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Grease Cap, 1.988" OD Drive In - Qty 2

Grease Cap, 1.988" OD Drive In - Qty 2

Item # RG04-020
Our Price: $8.45
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Shipping Weight: 0.17 lbs
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TruRyde Caps - RG04-020
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Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from TruRyde. Grease Cap, 1.988" OD Drive In - Qty 2 part number RG04-020 can be ordered online at or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - RG04-020

  • Caps
  • Standard Grease Cap
  • 1.98 Inch O.D.
  • TruRyde

Trailer Hub Grease Cap, 1.988" OD Drive In

  • Quantity: 2
  • Commonly used on 3,500 lbs. trailer axles

Video of Grease Cap, 1.988" OD Drive In - Qty 2

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

Grease Cap, 1.988" OD Drive In - Qty 2 - RG04-020

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (241 Customer Reviews)


Their just grease caps that cover your spindle nut, nothing special



It’s been great haven’t had any problems


Well made. It gives a finishing touch to wheel hub. It is better than the hammered cover from previous owner.


I was having a hard time finding this item and I am glad I looked on line.

Arthur M.


Very well, My trailer is used on a weekly basis and this item has keep my trailer in road ready condition


Both caps flew off my trailer on the freeway. Had to get something different.


Have them for about a year, no issues. Bought multiple for extras. True to size. I did need to lightly tap into place. I advise to buy a cheap micrometer to measure your original caps for proper sizing. Will buy again when needed.


Purchased to repair/replace Bolen's HT-20 tractor front wheel bearings.
Easily installed by driving into hub with scrap wood and hammer.
Affordable, relatively quick repair completed in between snow storms.
Thank you again eTrailer!



Worked great for my 1980 Bolens HT-20, thanks


Thought these were right for the 3500lbs. drop axle with the EZ lube hubs but they were just a hair too big, had to bend the flange in a bit and then beat the hell out of 'em but they work. My old dust covers from my old axle were not deep enough and the EZ lube grease zerks would hit the inside of the cap.


I'm very pleased. The item was shipped and received quickly, and the diameter of the dust caps' diameters measured exactly what they were nominally listed as (1.98"). They were also cheaper with etrailer than anyplace else, in my online search.

Steve M.


I ordered the wrong size. I just tried to install them, and found that the bore is substantially larger. I have a Haul Master trailer from Harbor Freight. Do you have the right grease caps?

Etrailer Expert

Rachael H.


Thanks for the response, unfortunately we can not cross reference the grease cap you would need based on trailer manufacturer. But to determine the correct size you would need to measure the inside diameter of the hub opening to determine which cap size is needed, preferably with a precise measuring device like dial calipers. You would want to choose a cap with an outside diameter that matches the inside diameter of the hub.


Used these on a homemade flatbed reusing an old camper axle from the 50's the numbers on the old bearings did not cross to anything current, fortunately E Trailer has the specs online a few measurements with a caliper and you are in business. Thanks E Trailer


I replaced all the bearings races seals and brakes on a small travel trailer. Bill etrailer took my order and three days later I had everything in my hands. Great job Bill ! All the parts were exact replacements and the install went very smooth. There is video help on their website to show how to make the install easier. I have been dealing with etrailer for several years and have never had a bad experience. I was completely blown away by the pre assembled brakes . Backing plate, shoes, actuators, self adjusters and wiring all ready to bolt on. How much easier can it be? With the best prices, fast shipping and great help on line etrailer is the way to go.


The parts I need at a fair price


I ordered new wheel bearing kit’s, extra cotter pin’s and hub end cap’s because one fell off going down the road. All the parts were right and came in good condition I just installed them part yesterday everything went really good and easy. Thank you for having all he parts I needed.


Too big. You can make them work, but by the time you do, they’re beat to death

Etrailer Expert

Brooke M.


It sounds like you were close in your measurements but needed a little more accuracy. I would recommend part # PTW80157 which is a digital caliper that will measure more precisely. You would want to use it to measure the hub bore where the grease cap goes. We offer part # TRAG-DC-196 which is one point nine five seven inches in diameter, slightly smaller and part # F001524 which measures to one point nine four three inches even smaller still.


Replaced the existing caps that had access to the grease fittings with a rubber grommet for a cover. I don't think greasing the bearings from the end of the axle is the way to go. I took some steel wool and roughed up the outside and painted them with black paint to match the hub.


First time buyer @ etrailer, web-site was easy to navigate and find what I needed at a very good price. Shipping was very quick. Parts installed without any problems... very nice fit.

Thanks, will be looking forward to our next shopping trip.


Not much I can say about a replacement bearing cap set. I lost one of my old caps on my last camping trip and decided it was a good time to pull apart the bearings and replace them. The new cabs have a nice machined metal look


Without the grease caps, the new bearings won't last long ... and you could even lose a wheel ( or a trailer with cargo !!). If you have a trailer and need parts of any kind, is THE place to go ..get it right and get it fast !


The grease caps were excellent. I installed them with an install tool on both of my boat trailers. I used an install tool for doing this, which made the job easier.


