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Tow Ready Replacement Plugin Harness for the Tekonsha P3, Voyager, Prodigy, and Primus Brake Controllers. Also works with Draw-Tite Intella-stop Xtreme, Intella-stop Ultra, Intella-stop Digital, and Activator III (5520) brake controllers.
California residents: click here
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Clayton: Hi, everyone. Clayton here at etrailer.com. Here at etrailer.com, we install, test and review a lot of different products to help you as a customer make a more educated decision before your purchase. Today, we're going to be working on a 2015 Toyota Sienna. We're going to be taking a look at and I'll show you how to install the replacement brake controller harness for our Tekonsha Voyager. This is where our plug gets plugged into our Tekonsha.
This is simply so we can get all of our correct functions to the brake controller.This harness is going to work with Tekonsha and Draw-Tite brake controllers. For our application, like I said, we're using it for the Tekonsha Voyager. And in terms of installation, getting our harness installed really is not that bad. The hardest part is going to be running our wiring and just working in a tight space. With that being said, I'll show you how to get it installed now.
To start installation, we're going to be working in the floorboard on the driver's side. And now with our wire ran in from our 7-way, we're going to use the excess wire and run it back out to our battery for a connection to the battery for our pigtail harness.Now, what I did was, I just cut this white wire and put some tape on the wire from the brakes on the 7-way to mark our wire. I taped it to a long drill bit and I'm just going to push that right back through our hole in the firewall. I just went ahead and pulled a ground wire through the hole in our firewall. I used green since we're already using two white wires, just to make it a lot more simple.
And again, this is going to be our blue wire that connects to our pigtail harness. This is going to be our power wire and our ground. Looking at our pigtail harness, our black wire's going to be power, our red wire is going to go to our stoplight switch. Our white wire is going to be our ground and our blue wire is going to connect to the blue wire from our 7-way.And start with our ground wire. We'll simply strip that back and we can add a butt connector.
And I do like to leave everything kind of loose down here, that way it's easier to tuck up and hide. And then if we ever have to come back and make any adjustments, there's going to be a lot more room to work. And that's really nice when we are working underneath the dash. We can now add our white wire to our butt connector with our green wire. We'll crimp that down. Now I want to grab our power wire and strip it back. And for this one, we will be adding a yellow butt connector since our wires are pretty big.And we'll be grabbing the black wire from our harness and tapping that into here or adding it to our butt connector, I should say. If you remember, we added our black tape to this white wire to tell us which one was our blue wire. We can now remove that tape. Now with our tape removed, you can strip it back. Then you can trim a little bit of that off. I just wanted to get a good clean cut, now twist this. We're going to be adding a yellow butt connector to this, as well. We'll add our blue wire to the other side and crimp that down.Our next step is to tap into our stoplight signal. We need to remove this plug. We're going to push in on this tab and we're going to pull out. This part can be tough, just because it's tight. So push in, then pull out. And if you're having trouble, you can grab a small flat blade screwdriver, then push in on that connector and pull out. Just like that. Now we want to turn back our sheathing. You can use a small utility knife or a pocket knife, anything you have available. You just want to be careful not to cut any of the wires inside of our loom. Now that our wirings stripped back, we can pull our electrical tape off of our wires, just like so.I'm going to come back and just cut or wire them off. To make our connection to our stoplight signal, we're going to use a quick connect and a spade connector. All we're going to do is crimp this onto the blue wire from our switch and then slide this spade connector into the backside here. So to start, we'll take our spade connector and add it to our red wire and we'll crimp that down, just like so. Now we can move to our brake light cycle.Like I said, we're going to be using this blue wire. All we're going to do is take our quick splice, slide it over that. We want to get our wire in this little U-shape of our connector. So we'll slide it over, just like so and I'll take a pair of pliers and compress that down. Just like so and we can grab that spade connector and just insert it right here in the back. Now you just want to plug back in your switch the same way we took it out.As far as getting our pigtail harness installed, that's all good and done. Now we just want to clean it up and then we can make our connections to the battery. Now we're going to locate a good spot to ground our wire. Now right down here would be a pretty good spot, it's out of the way, it's going to be easy to get our self tapping screw in there. All we want to do is pull our wire out and we will cut our wire and toss our extra wire to the side. Now we're going to strip it back. I'm going to strip it back pretty far and then double it over just since we do have a bigger ring terminal.And now grab our ring terminal provided. We're just going to