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Curt Powered Tail Light Converter Installation - 2023 Kia Telluride

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How to Install the Curt Powered Tail Light Converter on a 2023 Kia Telluride

Hello neighbors, it's Brad here at etrailer. And today, we're taking a look and installing the Curt Universal 4-Pole Trailer Wiring Harness on a 2023 Kia Telluride. Now, adding 4-Pole trailer wiring to any vehicle that you plan on towing or even if you have some accessories that may light up with your light functions, this is gonna be required. And this is gonna give you not only your running lights, your turn signals, but also your brake lights. So that's gonna keep you safe and legal by letting the people behind you know what you're intending to do. Now as far as peace of mind too, this is gonna be module protected as well as has an inline fuse.

So if you ever have any backfeed from your trailer, it's not gonna cause any harm to your factory electronics. So as far as the installation, let's take a look at it. You can go step by step and that way you can get your 4-Pole installed on your Telluride. To begin our installation, we are gonna need to remove both of the taillights. And that's gonna be accomplished, there's this plastic panel here, we do need to pop that off to get to our hardware.

And on this edge here right at the taillight, you're gonna see there's a little slot that allows you to get a small flathead in there. So that's kind of where the clips live. Best thing is just kind of pry back and you'll get one of those there. And then as you work your way down, you can kind of just press it in. If you need to, you can kind of just give it a little nudge here with the screwdriver.

But this panel should come out fairly easily. Just take your time here. And then we could set that aside. And that's gonna give us access to our three 10-millimeter bolts that we're gonna take out. Now, you can also use a Phillips head screwdriver to get these out.