I replace the bearing, races, seals, and dust caps and all are working flawlessly.


The grease caps had a very snug fit on my trailer, so it took a lot of tapping to get them on, but that is a good thing. The old grease caps were apparently loose enough that one fell off. Great product, thank you!


Inexpensive, arrived fast and work well. Thank you etrailer !


Not much to say. Fits perfectly (using the dust cap driver tool: 151425 (290-991) Redline Dust Cap Driver Tool). I painted mine black once installed.


This was my first time ordering. This site was recommended by a friend. I loved the email updates of my confirmation, shipment, tracking and this follow up. My parts all have great fitment. The package arrived intact. Thank you Etrailer.


The caps were exactly what I hoped them to be,
the pictures with the items help me identify the part I need, thanks etrailer



Great! the lug bolts were perfect also


Exactly what I needed. Very good quality and perfect fit! Fast shipping of the parts and well packed!



As always anything that I have purchased from etrailer has always been the best quality and at the best price!

Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Trouble Removing Bearings From Older Trailer Hub
    In order to gain access and inspect the bearings on your trailer, you will first need to remove the hub itself. Older hubs like what you have that have accumulated a nice coat of rust can definitely be a bit harder to remove, likely requiring some tough love. To knock the dust cap out of place on your hub you will want to spin the hub around while you use a mallet or hammer to tap the cap in a few different places. Hopefully doing this a few times will let you remove the cap the rest...
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  • Looking for Bearing Grease Cap that is between OD 1.99 and 2.251
    We don't offer a grease cap with a diameter between 1.99 and 2.251 inches. The bearing reference number is stamped into the bearing cage, as shown in the photo I've provided. If I knew the bearing number, I can determine which race is used. The grease cap and the outer race will have the same outside diameter.
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  • How To Find the Correct Dust/Grease Cap for a Trailer Axle
    In order to find the correct grease cap for a trailer you will need to either measure the inner diameter of the hub bore on your trailer hub or the outer diameter of your grease cap but these are the only two ways. The measurements will need to be taken with a digital caliper which it sounds like you already have one. If you can provide me with either of the above two measurements then I would be glad to see if we have an option for you or you can browse our selection I have attached below. I...
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  • Grease Dust Caps Abnormal Size 2.11"
    That size grease cap is obsolete. You will need to look at replacing your hub assembly to go with a new cap. I recommend disassembling one of your hubs to check your spindle measurements. With those measurements and a condition inspection we will be able to determine if it best to replace your hub assembly. Or if the spindle dimensions are obsolete or damaged a new axle may be necessary. Please let me know what you find and I can help you with finding the new parts.
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  • How To Remove and Install Grease Caps and Bearing Protectors on Trailer Hubs
    Grease caps just pop out and in. The best way to get them out is to pry them with a flat head screw driver or tap them from side to side with a hammer. To install new ones, you simply gently hammer them in. Normally I use a short piece of 2x4, to help tap the grease cap or bearing protector into the end of the hub. I have added links to a couple of videos that demonstrate removing the grease caps.
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  • Are Trailer Axle Grease Caps Waterproof
    A grease cap like # RG04-020 is primarily intended to keep grease inside your hub bore and keep contaminants like dirt out. They are not totally water-proof by any means but they certainly do provide a degree of water-resistance. Mostly what keeps water out of your hubs is the full level of grease inside them. That is why folks like EZ-Lube spindles since they make it so much easier to ensure your hubs' grease level is always full.
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  • Looking for Grease Cap With OD Slightly Larger than 1.98 Inches
    The next largest size is # RG04-040 which has an OD of 1.99 inches. If you can provide me with the reference number from your outer wheel bearing, I'd be happy to check into the availability of a suitable grease cap.
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  • Recommended 2" Dust Caps for a 1994 Coleman Destiny Trailer
    From what I could find out about the part number 4714A0621, it looks like it is a 2 inch diameter standard grease cap. So with that being said, the TruRyde 1.988" OD Drive In Grease Cap # RG04-020 will be what I suggest. These will fit your hubs nice and securely.
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  • Dust Cap Recommendation For Trailer Hub With A Diameter Of 2.44 Inches
    The Grease Cap # RG04-080 has an outer diameter of 2.441 inches and will work for your trailer hub. I attached a review video link below.
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  • Need a Grease Cap / Hub Dust Cap to Fit Dexter 10 Inch Drums
    If you have a standard spindle you will use Grease Cap, # RG04-020, on your 10 inch drum. For an E-Z Lube spindle, Grease Cap, # RG04-040, would be used.
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  • Replacement Grease Cap for Harbor Freight Trailer
    Harbor freight trailers typically use metric bearings, which can make finding replacement bearings, grease seals and grease caps pretty challenging. You could very well find that you'd need to contact Harbor Freight directly. To see if anything we offer would work, use an accurate measuring tool like a digital caliper, and measure the inside diameter of the hub bore where the grease cap would insert. Click the link I've provided, and see if the diameter of any of our available grease caps...
