1990E seal is the same as grease seal # 13194. You would not be able to replace simply on the type of hub you have, you would need to use a digital caliper to ensure it has the same measurements. The # 13194 seal has an inner diameter of 1.372" and outer diameter of 1.983 inches. If those are the same dimensions as your current seal then you would have the correct part. I've included a link to a video review of this product for you to take a look at.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Grease SEal for 2011 Zieman S-1 Trailer Hub
    If the existing grease seal on your trailer is in fact the NOK part # AB1990E that you referenced in your question, then I recommend using the Redline Grease Seal # 13194 as a replacement. This is a confirmed replacement for the NOK model and the difference in thickness you are noticing is simply due to the different manufacturers. This will not have an affect on the fit for the grease seal. The grease seals that are included in the Bearing Buddy Spindle Grease Seal Set # BB60005 are...
    view full answer...
  • Picking Out Grease Seal for 2000 Coleman Taos Pop Up
    To pick out a replacement grease seal you will need to measure the diameter of the spindle where the grease seal rides with a digital or dial caliper and then need to measure the hub bore where the current seal rides. With those two dimensions we can pick out the correct seal that you would need. I attached a link to a page that has all of the grease seals we carry. You will need to select your inner and outer diameter from the filters on the page and the correct seals will be listed.
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Grease Seal Recommendation to Replace Seal NOK AB1990E
    We can help you find the seal you need, but the part number you mentioned does not match anything we offer. Can you get me the inner and outer diameters of the seal? With that I can see what we have that matches.
    view full answer...
  • Will Grease Seal 13194 Fit with Dexter Axle 8-258 Hub
    Yes, the Grease Seal # 13194 will fit just fine with a Dexter Axle 8-258 like part # 8-258-5UC1. I would verify fitment of this seal with your spindle by using a digital caliper like part # 301-17068. What you'll want to do is measure the diameter of your spindle where the grease seal rides. The seal # 13194 mentioned above has a 1.372" ID.
    view full answer...
  • Does The Redline Grease Seal 13194 Have Markings Of TCM 13194 TM and a Spring On The Inside Lip
    I went out in the warehouse and pulled the Redline Grease Seal, part # 13194. It does have the markings on the inside of the seal that say TCM 13194 TM Taiwan and the number 11. It also has the spring around the inside lip. This seal will work for your boat trailer application.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Grease Seal Recommendation for a BT-150A Hub
    Yes, based on the dimensions you listed the grease seal part # 13194 is the correct grease seal. It has an inner diameter of 1.372 inches and an outer diameter of 1.983 inches.
    view full answer...
  • How to Determine Correct Replacement Grease Seal for 2003 Coleman Bayside Elite Pop-Up Camper
    Unfortunately, I don't have any reference material that would show me what grease seal your Coleman Bayside pop-up camper uses. From my research, it appears your camper uses a 3500 lb axle. If you can provide me more information, I can determine which grease seal you'll need. I'll need to know: Inner bearing reference number stamped on bearing cage Diameter of inner hub bore Diameter of spindle journal surface where grease seal rides The measurements need to be highly accurate,...
    view full answer...
  • How to Pick Out Grease Seal for 2003 Coleman Cheyenne with Electric Brakes
    To pick out a replacement grease seal you will need to measure the diameter of the spindle where the grease seal rides with a digital or dial caliper and then need to measure the hub bore where the current seal rides. With those two dimensions we can pick out the correct seal that you would need. I attached a link to a page that has all of the grease seals we carry. You will need to select your inner and outer diameter from the filters on the page and the correct seals will be listed. We...
    view full answer...
  • What is the Thickness of Trailer Grease Seal # 13194
    I went out to the warehouse and pulled grease seal # 13194 to take some measurements for you. Front to back the thickness is 0.43 inches (7/16). The thickness of the metal is 0.06 inches (just under 1/16). I have linked a video review and another video showing the measurements I took.
    view full answer...
  • Determining Correct Replacement Grease Seal
    In order to determine which grease seal is the correct replacement, you will want to use a digital caliper to take measurements. A precise measurement, to the nearest thousandth, is required to ensure that the new seal will fit. The best way to obtain the outer diameter for the seal is to measure the inner diameter of the hub bore. To get the correct inner diameter for the seal, measure the outer diameter of the surface of the spindle the seal rides on. I was not able to obtain any information...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Hub, Bearing, and Grease Seal Kit for a UFP H-1062-3 Axle
    To find the correct hub for your axle you typically need to find the part numbers for your bearings and grease seal, or the diameter of the different spots that they sit on your spindle. We actually have had a customer who sent this information in to us so I am able to help you find exactly what you are needing. According to the customer, your UFP H-1062-3 axle has a spindle that has # L44649 inner and outer bearings, and a grease seal that has a 1.979" OD and a 1.372" ID, like part...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Hub that Has Bearings L44649 and Bolt Pattern 5 on 4-1/2 inch
    The trailer hub part # 8-258-5UC1 that you referenced is an exact fit for the spindle you have on your trailer based on the bearing numbers you listed and the wheel bolt pattern. To jump up to a 3,500 lb axle would require more info from you. I'd need spring seat center to spring seat center plus hub face to hub face off your old axles. You have slipper springs which we can help with that as well. How long are the springs you have now?
    view full answer...
  • How To Add Electric Brakes to a 1995 Coleman Stony Creek Trailer
    In order to add electric drum brakes to your trailer you will need braking assemblies, hubs/drums, trailer wiring, and a breakaway kit. I was able to cross reference all of the parts in the photo you have attached and attached these for you below. Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Kit - part # 23-47-48 Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly - part # 8-257-5UC3-EZ (2) ***Replace Included Grease Seal with Redline Grease Seal part # 13194 Trailer Wiring 7-Way Upgrade Kit - part # e99011 Hopkins...
    view full answer...
  • Grease Seal Recommendation for Dimensions 1.375 ID and 1.983 OD
    The grease seal you need is the part # 13194 which has an inner diameter of 1.372 inch and an outer diameter of 1.983 inch.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearing Kit for 1988 EZ Loader Trailer with BT 150/151 Straight Spindle
    The correct replacement bearing kit for your 1988 EZ Loader trailer with the BT straight spindle is our part # BK1-150. This kit includes the inner/outer bearings to fit your 1-1/16" spindle shaft size, races, cotter pin and spindle washer. For the correct grease seal, you'll need to use # 13194, since the one included with the # BK1-150 kit is not the correct size.
    view full answer...
  • Bearings, Races, and Grease Seal Recommendation for a 1995 Coleman Stoney Pop Up
    We have the bearings and seal that you would need, but they are not available in a kit. For bearings you would want the # L44649, for races part # L44610, and then for a seal you would need part # 13194. I attached a help article on replacing bearings, races, and seals on a trailer hub for you to check out as well.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings, Races and Seal for 1993 Coleman Destiny Pop Up Camper
    I was able to locate the correct bearings, races and seal that correspond to the part numbers you provided in your question. For bearings you will need the part # L44649 and for races you will want # L44610. Then for the grease seal you will use part # 13194. You can also take a few quick measurements on the trailer spindle at various locations to verify that these are the correct replacement parts. I have attached an image that shows where these measurements should be taken. You...
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Components To Add Electric Brakes To 1997 Coleman Destiny Pop-Up Camper
    It looks like you have really been spending some time putting together the components you need to install electric brakes on your camper. The # AKHD-545-2-2K hub and drum will work on your camper but you will need to replace the 10-9 seals included with the kit with # 13194 seals. The brakes you mentioned, # AKEBRK-2 will work great with the hub and drum. Since you said you have a 4-bolt brake flange the # BRKH7 brake mounting hardware will also work for you. The breakaway...
    view full answer...
  • Availability of Wheel Bearing Kit for Coleman Destiny Rio Grande Popup Camper
    We do not have a bearing kit that contains all the parts you need, but we do have the individual parts. For a grease seal you will want # 13194 For bearings you will want # L44649 (2x) For matching race you will want # L44610 (2x) These parts are for one wheel. I am including a link to a video that will show how to remove and reinstall trailer bearings, races, and seals. Also, a link to a page that will list the different bearing kits and the part numbers they use.
    view full answer...
  • Hub/Drum and Seal Recommendation for a 1997 Coleman Fleetwood Bayport Camper
    The Trailer Hub and Drum part # 8-257-5UC3 would be the correct hub to use. You will need to order two of the Grease Seals part # 13194 to use on your spindle instead of the included # 10-9 seals. Other than that one small detail you would be good to go with these hubs as a replacement on your 1997 Coleman Fleetwood Bayport Camper.
    view full answer...

Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?




  • Why etrailer.com?

    At etrailer.com we guarantee:
  • Highest quality trailer bearings races seals caps for the best price.

    Our Lowest Price Pledge ensures you will never overpay for the parts you need.
  • Real product know-how.

    We make sure that the products we sell are what we say they are, and that they work the way they are supposed to work. Get real advice from a real person who has the knowledge and expertise needed to solve your problem.
  • Most detailed, accurate trailer bearings races seals cap information available.

    Because we take providing accurate product information seriously, we take our own detailed product photos, demo videos and installation videos, as well as verify measurements, instructions, and vehicle fit information.
  • Installations, made easy.

    We love helping people and have the most highly-trained customer service, hands-on experience, step by step videos and installation instructions.
  • Fast shipping.

    Your order is automatically routed to get out of our warehouse and to your door as quickly as possible. Receive free shipping on orders over $99.
  • Personalized service for life.

    We provide one-on-one, personalized service from the ordering process through the life of your product.
  • Trusted since 1946.

    We've been serving customers since our parts store first opened in 1946 and continue to be recognized by our customers, our vendors and third parties for exceptional service.
  • Returns Policy

    Need to return an item? No problem. Please read our Returns Policy for more information.

Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Mike L
Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Jeff D
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Video Edited:
Chris R

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.