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Curt Trailer Hitch Installation - 2019 Subaru Outback Wagon

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How to Install the Curt Trailer Hitch on a 2019 Subaru Outback Wagon


Hi there Subaru owners. Today we're gonna be installing Curts class three trailer hitch receiver on our 2019 Subaru Outback wagon. Now with your new hitch installed, you'll be the envy of the trail head. As you're taking your bikes off of your bike rack at the back while everybody's fiddling around in their trunk.You're only gonna be able to see the receiver here at the back as the cross tube's completely hidden behind the bumper. It's a class three two inch by two inch receiver, so it's gonna be great for all of your towing needs. Whether you're hauling a trailer or just a bike rack or cargo carrier.

It uses a 5/8ths inch hitch pin and clip. Now one doesn't come with the hitch but you can pick one up here at etrailer.com.It also utilizes hoop style safety chain loops which has a very large opening, so it should accommodate just about every shape and style of safety chain. It features a 600 pound tongue weight, that's the force going down on top of the receiver. And a 4000 pound gross towing capacity, that's how much it can pull behind it. You do wanna verify in your vehicles owners manual to ensure you don't exceed any of it's towing capacities.Now I've got some measurements for you to help you when deciding on accessories.

From the ground to the top inside of the receiver tube it's gonna measure about 15 inches. This is important when determining if you need to drop, rise, or inaudible 00:01:13 any of your accessories. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the center of the rear bumper it measures about three inches. This is important when determining if any of your folding accessories can be placed in the upright storage position without contacting the bumper.We'll begin our installation at the back of the vehicle by opening our lift gate and then removing both the passenger and drivers side tail light assemblies. Remove the Phillips head screws that are located in each assembly.

They're just gonna pop out and then it's actually a push pin that you can pull out afterwards. Now we can remove the plastic trim piece that is located on the side of our tail light assembly and there are two bolts we're gonna remove behind that panel. We'll use a 10 millimeter socket to remove those. You could also use a large Phillips head screwdriver.We can now pull our tail light assembly out. You wanna pull rearward and it'll just pop out.

We can disconnect the electrical connectors by pressing in on the release tab and then pulling outward. And then there's two bulb sockets, you'll just wanna twist those counter clockwise and pull those out. We're gonna repeat this same procedure on the other side to remove our other tail light assembly. Now we can continue removing our bumper. On each side you're gonna have a small tab you're gonna pop out to reveal a bolt below. We're gonna remove that with the same 10 millimeter socket or large Philips screwdriver. We're gonna do that on the other side as well.Now we're inside of our fender wells here. We're gonna need to remove the screws and push pins that are along the edge here. And if you have a mud flap on it like we do there's a pin a little bit further inside behind the tire that's gonna have to come out as well. To remove the pushpin you'll wanna use a flat bladed screwdriver to get behind the center piece, pry it out, and then you can just pull that pin out. We'll do that with all the remaining pins. Here's the pin on the inside if you have mudflaps installed on your vehicle. There's one pin that's different towards the top. To remove this one you'll push in the center with a screwdriver and then the rest of the pin can be popped out with a trim panel tool or a flat bladed screwdriver. There's also two screws that we'll need to remove with a Philips head screwdriver. You may need to have a bit with a small ratchet to get between the tire and your inner fender here. Once you've removed all the hardware on this side you're gonna do the exact same thing on the other side. You can set your mudflap aside, we'll be reinstalling it later.We're now underneath the vehicle. Now we are using a lift here. We know you're gonna be in your garage at home, but this is gonna be plenty simple to do just laying down underneath. We just need to remove the push pins that go on the outer perimeter underneath. These are gonna work just like the other ones. You'll wanna pop out the center and then you can remove the entire pin. You'll have a total of two on each side and three in the center.Now that all the fasteners have been removed, we can start pulling our bumper beam off. You're gonna start on one side and work on the edge pulling it outward. Once you get one side released, go to the other side and do the same thing. And now you can work it off just pull rearward. You're gonna have to get it in just the right spot to pop free. And now we can come towards the center and pull it away. Now you don't wanna go all the way off until you check for electrical connectors underneath and we have some here on our drivers side that we're gonna need to remove. We'll follow it over to our connector here. Disconnect it and now we can set our bumper aside where it won't get damaged. Now you can remove the foam guard on your bumper beam and this'll expose the bolts behind it here.We can now use a 14 millimeter socket to remove all the nuts holding on our bumper beam. They'll be four on each side. You'll likely need an extension in order to reach all of these. If you don't have an extension you can use a short socket with a ratchet to get in there as well. I like to leave the last one on one side on just to make sure the bumper beam doesn't fall off when I'm taking off the other side. I just kinda leave it a couple threads on there. And now we can take our bumper beam off and set it aside. You can now set your hitch into place, it's gonna slide over the studs where your bumper beam used to be. The bumper beam is gonna clamp the hitch into place. And it will be held there using the factory hardware. So we're just gonna reinstall those nuts now. And we can now tighten and torque all of our hardware to the specifications found in our instructions.Now before we can reinstall our bumper, we're gonna need to cut it out per our instructions. To do this you can use a pair of tin snips or a rotary cutting tool. And now we can reinstall our inaudible 00:07:38. Make sure you plug in your electrical connections before putting it in place and also make sure that you put the foam pad under your bumper beam. It kinda wants to fall off, so you kinda gotta make sure you hold it there while you're putting this on. And this'll just snap back into place and then you can reinstall all your fasteners that hold it on. Make sure you don't pinch your tail light wiring when you're reinstalling it. And now with all of our fasteners installed and our tail light assemblies reinstalled as well, your installation is complete of Curts class three two inch trailer hitch receiver on our 2019 Subaru Outback wagon.


Questions and Comments about this Video


Sal
What is the thickness of the steel plate that’s mounts over the original 4 bumper bolts. And how does the bumper fit back if you added the trailer hitch to the bumper mounts, is there a gap between the plastic bumper and the steel bumper that bolts to the car. Sort of like a floating bumper. And do you sell a seven pin plug with taht hitch ?
Etrailer Expert
Reply from David B.

Hey Sal, what year is your Subaru? I'll have the plate measured so I can get a solid answer for you. To be honest though that isn't a common question lol. No one has ever had an issue of not having enough room for the install. These hitches are design for specific models and after the install you will only see the receiver tube. If you need a 7 way for towing you're going to need a brake controller too. I can get you what you need after I find out the exact y/m/m of your vehicle.

Reply from Sal

@DavidB it's a 2019 outback. im not an aoto body guy but im guessing there might be small gap between the outer plastic bumper and the steel inner one thats removed for then trailer hitch bracket, im guessing around 5/16"think maybe 1/4". can you please give price for both a 7 pin and a 4 pin outlet. thanks sal

Etrailer Expert
Reply from David B.

If you need a 4 way I would go with this # 118467 . If you need a 7 way you will need to get # 118467 and # ETBC7 . Also have you thought about this hitch receiver # 75673 it mounts in a different location and is "easier" to install. It has the same specs.

Reply from Sal

@DavidB how can i view a image of part # 75673 ??

Etrailer Expert
Reply from David B.

You should just be able to click this link-=> # 75673 <=-it will take you there. If that doesn't work I'll also add another link to it below.

Reply from Sal

@DavidB i like the one that goes behind the bumper. it looks easier to install and more clearance underneath. did you ever find out the thickness of the plate for the one that mounts behind the bumper ?

Etrailer Expert
Reply from David B.

In all actuality the Curt will take about 1.5-2 hours for a novice to install and the Draw-tite will take about an hour. The plate will be 2/16s to 3/16s of an inch.

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