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Replacement Race for 25580 Bearing

Replacement Race for 25580 Bearing

Item # 25520
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Our Price: $11.97
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Shipping Weight: 0.44 lbs
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etrailer Races - 25520
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Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with 25580 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Race for 25580 Bearing part number 25520 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-1624 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 25520

  • Races
  • Standard Races
  • 6000 lbs Axle
  • 7000 lbs Axle
  • 8000 lbs Axle
  • 3.265 Inch O.D.
  • Bearing 25580
  • Race 25520
  • etrailer

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with 25580 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Outer diameter: 3.265"
  • Matching bearing (sold separately): 25580


25520 Replacement Trailer Hub Race





Video of Replacement Race for 25580 Bearing

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Race for 25580 Bearing - 25520

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (96 Customer Reviews)

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with 25580 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- 25520
by:

The bearing and race replacements I ordered for my trailer have held up well a year later with 7K + miles on them. I felt fortunate however that they were not damaged despite how they were shipped from ETrailer. After all these are precision bearings and machined races.



- 25520
by:

Very helpful, everything was correct and fit perfectly. Will use again next week on horse trailer I just bought. Arrived a day early which helped me get it done on time for my trip to Arkansas.



- 25520
by:

No grease is making it past the seal.



- 25520
by:

exact fit but not needed when buying the bearings because they come with the race also. Hard to see in the picture.



- 25520
by:

etrailer has become my vendor of choice for trailer parts. I recently needed a wheel bearing and some lug studs for my 27 year old fifth wheel. I checked several vendors and most had incomplete descriptions, or very high prices, or high priced or slow shipping. I found strainer had clear descriptions, the exact parts I needed, and by choosing Priority USPS shipping, I placed the order on Tuesday, and received the order in Arizona on Friday. The lug studs were an exact fit, despite me not having a part number, instead I used the VERY complete dimensions on the website to find the PERFECT replacement. The wheel bearing and cone were also perfect, but I had the part numbers. etrailer’s price On the bearing and cone was less than a third of some vendors!



- 25520
by:

etrailer is the only place i shop!!!!!! !!



- 25520
by:

Bought new axel parts and brakes bigger wheels for my boat trailer. My existing axel was 20 years old and never was adequate for the weight it hauled causing wheel bearings to wear out and the chance of loosing a wheel. This was the most economical way to repair as a new trailer was so expensive. All the parts I needed were available and went together beautifully. Very happy with etrailer, this is not the first time I have ordered from them great option for any parts you need.



- 25520
by:

It was ok waiting for 1 whole week to send it. Customer service told me they couldn’t find part in warehouse.



- 25520
by:

Fit trailer perfectly!



- 25520
by:

Great product and fast service. I will be back I have other trailers and I have told several or maybe even many people about you. Thank you so much These were mostly bearings and seals for a heavy trailer so I don't have any pictures. Take my word for it though with them



- 25520
by:

fits my 1999 Kaufman 3 car wedge trailer with Dexter 12"x2" brakes 6k 7k lb axles 8 lug wheels



- 25520
by:

Exactly what I needed. Youtube showed me how to take out the old and put in the new bearings and races. They fit perfectly. The part no. was hard to research, but I was pretty sure what I ordered was the right set. I confirmed the part numbers when I beat the races out of the hub. The part number was embossed on the inside of the race and they matched the ones I ordered. I got them via ground delivery much sooner than they said. I received them in about three days and it only took an afternood to install them and new brakes. Can't beat the satisfaction of doing something yourself and saving hundreds of dollars in the process.



- 25520
by:

I would like to acknowledge how much I appreciate your website. I have ordered items from this site and have not been disappointed as of yet. Your articles and videos are extremely helpful and I will continue to use your products. Thanks



- 25520
by:

No problems so far.



- 25520
by:

Bearings were received in a timely way, installed and have1500 miles on them with no problems. I use etrailer for all my trailer needs and have always gotten good product and good service.



