If your vehicle already has a 4-way flat, this kit includes everything you need to install an electric trailer brake controller and 7-way connector. If there's not an existing 4-way flat on your vehicle, you can purchase one separately.
Features:
Note:
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today we're taking a look at a universal installation kit for trailer brake controllers. This kit includes the wiring and accessories that are required for installation of a trailer brake controller.Now brake controllers are sold separately. They're available at etrailer.com. We have a wide variety of brake controllers to choose from. This kit is specifically designed for use on a vehicle that has an existing four-way flat trailer connector. You can see right here that this plug is the plug that goes into the existing four-way on your vehicle.Now if your vehicle does not already have a four-way flat trailer connector installed, the etrailer.com application guide can be used to find the easy to install connector that is made specifically for your vehicle.Now basically with this video, what I wanna do is go over everything that comes with part number ETBC7.
So I have it all laid out here on the table. You get 25 foot of 10 gauge duplex wire. It's wrapped and abrasion resistant covering, so it protects it. You will need to connect one wire to the blue wire on your brake controller and then connect one wire to the positive post on the vehicle battery with the included 40-amp circuit breaker.Now if you drive a crew cab, extended cab with a long bed, cargo van, minivan, or extended length SUV, it's going to be very beneficial that you go ahead and purchase 10 foot of extra wire. It's gonna make your installation so much easier.
You can purchase that separately with part number ETBCXW at etrailer.com.Now, this right here is your pre-wired seven-way and four-way flat trailer connector. It mounts easily at the rear of your vehicle with the included bracket. So you can see here, this is where the seven-way would go. Notch on the side is where the four-way would go. So it comes with the bracket and it comes with all the necessary mounting hardware.It features a really nice spring loaded lid; goes over the seven-way and then it has a dust cap for the four-way so that's going to protect those terminals or connection points.
It's gonna keep dirt and moisture away which is really gonna help corrosion. It comes with three circuit breakers. You get a 20-amp, a 30-amp, and a 40-amp breaker. Now three are provided, but only two are gonna be used, so you'll need to refer to your brake controllers instructions to see if it requires the 20-amp or 30-amp circuit breaker.It comes with a circuit tester. That's this little device right here.
This helps you find the stoplight switch wire above the brake pedal. Again, all the hardware for installation is included. It comes with your ring terminals. It comes with your quick splice wire connectors, your butt connectors. It comes with self tapping screws. It comes with some cable ties or zip ties to secure any excess or slack in your wiring and it comes with wire loom, which provides a nice, professionally finished installation appearance.It also comes with detailed installation instructions and a step by step guide that etrailer put together for you. It's gonna take you through the complete installation step by step.That's gonna do it for today's look at the universal kit for trailer brake controllers.Again, this is part number ETBC7.
Average Customer Rating: 4.8 out of 5 stars (1615 Customer Reviews)
If your vehicle already has a 4-way flat, this kit includes everything you need to install an electric trailer brake controller and 7-way connector. If there's not an existing 4-way flat on your vehicle, you can purchase one separately.
