Step up to a complete ac system in 13500 btu for dependable cooling without piecing parts together. Ideal when replacing older R410A units, since new R32 systems require a full swap that includes the rooftop unit, air distribution box, and a thermostat. Before you choose, match ducted or ductless and zone needs, confirm roof thickness and any thin-roof plates, and note install steps can differ on 2"-3" roofs.
It can with a soft start; one setup started and ran on a 2000 Watt generator for a short trial on High Cool. Verify a soft start is included and your generator's output. Do a test run and monitor draw. If using multi-zone hardware as a single zone, confirm dip switch settings per the manual.
Yes, when upgrading to R32 refrigerant, a Complete AC System is necessary. Plan to change the thermostat and air distribution box, and expect more than simple plug-and-play. You typically won't need to run all-new wiring, but the setup becomes single-zone if that's what the system supports.
Avoid blowing directly into a nearby wall when replacing a roof fan opening; that can hurt distribution and increase noise. In a bedroom, consider ducted airflow or thermostat placement near the ceiling to better sense temps. Run thermostat wire in conduit if surface routing is needed.
Match the system to your RV's airflow setup—ducted ties into existing ducts; ductless blows straight into the room. Low-profile options with a heat pump are available in 13,500 Btu. These systems include the AC unit, air distribution box, and a thermostat.
Confirm roof thickness; some 2-3" roofs may need shorter mounting bolts and baffle trimming, and gaps in the baffle may need foil tape. An electrical box may need to be tilted to fit an opening. Plan thermostat wiring if adding a new wall stat. Lap seal under the gasket and re-torque the unit a few times, waiting 30 minutes between.
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