Now, throughout this process, you're gonna wanna make sure you hold on to all your hardware. That way, reinstallation is a lot easier. So, keep it in a nice organized spot. Now to get the taillight to pop out, a lot of times, you can kind of just wiggle it back and forth. There's gonna be some tabs that go into rubber and so sometimes those kind of hold into there. So if you need to, you can use the plastic trim tool to just pry straight out and that should help loosen it. There's gonna be a few of them. They've got two of 'em there, so kind of where your pry points are, just lightly pull on that. And that's gonna give us access to our wires, which we are gonna tie into to get our 4-Pole of work. So for now, I'm gonna just go ahead and push on the tab here. That way, we can separate our taillight, making it a little bit easier to work with. You can peel back some of this electrical tape and then there's gonna be this sheathing here which I'm gonna be using. I just have some small cutters here. Just take your time. You don't obviously wanna cut the wires, so just work your way here. Now, because this is a universal kit, this is gonna need to be extended. And I think that's gonna be the best way to do this. So you are gonna need to pick up a little bit of extra wire and maybe some butt connectors that are heat shrink, and that way, you can extend these wires up. So these are gonna be going on our driver's side. This is gonna give us our running light and our turn signal. So I'm gonna be using some corresponding colored wires just to make sure that they match up, but if not, just make sure you're keeping track of which ones are which and that way you can make your connections. Now, with this kit, Kia has changed the wiring here so there is no direct plug and play at this point. So, this is gonna be the best way to do it. And if you've never used quick splices before, they're pretty easy to use so don't let that scare you off. But what I'm gonna do is grab my extra wire that I have and I'm gonna pass that down as our module's gonna kind of live underneath the rear fascia. We're gonna be tying into two of these wires. The green, I've gone ahead and tested that. That's gonna be for our running lights. So our brown normally corresponds with that. So I'm gonna use my quick splice to connect that now. And I'm gonna go a little bit further back. That way, we're not right against the plug here. And the way these work, you're gonna just feed the wires in through these. Now, one side does look like it's capped, so I normally just put your new wire there. And your other one, you're gonna just kind of slip into here. The main thing that you're looking for is that it stays in this position. That way, when this metal clip goes down, it bites into it well. So I'm gonna slide this up real quick and make sure everything's good there. And at this point, you can take a set of pliers and just crimp that down and that metal's gonna bite into those wires. And that way, you can still get that electrical function and it's gonna tie into it. So with that, make sure that metal clip is all the way flush so it has a good bite. And then from there, we'll just clip this over. And that's one down. Now, our yellow is gonna be our stop light as well as our turn signal on the left. So we're gonna take our yellow wire and it's going to go with the yellow wire, so pretty easy there. So now, I'm gonna take my new wires and pass them down through this gap. And that way, they get to the bottom so we can make our attachment to our harness. Now, sometimes this can be a tricky with these two. You can tape 'em together to make it a little bit easier. What I do is kind of a fish wire technique as we call it. And I'm using an airline tube to just pass this down. You can kind of use whatever you have, but this makes it easy to pass it all the way down. I'll just take the ends of my wires here, tape it up to my pole wire, and we can now pull these through. So I've gone ahead and kind of just taped these up. Now, I can go ahead, plug our taillight back in, and then slide this back. To get our module mounted up and the rest of our connections made, we're gonna take this panel down and there's just gonna be push pins along here. And to get those off, you just pry on the center. That center part comes out. You should be able to get the whole one out. Once you have all three taken out, there are some plastic nuts up here. You can kind of just reach up there and spin 'em with your hand generally. You can also put a socket on 'em. Or honestly you can just kind of pull on them lightly and they should come off fairly easily. But go ahead, get this panel taken down. And again, this is gonna give us a lot more room here to work. Now, we're gonna get the module mounted up and then we can make all our connections. It does come with a double-sided foam tape and you can stick it on any of these flat surfaces here. Just make sure they're cleaned off a little bit so it can stick to it. Other options, you can use a self-tapper to mount this up. There's some studs, you can put a nut on there. I'm just gonna go ahead and zip tie this up to our factory wire loom that we have here as it does live behind that panel, so this is gonna be a nice spot for it. It's gonna stay protected and it's gonna hold up to this. So we'll go ahead get this zip tied on. I'm gonna throw one more around our wire back here. So now, let's start making our connections. We'll start here with the brown and yellow that's coming off the module. And here, we have our wires pulled down. And we're just going to cut these just to kind of get some of the excess that we have here. And then I'm gonna strip back these ends. Now, it does come with butt connectors in the kit and it is protected behind that panel once it's back, but I tend to use heat shrink butt connectors. We have those available here at etrailer. They're really nice 'cause once you crimp 'em down, you can heat 'em up and they're gonna seal up making a watertight connection. So just a little added protection. It's up to you. We'll turn our attention to our red and white wire and the white is gonna be a ground. It already has a ring terminal attached. And the red, because we're only using the two wires up there and this is a universal kit, we're actually gonna make this a ground as well. So a few different options here. There is a self-tapping screw that you could tie this in. And because we're tying