Great kit, was easy to install. I wish the metal bracket that houses the socket was a thicker gauge metal. It seems a little flemsy. 575182
I am submitting this review even though all of your customers MUST know you have one of the best, if not THE best, trailer company in the USA. You have the best products, the best selection for various applications, and no other company can beat your prices... I already purchased a lot of your products and believe me when I say I did extensive research on the exact same products before submitting my orders due to my limited funds. All of your staff are kind, courteous, patient (when it comes to helping a trailer-newbie, such as myself) understanding, very knowledgeable, and professional. Submitting an order is easy, and all of my various orders where shipped almost instantaneously and arrived on schedule. You are the best... and then, there are all the rest! Thank you for having such a great operation! 525944
This product I discovered by watching an online video. The video shows how easy it is to hook up with all the parts supplied. I liked the fact that I didn't have to hunt up any parts, everything is supplied in the kit that you will need. The kit works great on my 1999 Dodge RAM 4x4 but since its universal it should work on most others. The kit was well wrapped and even supplied zip-ties for securing the cables, along with circuit breakers to protect the equipment. 572277
All parts needed are included (with the exception of a no-drill mounting bracket) for connecting a 7-blade trailer connector to a system that has a 4-pin connector. Installation is not easy. It involves getting up under the vehicle to run the wire from back to front. Routing to keep away from moving and hot parts can be tricky. On a 2016 Ford Escape SE, I was able to run the wire under a heat shield part way and through a subframe part way. The hardest part was figuring out how to run the wires through the firewall. In the 2016 Escape, there is an unused plug high on the firewall to the left of the brake pedal. I managed to punch a hole just big enough to run the necessary wires. While it would have been better if Ford had provided a connector for the brake controller, this kit works. Crimping connectors is the hardest part, especially up under the dash. Also, instead of using the large self-tapping screw to fasten the ground wire at the rear of the vehicle, I was able to use an existing bolt, adding a suitable nut to fasten it directly to the frame. My testing indicates that this will work. Here are pictures of part of the wiring and the breakers 232499
I bought this kit in conjunction with a P3 controller to put on my 2015 Toyota FJ, and I was really impressed with the kit ( I have the 4-wire trailer connector, and with a controller this upgrades to the 7-wire (with a 4 wire connector on the side). Pros: - Has everything you need, and the parts are not flimsy. Has enough screws, eyelets, cable, ties, etc. - even has a power tester (good for finding the cold side of the break light switch) - Wire is longer than you need and as thick as you will ever need Cons (and I am being very picky, very small discrepancies); - The bracket for the plug (that you mount under the bumper) is a little flimsy and bends too easy. I reinforced it. It is exactly the same one they sell at the auto parts store, not like there is any alternative. - The over-current breakers that come with the kit you are supposed to mount somewhere in in the engine compartment, on the firewall or wherever is convenient. I didn't like that, so I took a piece of heavy-gauge sheet metal (left over from a metal building kit), cut a "L" piece and mounted the breakers to that and found a screw to attach my "L" bracket to. It would be nice if they included something like that in the kit. The instructions were good, you will need some basic tools and plan on a day to install but you will save a lot of money over taking your car/truck down to the RV dealer. (Pay attention if you get a proportional controller some must be installed level, or can't be tilted side to side--might want to check out where you are going to put it before you buy the controller; there wasn't a lot of room/options in my FJ). 225644
Very easy install. Had fun doing it, took me about 3 hours. Took a lot of breaks. Watch several U Tube on how to go about it. Instructions easy to follow. Reason I did it is my 2011 Tacoma came without a tow package per say, only a class 3 hitch and 4 flat connection. thanks to you I now can pull the R Pod we are getting. 553427
I realy do not know where to start. 1) products and service were prompt and very curtious, but there was a major problem. 2005 tundra trailor hitch, break controller and wire harness. I first ordered and installed a trailor hitch on my truck. I needed the hitch for a tundra that had the drop down bumper with trailor ball holes drilled. Everything went as advertised. However it was necessary to use clips to pull the hitch to the frame to drill the aditional holes. 