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Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector

Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector

Item # C56369
Retail:$122.95
Our Price: $67.13
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Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring

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Quickly and easily install a 4-way trailer connector on your vehicle with this custom harness. T-connector plugs directly into existing wiring. Powered converter reduces strain on wiring system and is made using SMT to ensure superior performance. 1-800-940-8924 to order CURT custom fit vehicle wiring part number C56369 or order online at etrailer.com. Free expert support on all CURT products. Great prices and Fastest Shipping for Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector. Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring reviews from real customers.
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  • Reviews (40)
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  • Videos (3)
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  • Why etrailer?

CURT Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring - C56369

  • Custom Fit
  • Trailer Hitch Wiring
  • 4 Flat
  • Powered Converter
  • CURT

Quickly and easily install a 4-way trailer connector on your vehicle with this custom harness. T-connector plugs directly into existing wiring. Powered converter reduces strain on wiring system and is made using SMT to ensure superior performance.


Features:

  • Provides a 4-way flat trailer connector at the back of your vehicle to power your trailer's signal lights
    • Compatible with 5-pole, 6-pole and 7-pole adapters (sold separately)
  • Connects quickly and easily
    • Locate connection points behind tail lights
    • Plug in T-connector
    • Run hot lead to car battery
  • Includes a powered tail light converter that connects directly to your battery to avoid overloading your vehicle's electrical system
  • Constructed using surface-mount technology (SMT) for consistent, reliable performance
    • Maximizes trailer light yield and intensity while producing minimal heat
    • Ensures superior operation in rough road conditions
  • Comes with dust cap for 4-way flat connector


Specs:

  • Maximum amperage:
    • Stop/turn lights: 3 amps per circuit
    • Tail lights: 6 amps per circuit
  • Limited 1-year warranty


Installation

This custom-fit T-connector plugs into your vehicle's wiring harness, which is located behind the driver's-side and passenger's-side tail lights. You will have to remove the trunk floor coverings, scuff panel, side storage tray, and tail light assemblies to access this harness. Once you've plugged in the T-connector, run the hot lead up to your car battery. Connect the lead to the included fuse holder, and then connect the fuse holder to the positive terminal on your battery.


Once installation is complete, the 4-way connector will be stowed in an out-of-the-way location within your cargo area.


It is recommended that you use a small amount of grease on all electrical connections - the plugs on your automobile and the 4-pole connector itself - to help prevent corrosion.


Powered Tail Light Converter with Surface-Mount Technology

A tail light converter is built into this T-connector. This converter is a circuit-protected, battery-powered unit that bypasses the electrical routes that are used by a basic wiring harness. As a result, there is virtually no draw on your tail light circuits.


Curt builds each tail light converter using surface-mount technology (SMT). This method of construction involves soldering electronic components directly to the surface of a printed circuit board. SMT eliminates the need for leads, which are used in older through-hole technology. The result is a circuit board that is smaller yet provides more routing area and that offers superior performance, reliability and durability.


Curt SMT Circuit Boards

Circuit boards constructed using SMT have been shown to perform better under rough conditions with excessive vibration than those made using the through-hole method. And where would vibration be more likely to occur than in towing applications? Curt converters also produce less heat, leading to increased durability and longer life. In addition, lower levels of resistance ensure better performance, especially for parts that operate at higher frequencies.


Each Curt circuit board is made using high-quality components that are pieced together in the most technologically savvy fashion, leading to greater predictability and reliability in functioning.



56369 CURT T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4 Pole Trailer Connector

Installation Details C56369 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles



California residents: click here


Video of Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness Installation - 2020 Jeep Compass

Hello, neighbors. It's Brad here at etrailer. And today, we're taking a look at a CURT trailer wiring kit on our 2020 Jeep Compass. Now, this is gonna allow you to hook up to your trailer with the connection, allowing you to stay safe and legal. Now, you can run this out of your vehicle, but we chose today to keep it in the vehicle. So with our four-plug hole, this will give us running lights, brake lights, and our two turn signals.

And that way, people behind you can see what you're doing while pulling the trailer. Installation is pretty straightforward. Essentially, what you're doing is attaching to your existing brake lights, and then there's a T connector. Now, that's gonna connect to a module and you're also gonna run to your other side. From there, you're gonna have a ground and a power wire that you're gonna run to your battery.

So it may seem a little overwhelming, but step by step, I'll walk you through the installation. So now, let's take a look at that. To get our installation started, we're gonna open up the hatch and we're gonna take off this center garnish, and that's gonna allow us eventually to get to these taillights so we can plug them in. So first things first, you have one on each side. So using a trim panel tool remover or a flathead screwdriver, we can simply pop that up, and that's gonna show you that there's a T30 Torx bit there.