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  • Correct Replacement Grease Caps for Malone Kayak Trailer
    I don't know exactly what the correct replacement grease caps are for your trailer but the highest capacity I'm aware of is 1,000 lbs in the Malone MegaSport which uses 2,000 lb axles therefore would need the Grease Cap, 1.988" OD Drive In part # RG04-020. If you are unsure of what you have, best option is to just measure the inner hub bore or the outer grease cap diameter and then choose from the list below if the above is not a match. Please note, you need a caliper to measure as they...
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  • Purpose of Grease Caps and How to Measure to Get Correct Size
    The purpose of the grease cap is to protect the bearing and the axle from any dirt getting into the bearing, which would then damage the bearing, hub and axle. So it is a good idea to have caps on your axle. To get the correct size cap you would need to measure the inside diameter of the cap mounting surface on your hub. Then that measurement would match up to the cap size outside diameter. The sizes of caps only vary by a small amount so the measurement has to very accurate. Some of the...
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  • Bearing Kit and Dust/Grease Caps for Coleman Mesa Camper with L68149 and L44649 Hub Bearings
    As far as bearing kits go # BK2-100 is the only one that has both the L44649 and L68149 bearings. The seal that is included is a 10-19 with an inner diameter of 1.719 inches and outer diameter of 2.565 inches. Based on my research this is the correct seal. Your hubs should have a center hole for the grease cap that is a little under 1.99 inches. Use calipers such as # PTW80157 to measure the hub bore to be certain. For a set for EZ Lube axles use # RG04-040. For a set of regular caps use...
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  • What Size Grease Seal And Dust Cap is Needed on a 3,500 Lbs. Axle With L44649 Outer Bearing
    The size seal you will need will depend on the part number of your inner bearing. If the outer bearing part number is L44649 and the inner bearing part number is also L44649, then you will use a TruRyde Seals, # RG06-020. If the outer bearing part number is L44649 and the inner bearing part number is L68149, then it will be TruRyde Seals, # RG06-050. The size grease cap you will need is 1.986 inches. For the standard spindle you would use the TruRyde Grease Caps, # RG04-020. If...
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  • Dust Cover for Trailer Hub with 1.98 inch Diameter
    We have standard dust cover/caps that fit the 1.98 inch hub bore you mentioned with the part # RG04-020 but we don't have any that is chrome. Chrome plating probably wouldn't work well as it may eventually flake off.
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  • Looking for 45mm Grease Cap
    The grease cap you'll need for your 1.77 inch hub bore is from Fulton, part # F001503. The outside diameter at the base is 1.78 inches which is perfect, as it's meant to fit tightly. I've linked you to a product description video featuring the Fulton grease cap.
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  • Grease Cap Recommendation for Hub Bore of 1.96 inch
    The part # RG04-020 might be barely too tight of a fit. Instead you would want the part # F001610 which is designed for fitting 1.96 bores on hubs like what you have. The overall height of this is 1.375 inches.
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  • 2.44 inch Diameter Dust Caps for Trailer Bearings on a Coromal Van
    We carry the TruRyde Grease Cap, # F001520, that should work for you, but you will need to make sure that the depth of the cap will work with the existing hubs on your Coromal Van. The depth of this cap is 1.03 inches, so as long as the spindle on your van does not protrude more than 1 inch beyond the face of the hub this grease cap will work for you.
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  • Will Fulton 1.96 Inch Grease Cap Fit Hub and Drum for a 3,500 Pound Trailer Axle
    I tested a Fulton Grease Cap # F001610 in a standard 3,500 pound axle hub and drum assembly out in our warehouse. The cap just drops right in and would fall back out immediately. You will definitely need the 1.98 inch caps # RG04-020. They are about 1/4 inch (0.26 inches) taller than the Fulton caps.
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  • Recommended Trailer Axle Bearing Dust Cap Compatible with 2.10 Inch Hub
    That is not a typical grease cap/dust cover size, however we do have the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB2080 which measure 2.08 inches. These caps actually make maintaining the bearings much easier and more convenient as well. I've attached a couple videos to assist. The precise measurement using a digital caliper that can measure to the nearest thousandth of an inch is best.
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  • Grease Cap for a Harbor Freight Trailer with 2.037 Inch - 2.042 Inch Hub Bore
    The hub bore diameter of 2.037" - 2.042" is a rather uncommon size but Harbor Freight Trailers generally do use some rather oddball parts in which replacements are hard to find. Although we do not have any standard grease caps that will work for you based on the dimension that you provided, I would be willing to bet the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors part # BB2047 will fit as it is for a 2.047" hub bore. It can be really hard to measure the inside of a hub accurately and the digital caliper...
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  • Comparing TruRyde and Fulton Grease Caps for Trailer Hubs with 1.988 Inch Bore
    There is basically no difference between dust cap set # RG04-020 and single cap # F001518 other than # F001518 is a single unit and # RG04-020. They otherwise have the same dimensions just from two different manufacturers.
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  • Wheel Bearing Cap 1.988 Diameter
    I recommend the TruRyde Grease Cap item # F001518. These grease caps are 1.988" Outer Diameter, have an overall height of 1.156" and a crown height of 0.94 inches. This is the largest crown height available in a 1.988 inch diameter.
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