Even for experienced mechanics, a brake controller installation can seem like a complicated task, especially when starting from scratch. Now, many manufacturers run most of the wires for a brake controller at the factory, so all you have to do is plug into them. What may have once seemed like an overwhelming feat is now much more manageable - just plug in and go, it's that easy.
If your 1992-2008 Ford full-size van already has the factory installed 7-Way trailer connector, you would only need two pieces to equip the vehicle for towing a trailer with electric brakes. Sometimes, Ford provides an adapter that connects directly to the brake controller and to the OEM brake controller plug on the vehicle (check the glove compartment).
The OEM plug is located below and to the left of the steering column, near the emergency brake pedal (Figure 1).
After locating the OEM plug and connecting the brake controller wiring to it, mount the brake controller to a place on the dash that is easily accessible. Typically, the controller would be mounted on the right side of the steering wheel, below the dash. The controller should be mounted comfortably within the driver's reach.
Once mounted, the brake controller installation is complete. See the owner's manual for tips on setting up the brake controller for safely towing your trailer and its load.
If your 1992-2008 Ford full-size van has a factory installed 4-Way flat trailer connector, then only a few extra parts are required to equip the vehicle for towing a trailer with electric brakes.
If the van does not have a factory installed 4-Way connector, a plug-in 4-Way wiring harness is available for select models.
Once the brake controller has been installed as described above, begin working in the rear of the van. Locate the group of connectors (Figure 2) along the inside of the driver's side frame rail, between the bumper and the rear wheel. Two of the connectors will be similar in size and shape, but one has a separate white wire running from it to the vehicle frame, and the other does not. You will be using the connector without the separate wire.
Peel back the loom or tape and verify that the connector has blue and orange wires running into it. Use a circuit tester at to confirm the function of the wires.** The blue wire should show a power reading when the vehicle's brake pedal or the manual lever on the brake controller are engaged. The orange wire should have a constant power reading. Once you have verified this, cut off the plug (Figure 3).
Trim back the additional wires and wrap them with electrical tape (Figure 4). Leave the blue and orange wires slightly longer, so that you can easily connect them to the wires from the 6-Way or 7-Way adapter.
The 7-Way and 6-Way adapter will come with a 4-Way trailer end that connects to the vehicle's 4-Way trailer connector, and four (4) or three (3) extra lead wires. The white wire is for the ground, the blue wire is for the trailer brakes, the black wire (7-Way) or red wire (6-Way) is for a "hot" lead coming back from the battery, and the orange or purple wire (7-Way adapter only) is for another auxiliary function, such as reverse lights.
The next step would be to connect the adapter to the OEM wiring. To install the 7-Way or 6-Way adapter, first plug in the 4-Way trailer connector on the adapter to the 4-Way connector on the vehicle. Next, attach the blue and black wires from the adapter to the blue and orange wires that were exposed by cutting off the factory plug (Figure 5). Using a self-tapping screw, secure the white wire to the vehicle frame to ground the adapter. After mounting the adapter, installation is complete.
**Note: It is important to use a circuit tester to confirm the function of each wire. We encountered blue and orange wires in our installations, but manufacturers have been known to switch colors. Your vehicle may also need additional fuses and/or relays installed to activate the wiring to the rear plugs. Check your owners manual or fuse block diagram and make sure all fuses and relays labeled for "Trailer Tow" are installed prior to testing the wires.
Jd
7/1/2021
I have 2003 E250 Ext. that is factory wired for 4 pin. It has all the necessary fuses and relays but for the trailer reverse needs a fuse added and power source may also but all brake related fuses and relays are in the panel. Under the dash where they should be located I also have two identical harnesses.. except for the color and number and function of active pins. The higher up one is grey the lower one is black but both are shaped to accept the same style of plug. The upper grey one I want to say has 5 poles and the very top left is constant 12V. The one down from it is ACC or IGN forward/running 12V and the third one below that on left is a turn signal and the one beside that (bottom right) is a turn signal. That’s all the active poles . On the lower black on, it has 6 poles but only the the middle one on right of it carries a low voltage charge with ignition off, and with vehicle running the voltage climbs up to over a couple volts(alternator output) and when break peddle is pressed it is the full 12.75 + w vehicle off and 14.4v w vehicle running. My point is it is all working like it should and this is a very clean shuttle package van not been messed with .. But I have one connector supplying breaking 12v and another doing the turn signals. I was told by Ford dealer there was a Ford specific part that did use both harnesses and that trailer shops should still have a version. Trouble I am having is that back at the wiring harness break at rear for 4 pin I have found no break power wire added or folded up in the 4 wire loom. I’ve worked my way up to the bolt together section of harness that is near fuel rail etc under driver seat area that is the location where all the under dash harness and 4wire stuff connects into from the panel etc and only a 4 wire seems to be coming out of that. The van was one owner shuttle with some extra light circuits and stuff on it by the conversion company etc.. but otherwise factory..and clean. It never had a hitch on it until I put hitch so it never towed but does have the factory 4 wire. I’m wanting to make sure there isn’t a brake power wire ran somewhere and or a particular under dash harness that is supposed to use both those harnesses to tie the turn and braking stuff to the controller? And be sure I don’t have some kind of plug and play setup where I don’t need to run and fuse a new power wire. I mean if I have a harness with an active pole for 12v braking power… one would think it has a fuses circuit wire somewhere to tie into. I haven’t checked behind the overflow yet or behind the rear tail light etc .. but I would like to understand from a professional do I just need to get a controller module and plug it into the ‘correct’ under dash harness that has the brake power wire and then I prefer to use the 4 wire to 6 or 7 wire setup that is made to T into the 4 wire at rear … then maybe all I have to do is find where the blue wire for brake is and run to it ? Help!! It seems ready for plug and play and I don’t want to do more than necessary
Chris D.
5/14/2020
I have a 2004 Winnebago Minnie Winnie on a Ford E-450 chassis. When I plug my Tekonsha P2 into what looks like the correct plug under the dash by the emergency brake, my right blinker light comes on and stays lit. I saw a video that mentioned that there may be a different plug under the dash that I need to plug into instead. What wire colors should I be looking for on the factory wiring side? Where would this second plug be located? Why would my blinker stay lit solid? Also, when the harness is plugged in, the blue wire has power even when the key is off.
Sarah
3/8/2020
I have a 97 ford econoline e150 and trying to get trailer brake controller and wiring sorted out. The plug indicated in figure 2 and 3 is not there on my vehicle however the plug in in figure 1 is. Can you help me? Where could this connector be?
Kevin.
5/24/2024
I Have a 2001 E150 van with factory 4 way plug (far as I can tell) . However it only has one other connector (capped) that has heavy blue, orange, black and white wires, with a ground wire connected to the frame. For the 2001 is this the connector that needs to be cut off and connected to my 4-7 way?