- 25520
by:

I have ordered from E-Trailer in the past and have received the same great service again this time. Parts were delivered without delay and Jena was extremely helpful to ensure I ordered the correct items. You only need one bearing failure on a long trip to know you had better carry spares with you.



- 25520
by:

They look to be a quality product. I would have liked the bearings and races packaged so they could be stored with out damage or a chance of rusting. Two of these sets are spares so I don't have to sideline a trailer for an extended period.



- 25520
by:

very fast turn around at the correct price. putting the hub back tonight gooder than new. plan to use etrailer again for all our axle needs in the future. summerdale, AL 36580 war eagle



- 25520
by:

Everything arrived in good condition and on time. Customer service was great and so were the prices. I will certainly return again next time I need parts for our trailer fleet.



- 25520
by:

I ordered parts for a 1988 boat trailer. I want to say that all the parts ordered, the very timely delivery, and ESPECIALLY the customer service ( thank - you Amy !!! ) were Exceptional!! Will definitely do business with this company again.... 5 STARS !!



- 25520
by:

I received order on time as I was told , all parts looks great ,,,I have not installed yet,,but I will continue to get my parts from Etrailer,,Great prices,,On time delivery,,,,Thanks Mark,,and Etrailer



- 25520
by:

Good quality product and good prices, overall will definitely continue shopping here, just have to be prepared for delayed shipping.



- 25520
by:

Second time ordering. Good product. Good fit.



- 25520
by:

Excellent: big issue to me: salesperson knew what she was selling. Bearings are for later when we check the brakes and bearings in June on the trailer



- 25520
by:

Great service, great prices delivered on time. Would order all my trailer needs from etrailer.


