Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Trailer Brake Controller w/ Custom Harness - Up to 4 Axles - Proportional
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2020 Ford Edge
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2020 Ford Edge
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The Tekonsha P2 is a classic brake controller you know you can rely on. It's easy to install, and with the custom harness, it's plug-and-play.
Features:
Specs:
Gain is the maximum amount of power that will be applied to your trailer's brakes. How much braking output you need is determined by the weight of your trailer; a heavier trailer will need more power to bring it to a stop. You want to go as high as you can without the trailer brakes locking up.
You can adjust the gain by turning the thumbwheel on the front of the controller.
The boost setting controls the aggressiveness of your trailer's braking, meaning how quickly the brakes reach the maximum braking level. If your vehicle takes too long to come to a stop, increase the setting. If it stops too abruptly, decrease the setting.
Depending on the level of boost, your trailer brakes can start at either 13 percent or 25 percent of the set gain. So instead of starting at 0, the brakes will start at 25 percent and get to 100 percent sooner. This keeps the trailer from pushing your tow vehicle forward.
Boost Levels:
| Approximate Gross Trailer Weight | Boost Level | Increase in Initial Power Output |
|---|---|---|
| Less than tow vehicle GVW | B1 | 13% |
| Equal to tow vehicle GVW | B1 or B2 | 13% or 25% |
| Up to 25% more than tow vehicle GVW | B2 or B3* | 25% |
| Up to 40% more than tow vehicle GVW | B3* | 25% |
*Both B2 and B3 offer a 25-percent boost in initial power. But the braking curve for B3 is more aggressive than that of B2. This means that, even though you will start out with the same intensity when using these boost levels, you will get an overall more aggressive braking experience with the higher level. So if you use B3, you will reach maximum braking sooner than if you use B2.
To engage the manual override, twist the rotary-style lever from right to left. This will activate the trailer's brakes and brake lights independently of your vehicle, great for stopping sway or controlling your trailer's momentum in an emergency.
The Prodigy P2 offers key safety features to prevent damage to your towing setup:
- Integrated reverse battery protection shields the brake controller and your trailer's breakaway system from shorts.
- When the P2 is not in use, it draws only 3.6 milliamps to minimize the drain on your vehicle's battery.
- Any time your vehicle and trailer are at a standstill with the brakes applied for more than 5 seconds, the hold feature will kick on and reduce power to just 25 percent. This will keep your trailer in place without your brakes overheating.
The Prodigy P2 also runs continuous diagnostics to check for problems as they come up, including:
Installing the P2 is incredibly simple. You'll mount the bracket to your dashboard then mount the unit to the bracket. Plug the custom harness into your vehicle and into the unit. Done!
Keep in mind that the P2 must be horizontally level and parallel with the direction of travel to work correctly.
With a replacement wiring harness (sold separately) and replacement bracket (P7685 - sold separately), you can even transfer the Prodigy P2 to another vehicle.
Note: If you don't already have a 7-way plug at the back of your vehicle, take a look at our exclusive 7- and 4-way brake controller installation kit (ETBC7 - sold separately).
Proportional braking means that your trailer brakes mimic your tow vehicle's brakes. If you slam on the brakes, your trailer brakes will activate with the same intensity; if you brake lightly, your trailer brakes lightly too. The trailer's braking is in proportion to your vehicle's braking. This saves wear and tear on the tires and the brakes on both your vehicle and trailer.
The Prodigy P2 uses an internal inertia sensor to detect how your vehicle is braking so it can send the right amount of braking power to your trailer. It measures the inertia of your tow vehicle and activates the trailer's brakes to slow at the same rate. The result is uniform braking across your towing setup. No push-pull action - just smooth, proportional braking every time.
