Troubleshooting Brake Controller Installations

I have had a tekonsha P3 that I have used without problems for at least 4 years or more. Starting last week it no longer works. It shows the trailer connected and it show battery voltage and stop voltage when I push the brake but has zero output voltage and Amps. If I flip the switch on the controller it shows output voltage but no Amps and it does not stop the trailer. What would cause controller to not have any output?

Just hooked up P3 to 2007 Ram 1500. No power up. It’s wired to factory harness with quick connect. I did notice that the 3rd Brake bulb is possibly blown as I hit the brakes and no light, but the cargo light works. Would that affect it?

Installing a electric break up to a 2021 Freightliner it's getting all the signals but it won't put a signal out except my hand will not put a signal out when I press the brake

1996 suburban 2500 with the Tekonsho voyager controller. My question is my slide bar manual braking is not working. The pedal brake works fine. I have owned this controller for about 3 yr. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

We just bought a brand new camper. Towing it with a 2013 Yukon. We were about a mile from the RV dealer when the Prodigy p2 controller started showing oL and I would lose brakes. Sometimes it would show sh when stopped. Everything works perfectly when stopped. I hear the brakes engage and see no issues. At a slow speed it sometimes works fine. But as soon as I am moving more than a couple MPH, I get oL and no brakes. Occasionally, it might get up to .8 power for just a second before it drops to oL. I want to believe the problem is with my 8 year old truck and not my right off the line trailer, but I am at a loss. I bought a new controller (also a P2) which strangely worked fine for a test drive around town with the trailer, but now does the exact same thing as the other controller. I installed a new connector on the back of the truck and re-hardwired the controller under the dash and even ran a new brake wire from the controller to the truck connector. No change. The maddening thing is I cannot replicate the problem when stopped. The plug-in tester shows things are fine. I hook up to the RV and hear all the brakes engage. I even jacked up each wheel and spun them by hand and the brakes all engaged fine. It is only when I am hooked up and moving that I have the issue. The only thing that I am not sure might be a clue is the brake light on the plug-in tester flashes every 10 seconds or so. More like a flicker. Don't know if that is normal. I've seen the stuff online about problems with the wire running through the axle (which it does) and worn magnets, but this trailer was literally built on 8/19 and has only the miles it took to drive it from IN to NC. Before I take the trailer back to the dealer, is there anything else I should/can do to rule out the truck? Thanks.

I got a after market brake controller installed in my truck, it’s been working fine up till now but yesterday I noticed that my dexter trailer brake actuator never shut off. It’s keeps running continuously. Brakes just have a very slight drag to them. It’s an hydraulic brake system. Do you have any suggestions what it might be? Thanks

Everything was working just fine until one day I noticed that the brakes were not actually activating on my trailer. The controller indicated that everything was working fine. So I tried the manual lever on the controller and it appeared to be working, but the brakes were not applied. I don’t hear the magnet click when I use the manual lever or when I use the brake pedal. However,The numbers roll pass on the brake controller so it’s acting like it’s working. I checked all the fuses and the cabling. Everything looks fine. I’m thinking it’s the controller that is the problem. Any thoughts?

What does it mean when the read out on my brake controller just shows an r?

My brakes are wired to rear tail light but when I put my foot on the brake, the electric brakes work sometimes not all the time. Basically if I brake and they aren’t on, I wiggle the pedal and they turn on. How does wiggling my brake pedal side to side affect the on off status of the electric brakes? What needs replacing or fixing? Brake lights always work when I press brake. Have a holden Colorado 2013 and Hayman Reese electric brakes.

Hi, I have a 2012 Toyota Tundra. I have the C51362 plug to the truck side. I plugged in curt venturer 51110 controller to the harness. The green light flashes and truck brake lights come on as soon as I plug the controller in. The keys where not in the ignition. The 7 pin looks great, no signs of corrosion or damage. I am puzzled. I am unable to use the controller.

The brakes on the trailer work when jumped directly with a battery but not when hooked up to my truck. The plug in at the truck shows power and the light on my brake controller comes on when trailer is hooked up. I just re wired the brakes on the trailer from the tongue all the way back to all 4 brake assembly’s and I still have no brakes. Please help.

When I start my truck my breaks are not working as they shouldn’t. The first time I engage the breaks with the controller or the pedal all four breaks engage fine. When I release the breaks three breaks disengage but one stays engaged. I can hear the magnet humming and the wheel will not move. Not sure where the power could be coming from?

So the other day i hooked up my trailer and realized that the trailer brakes (set to the same number as always) were doing almost nothing. Now when i turn the controler way up it does start to do something. Would this be a problem with the brake controler or in the wiring

My brake control is showing 4.6VDC directly out of the control pigtail (same at the 7 pin) with no brakes applied and 12VDC with brakes applied. I've read i should have 0 voltage with no brakes applied. Could this be a faulty controller? I can't have it hooked up because it smokes the trailers brakes

Hi on the brake control. With a tester on the red and white wires. When I push on the brake pedal should I be reading 12 volts?because I am not. With trailer connected e brake works but doesn’t show that trailer is connected

Just installed promise iq 90160. Shows trailer connected. When I press brake pedal, does not engage or register on brake assist. No lights on trailer or truck light up. When I press the manual override calibration slide, brakes engage and lights work? Why won’t the pedal when pressed, engage trailer brakes or trigger brake lights but the slide when pressed does?