2. Here is the however. Before ordering a wire harness and controller I read the instructions on your web sight to determen if I had a tow package. I looked for the white plug behind and above and on the left side of the instrument panel to determine if I had a tow package. No white plug could be found. In all of my conversations with sells and letters to techneshions I said I had a 4 pin plug but no 7 pin plug. I had the step bumper with trailor ball mount holes but no white plug. Every one determined that with no white plug I did not have a tow package imstalled. I order a controller and the wire harness. I mounted the seven / four pin harness and the wireing from the rear of the truck to the engine compartment and mounted the fuses. The next day I removed the instrument panel lower trim and the air duct and begin to look for the wiring harness and the grommet in the left side of the firewall to rout the wireing into the cab. I looked and felt around the wire bundles and felt the white plug taped with black electric tape on the outside of the wire bundle. It was impossible to see the white plug even with the trim panel and air duct removed and black tape installed over it. After looking at other web sights I learned that if I had taken the VIN number to the parts department of the Toyota dealer I ould have learned that I had a tow package. If I had known that I had the tow package I would have ordered the upgraded brake controller with the less expensive wire harness. Johnnie Reaves 338977
Bought towing adaptors/wiring parts for a 2001 Dodge Durango (it came from the factory without a tow package) and a 2014 Honda Pilot (came from the factory with a receiver, and only half of the tow wiring harness). I knew a year ago I needed to get these two vehicles ready for a move we’ll be making from TN to SC using a trailer with electric brakes (by August of this year). You have the list of items I purchased. I finally got around to starting the projects. Just finished the 2014 Honda Pilot yesterday. The installation on the Pilot went somewhat well. I made one mistake (human error on my part) I put the 30 amp fuse from the T-one vehicle wiring harness #118265 in the wrong fuse box under the hood. Also, after installing the plug in wiring adapter for the electric brake controller #3070-P and the Prodigy P2, I discovered I had no power running to the brake controller. I didn’t know why. I happened by chance while reviewing the hundreds of customer feedback comments that I needed an additional 20 amp fuse under the hood in one of the fuse boxes in slot number 14, for e-trailer. It seems to work ok now for the Honda Pilot (going to hook up the trailer today for a trial run). I’ll be installing the other components on the 2001 Dodge Durango this week. E-Trailer dosn’t have a “How To” video for the 2001 Dodge Durango Sport without a towing package. Not looking forward to this install at all. A few years back, I did install a receiver and a 4-pin adapter wiring kit to my rear brake lights on this vehicle. I hope with the the Universal Kit #ETBC7 and the additional Prodigy P2 #90885 I bought from you guys I can get the Durango ready to tow the same electric brake trailer. I did find “Trailer Brake Controller Installation-2001 Dodge Ram-etrailer.com” that I hope will make this installation go ok. Will there be any additional fuses or other things that I will need for this vehicle? Thanks, Garry 539119
Heather A - 07/10/2018I didn't like the way this plug was designed. Plug one end to your 4 way switch, ground one and run the rest under your car to your battery. No way. Glad they didn't suggest a duck-tape. I cut all the ends from wires and used soldering iron, heat shrink, proper size wires and electrical tape to make everything flawless and strong. Took my seats out and ran the wires from back to front under carpet with existing vehicle wires. I double checked all my wires and found out that inclosed instructions are very confusing. Looking at the picture of the 7 way plug, wire colors match but locations do not. Do not freak out. If you followed colors it is all wired correctly but it should be noted that picture is for reference only. Going clockwise (instruction picture) 12V, running lights, left turn,ground,brake output and right turn. Real plug is: 12V, right turn, brake output, ground, left turn and running lights. Remember it is all wired correctly and it is just wrong in the picture. Center for reverse is the same. For regular size truck you might also need to purchase longer cable than the one provided, just so you could follow contours of your truck. Plastic grommets for firewall and back of the truck are not provided neither. If I would to do this again, I would purchase all the needed parts separately and with the extra saved cash I would buy needed parts and wires. 193897
Great kit! I Had exactly enough of the two wire harness to complete the job on my 2013 Chevy Express. I already had the T-One 4 wire harness installed which plugged into the 7 wire receptacle nicely. I purchased addition harness conduit to cover wiring under hood and dashboard to make a clean and factory look. The local parts store had side post battery bolts with threaded attachments for the power and ground leads. The only difficult part was locating a suitable brake switch signal feed. I ended up using the aux. stop light fuse in the under hood fuse box. Well worth the money spent! 144528
Thanks for putting together such an excellent product and system. This is the first brake control I have installed, the Prodigy P2, and the ETBC7 installation kit. Went great, looks good and works well. Watching the video of an installation on an Xterra made my installation on a Pathfinder go even smoother. Many thanks. 136283
Charlie B - 06/19/2015I installed the brake controller 2days ago all the parts fit ,it took about two hours ,I hooked it to my new trailer and pulled it down the hwy. I could here and feel the brakes apply but it did not seem to stop much,but I am happy with them 575250