this into the ground, you could use the quick splice included in the kit. I'm gonna be using a ring terminal here and just kind of tie 'em into one. Now, don't use the larger ring terminal that's included in the kit 'cause you'll need that to tie onto your positive battery posts. So what I'll do here, I'm just gonna cut this extra, strip this back. And as far as grounding goes, there are a few studs here. Again, you could probably grab some extra nuts for hardware to tighten that down and that'd work fine, but a self tapper into pretty much any of this raw metal under here, as long as you're not hitting wires, that's gonna ground it properly. And this kind of open area here, this is gonna have quite a bit of metal built up so it can get a little bit tricky to drill through that. You can use a pilot hole. Really, you can use any of this bottom portion. Just be careful. You wanna check up top to make sure that you're not gonna run into anything there. I think right here is gonna work well for me, so I'll go ahead and get this self tapper run through. Now that we have that grounded, we're gonna go ahead and route our green wire as well as our 4-Pole over. Now, the green wire, we're gonna be using that same fish wire technique to get that wire up. And your 4-Pole, figure out exactly where you want it on your hitch and just kind of zip tie it up to that. And we're gonna be using our dust cap to attach it to our safety chain loop. You can also pick up 4-Pole brackets that we have available here that give you a nice solid mounting point. It's kind of up to you. So I'll get this routed over and show you how it looks. Gone ahead and pulled up our green wire and that's gonna tie in with our quick splice to the gray and black. And that's gonna give us our stop and turn signal on our passenger side. So I'll take this up and then we'll go head back underneath and I'll show you the path that I took. Now, we'll backtrack here. We have our green wire and we'll show you how we got it back to the module. I went kind of over the bumper support here and then ended up using the hitch just with a series of zip ties. I went ahead and zip tied that up as well as our 4-Pole and just kind of ran over here. Same thing, I fed it up and over and made our way back here. So now that we have everything pretty much in place, all we have left is our power wire. And so we're gonna grab that black spool of wire that comes in the kit and I'm gonna use a heat shrink butt connector to attach this, and then we can start running it to the battery. Now is a good time if you wanna clean up all your wires, just kind of bundle those, any excess slack, and get those zip tied up nice and clean. And now, we can trace our power wire. So I follow some of the factory wire loom here and I tried to route things over any spots that might just hold this up and support it. And I just kinda went over the fuel tank and made my way to our underbody panel. Now at this point, I went on this side just 'cause I have a lift and we have the 10 millimeters as well as some plastic screws like we saw on that access panel back there. And now, you can do this on the outside of your vehicle too on this section. The main thing is is pull those out and then you run the wire in between it. And once you put this back, it's gonna hold it in place. It's a nice protected place to run your wires so you get a nice run of that. And you're gonna make your way up to the tunnel here. Now, we do need to pass another fish wire through by our battery, which is gonna be on the driver's side. And it's pretty open here which is nice. Again, just kind of keep it to where it's not gonna get caught in the drive shaft, any suspension, or any of the steering. So from here, I just taped this up and I'm gonna pull that slack up and then we can start making connections in the engine bay. I'm gonna pull up my extra wire here. Now, we obviously have some extra here and we're also gonna be putting our fuse holder in place, so you can run this a bunch of different ways. Just try to find a nice clean fashion that it's not gonna be just kind of all around the engine bay. So I'll cut our fuse holder here and this is gonna kind of help determine where I need to cut my wire. I'm gonna put a ring terminal on one side and this is the one supplied in the kit. I'm gonna crimp this down. Now, real important, make sure you don't have the fuse in here yet until we're completely all hooked up. We don't want power going through this. And we'll just pop this cap off here and that's gonna give us access to one of the spots. Honestly, any of these work. I try to stray away from these ones as they tighten on the terminal. So either one of these are gonna be a good option to be able to mount up our ring terminal and it should be a 10 millimeter. I'm gonna just route my fuse holder over here and we can tighten this back down. Now, there is gonna be a small notch here. I don't know if we can quite get our cap to go back on. If you need to, you can put a small little notch. That way, it still closes down. It's kind up to you. Now, I can wrap my power wire how I want to be able to connect to our fuse holder. So I'm gonna kind of wrap it around our fuse panel here just to kind of keep it nice and tidy. And that's gonna connect over to our fuse holder so I can cut off the excess here. And then we'll start stripping these back. We can go ahead and get our fuse in the fuse holder, cap this up, and then I'm just gonna clean up some of my wires with zip ties in here. And then we'll head to the back and test to make sure that it's working. So to test our wiring, we are gonna be using 4-Pole tester. And that's gonna be nice because it keeps it specific to the vehicle. That way if you have any faulty wiring on your trailer, it's not gonna give you a false negative. But if you don't have a 4-Pole tester, the best way to do it is hooking up to the trailer that you're gonna be using and run through the light sequence, and check the lights on the trailer, or have someone take a look at those while you do that. And that way, you know they're all working properly. Now, the light sequence you're gonna wanna follow is going to be your running lights, your left turn signal, your right turn signal, and then finally your brakes. And that was a look and installation of the Curt Universal Trailer Wiring Harness for a 4-Pole on a 2023 Kia Telluride.

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