For years, this UFP-style surge brake actuator has been the gold standard for boat trailers. Its bolt-on, low-profile design looks sleek on your trailer, and it comes with both electric and manual reverse lockouts. Made in the USA.
Features:
Specs:
Tech Tip: If you really just need to replace the inner member of your old actuator and you're confident that you can salvage the outer casing, you can purchase DX99FR instead.
If you're replacing your old actuator, you're probably looking at this one and thinking, yeah, that looks like mine alright, but doesn't UFP make these? The short answer is that Dexter bought out Unique Functional Parts (UFP) in 2013, changed the name, but kept the awesome design. Rest assured, this is the real deal and not some kind of knockoff.
Trigger latches on traditional couplers can be kind of a pain to work with sometimes.
For starters, you have to hold the latch up as you lower the coupler onto the hitch ball. Not to mention that the latch can stick out like a sore thumb, so it may get bent or broken by your tailgate or your bumper as you go to hitch up. That's more than just an inconvenience; when your coupler is out of commission, your trailer's not going anywhere with you.
The coupler on this UFP-style actuator negates all of that. Just slide the button on top with your thumb while you lift up the latch handle. Then, place the coupler over the center of your hitch ball and lower your trailer with your tongue jack.
When you can close the latch without forcing it, you'll hear a click. This sound tells you that the ball is seated firmly inside. Then, just re-insert the tethered safety pin, hook up your safety chains and your breakaway cable, and you'll be ready to tow.
Most surge brake actuators have either an electric or manual lockout, if they even have one at all. They don't let you pick one based on your towing setup, but this actuator does.
The solenoid for this electric reverse lockout is designed to tie into the reverse light circuit on your 5-pin, 6-pin, or 7-pole connector so that your disc brakes won't engage when your reverse lights come on. That said, if you have a 4-pin connector, or if you're unable to get the solenoid wired correctly for some reason, you won't get the full benefit from this automatic lockout.
Even if the solenoid is wired correctly, having a manual lockout option as a backup is great in the event that:
Activating the manual lockout is easy, just put the lockout pin in place as shown above. This will prevent the actuator from getting pushed in, which in turn keeps your brakes from activating while you're in reverse. Just don't forget to remove the pin when you're ready to pull forward again.
Quick Tip: To greatly reduce your chances of losing this pin, you might want to include it with your boat keys, tackle box, or something else you can't live without for a day on the water. Or, if you're towing with a different vehicle than you normally do, add "put manual lockout pin in glovebox" to your pre-trip checklist.
When you slow to a stop as you're towing, momentum pushes your trailer toward the rear of your vehicle. When this happens, the surge brake actuator compresses the master cylinder inside, which forces it to push hydraulic fluid out to your brake lines, ultimately engaging your trailer brakes. When you start moving again, the actuator will telescope back out, stopping the flow of fluid back to the brakes and allowing your trailer's wheels to start rolling again.
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