crimp that down. Can now grab our provided self-tapper, just lower down into the position and now we can run our tapper into our fender. Just like that, our wires nice and out of the way. We actually are going to have to run our ground in a different spot. The sheet metal there, where we put it the first time, wasn't really thick enough to hold it solid. So what we're going to do is put it on the brake pedal arm. There's a 12 millimeter nut on the side. You're probably not going to be able to see it with the camera but it's right there on the side of our brake pedal.So we're just going to add a ring terminal, crimp it down and slide our ring terminal over that post on our brake pedal. Now I want to grab our 30 amp circuit breaker. We're going to mount it right here above our other one. And now I want you to run our white power wire over. We're just going to pull that behind our inaudible 00:08:10 here, around like so. We'll measure it off and we'll cut back our wire. Well I had one of our smaller ring terminals, now we can crimp it down, just like that. Now what we want to do is add it to this silver post on our circuit breaker. So we'll remove our nut and we'll just slide this over. Do a re-install on that. I just want to get this hand tight for now.Now we want to grab that extra wire that we cut off with our end stripped back. We're going to add a small ring terminal. We can now crimp it down. Now this is going to go on the copper post of our circuit breaker. Good way to remember it, is copper to battery and then silver is before the circuit breaker or from our harness. We'll slide that on and then add our nut. We can now come back with a 3/8 socket and just tighten down our hardware. Now you don't want to put a ton of torque on this. You just want to get it nice and snug because we don't want to break our circuit breaker. Right there should be perfect. Yeah, same thing for other bolt.Now we just want to route our white wire to the battery. I'm going to zip tie it to some factory wiring down here, just to help keep it out of the way. Now I just want to take our wire and measure it off to the battery. We're going to cut it right about here. I'm going to start back at this end. We can grab one of our ring terminals provided, that's the way you spin that and we'll crimp that down. Now we want to remove the 12 millimeter socket located right there on top of our battery. If you have any other wires on there, you want to make sure to hold on to them so they don't drop. We can add our new terminal and then re-install our nut. Just like that.Now I just want to grab our battery cover. We're going to trim it back a little bit, just so all of our wires fit underneath of it. As far as installing our pigtail harness for our brake controller, we're completely done with that. I do need to go back and zip tie up some wiring but other than that, it is installed. So now we're going to move on to our brake controller and you can follow along with us. Now to get our brake controller installed, you want to grab our bracket and our operating unit. Now this is probably the best location to mount ours. So we're going to take our bracket and slide it over the top and just try to get an idea of where it's going to go.All right there, it's pretty good. So we'll lower down our Tekonsha, hold that in place and then come back with our provided screws and screw it down. I don't want to tighten it down all the way yet because we still want some movability with it. That way, we can get it nice and level. Right there looks pretty good. So we can add our screw to the other side. And we can come back and tighten this one down. Nice and secure. Now we're going to grab our Tekonsha, we're going to line up the holes on the side with a hole in the side of our bracket. We're going to get it as close to the dash as possible, right there looks pretty good. Then we can add our hardware.Now this other side is going to be pretty tight. So we're going to use a low clearance screwdriver to get our hardware installed. Now with both sides tightened down, we can snug up the center. Using a 1/4-inch wrench, it's going to be a little bit easier to get in behind our Tekonsha and tighten down our hardware. And I don't want to over tighten this because we are screwing it into plastic, we're almost there. Come back and check this one, tighten it up a little bit more. Now we're good, it's nice and secure. Now I just want to grab our pigtail and plug it in until you hear it click.Now, we're just going to clean up our wiring, so they aren't hanging down on our feet. Now we have it hooked up to our tester and we can make sure our brakes are working. As you can see, when I'm pushing the brake in the vehicle, it's applying the brakes to our tester box, at which in terms, is our trailer. With our brake controller hooked up and working, we know we're ready to hit the road. That's going to do it for our look at and installation of Tekonsha's replacement brake controller plug on our 2015 Toyota Sienna.
Average Customer Rating: 4.8 out of 5 stars (689 Customer Reviews)
Purchased a Teckonsha Voyager brake controller and the ETBC7 install kit.
The instruction an video were very clear and easy to follow. Installed on a 2007 Ford Ranger Sport. Tech support was also very helpful on the one question I did have.
Class iii Draw Tite trailer hitch:
This part was quick and easy to order and I received it sooner than expected. My mechanic said the installation was easily accomplished and looks great on my car. I would not hesitate to order from etrailer again!
Griff M.
6/21/2023
The product has worked well. I have had no problems with it.
