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This stylish, aerodynamic Yakima roof rack gives you the space to carry gear on your vehicle. Rubber strips in the top channels push down to load carriers or accessories - no need to trim. Installs to flush rails on your vehicle's roof.
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Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Hi, I'm Matt at etrailer. Today we're gonna be talking about the Yakima roof rack on our 2023 Honda CR-V. This can be a great option if you're just trying to save space when you're on those longer vacations, and you wanna find a alternative space for storage. So let's check it out. So this kit today is gonna have some crossbars up top. We're gonna have a tower.
And we're gonna have this fit kit on the bottom. Now, with this crossbar, this is gonna be a 50-inch crossbar. That's gonna be the JetStream ones. And what's really nice about these is with this shape here, it's gonna be more aerodynamics, so it won't cost as much wind noise as some other types out there. And it's gonna have this built-in weather strip in the very top of it.
That's gonna prevent any debris from getting in there. And it's nice to have this T channel up top. If I take that off, you can get a better look at it. That's gonna allow you to put T-channel accessories here. That's nice, because if you have anything just, that has some really bulky clamps or you just don't like the look of that, instead you can put it up top to have a more clean look to it.
Moving on to the tower now, with this you're gonna have two end caps. You can have one here. And this one's gonna be locking. So you can actually get a metal lock core that's gonna use the same key system if you have any other Yakima gear on here. So that's pretty nice.
One key for everything. I'll take that off too. And now we can kind of see what's happening underneath here. So this is where your fit kit's gonna grab onto. There's gonna be a clamp on the front and back, and we're gonna have this rubber pad. And that's just grabbing on to your flush rails, and, in my opinion, it's doing a really good job today. 'Cause you want something that's gonna be as flush as possible. You don't wanna see any gaps, because, one, it just doesn't look as nice. But, two, sometimes if the gap is large enough, it can create some wind noise. And this one here is doing a great job. All right, so let's talk about a couple measurements. The first one I'm gonna get is gonna be the height it adds to our vehicle. So we are gonna be getting an additional three and a half inches to the top. So what I recommend doing is taking the measurement from your rails to your crossbar to anything that's sitting on top of it, let's say a roof box. Get that total measurement so you know you can make it under spots anywhere, like a garage. The other thing we wanna get is gonna be the space underneath that crossbar, and that's gonna be also about three and a half inches. That's good to know if you have any extra large clamps. In most cases, you're gonna be fine. Now, if you are using that sunroof, I would be more mindful of that, 'cause you're gonna have less space. In that case, you might wanna just stick to using the T channel on the very top. And then for the amount of overhang we have, that's gonna be also about three and a half inches of usable space. This is good, because if you have anything like ski carriers, you'll be able to put those here. Now, a kayak carrier, which is something you wanna have more close to the edge, that might be a little bit tight. It's just gonna depend on the thickness of that clamp that sits here. Putting 'em on is pretty easy actually. If you're curious to see that process, just stay tuned and we'll walk you through it. To begin the installation, I already got my front crossbar on there. It's gonna be the same process. Now, there are gonna be a couple of different measurements, but I'll go over that when the time comes. Now, the parts we're gonna get with our kit is we're gonna get our crossbar, we're gonna have two of those, and then you're gonna have your towers, we're gonna have four of those, along with the end caps. We're gonna have the interlocking ones as well. And then here on the other side, I'm gonna have my fit kit. So we're gonna have two different styles of clamps. One is gonna be for the inside, one for the outside. We'll go over that later. And then we're gonna have the base of that fit kit. You also have this included, a torquing tool, so you can make sure everything is tightened as where they should be. And a couple things I do recommend grabbing is gonna be some masking tape, just so you can block out where everything's gonna sit. Flathead screwdriver, so you can lock these into place, unless you have the metal locking ones with it. And then a tape measure so we can get our measurements. Start off by putting these towers on this crossbar. So something to note is, you'll notice my block here is pretty loose. That's what we want. If you need to loosen yours up, you can turn this around. There's gonna be a bolt right in here that we can loosen. And that's how you'll get that. Don't loosen it too much so it'll come out. If you do, you can actually just put it right back into place. So we're gonna flip over our crossbar and we're gonna reveal this open channel and we'll come to this end cap. I'll peel on the tab, pull it off, and then we can put these towers into place. I actually recommend putting them on from the same side. And to do that, the first one you put on is gonna sit in the opposite direction that it should. So this hardware is gonna be facing inwards to the crossbar. And this block is just gonna slide into that channel, just like that. Now, push that to the other side like that. Same thing for this one, only can face the opposite direction where all that hardware is facing out this way. And just make sure to put the end cap back on. (cap clicking) Again, make sure we put those towers in