Alternate Instructions
California residents: click here
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today on 2011 Ford Edge, we're going to be installing the Tekonsha Prodigy P2 trailer brake controller. This controls 1 to 4 axles, and it is proportional. The part number on it is 90885. To do our install, we're also going to be using part number ETBC7. This is going to be the wiring for our brake controller, and part number 18136, which is going to be a no drill bracket mount. Here's what your brake controller is going to look like once you've got it installed onto your Edge. What these allow us to do is fine tune the amount of braking force that our trailer is going to exert as opposed to some of the older styles that used pressure or friction when you stopped or we're trying to back up to apply the brakes. This gives us a manual override here to where we can apply our trailer brakes before we've even hit our vehicle brakes, and as you'll see her, it's fully adjustable up and down to give us the appropriate braking force.
The controller is also going to provide us reverse battery protection for both the vehicle and any breakaway system we might be using. The brake controller is proportional. That's going to produce a stopping power that's relative to the vehicle's deceleration rate. It even works proportionally in reverse, so that's going to be great for backing into tough spots. The manual override allows us to apply more initial trailer braking power when we're towing those heavier loads. The digital display that you can see on the front here is going to depict the voltage delivered to the trailer during braking. The C or NC that you may see when your trailer is not connected is a continual diagnostic check for proper connection. Without our trailer connected, we can push over on our manual override, and as you can see, it's going to give us an NC.
This indicates not connected or we don't have a trailer connected. As you can see when we do get out trailer connected, we're going to have a C indicating that it is connected. We've got 3 different boost levels, a B1, B2, and B3. That setting is controlled with a little blue button here on top, and it's going to be set depending on how heavy our trailer is in relation to your vehicle. We've got our plug here, our 4-way and our 7-way. We need to get our bracket mounted to it.
As you can see there's a small slot there in the end that's going to allow you to slide it right over your wires, and then, we're just going to drop through a couple of screws and put a few of these locking nuts on. You'll have 4 of them. We're going to get them all started in there. On your side that's got your 4-pole, you're going to want to take the cover off just to allow you to slide that bolt in. Now, we'll tighten all 4 of these down. To install our no drill bracket, we're simply going to line up the holes in it with the existing holes that are in the top of our bracket on our plug, and there's just a couple of small screws that will slide in there.
We're going to thread a locking nut onto each one of those. I just want to tighten those on down. As you can see, I've pulled the wires up through the square hole that's in the top of the bracket there. We want to just feed those, in this case, up over our hitch. Let our bracket hang there for a second. We've got our clamp that we're going to be using. This is going to go around the hitch through that same hole in the bracket and back around to where we can function it down here. Then, we'll tighten this on down. One thing you want to make sure of is that you don't have your clamp around your wires. That's really the only precaution here. With that tight, our bracket and our mount is nice and secure. We've got a little bit of excess clamp here. Let's just trim that off so we're not going to have to worry about it. Under our vehicle, the first connection we're going to have to make is the vehicle's 4-pole wiring. It's going to go into our new plug's wiring. We just want some dielectric grease in each of our holes here. We want to make sure we don't have any corrosion buildup or anything. That part number is 11755. Make sure those are together firmly. Now, we'll just wipe off any excess grease that we've got there on our plug, and we'll use a zip tie. We'll go between the brown and yellow on each side, and we're going to tighten that down. That's going to ensure our connection will stay nice and tight, and we won't have any issues. We've got this extra wire here. We're just going to tidy this up and tuck it up here above our hitch. That's going to leave us with 4 wires remaining. We've got our purple wire, that's for the reverse lights on our trailer. If your trailer does have backup lights, we'll connect that into that wire. On our application, we're not going to be using this wire. We're going to cut that off. The white one gets grounded to the body, and our black wire and our blue wire, these are going to be heading up to the front of vehicle. Let's get out white and purple ones taken care of for now. The purple wire, we're just going to cut it off here just so we don't have an exposed wire end hanging out there, we're just going to tape it inline here with my ground wire. You can do it on the ground wire. You can do it to the wires running up to the front of