Purchased this as part of all parts required to convert 1996 Jayco over to electric brakes. Very happy with results. Surprised to see after winter in storage that the battery supply still shows full charge.
The drawtite hitch and trailer wiring harness fit great. Instructions were clear and concise. Installation was a breeze. I am ready to tow my little trailer now. As soon as I get the brake controller installed, I will be ready for my big trailer.
As always, etrailer delivers. Part was on time and a perfect match for the brake controller. What you don't get from Amazon is the technical support on how to install or use the equipment purchased from etrailer. That's why I keep coming back!
I installed the Curt gooseneck on my 1993 GMC 2 Wheel Dr. 2500 truck. All the components have tight tolerances. It took me eight hours. With a socket and the wrench. Laying on my back. I did have to cut the wheel well lip about 3/8 of an inch off because I could not get that front angle bar to slide in without hitting it, no way around it unless you lift the bed up and I wasn’t going to do that!!. You have to cut it.instructions do not state that. I’m very happy with the Hitch, it is definitely stout! I did have to make a notch on the outside brackets to go over my airbag bolt. I also had to remove the support bracket on the inside of the frame for the airbag and the crossmember for the spare tire to get the front angled bar in.
If your truck comes with the tow haul package.... this item is literally plug and play. I had it wired up and all mounted inside of thirty minutes. It's literally 4 wires and the stock system wires are labeled along with the brake contoller. I haven't tested it yet but so far I am thoroughly impressed!
Perfectly wired directly to existing wiring that I had for the previous brake controller I replaced with the, Draw Tite I Command. This will make it a lot easier should I choose to upgrade the unit in the future.
Fantastic customer service from Joshua as well.
Wiring harness I used to connect into the trailer brake control circuit. Requires pulling some inside trim in the drivers footwell area to access my 2022 Chevy Colorado's wires. Follow the intructions or better yet go onto YouTube for video on what goes where.
Products are what your order, plain and simple. Caller operators are very helpful.
Works great. FYI YOU HAVE TO RUN A BRAKE WIRE FROM THE CONTROLLER TO YOUR LIGHT PLUG . For it to work properly.
My truck was stolen and wrecked. I was able to retrieve the Tekonsha Brake controller from under the Dash board before it was hauled to the salvage yard, but not the wire harness. I was ale to order a replacement harness from eTrailer and reinstall the controller in my new truck. I had no problems at all. Thank you eTrailer for the great support.
Don
3/9/2022
Still works perfectly after one year. Actually, I been using this Controller for well over a year. I just reinstalled it in my new truck a year ago.
The controller is on 24/ 7.I wish it turned on with the truck but this is more of a criticism of the truck not the controller I added a toggle switch so I can turn it off when I will not be using the trailer for a long spell.
One year later I'm extremely pleased with this purchase. I often chuckle when I see stock hitches and the whole thing is visible while mine is neatly tucked under with everything hidden except for the 2" receiver. 10/10 have recommended etrailer on many occasions to friends and family for their service and know-how. Since installing my hitch I towed a pop up camper 1500+kms and do frequent trips to the dump or my local dirt and gravel yard for supplies. Love it!
Universal Installation Kit for Trailer Brake Controller - 7-Way RV and 4-Way Flat, Item # ETBC7
I installed this 7-pin plug kit on my 2008 Jeep JKU to add power and trailer brake control.
I also purchased :
Draw-Tite I-Command Trailer Brake Controller Item # 5535
and
Curt No-Drill Bracket Item # C57202
along with a little extra wire, just in case.
The kit quality was great. It shipped with everything I needed, sans the controller and bracket above. I used a cordless drill, a quarter inch drive socket set, screwdrivers, wire cutter/crimper, pliers, black electrical tape, half inch loom (plastic flexible conduit) and quite a few extra zip-ties I had laying around. I needed the Curt bracket to mount the 7-pin plug farther away from the muffler that runs parallel to the bumper in Wranglers.
I first ran the grey jacketed wire from the rear bumper all the way to the engine compartment. This was the hard part for me since I'm old and a little more round than I'd like. I didn't need to raise the jeep since it already has a 2 1/2 inch lift. I zip-tied the jacketed wire to the frame and brake lines until I found a spot in the frame I could run it through. I ran it out of the frame at the rear of the left front wheel well and up into the engine compartment. There is a (very handy) rubber plug in the firewall just to the left (outboard) side of the brake vacuum booster. I made a small slit in the rubber plug. I removed the outer jacket from the wire at that spot and fed the white (future brake controller wire) into the cabin of the jeep. I ran the black wire, in a wire loom/conduit across the top of the firewall to the battery. I had enough extra wire to run the brake controller power and ground wire from the battery, across the top of the firewall in the same conduit, and into the cabin through the same rubber plug/grommet. I drilled small pilot holes to mount the two circuit breakers. I then connected the wires at the 7-pin plug at the rear bumper. I again made a pilot hole and then mounted the ground wire with the self-tapping screw provided in the kit.