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps



  • Does Race Need To Be Replaced If Installing New Bearings
    You can use the other components you remove from your hubs. After you have removed the hub components you will want to inspect all of the parts and replace if you find any discoloration or signs of wear or damage such as a nick. On the race you can inspect it and if you see any marks you are not sure about, run your fingernail over the mark and if it catches you should replace the race. The # 25520 is the race you would need for the # 25580 bearing.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearing and Race For Lippert Turning Point Pin Box
    We do have the Bearing # 25580 and Race # 25520 needed for your 16k Lippert Turning Point 5th wheel pin box. Unfortunately, according to Lippert if the inner nylon sleeve is damaged and needs replaced the entire pin box must be changed. And the Turning Point uses an exclusive bolt pattern so that it can only be replaced with another Turning Point.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings and Races for Single Axle Trailer with National Oil Seal 412920
    Sounds like you will need the # 15123 bearing and # 15245 race for that bearing. For the # 25580 bearing, you'll need the # 25520 race. For the oil seal you would need part # 9103309 which is the exact same as your 412920. We do not have a full kit of this so they are all sold separately. I have linked all the above mentioned products to this page for your convenience.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings, Races, and Seal for Hub that Uses 28580 and 25580 Bearings
    We do have the bearings, races, and seal that you need for your existing hubs, but they are not all available in a single kit. For your hubs, you just need the # 28580 inner bearing and the # 25580 outer bearing, along with the # 28521 and # 25520 races. For a grease seal, you most likely need the Grease Seal # T51153, which has a 2.375 inch inner diameter and a 3.623 outer diameter. I recommend measuring your existing seal just to be sure this will fit your hub.
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Recommendation for a Dexter 10k General Duty Axle
    For the Dexter General Duty 10k axles the recommended bearings that we carry are the inner bearing # 387A, outer bearing # 25580, race # 382A, and race # 25520. We have confirmed with Dexter that these are the correct parts.
    view full answer...
  • What are the Correct Bearings and Races for Dexter 8-201 Electric Drum Brakes?
    The Dexter hub you referenced, 8-201, is a 5,200 lb hub, though a 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern does not come on 5,200 lb hubs. The correct bearings for the 5,200 lb hub are # 25580 and # LM67048, while the proper races are # 25520 and # LM67010. I have attached a link to a help article on wheel bearings that you may find useful. If you can provide the diameter of the brake assemblies and/or the axle capacity, I would be happy to make a specific recommendation for you.
    view full answer...
  • Bearings and Races for Trailer with Al KO Axle 4,400 lb Axle
    An Al KO 4,400 lb trailer axle uses the bearings # 15123 and # 25580 and races # 25520 and # 15245.
    view full answer...
  • Will the Fulton Grease Cap # F001526 Fit?
    The Fulton Grease Cap # F001526 will fit if the the inside diameter of the cap mounting surface on your hub is 2.722". You need to use a dial caliper or micrometer to measure the inner diameter of the hub you have on your trailer. The difference between the dome style caps and the flat caps is only aesthetic; they fit and function the same. If you are looking for replacement bearings and races as well, use the following: - Inner Bearing: # 25580 - Outer Bearing: # 02475 - Inner Race:...
    view full answer...
  • Parts Needed to Go from Manual Adjust Trailer Brakes to Self-Adjusting Brakes
    Based on the bearing numbers you listed it looks like you have a 5,200 lb Dexter axle that would take a 12 inch brake assembly. The part # 23-459 RH and # 23-458 LH are 12 inch self adjusting brake assemblies that would work well for you. For the 25580 bearing you would need the race part # 25520 and then for the LM67048 bearing you would need the # LM67010.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings for an AL KO 5,200 lb Axle
    The AL-KO 5,200 lb axle uses the inner bearing # 25580 and outer bearing part # 15123 and grease seal # RG06-090. For races you would want # 25520 and # 15245.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings and Seal for Dexter 9,000 Pound Axle
    For your Dexter 9,000 pound axle, you will need the Inner Bearing # 387A and Race # 382A, along with the Outer Bearing # 25580 and Race # 25520. The correct oil seal should be part # 10-51, which features a 2.875 inch inner diameter and 3.880 inch outer diameter. These bearings and seal are not available as a complete kit, so they will just need to be purchased individually.
    view full answer...
  • How to Install Races in a Hub Assembly
    We do not carry a tool that will help install your races, though I can pass on some information for you that might be helpful. To install your races, this is what you'll want to do, according to our help article on replacing bearings, races and seals on a trailer hub (which I'll link for you). First, place the race in the hub, thin edge towards the outside. Carefully tap in the race until it is level with the hub. After the race is level, the old race can be used to push the new race farther...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings and Seals for 10K Dexter Axles on 2018 Big Tex Trailer
    According to my research the replacement bearings and seals you need for the 10K Dexter Axles on your 2018 Big Tex trailer are parts # 02475 (race # 02420), # 25580 (race # 25520), and # RG06-070. You can verify this by pulling your hub and checking the numbers on the bearings themselves or if you can get me the part number off of your axle I can call Dexter and verify this for you.