the vehicle, whatever you want. We've brought out white wire right inside the bumper cover here behind the hitch. As you can see, it's already got the ring terminal on it. We're just going to secure that up to the body of the vehicle. That's not a required step, but it would be a good idea just to put some tape around connection here. It certainly doesn't waterproof it, but it will help to protect it. The self-tapper that we're using, that is included in your kit. You won't have to worry about having those on hand. It's nice and secure. For the gray wire here, that's going to be connected to our blue wire and our black wire. It's a double wire that runs in there. We need to cut back that gray sheathing just slightly. You want to be careful as you do that not to nick your interior wires. As you can see, that's just going to roll back. Let's now strip our wires back, and we'll make the connection of the black wire going to our black wire on our plug, and the white wire is going to go to the blue wire coming out of our plug. As always, give them a good tug to make sure we've got a good connection, and we'll tape those up. It's time to run the gray wire, the duplex wire, up to the front of our vehicle. I'm just going to follow along over here where I put that ground. I'm going to find some good points as we go up through here. We really want to stay away from anything that could potentially pinch or damage the wire. Also, stay away from any heat sources. In the instructions, it doesn't say this, but we're going to take this battery out. It's going to give us a lot more room to work and give us enough room so you can actually see what we're doing here. I'm just going to pull out the elongated bolt over here on the side that holds the battery down in place. See there, that's going to bring out the bolt, washer, and the little bracket/holder that goes down in. Remove that bolt for our negative battery terminal, and we'll remove this one for the positive. Up and off there and there. We'll just tilt the front end of it up to where it's on top of the air box, and we can lift it on out. Now, we need to bring our gray wire up from the bottom. We're going to use an extra piece of airline tubing, but you can use just about anything you want, like a coat hanger or a heavy duty piece of wire or something along those lines. We want to keep an eye on it as we run it down through there. You can see light down there. You can see a gap. Work it on down to the bottom of the car. Leave enough up here to where you can grab ahold of it. We'll just take the end of the gray wire, the duplex wire, that we have and tape it right to our fish wire. I've got to make a little wedge there in the tip to help guide it up through any narrow spots we might have. Now, we'll just easily pull and get our wire up here where we can work with it. It's time to trim back the sheathing as we do this just like before, we want to be careful not to cut our other wires. Just back here on the firewall, we've got a grommet. We're going to use that grommet to pass our wires through. I've started with the airline tubing attached to a small screwdriver. We'll try this first just to push it through the grommet. We'll not just attach the white wire to that air tube or coat hanger or whatever you used as a pull wire. Now, we're off to the inside. We're just going to trim that electrical tape back. We pull that off, and you see here's our pull wire. The screwdriver is still sticking through the grommet. We'll pull that out in just a second. Let's keep pulling our white wire and take out all the slack we've got. Now, it's time to connect our white wire to the blue wire that come out of the backside of our brake controller. To do that, we're going to strip it back and put on one of the butt connectors here. With that nice and secure, we'll put in the blue wire. With that secure, let's tape it up. The red wire that we have here, this is going to get connected to our brake stop switch. The white wire is our ground wire. This needs to go to the negative terminal of our battery outside of the vehicle. The black one is going to go into the circuit breaker. This is our power supply for our brake controller. These 2 are going to need to go outside of the vehicle, and as you can see, there not long enough. With the ETBC7 kit, you're going to have more than enough of the duplex wiring. We're going to take the white wire, the excess that we had inside of here. Cutting that in half is typically going to give us more than enough, and we're simply going to connect our white wire here to our white wire coming our of the back of the brake controller pigtail. Now, we'll connect the other half of the wire that we salvaged from our duplex to the black wire coming out of the back of our brake controller, which is the brake controller power. We'll just tape up that connection, and now, we're going to run both of these back out under the hood of the vehicle. This is where it can get a little bit confusing. What we're going to do is on the white that's connected to the black on, that needs to go to power. I'm going to take a red marker or any type of marker, and let's mark that up. That one and the other one, which is our ground, is going to go to the negative terminal. These need to go out under the hood. That's why