LubriMatic Deluxe Bearing Packer

LubriMatic Deluxe Bearing Packer

Item # L70025

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L70025 - Bearing Packer LubriMatic Grease and Lubricants
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  • Grease and Lubricants
  • Greasing Tools
  • Bearing Packer
  • LubriMatic
Grin and bear it with this Deluxe Bearing Packer! It has sturdy steel construction which makes this a valuable tool. Makes packing trailer bearings quick and easy. Optional manual function may be converted for use with power lube equipment. Lowest Prices for the best tools from LubriMatic. LubriMatic Deluxe Bearing Packer part number L70025 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


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  • Reviews (31)
  • Q & A (100)
  • Videos (1)
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  • Why etrailer?

LubriMatic Tools - L70025

Grin and bear it with this Deluxe Bearing Packer! It has sturdy steel construction which makes this a valuable tool. Makes packing trailer bearings quick and easy. Optional manual function may be converted for use with power lube equipment.


Deluxe Bearing Packer

For use with either hand operated or power lube grease guns. Threaded center post for positive locking of wheel bearing. For bearings having a minimum ID of 1/2" to maximum OD of 5", height of 1/4" to 2". Rugged steel construction.

70-025 Deluxe Bearing Packer





Video of LubriMatic Deluxe Bearing Packer


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

LubriMatic Deluxe Bearing Packer - L70025

Average Customer Rating:  4.2 out of 5 stars   (31 Customer Reviews)

Grin and bear it with this Deluxe Bearing Packer! It has sturdy steel construction which makes this a valuable tool. Makes packing trailer bearings quick and easy. Optional manual function may be converted for use with power lube equipment.

- L70025
by:

Very easy to order, tracking system is superior. Shipment and delivery were very fast, with product extremely well packaged. Superior purchase experience. 409379



- L70025
by:

My camper that I just bought used was in dire straights. Bought new races,bearings,seal package with bearing buddies. Also bought bearing packer tool and seven piece bearing tool. What a breeze. Had all four wheels done in about an hour and a half. Thanks etrailer. ROAD TRIP AHEAD. 503853



- L70025
by:

It's not very often that a product makes life so much easier and exceeds expectations like this simple but effective product. Instructions are incomplete (they basically say "put the bearing packer together with the bearings in the middle"), but eTrailer's instructions were a great supplement. First and every time I used it, grease came out evenly around the entire bearing which gives me great peace of mind that my bearings are correctly packed. Enough grease is left over after removing the bearings to spread around on the bearings after they're on the hubs. A fantastic time-saving product at a great price. 82076



- L70025
by:

LOVE this product. I packed my bearings for the first time so I wanted to make sure I had the right tools. This product worked great!! I had no issues at all and all 8 bearings were packed perfect after using this tool. Love you guys and your great videos!! 652233



- L70025
by:

Everything arrived in good order and condition. What has really impressed me with etrailer is the customer service. I received emails from real people answering my questions and keeping me up to date with my order status. I even got a phone call from the shipping person making sure they facilitated my order in the best way possible for me. Count me as being really impressed!!!! I will be ordering all of my trailering supplies from your company in the future. I wish more companies ran this way. Great experience! 651298



- L70025
by:

The first time I tried to use this bearing packer I wasn't sure if it was working or not. I was using a 3oz. grease gun to load it and never saw grease coming out of the bearing. I took it apart and there was just a big blob of grease on the inside ring of the bearing. I just used that grease to pack the bearing by hand. The next day I watched the video on it and saw that a 14oz. grease gun was being used. I had put it together properly, but apparently needed to use more grease. I'll try it again when I feel like wasting some more grease. 565120



- L70025
by:

Works as advertised - - wish I'd ordered one years ago. 562928



- L70025
by:

The product performed but was messy to use & required a lot of clean up after use. 521715



- L70025
by:

Works great 512181



- L70025
by:

The concept is good but I had difficulty getting the grease to penetrate the bearings without coming out from under the top and bottom plates 487615



- L70025
by:

I've shopped etrailer over many years...great products, great prices, great service. Needed this bearing packer to really clean and repack the bearings on an aluminum trailer that goes behind my Jeep. This is well made from metal and will outlast me or my Jeep ;-)))) 451064


Comments

just fine, does what its supposed to do and not break doing it.

