Class III Trailer Hitch Recommendation for 2017 Subaru Outback 3.6R
Question:
My only concern was several notes that a stabilizer strap was required for bike rack or hitch rack use. I would prefer not to purchase or have the need for any accessories, If this has been modified, great, if not, what would be the best alternative hitch?
asked by: Roy V
Expert Reply:
For a Class III hitch, I'll typically recommend the Curt product because they do a slightly nicer job on their powder coat finish than Draw-Tite does.
Curt offers both a traditionally styled Class III hitch, part # C13206 which would have the entire hitch visible from the rear and a mostly-concealed hitch, part # C13410 which would have the crossbar of the hitch concealed behind the bumper with the only visible portion of the hitch being the receiver tube and the safety chain hoops.
The concealed version requires no drilling, is a bit more expensive and is more involved to install, but if you don't care for the appearance of a hitch, then the # C13410 concealed version would best suit you. If the visibility of the hitch doesn't bother you in the least, use the # C13206. The more exposed hitch would require some drilling.
If you should decide to tow a trailer in the future, you'll also need a trailer wiring harness like # 118467, a ball mount like # D-4, Hitch Pin and Clip, # PC3, and # 19260 for a 1-7/8 or # 63845 for a 2 inch trailer ball.
I've linked to install videos for both hitches, as well as to an install video for the wiring harness should you decide you need it.

Products Referenced in This Question
T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector
- Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring
- Trailer Hitch Wiring
- Powered Converter
- Custom Fit
- 4 Flat
- Tekonsha
more information >
Curt Cam Buckle Stabilizing Strap for Hitch-Mounted Accessories - 61" x 1" - Qty 1
- Accessories and Parts
- Hitch Bike Racks
- Hitch Cargo Carrier
- Tie Down Straps
- CURT
more information >
1-7/8" Hitch Ball - 1" Diameter x 2-1/8" Long Shank - Chrome - 2,000 lbs
- Trailer Hitch Ball
- Trailer Hitch Ball
- Standard Ball
- Chrome-Plated Steel
- 1-7/8 Inch Diameter Ball
- 2-1/8 Inch Shank Length
- 1 Inch Diameter Shank
- 2000 lbs GTW
- Class III
- Draw-Tite
more information >
2" Hitch Ball - 1" Diameter x 2-1/8" Long Shank - Chrome - 7,500 lbs
- Trailer Hitch Ball
- Trailer Hitch Ball
- Standard Ball
- Chrome-Plated Steel
- 2 Inch Diameter Ball
- 2-1/8 Inch Shank Length
- 1 Inch Diameter Shank
- 7500 lbs GTW
- Class III
- Tow Ready
more information >
Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"
- Trailer Hitch
- Custom Fit Hitch
- Class III
- 600 lbs TW
- 4000 lbs GTW
- 2 Inch Hitch
- Visible Cross Tube
- CURT
more information >
Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"
- Trailer Hitch
- Custom Fit Hitch
- Class III
- 600 lbs TW
- 4000 lbs GTW
- 2 Inch Hitch
- Concealed Cross Tube
- CURT
more information >
Curt Ball Mount for 2" Hitches - 3/4" Rise, 2" Drop - 10-1/4" Long - 7,500 lbs
- Trailer Hitch Ball Mount
- Fixed Ball Mount
- No Ball
- Steel Shank - Gloss Black
- Drop - 2 Inch
- Rise - 1 Inch
- Fits 2 Inch Hitch
- 7500 lbs GTW
- CURT
more information >
Product Page this Question was Asked From
Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class II - 1-1/4"
- Trailer Hitch
- Custom Fit Hitch
- Class II
- 300 lbs TW
- 3500 lbs GTW
- 1-1/4 Inch Hitch
- Visible Cross Tube
- Draw-Tite
more information >
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Roy V.
5/3/2021
My only concern was several notes that a stabilizer strap was required for bike rack or hitch rack use. I would prefer not to purchase or have the need for any accessories, If this has been modified, great, if not, what would be the best alternative hitch?