Parts Needed to Flat Tow 2022 Chevy Spark

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Question:

Hello, I just bought our tow vehicle recently 2022 Chevy Spark, and need to get all set up to tow behind our class C Jayco Melbourne prestige 24LP I bought the Blue Ox Base plate and am looking for the rest to complete wiring and lights, and battery disconnect. The Diode kit seems expensive but needed and the battery disconnect I was thinking of a marine style switch on off 500A in a small package for mounting near the battery. The wiring from the base plate to the smart diode kit does it have the 6 way or 4 way connector with spring loaded connector housing that mounts to the BO Base plate. I was thinking of using a surge brake setup as the car is very light 2100 lbs. Not sold on it yet but leaning towards that direction currently. Im not 100 sure the best way yet to wire the 7 way RV connector to the base plate normally a 6 way. since that connector is screw in terminals it really doesnt matter. now is it also good idea to run a 12v pwr wire from the RV to run a contactor if I decide to use the battery disconnect with 12v control to disconnect the 12v battery from inside the vehicle. Since the solenoid is on the RV power or any 12v system it should need a flyback diode to protect the electronics when deenergizing the solenoid. I am trying to order all my parts up here before I start the tear down of the vehicle. Also Looking at the rear tow hitch by Curt. You also have the 1.25 to 2 riser adapter for it as I have a bike rack and dont want them dragging on the ground. Am I missing anything here to get this Spark ready to be towed. Thanks, Bill

asked by: William W

0

Expert Reply:

In addition to the base plates like the Blue Ox set you have for your 2022 Chevy Spark, you will also need a compatible tow bar, safety cables, lighting, and supplemental braking to flat tow your vehicle. One of the most popular compatible tow bars is the Blue Ox Avail # BX7420 which comes with safety cables. The coiled design helps keep the cables off of the ground.

For lighting you can use the diode kit, # RM-15267, and not have to worry about cutting into the taillight housing. This will splice into your taillight wiring to allow your tow vehicle to control the taillight assemblies of the towed vehicle. This comes with a round 6-way connector that you will install on the front of your towed vehicle and enough coiled wire to go from there to the RV.

And finally, most states now require supplemental braking in the vehicle being flat towed. The easiest system to set up and use is the Blue Ox Patriot # BLU37TR, that applies the vehicle brakes in proportion to how much the tow vehicle is braking. This is the safest way to stop and it reduces wear and tear on both vehicles. I've yet to hear anyone have a great experience with the surge style brake systems is why I didn't recommend that route.

For a battery disconnect we have the Roadmaster Kit part # RM-766 which would make it a lot easier than using a marine switch like you mentioned.

The Curt hitch part # C11433 is a fit for your Spark and would do a great job carrying a bike rack but we don't like to recommend hitch adapters for Class I hitches as they cut the hitch capacity by 50 percent. What bike rack do you have?

expert reply by: Jameson C

0

William W.

6/30/2026

I'm going with the NSA Ready Brute Elite II Tow bar as this light vehicle is nothing to worry about and as long as you keep the tension cable just right its a much easier setup. I have zero extra storage space in a class C sprinter RV. i was going to have the Even Brake setup but changed my mind. another large box to store in the toad. Space is at a premium. The tail lights I am going with the Bulb and socket approach. adding 4 diodes is a pain. The Sprinter is very sensitive to any LED tied into the trailer or RV lighting system. goes into a spaz mode as it thinks there is a bulb out but worse. That can be remedied by adding another 50 watt resister that can cook your marsh mellows when driving at night. lol I know they make the incandescent version as well. drilling 2x 1" holes cleanly silicone it up. Might be a pain to change bulbs but nothing a utility knife can't get to it. The Tow hitch I was going to build a custom 2" hitch. Started to think about it and I am going to weld a bar under the receiver and run it under the spare tire carrier with two arms to spread the load and bolt it thru the floor area. This will get me a lot more tongue weight back as it will reduce the leverage of it wanting to drop down towards the rear. I have a 1up HD two rail setup its for my enduro / e bikes rated for 75 lbs each bike. My bikes are 52 lbs each but I was not planning on taking my race bikes on trips but get some city e bikes to cruise around with the wife on. Those can weight 90 lbs each. Not if I can help it... 180 lbs of bikes max plus the 1 Up is 45 lbs, 225 lbs total. I will test it out and see if the 1.25" solid bar is the weak link or not and if so, I will cut it off and make it a 2" receiver with suggested mods to tie it up under the spare tire carrier. All 70's and 80" BMW and MBZ had tow bars that were mounted this way and only bolted to a bumper. but tongue weight was not as much. It can be done just figured the 1.25 hitch has the side mounts already done and less design work for me to start from scratch. who knows might be a waste of my time. Thanks for the response and I seemed to go opposite of what you were suggesting, not intentional by any means. Bill

Jameson C.

6/30/2026

@WilliamW Understandable! There's definitely more than one way to skin a cat.

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