I replaced a Hayes Syncronizer brake controller that I used with my 2007 Chevy Silverado truck with a POD PRO-Series brake controller ( bought from E-trailer ). I used the Hayes controller on (2) earlier travel trailers and my current travel trailer until the Hayes controller failed last year. The first POD controller failed immediately and was replaced by E-trailer. The replacement controller does not work properly. After adjusting the unit trailer to the trailer, the unit causes the trailer brakes to grab and cause a surging kind of a stop. Can you offer some solution or recommendation to fix this problem. Thank you.
From what I could find it looks like you have the Tekonsha PowerTrac # 39523 controller which is time-delayed. This means that it activates the brakes at a predetermined strength every time you hit your vehicle brakes. You probably have the brakes set at a higher setting and so when you hit your vehicle brakes your trailer brakes essentially lock up.
@JonG Hi, thank you for your input. I checked my original request for a replacement controller and determined that I failed to order the correct controller. I have re-ordered another controller and hopefully will have the desired results. Thank you.
@DonN Glad to hear it sounds like you've got it figured out!
Does the Curt Echo require TV brake actuation to actuate trailer brakes, or will it sometimes actuate trailer brakes based solely on change of momentum of the TV (i.e., if if you take your foot off the accelerator when going downhill)? Also, same question for the Prodigy RF? Thanks.
Since both of those bypass the trailer light functions they have been built to only activate the brakes when they are getting a brake signal for both the left and right side of the trailer. This helps to keep the brakes from being activated when you're turning but it does sometimes present an issue when you're using your hazard lights because it look like the brakes are being pressed intermittently to both controllers. The Echo has a setting you can change in the app so that the controller knows it's the hazard lights and won't activate, but the Prodigy RF does not have any way to distinguish when the hazard lights are on.
@JonG I understand the brake signal to the Echo comes from the brake light on the TV. My question is whether the Echo or Prodigy RF would ever initiate braking if there is no brake signal from the brake light to the brake controller. Does it require this signal from the brake light, or is it possible for braking to be initiated simply by detection in change in momentum because the speed of the TV is slowing or the TV makes a lane change?
@Hobie No, it is built to only apply the brakes when it see signal on those light circuits. The only time that you would see braking without pressing your brake pedal is if something is malfunctioning.
@JonG Thanks!
Thanks for the article. I have a 2013 Ford F150 XLT Supercrew with a tow package that has an electronic trailer brake connected to a 7 pin. I just acquired a light camping trailer (1600 pounds) that has an Autowbrake brake control mounted on the trailer. Do I still need the Autowbrake even though I already have a factory trailer brake controller on the F150? Thanks
The Autowbrake # 3430001 actually has a sleep mode that will automatically disable the controller anytime it detects that another brake controller is connected. So when you hook up your trailer to your F-150 the Autowbrake shouldn't be interfering with the OEM controller on your pickup.
I have a 5th wheel and will be towing a tandem axle trailer with brakes behind the 5th wheel. My 5th wheel weighs 3800 lbs dry and 4200 lbs loaded. The trailer I will be towing is 2700 lbs. Can I tap into the brakes on the 5th wheel for a 7 pin connector to the smaller trailers 7 pin and use the same controller/electrical wiring and which parts would you recommend if so?
As long as your existing brake controller is rated to handle 4 total axles (let me know what controller you're using if you're unsure) this will technically work. It's important to keep in mind though that the brakes on the second trailer will be delayed and likely won't be as strong as the first (the longer this circuit/wire travels the more it's going to lose power). For these types of applications it's honestly always best (if brakes are needed) to use a surge brakes on the second trailer that simply rely on deceleration.
@ChrisR Can I use Item # HM40975-11998 to tap into 5th wheel electric trailer brakes wiring for towing the 2nd trailer with electric brakes? My brake controller is 4 axles on the truck. Can you suggest an item for some extra wiring in case Item # HM40975-11998 does not have enough length to reach? Thank you for the great customer service, it's a breath of fresh air.
@NathanL The Hopkins # HM40975-11998 is a universal wiring application so it would work to pass along any electrical connections to a second trailer. You'll want to follow the wiring configuration diagram on the product page to make your connections. This uses 12 gauge wire for the trailer brakes but you'll really only need 10 Gauge Wire # 10-1-1 and Heat Shrink Butt Connectors # DW05745-10 for connecting your larger gauge wire.
I am not sure if I need additional brakes. I will be towing a 4500 lite 20 foot camper with a Chevy Sylverado 1500. What would you recommend, I plan to tow in mountains. Thanks !!!!!!!
I'm not quite sure what you mean by additional brakes? Do you have a brake controller already on your Silverado? If not, I highly recommend the Tekonsha Prodigy P3 # 90195 . If you can tell me what model year the Silverado is I can recommend a Plug-In harness for easy installation too.
I have a 2500 Chevy Silverado HD 4 wheel drive diesel that came with a brake controller it’s a 2013. Question : I’m going to pull a 5th wheel camper with a bumper pull horse trailer behind that. Can I get by with just the one controller ?? If not would the wireless echo controller inserted in the rear trailer plug with the horse trailer plug plugged into that provide the braking I need for this setup ??
Adding a functional brake setup to a second trailer is pretty difficult. Even if wiring it all the way up to the Silverado, the brakes will be delayed because of the length of wiring involved. I also don't think the Curt Echo will provide a reliable range for this distance. For this type of application it's usually best to go with surge brakes for the second trailer. If i'm being completely honest though I really wouldn't recommend triple towing with a horse trailer - typically this kind of setup involves a much smaller/lighter trailer behind the initial one. This isn't going to be fun to tow.
Great information! But how to properly adjust brake controllers? Should not I put too much power? Right?
The initial setup/adjustment is a bit of trial and error. The exact process will depend on the specific brake controller you choose, but for example with the Prodigy P2 # 90885 (one of our most popular proportional models) you'll set the power level to 6.0 and then just take the trailer for a slow test drive with the trailer (at around 25mph) using the manual override to stop the trailer - adjusting lower or higher as needed until you feel braking is sufficient.
Are proportional controllers output a varying analog voltage or a chopped pulse width PWM?
Proportional brake controllers will send back power in correspondence with your deceleration (a hard stop will sent back more voltage than tapping on the brakes in traffic). When you don't have a trailer connected most will also send back very small pulses of power, which is their way of checking for a trailer connection. If this doesn't answer your question just let me know!
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