we've still got out fish wire or cable that's inside, the same one that we poked through that grommet and brought through our white wire when we we're bring it in. Now, we'll use it in a reverse method to get it out. Now, we're going to mount our circuit breakers in place. They've included the hardware for that as well, some self-tapping screws. We're going to put the 40 amp right up on top here a little bit, and the 20 amp, I'm going to mount down just a little bit lower. We'll do that one about right there that way we can run our wires underneath it and won't have a lot of interference. Let's go through and make our under-hood connections. We'll start with the black wire that runs from the rear of the vehicle. This is the one that's in the duplex that runs up with our white wire. Figure out what length we're going to need and trim it, strip it, and then we'll put a ring terminal on the end of that. Just a little bit of tape on there to help protect it. This will be connected into our 40 amp circuit breaker, and it should go on the silver side of it. There's a small lock washer and then a nut that will hold these in place. Now, we're can deal with the brake controller power wire, remember the one inside the car that we marked up red. This comes out, and it's going to be connected onto the silver side. Just like before, we're going to strip this back, and we'll be putting a ring terminal on it. What we're going to do is with the white wire that we didn't mark red, the one that goes to the ground for our brake controller, we're going to cut it to the length we need, strip it, and we'll add a ring terminal. Of course, we're going to tape that connection up like all the other ones we've done. This is ultimately going to wind up on the negative post of our battery. To come from the copper side on both of our circuit breakers, we're going to use a piece of the extra black wire that we had. We just need to cut it into 2 links and measure how much you're going to need. Then, let's add on 2 of the ring terminals with the smaller holes. The smaller holed ring terminal is the one that actually connect to the circuit breaker, and then, there are a couple of larger ring terminals, those go to the battery. With that taped up, we'll run it right into our copper side there again. Now, we'll begin with those wires we just installed and put 2 of the larger ring terminals on them. We've got all of our connections made up here. We're going to place our battery back in. We wanted to get all those done so the battery wouldn't really interfere. To make enough room for our breakers and our battery, we just pulled the sensor off of that firewall there just so we can position it around here and still keep everything safe and not going to have to worry about it grounding out. We'll just tighten down the wedge on that so it will get ahold of our battery. Now while we're on this terminal, let's pull off the nut and washer that are located there, and that will allow us to connect our ground wire from our brake controller. Let's attach our positive terminal, and then, we'll connect the 2 wires that are meant to go to our positive side of the battery coming from our circuit breakers. If you choose to, you can cut a little notch here in the end of your cover to allow that to come through. If not, it's going to be kicked up on that side a little bit. Tuck our excess wire down here in case we ever need to make any adjustments or changes. You'll want to take a look at it just to make sure it's not making contact with anything harsh or anything like that. Now, we can go on inside and make our final connection. We're going to check right underneath here on our stoplight switch/brake switch, and we need to find the wire that's only going have power to it whenever the brake pedal is pressed. Right underneath here is a nice little piece of metal that you can ground out your tester. There we go. Using our quick connect here, we'll slide the factory wire in all the way over to the 2nd slot, and then, our brake controller wire will go in. We need to press down firmly on the metal tab here. With that down, we'll pull the cap over the top. It's clipped up. Now, let's slide this back into the brake pedal switch. Our brake switch is located here. We'll now find a suitable spot where we want our brake controller to be mounted. We don't want it too low to where it's interfering with our feet. We don't want it mounted too high. We'll just use the self-tapping screws, which are included, and thread those on in. Connect the wiring into the back of the controller, and then, we can slide it right into the spot. Down here you can see we've got a few wires. We're going to secure these with some zip ties just to get everything cleaned up, maybe a little electrical tape if you choose. Then, all we've got left before we hit the road is just to run a quick test on it to make sure it's going to work, and we'll be free to hit the highway. With our brake controller secure and all of our connections made, that will complete today's installation of Tekonsha Prodigy P2 trailer brake controller, part number 90885. We also used wiring, part number ETBC7, and the no drill mounting bracket in the long version, part number 18136, all on our 2011 Ford Edge. .
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