So go ahead and remove that. Go ahead and set these aside somewhere safe and that way, you have them for later. Next, we're gonna lift our cargo carrier up. Let me get and set this up. So you're gonna see one, two, and then on the other side, three total Torx bits here, and I'm using a T20.

So go ahead and remove those. So with those three removed, we're gonna remove the center garnish. And that's gonna just kinda take a little bit of prying up and there are clips, so just be careful not to break them and work from the outside in. And that should pop up. Now, before you pull too hard, there is this sensor here and you're gonna want to unplug that. Purple clip slid back, that should pop out. Now, to continue removing panels. We have this little cubby here. We're gonna just pop this out and that's gonna give us a handhold while pulling this out. Now, again, same thing. There are clips. So just take your time, be careful, and work your way kind of out and then towards the center portion. So as you can see, it was a little bit of a struggle. Take your time. You don't wanna over-bend the plastic because then it can cause a crease and it's kinda permanent. So again, be patient with it, but just kinda work your way back. So underneath this cubbyhole, you're gonna feel a rubber grommet. We're gonna pop this out. Just work your fingers around the edges of it. So I've used a strap to kinda keep our plastic pulled back 'cause we're gonna be accessing back here. And where we pulled that grommet from, that's just the pass-through from the wires in the inside to the exterior of the vehicle, which is gonna route to our taillights. So we'll come back to that and run our wire through it. But for right now, I'm gonna get our taillight off. So with a flathead screwdriver, you can see there's a slight little groove at the top. You just kinda pry in there and put your flathead in, a little twist, and then you're gonna see a T30 Torx bit. And so we'll go ahead and loosen those up. Next step is gonna have the taillight being popped out. So kinda give it a quick wiggle and pull straight back. So using this whole, mainly I was able to pull that. So you're gonna see this is where we have our wiring. So from here, I'm gonna unhook this and set my taillight aside. So with my wiring kind of laid out here, we do have our yellow, brown, and our ground wire. And what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna peel this back just a little bit. And that grommet, this is gonna pass through the grommet and then through a cavity up to this plug. So what I'm gonna do is pull the grommet back with a gap. And right now, I have an air line and this is gonna fish up and be my pull wire for those plugs to get to here. So I'll pull this here, and with the grommet pulled back, I can see down in the cavity this air line. And if you don't have an air line, you can use a string from the top side with a weight or a coat hanger or something along those lines. So now, you can see this is pulled up. So I'm gonna tape my plugs to this, and then we'll pass those through. So with my plugs electrical taped to my air line, I'm gonna feed this through. I'm gonna have to pull the grommet back just a bit to kinda create some space for it. Just slowly work your plugs up and take your time moving from the back end. And if they get caught, just kind of be patient and kinda work your way up. Okay, and then once we have it pulled through, we can then remove our tape. And now, you will see the factory plug is gonna go into our T connector. And then, this plug is gonna go onto our taillight. So we can actually grab our taillight and plug that in. Now, there is a little notch here, so just make sure that, that's lined up with the notch inside of there. Okay. Now, we have our driver's side done. So we're gonna go ahead and repeat the process on the other side as far as removing the taillights. On the passenger side, we have our green wire. Now, we're gonna do the same process as the driver's side as far as popping this plastic up a little bit, and there is gonna be a rubber grommet, and we're gonna fish this up as well. So we plugged our plug into the factory harness and the other part of the T to the taillight just like the driver's side. Set those kind of down, and get our taillight back in place. With our taillights plugged in, we're left with a ground screw, which we can attach to the inside of the frame. Now, this black wire is gonna have to be butt connector-ed up to the rest of the power wire, and we're gonna run that up to the battery. So I'm now gonna route my white ground wire and my black power wire through the same grommet on the driver's side, and that's gonna come out underneath the vehicle, and that's gonna allow us to not only attach the ground to something that is safe in the car, but also have our power wire run to a battery. With our power wire ran through that grommet, I could access it by reaching up on the side panel here. It's hard to kinda grab, but once you get a hold of it, pull the rest of that slack down. Now, what I did to run it was by starting by going over this wheel well plastic. Now, my main goal is to stay away from anything hot, moving, or anything that can pinch or chafe the wires. So running it with factory wires is kinda my end goal. So what I did here is I used this little bracket to zip tie, and then you can see, I was able to join up with the rest of these cables. Now, once I got to this plastic sheathing, I was able to actually just pop that in the side without having to remove bolts and then continued on to the beginning of the engine bay. Now, I popped my hood and just the same fish wire technique that we did on the rear, I did that on our engine bay. So our battery's on the driver's side, so run a hose or a string down there. And that way, you can attach your wire to pull it through. Now that I have my wire run up to the front, that's gonna take that tension away from the wire that we pulled through. So we're gonna clean this up. Now, part of that is this rubber grommet. We're actually gonna splice this and run our other wires into it. So I have a pair of snips. You can use a knife, just be careful. What we'll do is just make a nice cut. And now, I'm gonna actually take my yellow and brown wires and kind of run this in the center here. So when we put this grommet back in, it's still protected. Now, we also have a power wire. So we'll put that in the grouping and then set this grommet back in place. Now, since it does have that splice, we're gonna go back with the black silicone that's included in the kit and put that in here. And that way, it keeps it water-sealed. Now, also included in the kit is gonna be a self-tapping screw and double-sided tape. So the self-tapping screw we're gonna use to attach our ground to the side of the vehicle, and that way it's grounded. And double-sided tape, you put that on the module and mount it nice and clean. So first, we'll take our self-tapper. And we're gonna find a spot that's clean metal, part of the frame itself, but also out of the way of the plastics. So, well, let's see. I think I can mount this I think on this inner panel right here should work fine. So with our ground and everything fixed up in the back, now, it's time to put the power wire onto the actual terminal. Now, I'd use my fish wire again, as I said, and mounted this up. Again, double-check to make sure that there's not any hot parts as far as like exhaust or steering parts or anything like that, that it can get caught up on. So let's pop this open and see what we're working with. So we are gonna be tying into these connectors. So before we do that, we need to install our fuse holder. So this is included in the kit. Now, important, you also have a fuse. Don't put this in until you are connected to power. Safety note there. So now, I'm gonna splice these. And with our supplied butt connector, we're gonna attach it to this power wire. So I'm just gonna cut it off and we'll call it right there. Still giving me a little bit of freedom if I need to. Okay. So now, once you have those butt connectors crimped down, give it a quick tug to make sure that doesn't pull apart. Now, on the other side of your fuse holder, we'll put the ring terminal that's supplied in the kit on there, and that will attach to our battery terminal. Again, go through, make sure your connection is good. So now, I'm gonna get a socket and we'll pull that power off, slip that on there, and cap it back up. Okay, now with that tightened in place, we can go ahead and put our fuse in. Cap that up. So we're almost done with installation. Before I put everything back, I'm gonna actually use a tester to make sure that our signals are being sent properly. And that way, we know we're good to go. So with that plugged in, we're gonna run it through the cycles. Daytime running lights on, left turn signal, right turn signal, and then my brake lights. So that was a look at the CURT T connection trailer wiring harness on a 2020 Jeep Compass. So if you're looking to tow a trailer or have accessories that have lights attached to them, this is gonna be an awesome option. And I hope the installation walked you through it to make sure that you're ready to hit the road. Thanks for watching..