Just installed and Curt 51140 Triflex with pigtail and when I connected my 2019 Chevy Silverado to my 2019 travel trailer the one decimal didn't change to 2 decimal points as I read it should. I haven't towed the trailer to check to see if the brakes are working. Any ideas on the 1 decimal reading? Thanks.

I Just purchased a travel trailer, and the brakes seem to lock up for a second when slowing down, regardless of what the gain is set at. Only if it is at zero to i not get the jerk braking. also the display screen shows no output for braking and when i use the manual lever it says no trailer is connected.. any suggestions?

2016 Ford F150 Lariat (3.5 litre Eco Boost) towing a 2015 24 foot Cougar travel trailer that I've been towing with this truck for 5 years without issue: On a recent fishing/camping trip, I had been driving for around 5 hours and as I neared my destination, I decided to stop and fill my gas tank on the way there, rather than on the return trip. After filling up, I jumped in the truck, started it up and went to pull away from the pumps, but I was unable to move. I also got a message on my dashboard display saying "Trailer Wiring Fault". Thinking that perhaps my trailer had somehow become unplugged from the truck, I got out to take a look. Everything looked okay (including the break-away switch), so I unplugged the trailer to have a closer look at the plug and receptacle and I heard the trailer brakes release and the truck (running, but in park) settled forward slightly. I plugged the cord back into the receptacle and I could hear the trailer brakes engage again. Just to be sure, I tried again to move the vehicle, but the brakes were definitely engaged. So, I cleaned up the connections, checked fuses, pulled the pin on the break-away switch and plugged it back again, but the brakes remained engaged. Exasperated, but being very close to my destination, and only having to drive on a quiet country road, I decided to just unplug the trailer and drive to my camping spot. Throughout the week (before and after fishing) I attempted to sort the problem out. I visually inspected all the wiring on the trailer for the trailer brakes and checked all the connections, but everything looked good on the trailer end of things. On the truck though, I was still getting a "Trailer Wiring Fault" alarm on my dashboard display as soon as I put the truck into drive and started moving. I finally decided to take a day off fishing and went to a nearby Ford dealership and talked with them about the problem, describing everything that I had done to troubleshoot. They said that it could be a number of different things that are causing the problem, but recommended that I start by changing the 7 pin receptacle on the truck. So I bought a new 7 pin receptacle, installed it on the truck and nothing changed. Fast forward to today: I'm back home and I've had the truck into the dealership where I bought it and they've checked it over and say they can find nothing wrong. They're now asking me to bring my trailer in with the truck, but because I couldn't safely bring the trailer home from my trip, I decided to leave it at a nearby storage facility and drove home without it. Anyone out there have any other ideas about the source of this problem. Personally, I think it's the integrated trailer brake controller that has malfunctioned. I'm told that it's a $250 part - wondering if I should just have it replaced?

we have a 2021 chevy 3500. when i hook up our 5th wheel and test the brakes before leaving the driveway. they work fine. about 1/2 mile down the road . the brake controller shows no display and the brakes don't work. display on dash says connection good no faults. any ideas.

I've been troubleshooting a pulsing brake problem, my dual axle trailer has a distinct pulsing when braking around 50% or more and the frequency is not the same as the wheel rotation. Wiring is factory (12-14 gauge wiring) but there are some connections I can't get to to check, I've checked and the trailer draws a little over 12 amps while stationary at max gain and the resistance of each magnet is normal around 3 ohms. I tried brake isolation and found the pulse never really goes away, but increases as I hook more wheels up. I suspect this to be an amperage issue due to a faulty connection but wanted to get opinions on the matter. My ultimate plan is to rewire them all with 12 ga wire and eliminate the thru-axles wires. Thoughts? Thanks!

When manually pressing the brake controller switch I get full power to trailer brakes depending on how hard I press, but when using the foot pedal my controller is only showing 0 or 5, meaning I’m using mainly the truck brakes to stop the trailer. Any suggestions?

What if you have a functional brake controller that you’ve tested , and works, on other trailers, just installed new brake assemblies on both sides, adjust both assemblies properly, and can hear the brakes electronically activate when the brake pedal/manual override is being pressed, and yet there is still no braking happening on the trailer? Oh, and the brake controller settings have been set all the way up and down, and everything in between, still no change. Thoughts?

What if you have power to the red stop wire when the brake pedal is not pressed and my Redarc Tow-pro elite is giving me an error of there being a short in the trailer brake wiring? It’s a new travel trailer and I have 13V all the way back until I get to the plug in 7 pin harness. Before the black box is 13v and after the box at the 7 pin female adapter is reading 6v. All camper lights work, but the error for a short in the blue wire.