Here I'd like to mention, I would have been happier with heat-shrink connectors. I could have gone to town and bought some, or I could have soldered the connections. Instead, I just used the provided connectors and a LOT of black tape. If I have any corrosion issues later I will replace the connectors provided in the kit.
I wired and mounted the brake controller. This would have been super easy if I could fit under the dash. I dislike using the little blue inline wire connectors (self stripping connectors) but it was a godsend when working one-handed under the dash. I mounted the controller bracket and covered most of the exposed wiring with black tape for aesthetics.
If I was 20 or 30 years younger, I would have had this whole kit installed in about 1 1/2 hours. I am very happy with the quality of the materials. Many others have already noted the bracket is not quite perfect where it is designed for the four wire plug to slip in. The four wire plug had moved slightly on my 20 minute drive to work and would likely have fallen out if I went much further. I may put a wrap of electrical tape around the plug to tighten up the fit. Otherwise I will see if a zip-tie or a drop of superglue will hold the four wire plug in place. I was a wee bit skeptical about the sturdiness of the no-drill bracket as it's held in place by what looks like a hose clamp. I am happy to report, the clamp is heavy duty and well made. The no-drill bracket with the 7-pin and 4-pin receptacles are very sturdy and secure. The instructional videos on etrailer's website made the job easy to understand.
If I had this job to do over again, I would definitely use the same products from etrailer.
Not even 2 years after install all rusty. Electric brake pin broke due to rust.
Impossible To remove 4 bolt holding connector due To rust. I do not recommend
These guys are great they had the installation kit it came with everything you need and even had a video for my specific vehicle to install the brake controller and wire in a 7 pin trailer plug
If you don’t have factory brake controller the etbc7 is an amazing kit they have comes with everything I mean everything
Tim
6/26/2021
Everything has been excellent e trail has the right products and they fit just like they say
Working as expected.
Jeff
8/21/2023
Still working just fine.
Never used it—sold it.
Works as intended, but the plug on the back of the controller is a loose connection. Sometimes I would go to brake and find that I had no trailer brakes because the controller lost power. After a wiggle it would start to work again. I was able to shave the Molex plug a bit and now I don't have any problems with it.
Sierra K.
7/19/2021
Thank you for your review. I have not heard of that problem. I would have used some electrical tape.
The service you receive from etrailer is top notch. This brake controller has worked very well. I actually swap it between two of our vehicles. Just unplug it from one and plug it into the other.
Bill D.
8/15/2021
Very well. The service etrailer provides is the highest Ive ever experienced. They are just super to work with. Ive used them time & time again. I recommend them to everyone looking for anything they carry.
Both the 2017 & 2018 Winnebago Forza class A motorhomes DO have in place (under dash) connections for trailer brake controllers, unlike as depicted on your website as needing an additional part (wiring and 4 prong plug), although it is somewhat difficult to find. Attached to the connection socket is an unwired plug (with blue "lips" in somewhat blurry photo). One could either cut and splice the 12" plug-in harness (#20127) into the vehicle connections, or as I did, use solderless socket connections. To determine what wires go where, use an ohmmeter. You will find two b+ wires (use either one) a ground connection, a brake signal wire(use DC voltmeter and press on brake pedal (engine on in diesel pusher) to get reading, and a to trailer wire (bottom left corner when two b+ and ground wire are on right side of socket).
Exactly what I was looking for and needed ! It was delivered very quick . Actually I just ordered a complete wiring harness from you tonight . Your service and follow up is great
Quality product . Perfect for job I was doing
Chad
6/6/2023
Everything is great
If you are starting from scratch to install a brake controller and a 7-Way connector, you would want the Brake Controller 7-and 4-Way Installation Kit (ETBC7). This kit contains all the necessary parts to connect to the 4-Way connector mentioned above, and to wire all the way to the front of the vehicle and connect to the brake controller. I already had a Tekonsha Primus brake controller from another vehicle, so all I needed for that was the Brake Control Plug-in Harness (#20127).
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David
11/8/2020
I have been completely satisfied with this item. It has operated as advertised an has had no problems.