    view full answer...
    Image 1 for
  • Bearings For 10,000 Lb Dexter Axle
    My contact at Dexter was able to use your Dexter Axle number 4389878 and Serial number 125263858 to find the bearings. She said your hub uses outer bearing 031-030-02, outer race 031-030-01, Inner bearing 031-019-02 and Inner race 031-019-01. These parts are equivalent to the inner bearing # 387A outer bearing # 25580 and race # 382A and race # 25520.
    view full answer...
    Image 1 for
  • Hub Replacement for 8000-lb AL-KO Axle
    The best way to determine whether or not a hub is going to fit your axle and spindle is to check the bearing dimensions on your current hub-since that will determine what fits on your spindle. The size/capacity of the axle is more secondary when compared the hub fitting on the spindle; you'll also want to make sure the bolt pattern works with your current wheels to avoid having to purchase new wheels. If your current hub uses inner bearing # 25580 (1.75" inner diameter), outer bearing...
    view full answer...
  • Which Bearings Does 5100lb Dexter Axle In Travel Trailer Use?
    I reached out to my contact at Dexter and based on the serial number located on the axle tag you sent in, your 5100lb axle uses inner bearing # 25580, outer bearing # LM67048, and grease seal # RG06-070. If you are needing races as well you will need # 25520 and # LM67010. In your pictures you have bearing # 25580 which will work but you will need to purchase # LM67048 and # RG06-070 still as they do not match the other bearing or seal in your picture. I included videos of the products...
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  • Replacement Bearings For Dexter Model D1012 Axle
    Thanks for the picture! I sent that over to my contact at Dexter and your axle uses the following components: Inner bearing # 387A Inner race # 382A Outer bearing # 25580 Outer race # 25520
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  • Availability Of Replacement Bearings 28580, 25580, and Oil Seal 370352 For AL-KO 10,000lb Axle
    I would be happy to piece together the replacement components you are looking for to rebuild your AL-KO 10,000lb axle, but we do not have them in a kit. You will need the following parts: Bearing # 25580 Race # 25520 Bearing # 28580 Race # 28521 Oil Seal # 91030 You will also need oil # XLPROLUBE.
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  • Bearing/Race/Seal Kit for Boat Trailer w/ NOK AD7131E Seal 25580 Inner and LM67048 Outer Bearing
    Although we don't have a kit that includes the bearings/seal all in one package, you can certainly obtain the parts separately. You'll need: # 25580 inner bearing and its # 25520 race # LM67048 outer bearing and its # LM67010 race # 21325 Double Lip Grease Seal (cross references to the NOK seal you referenced) # 5-101 spindle washer # 165649 cotter pin I'll link you to our FAQ article about replacing bearings, races and seals.
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  • How to Measure Grease Seal's Inner Diameter
    The Replacement Inner Trailer Hub Bearing for 15123 is item # 15123. It has a inner diameterof 1.250. The matching race is # 15245. Since your other bearing measures 1.750" it is a match with, Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 25580 Item # 25580. The matching race is # 25520. The above bearings and races are included in bearing kits # BK3-100 and # BK3-110. You will need to measure on your spindle where the seal sits for its inner diameter location, that is marked "B" on the attached...
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  • How to Pick Out Bearing for 10,000 lb Dexter Axle
    We have the bearing part # 387A which is over 2 inches in inner diameter and is seen on 10,000 lb axles but I'd have to know exactly what your spindle dimensions are to know for sure what you'd need. If you can use a digital caliper like the # PTW80157 to get me the exact dimension of the spindle where the bearings and seal ride I'll be able to let you know which parts you need. A very common bearing combo for Dexter 10k axles is # 387A and # 25580. Races needed are # 382A and # 25520....
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  • Availability of Complete Bearing Kit for Dexter Axle on 2008 Jayco 5th Wheel Camper
    We do offer complete trailer bearing kits for a variety of combinations of inner and outer bearings, races and seals, but we do not happen to offer one that includes each of the components you require. You will then need to order the components as individual parts. Your outer bearing is part # 02475; outer race is part # 02420, inner bearing is part # 25580; inner race is part # 25520; double-lip 10-36 grease seal (a pair) is part # RG06-070. If you do not already have one, you might...
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  • Bearing, Races, and Cap for 10,000 lb Dexter Axle
    The bearings you need are # 387A and # 25580. Races needed are # 382A and # 25520. The oil cap kit you need is part # RG04-300. If you need a seal too you would need the part # 10-51.
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  • Converting Grease Hubs to Oil Bath Hubs on Fifth Wheel Trailer
    Since you have bearings # 25580 and # 14125A the entire hub and drum assembly to convert it to oil bath hubs is # 8-219-9UC3-A. These are 8 on 6-1/2, 12 by 2 inch hubs and include the bearings, races, seal, oil cap, wheel bolts and lug nuts. We don't carry the hubs without the bearings. Our prices can be found on the product pages.
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123. . .4



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Info for this part was:

Employee Jeff D
Installed by:
Jeff D
Employee Chris R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Employee Wilson B
Updated by:
Wilson B
Employee Alexander C
Updated by:
Alexander C

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