the right spots. Now, I will say we are gonna have a couple things on this crossbar. You're gonna notice right here we're gonna have this arrow. This arrow is pointing towards the center of our crossbar. And that's gonna help you get some measurements so it's even on either side. Something else that was gonna help that process is I pull this over some, you notice we do have a ruler that is built on here. If you use this a lot, it might kind of fade with time so you might need to get a measuring tape or a ruler separately. But most times this is still gonna be good enough to see. So from this point, we're gonna reference our M1 or M3 measurements, and that's gonna be in your instructions. And the M1 measurement, that's gonna refer to the distance between these two towers on your front crossbar. The M3 one is gonna refer to the distance between these towers on your rear crossbar. Then we can tighten it down. You're gonna have that bolt here I pointed out earlier. It'll loosen up that block. This time we're gonna tighten it down, and we're gonna keep tightening it down until we hear that click. Mine's fairly loose right now so I'm moving up quite a bit. (bolt clicks) There we go. You hear that click. You know you're good to go. Just repeat this on the other side. And now we can move over to the fit kit. Now, something I do wanna mention are the two clamps we have. Now, they are gonna have two different numbers on 'em. If you reference your instructions, they're gonna tell you exactly where they go. One's gonna be the inner. That's gonna be the one that sits on the inside. And the outer is gonna sit on the outside like this. I actually like to wait to put my outside one on and just put my inner one on, 'cause it makes putting on your roof a little bit easier. And to put this on, we're gonna have these two clips right here. Sometimes you might need to squeeze 'em to take 'em off. And once you're done with that, then we're gonna match this hole up around this hardware right here. I'm gonna push that into place. Might have to wiggle it some. Once you have it in there, sometimes I'll grab it and pull up on it to make sure it's tight. Then grab these clips, push 'em back in like that. It'll hold it in place for now. And then we can grab our base. This base is gonna have an opening here in the center, and that's gonna grab onto this bar right here. I like to make sure that these tabs are facing out, or you can follow the orientation of the arrow and make sure this is facing out. Match it up to that bar, press down, and repeat on the other side. We can put this on top of our roof now. And you don't have to be perfect about this when you first initially put it here. We're just kind of roughly seeing if everything's gonna fit well or not, and then we can make our adjustments. And before we check if this is in the right spot, I wanna make sure this is in the right orientation. So we wanna make sure this thick side is facing forward and the thin side behind us. Now, from here, we're gonna reference two measurements in your instructions. That first one is gonna be the M2 measurement. What that's gonna be is the distance from the top of the windshield to the very front of your front tower. The M4 measurement is gonna be the center of this crossbar to the center of your rear crossbar. And once you get that, just make sure it's even on either side. That's why I recommend having the measuring tape and some of the masking tape to help you mark this out. Now, I made my adjustments and I know everything's even. If you get to this point and you're realizing it's not sitting on the center of your rails, what you can do is take that masking tape again, mark this out, take this off your roof, and just adjust it either by pushing those towers in or outwards then so they do match that distance. Once you're done with that, then we can grab that clamp for the outer fit kit. And I already have this unclamped over here, so make sure you've done the same. I actually find it easier if you lift up on this a bit, push up underneath, so it kind of matches that hook there, then drop it back down. If it's not wanting to fit past this, what you can do is loosen this up some. That's gonna expand the entire clamp so it can fit around there just like that. Once it's around, just make sure you do that on the other side. We'll put these clips back into place. They'll kind of fall in these little holes. Here we have it. And just make sure this hook is falling underneath this lip here. Then we're gonna come back with our Allen key. We're gonna tighten this down a little bit. Sometimes I'll even pull on this and make sure it is falling underneath that lip. And we're just gonna tighten down a little bit until we find a little resistance. We're then gonna repeat that on the other side. The reason why I'm doing it like that is I don't want it to pull too much to one side, making it uneven. And if you do have an issue with one side not wanting the grab, what I'll do is loosen up the other side, kind of tap it from one side, and try to center it up a bit more, and then go to the other side and retry again. Once you get this kind of grabbing on either side, you tighten it down, just go back and forth until you hear that click. You hear that click, you know it's all the way tightened down, and then we can grab our locking cap. The way this works is you're gonna have an opening on one side. That's gonna grab onto this little tab here. So you put it on at an angle, push it into place, then you can grab a flathead, or if you have the metal ones already in here, lock it down, and then put the end cap on. From there, all you have to do is give it a good shake test, make sure it feels sturdy, that it's not gonna go anywhere. And if it feels good, then that pretty much complete our installation. Now, of course, if you guys have any other questions, let us know here at etrailer. And, again, I'm Matt, and thanks for watching.
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