Joe - 11/11/2018

45638

- L70025
by:

Great prices and quick delivery 400277



- L70025
by:

This should take most of the mess out of packing the bearings with the Zerk fitting. Haven't used yet but looks like a boon for the job. 301296



- L70025
by:

Great product, easy to use. 243280



- L70025
by:

works fine for bearing pack. Saved a lot of time 218081



- L70025
by:

This item broke after the second time it was used. The nipple broke off rather than detach from the grease gun. 212625



- L70025
by:

This product saved you from packing the bearings by hand in your palm and works as advertised. Would recommend 192294



- L70025
by:

Works just like it said with little mess 186156



- L70025
by:

Not a fan of this style packer after giving it a try. Inevitably my bearing was a bit off center which meant it sent more grease out one side. I picked up a hand press packer that I think works much better, can use bulk grease, and has less grease waste. 181479



- L70025
by:

Etrailer fulfilled this order in a very timely way and the product works as advertised. I continue to look to Etrailer for all my trailering and RV maintenance products. 161893



- L70025
by:

Works as it should, cheap and gets the job done. 153051



- L70025
by:

Easy to use but did not seem to get the grease into the bearing rollers as well as I would have expected. 94498



- L70025
by:

quick shipment. excellent product. ez to use 80584



- L70025
by:

Product arrived very quickly, in perfect condition, was fairly priced. I'm very satisfied with etrailer. 69573



- L70025
by:

Can't complain. Gets the job done 67969



- L70025
by:

never used one before watched the video,ordered it and it does work just as the video says,was inpressed ,put new bearings in my boat trailer and this packing tool did do the job well i rate it as high as i can go , 54631



- L70025
by:

Works well with light grease but not so well with heaver grease like Mobil One. 52153



- L70025
by:

The hole in the stud was not drilled all the way through. I had to drill it and take time to clean out all metal shards before completing work. Disappointed that it was not made in USA. I could have bought this at local TSC five dollars cheaper. I purchased it through Etrailer because I thought it would be better quality. My mistake!! 45583



- L70025
by:

Works as advertised. Small investiment in this tool pays back with making it much easier to pack bearings with grease. 40296



- L70025
by:

For an amateur like me this make packing bearings a snap. Thank you eTrailer. 27894



- L70025
by:

Great product for the price! 10729


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  • How To Replace Bearings and Seals on Unknown Brand and Size Trailer Axle
  • To find the proper bearings you will need to remove your current hubs. Once you remove the hubs, you can remove the current bearings and look on the face of both the inner and outer bearing for a number printed on it. If you give me those numbers, I can help you get the replacements you need that may or may not have the same number. If you can't get a number off the bearings, then you will need to take a digital caliper # PTW80157 and measure the spindles. The spindles will need to...
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  • Recommended Dexter 5,200 lb Axle With Electric Brakes Upgrade
  • The Dexter Trailer Axle w/ Electric Brakes - E-Z Lube - 6 on 5-1/2 Bolt Pattern - 86-1/2" - 5.2K # 8327816-EB can be shipped to a residential address. Each axle comes with the 86-1/2 inch hub face to hub face length and spring seats that are 71-1/2 inches on center. Each axle will come with the complete brake assemblies, the hardware to mount the assemblies to the axle's brake mounting flange, the complete hub/drum assemblies including the races, bearings, seals, cap, lug nuts, and grease...
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  • How to Identify Correct Replacement Bearings and Seals for Boat Trailer
  • Replacing your boat trailer's wheel bearings and seals is easiest if you pull one of the hubs and remove the inner and outer bearings and grease seal. The part numbers for these items usually appear as shown in the linked photo, and knowing the part numbers is the surest way to know you have selected the correct replacement parts. If you cannot get the part numbers please let me know and I will give you help with how to measure the spindles and hubs for the parts' sizes. We offer individual...
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  • Recommendation on Brake Assemblies to Fit a Horse Trailer with 5,500 Lbs Axles
  • I have found a set of brakes assemblies that will fit your trailer. I recommend the Electric Trailer Brake Kit Self-Adjusting Assemblies, # AKEBRK-7-SA. These brake assemblies are packaged to fit on axle rated at 5.2K to 7K. These assemblies are very similar to the set that you referenced, but these are self-adjusting brake assemblies. These brake will only need an initial adjustment during installation and after that they will self-adjust under normal use. I also recommend Bearing...
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  • Needing Brakes, Hubs, Bearings and Seals for a set of AL-KO Axles with 10 X 2-1/4 Inch Brakes
  • The brake assemblies that I recommend to replace your AL-KO brakes are # AKEBRK-35R and # AKEBRK-35L. Theses are the brake assemblies for both the left and right sides of the axle. I like these brake assemblies over the others we carry for two reasons, the shoe pads are machined rather than clipped and the magnets on theses brakes are thicker. The machined shoe pad will wear better and are sturdier than the clipped end shoe pad. The thicker magnet will wear better and in turn last longer...
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  • Selecting Correct Replacement 12 x 2 Electric Brake and Drum Assembly for 6000-lb Axle
  • The best way to identify the correct replacement components for your trailer is by using the part numbers from your current inner and outer bearings and grease seals (or a spindle measurement where the seal and bearings ride). It is possible to measure the spindles to obtain grease seal dimensions (location B on the photo) but this process requires care and a precision digital caliper like # PTW80157. You will also need to confirm the diameter of your wheel studs. We already know your brakes...
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  • How to Grease an EZ Lube Spindle Hub on Trailer
  • Here's how to grease everything upon initial installation. First, grease your bearings and spindle by hand or with a bearing packer like part # L70025. If you are going to do it by hand, start with a gob of grease in your palm and then press the bearing into the grease with some force. Next, insert your bearings and grease seal in the hub and mount your hub on your spindle. You should slowly pump grease into the spindle. As you are pumping the grease into the spindle, occasionally...
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  • Replacement Trailer Hub with 5-on-4-1/2-Inch Bolt Pattern
  • The replacement idler hub kit that you referenced, Dexter 2200-lb E-Z Lube Hub Assembly # 8-258-50UC1-EZ that is shown in the linked video, does use the same inner and outer bearing (L44649) and it does have the 5-on-4-1/2-inch bolt pattern you require. This kit is intended for 2200-lb E-Z Lube axles and wheels from 13- to 15-inches in diameter. In order to determine if this is the correct hub you'll need to verify your axle's weight rating, which should be indicated on a sticker or...
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  • Recommended Hub Components For Dexter 4,300-Lb Axle On 2013 Airstream Trailer
  • I found the components you need for your Dexter axle on your Airstream trailer. The grease seal you need is part # RG06-070. The inner bearing is part # 25580. The inner race is part # 25520. The outer bearing is part # LM67048, and the outer race is part # LM67010. I have also attached a helpful article that explains how to replace hub components. To make the job of packing the wheel bearing much easier I recommend a bearing packer like part # L70025. For grease I recommend part...
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  • Will the Dexter Trailer Idler Hub Assembly 34822545BX Work with a 14 Inch Diameter Wheel
  • If you have 14" wheels on your trailer then you will want to use the Trailer Idler Hub Assembly part # AKIHUB-545-2-LFEZ-1K instead of the Dexter Trailer Idler Hub Assembly part # 34822545BX. The Dexter Trailer Idler Hub Assembly is only rated for use with 8" to 12" wheels whereas the Trailer Idler Hub Assembly is rated for use with 13" to 15" wheels because it has more of a surface area on the hub face. Unfortunately, we don't have any pre-greased hubs that will work for you but greasing...
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  • Are the Races Pressed Into the Hub
  • Yes, the races come pressed in the hub. You will only have to insert and pack the bearings (check out part # L70025) and press in the grease seal. A hammer and a small block helps when tapping in the grease seal. We also have a 7-Piece installation set, part # PTW83020, that comes in handy if you do your own trailer maintenance.
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  • How to Select Bearing Buddy for Trailer Using L68111 Inner Bearing
  • Part # L68111 refers to a race that matches up with bearing # L68149. The inner grease seal that fits with these parts is # RG06-050, which is a pair of double-lip grease seals. These seals have an outer diameter of 2.565-inches (that fits within the hub bore) and an inner diameter of 1.719-inches (that fits on the spindle). A common dimension is 1.980-inches and in this size you can choose an item like the non-threaded stainless-steel # BB1980A-SS. If you do use Bearing Buddies you'll...
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  • Spindle and Hub Combination to Fit 4.80 X 12 Tires and Wheels on a BBQ Grill Build
  • When manufacturing axles for a wagon/trailer you will need to measure the inside of the square tube that you will be using for the axle. Once you know this measurement then you can pick the correct spindles and idler hubs. One spindle that would work well for your build would be Redline 1-1/2 Inch Square X 4 Inch Spindle # SP204BT8. This spindle has a square mount shank that will fit an 1-1/2 square tube. This spindle will have to be welded to the axle. It is recommend that this be done...
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Expert Research:
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