TL;dr: Simple but tedious to install a 7-pin trailer connector and brake controller on a 2014 Jeep Wrangler. All went well, strong kudos to eTrailer, but kit would have been better if the brake stop light wire on the controller harness were about twice as long, or materials to extend it were included. Long Story: I wanted to add a 7-pin and 4-pin trailer connector with wiring harness, and a trailer brake controller, to my Jeep Wrangler. With knowledgeable and considerate help from eTrailer's Shery T, I ordered a wiring harness with 4-pole flat connector (118416), Tekonsha Primus IQ controller (TK90160), and Universal Installation Kit (ETBC7). Once the order arrived (on time and in good condition), I read the instructions a few times and watched some of the videos on eTrailer's site. I'm an experienced DIY'r with metalworking and electrical experience, but have done almost nothing automotive, so I wanted to be sure I knew what I was about to attempt. The instructions were clear and covered all my questions, so I didn't feel the need to call up eTrailer for help. I did have the impression that they would have been happy to assist, had I done so. I decided I didn't want to use the supplied mounting bracket, since I did not want the connector below the bumper where it might catch on an obstacle, or above where it would be in the way when loading and unloading. Instead, I cut a mounting hole in my aftermarket bumper with a 2-1/8" hole saw, filing the edges smooth and giving it a coat of paint to prevent rust, then drilling and tapping four screw holes using the mounting bracket as a template. It turned out as nicely as I could have wanted, and looks like the bumper was designed to hold the connector. Installing the 4-pole flat connector kit was easy. Take off the tail light, unplug the existing connector, plug in the kit harness (only one way for it to fit), attach the ground wire to an existing hole on the body, and run the connector out to the hole in the bumper for later. A little bit of lying down and standing up again to run the wires under the car and through to the ends, and some contortions to reach the grounding site I'd chosen, otherwise nothing at all difficult. Check that the tail lights still work as expected: all is good. Next came the 7-pin connector. Seal the 4-pin flat connectors with dielectric grease, connect them, zip-tie together, and stuff them back through the bumper hole. Join the hot (black) and brake (blue) wires to the duplex cable with butt connectors, and run that through the bumper hole next to the 4-pin wires. Connect the chassis ground wire to the same ground I'd connected the 4-pole harness to. Also, since I wanted working backup lights on the trailer, attach a wire to the reverse light circuit with a splice connector, and connect that to the 7-pin connector's center contact (purple) wire (used a small voltmeter to verify which one was the correct tail light wire). Then bolt the 7-pin connector to the bumper, with some Loc-Tite to keep the bolts in place. Then it was time to run the wiring up to the engine compartment. This took a lot more lying down and standing up, fiddling with placement of the plenum-rated duplex cable as it runs under the car, avoiding pinch points and hot areas. I made liberal use of zip ties to keep it in place, using up the ones that came with the kit and adding a few I had from previous projects (I did ruin a few when I made a mistake and sent the cable to a place I couldn't make work). It took me a little while to figure out where I would pass the wire through the firewall to the dashboard, but once I found the right rubber grommet and convinced myself that it actually led to the area behind the dashboard, it all fell into place. I found a good place on the firewall for the two circuit breakers, and mounted them first. Connecting the wires was easy: cut, strip, crimp. The kit had exactly enough butt connectors, ring terminals, and splices to make the connections, don't lose any. Following the instructions, I hooked up the rest of the wiring to the controller harness, battery, and circuit breakers. The Wrangler engine compartment is pretty cramped, so I had some difficulty working around the hoses and wires, and working under the dashboard was even more cramped. I also picked a spot for the controller low and to the right of the steering wheel where I attached the mounting bracket. The only operation that gave me trouble was figuring out which wire from the brake light switch (by the brake pedal) I was supposed to use, and then splicing to it. It was difficult to maneuver the test probe under the dash, and I had to unwrap some of the tape holding the wire bundle together to even get access to the wires. After a lot of fiddling about, I finally was able to get the test probe to confirm which connection was live only when the brake pedal was depressed. And then, the wire from the controller harness wasn't long enough to reach the wire. I had to use some extra wire, solder, and heat-shrink tubing from previous projects to extend the harness wire to reach the right point. Then I had the frustrating experience of trying to close the vampire splice using only one hand, since the Jeep's footwell is too small to let me get both hands into the area. All in all, I'm quite happy with the result. The connector looks like it belongs, the wires are all hidden in places that shouldn't pinch or cook, and all voltmeter checks pass. I can't wait to try it out! 335495