Customer Satisfaction Score:


Customer Reviews

Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector - C56369

Average Customer Rating:  4.5 out of 5 stars   (40 Customer Reviews)

Quickly and easily install a 4-way trailer connector on your vehicle with this custom harness. T-connector plugs directly into existing wiring. Powered converter reduces strain on wiring system and is made using SMT to ensure superior performance.

by:

Works perfect... I leave the plug that goes to the trailer inside the jeep all the time. I pull it out and shut the hatch to plug into the trailer harness only when I am using a trailer. This way it does not rot off from the salt they use in the winter. Would buy again...




by:
2022 Jeep Compass

Once again, my satisfaction with Curt products and the folks at etrailer is very high. I can always count on exceptional service (ordering, notifications, follow-ups, etc), and having access to installation videos makes all the difference. This install took me awhile because I did it by myself with the rear of the car on drive-up stands, so not much room and the hitch itself is very heavy. But the end result is exceptional. I'll be using both a bike rack and pulling a trailer. On to the wiring harness install.




by:

Haven't had any issues whatsoever. Kind of a pain to install as I wanted it to be as much like a stock install as possible but very doable as aside from a few details the curt connector is very similar, in size, to the stock. Couple of things I'd advise for a stock install. One is to get your own double sided tape as the tape provided with the kit stuck on a flat, vertical surface for about 5 mins. you will need an additional 6-8 feet of 12ga. stranded wire for power. Second hardest grommets to deal with are the ones for the tail lights. Lastly, the grommet between the cabin and engine compartment is a real pill to get through. If you don't want to spend the $250+ for the stock harness, this will do the job nicely.