The product was exactly as it is advertized. No complaints. The only issue I had was the rubber boot on the 4 way connector that goes to the existing four way on the vehicle. My 4 way connector on the truck (2005 Ford Expedition) had a rubber boot on it as well and did not fit directly. I spoke to the sales rep Tamra regarding this and she directed me to a video showing the installation on a Ford Van. The video showed the adapter with the rubber boot sliding into the rubber boot on the Van side. Unfortunately on the Expedition, it did not fit and I had to cut the rubber boot off of the adapter to make it fit. Was not a big deal, but I would caution buyers that the boot will have to be cut on the adapter for the 2005 Ford Expedition's. It may be the same for other years and other models I am not sure. I did read about other customers who had to do similar things on different vehicles. All in All I was very pleased with the shipping time and quality. I was also very impressed with the customer service. They were very patient and understanding my questions about the product. Will do business again and recommend to others. 38095
This kit was really helpful in completing the installation. It'd have been 5 stars except for some missing parts and color change puzzles. If you buy the EBTC7 installation kit you may have to buy extra wire (certainly if you have extended cab long bed) and you'll have to buy battery connectors. Finally, you'll have to sort out color changes from battery to Prodigy to vehicle to trailer connectors. 560205
Toyota Tacoma 2015 no factory wiring harness. Two things that would make installation of this much easier, especially for a 65 year old man, like me. Provide a 1 foot long piece of 1/4 inch pvc tubing. After you puncture the rubber grommet around the wiring harness, there was no way still for me to push the wires through all that rubber. So I got a piece of tubing and shoved that through after piercing the rubber with a succession of larger and larger screwdrivers. Then I pushed the tubing through. The wires easily slide through the tubing. Had to do this 3 times but it worked great. Hooking up the red wire on the controller pigtail is a PITA. How about this. Manufacture a plastic connector that connects the brake switch plug to the brake switch that ALREADY has a red line lead on it. Make them vehicle model specific. Charge ten bucks for it. It would be worth it to avoid the distress of trying to hook it up with a clam shell splice. Just finding the right wire was hard enough, getting it hooked up, yikes. 355868
Everything I needed to hook up my 7 way trailer wiring !! Great service !! 570407
Everything I needed for my 2012 Ford Escape. Install went smoothly. One extra circuit breaker unused. Built a bracket to attach connector to at the rear. 555742
I purchased this kit to connect our big van with our popup camper that just had electric brakes installed. Installation video was very helpful. Lights on the trailer are much brighter and brakes work great. 658593
Thanks eTrailer.com! My wire kit arrived with all of the necessary parts very quickly! Using your install video helped to make my install a breeze, Thank You for the install videos! The video was easy to understand and I was able to buildup on it a little. I tried to wrap the wires at the engine from the frame to the battery with protective sleeve for a little added protection. Also, I would like to recommend adding an additional ring terminal with the kit... I ended up clamping on onto the ground for the wire harness of the brake controller only to realize the cable was too short. I ended up needing 1 extra but a trip to the part store did the job! Thanks again! I look forward to seeing how my weight distributing hitch is going to work now :) Ryan Denver, CO 144786
product was excellent and COMPLETE. everything you need with very DETAILED directions. i also ordered the prodigy P2 to complete my install. both were excellent and very recommended. only modification was on the actual plastic cover on bumper, i cut away minimal pieces with razor knife for perfect fit. you can look at all the pics to check out install. I took advantage of the reverse light wire and put LED light bar on back of trailer. i made one email to e trailer for exact numbers for my make and model. the response was pretty impressive. Full detail with pictures and product numbers all set up so all i had to do was press order and pay for it. This is how american companies are supposed to be ran......I LOVE IT!!!! 117533
matt - 03/05/2015Kit arrived and I'm excited after inspecting the parts and seeing what a high quality construction and professional view it would present when I get it installed. I'm installing a brake controller in a neighbor's 1979 Chevrolet 1T 4WD truck that didn't have a factory tow package. He's wanting to transfer his antique Mustangs from Northern Virginia to a property he purchased in the mountains of West Virginia. He got a good deal on a car trailer, but then realized he didn't have the 7-pin connector on his truck to be able to use the electric brakes on the trailer. Instructions included are clear and easy to follow. Thank you for a GREAT product! 569048
I purchased this knowing it was universal, and that it was low end in price. Just to save you some grief, go out and buy some longer/stronger zip ties, some beefier self-tapping screws, and some extra wire. If you want a stout holder for the plug, this one seems pretty flimsy, but when everything is together, it stiffens up. One's in the store are thicker and stronger...that's up to you. The instruction are pretty clear. It is physically challenging to move around under the vehicle, so you may want to use a pit or lift to gain easier access. The self tapping screws do not automatically break. They break when you go to tighten them up snug. You may get by with them if you go really slow. I just prefer to use stronger ones. When using the tester, make sure to connect the clip to something metallic to get a reading. There is not enough wire to actually connect a brake controller. Go get some wire. I wound up having to use extra for the ground wire. Not much...about 6 feet or so. There are just enough connectors and screws so if you don't want to get stopped mid project, have some extras on hand. Overall, I am pleased with the unit, and for the price I am pleased. If I had paid more, I would have expected more, but i have to admit, those doggone screws really bothered me. See the pics of the install. The best part of the transaction was the customer service. They were patient and helpful...definitely the people you want to talk to if you are just getting into this like me. 228167
This is a great product. I think etrailer made it easy for our novice DIY. I basically read the instructions and watched video a few times before I start. The installation is not difficult; it is just a dirty and tiring work. One thing I should mention, is that grounding is very important. I wasted most of my time for not properly grounding. The first place you encounter the issue of grounding will be when you test the break wire in the box under the dash to the left side of the steering column. Using the tester, you must find a bare metal part for grounding, otherwise the other end of the tester would lit up properly. This is not mentioned or emphasized in the video or written instructions. Painted surface won't do since it insulates the metal. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out why the break wire won't lit up, calling etrailer customer service representatives, nobody really told me this. I basically figured out by myself. Hopefully you won't need to waste time on this. The second place you will encounter grounding is in the front engine box near the battery where you must drill into the frame to attach the ground wire, like instructed by etrailer. But I didn't like to drill "unnecessary" holes into my frame, I just used a ziptie to attach the ground wire to the frame, so grounding wasn't good. I eventually figure out I must drill into the frame to get to the bare metal for grounding. The 3rd place is in the back, there is another ground wire you must drill into the frame to reach bare metal. I choose to drill into the tire tub, since it won't affect the structure integrity of the frame rails. Either way it will work as long as you drill into the bare metal. The wires supplied by etrailer is long enough for this installation. 450602
Overall the kit is a nice package and it was great having an installation video for my vehicle which made installation much simpler than trying to figure it out with an instruction sheet. The negative issue I had with this kit was the quality of the small self tapping screws and the bolts and nuts that mount the 7-Way Trailer Connector to the hitch. I had 2 of the self tapping screws' heads snap off while attempting to mount them to the inside of the engine compartment. The two nuts used for the bolts to attach the 7-Way Trailer Connector were bad - one wouldn't screw onto the bolt and one stripped as I was tightening it. The installation videos are awesome because it is so much easier to watch the instructions rather than read them. There were a couple of issues with the installation video for the 2008 Hyundai Entourage. The first issue was the narration in regards to the installation of the circuit breakers. The narrator stated that the 20 Amp Circuit Breaker was installed on the rear firewall. He then stated to run the power wire from the 7-Way Connector to the breaker mounted on the rear firewall, which would have been the 20 Amp breaker. The 40 Amp circuit breaker is the correct circuit breaker used to connect to the power wire to the 7-Way Connector. I would recommend anyone watching the videos to just double check with the installation instructions to verify that you install the kit correctly. The other issue I had with the video was what I believed to be a bit misleading. The installation video showed the installation of a rubber grommet in the hole that is drilled out near the brake pedal. Maybe it is just me, but I had watched this video a couple of times before I ordered the ETBC7 kit and assumed that the rubber grommet would have been included in the kit, but it is not. It would have been nice if the video made a statement about purchasing the rubber grommet separately. Unfortunately, I had to stop in the middle of installing this kit to run to the auto store to purchase a rubber grommet and then to the hardware store to purchase stronger bolts, nuts, and self tapping screws. Not a huge deal, but it was an inconvenience. I did appreciate the super fast shipping and the good prices that etrailer.com has to offer. The free shipping is really nice, too. Etrailer.com, I hope that you don't think I am slamming your company, because I am not. I just wanted to give a fair and honest review for my purchase and experience with your product. 99715
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