Comments
Great, only thing that would make it better would be a factory style 4 pole plug.
George - 02/18/2022


by:
2018 Jeep Compass

I am giving this one star because it did not live up to the install video. The item itself is fine, but the install was NOT. As per the video - "just pull those grommets out", good luck with that unless you have teeny tiny mini hands. "Pull that lower grommet out and send the flat connector thru it", SORRY DOES NOT FIT THRU THE HOLE (2018 Compass, which was what the video was for) I had to send it thru the upper hole which I already replaced the grommet in which was not an easy thing to do - TWICE. "Just secure the unit in place with the enclosed 2 sided tape", the enclosed 2 sided tape was only sticky on ONE SIDE. "Just seal he grommets with the enclosed sealer", SORRY NOT INCLUDED in my kit. I made a point of watching the install video carefully B4 I purchased the item so there would be no surprises . . . SURPRISE!




by:

It was shipped quickly and was fairly easy to install.




by:

All products were as described!




by:

Every thing looks excellent, but I won't assemble it until the weather warms up. I have to assume there will be no problems. Delivery was prompt and accurate. If the need arises I would not hesitate to order from etrailer again.




by:
2012 Chevrolet Volt

Nightmare to install if you follow what is said. Broke clips undoing a panel that didn’t need to be snapped off. Also, be aware that they want to to wire the lights to your battery. Didn’t have to do that the last time we installed one of these. We are going to be using them a couple times a year maybe. Bought a 12 volt rechargeable battery at Cabelas. Wired the ground to it rather than the car and attached the trailer light power box and it works like a charm. Take the battery out and store it in my house until we need it again.


Comments
The Curt T-Connector wiring harness features a powered converter box to send signal to your trailers wiring. This powered converter box uses your vehicles battery to power the trailers lights, rather than pulling power from the tow vehicles wiring system.
-- Etrailer Expert Victoria B - 03/20/2020


by:
2020 Jeep Compass

Fast delivery!




by: 08/11/2021

Did not work for the Jeep Compass. Will be looking for another electrical setup.


Comments
This does not work for the old body style, but other than that, I would need more information before trying to troubleshoot why this did not work for you.
-- Etrailer Expert Sierra K - 08/23/2021


by:
2018 Jeep Compass

Product installed fairly quickly with the provided instructions (as well as video on the website). Most difficult part was fishing the wiring down through the grommet in the rear compartments and back up to the taillights.

The ground wire already has a crimped loop and was attached to the driver side pigtail. I decided to separate it and not fish it up to the taillight (kept it in the same compartment as the rear fuse panel). Instead of using the included self tapping screw, I used one of the existing fuse block mounting studs / nuts as a ground point.

Instead of running the power supply to the converter box all the way up to the battery, I decided to utilize the fuse panel which is in the same compartment where the controller gets mounted. For whatever reason, I had a spare 20 amp slot in the fuse panel for an accessory that I don't have (sunroof). I used one of those fuse tap add-a-circuit adapters and retained the 20 amp fuse in case something else might be on the original circuit (amp meter showed no draw on the circuit with the vehicle running), and added a 10 amp fuse going to the wiring controller.

Only downside to this is that power is only supplied when the vehicle is on ACC, and not always hot (not that big of a deal honestly). Acceptable trade off in my opinion for not running a wire up to the engine compartment.




by:
2018 Jeep Compass

Another awesome product from the folks at etrailer. Everything I buy from etrailer is top notch and works like a champ! I am very pleased.


Comments
Still perfect without a single issue!
Dan - 08/31/2019


by:

Installed fairly well, was able to locate a power source closer to the install location and soldered it on there instead of dismantling my interior to run it to the front.




by:
2018 Jeep Compass

Decent product, but the install was less than stellar.

The product itself appears to be good. The workmanship and parts that come with it are all usable and look to be of good quality. The issue with this particular item is the installation instructions - simply poor. The pictures are too small to make anything out, so much guess work was involved, the concept for install required much to do that someone of a novice grade would have a very difficult time.




by:

Looks like it is all there.




by:

Nice fit/finish, works well.




by:
2018 Jeep Compass

Worked out great...a little harder to install,video left out something but I love ordering from here,always have what I need and fast service. Thanks




by:

Very easy installation! Instructions were detailed and easy to understand! Everything works perfect!




by:

it don`t on the right side the signal l ight.




by:
2018 Jeep Compass

Good price and great people to deal with, fast delivery, will use etrailer again




by:

Great product fast shipping




by:
2018 Jeep Compass

Great product easy installation




by:




by:




by:

Thanks works great



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See what our Experts say about this CURT Custom Fit Vehicle Wiring

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    With the fuse blowing on your 2019 Jeep Compass while using The Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector # C56369, it is very possible that the converter box has shorted out and is allowing power from the battery to back feed to the vehicle taillight. It could also be a loose wire on the vehicle side causing it to be constantly on you could check each connection using The Hook Probe Circuit Tester Kit # PTW2993. Using the circuit tester will find electrical...
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Info for this part was:

Employee Lindsey S
Edited by:
Lindsey S
Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Cole B
Installed by:
Cole B
Employee Wilson B
Updated by:
Wilson B
Employee Kristina F
Updated by:
Kristina F
Employee Isabelle B
Updated by:
Isabelle B
Employee Ronnie R
Written by:
Ronnie R
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B

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