Recommended RV A/C for a 2002 Rexhall Class A Motorhome

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Question:

Hello, I am planning an air conditioning upgrade for my 2002 Rexhall Class A motorhome and would appreciate some guidance regarding the best Furrion Chill Cube configuration for my intended setup. My coach originally came equipped with a dual-zone rooftop AC and propane furnace system using a factory wall thermostat/control arrangement. The RV has overhead ducting for the original rooftop AC system. Here is the direction I am planning to go: FRONT LIVING AREA: Replace the original front rooftop AC with a Furrion Chill Cube 18,000 BTU unit. I am strongly considering using the unit in a non-ducted / direct-dump downdraft configuration rather than utilizing the existing roof ducting. My understanding is that this may improve efficiency and airflow substantially by eliminating duct losses and heat gain in the roofline ducts. REAR BEDROOM: Install a separate 12V rooftop AC unit OutequipPro 10,000 BTU. This unit will independently cool the bedroom area only. HEATING: I intend to retain the existing propane furnaces. I do NOT need integrated thermostat control between the new AC systems and the original thermostat. My primary goal is simplicity, reliability, and preserving furnace operation with minimal complication. I am perfectly comfortable having separate controls for: Front AC Rear AC Furnace heat A few important notes: My original front AC has generally been operated with the direct down vents open anyway, rather than fully forcing air into the ceiling duct system. Because the bedroom will now have its own dedicated 12V AC unit, the front AC no longer needs to cool the entire coach evenly from front to rear. I would prefer the simplest and most serviceable installation possible. I am hoping to reuse the existing 120V rooftop AC supply wiring if appropriate. My questions are: Which specific Chill Cube model/configuration would you recommend for this application? Can a Chill Cube be installed in non-ducted/direct-dump mode in a coach originally configured for ducted AC? Is there a preferred ceiling assembly or plenum kit for this type of installation? Would you recommend sealing/blocking the existing duct openings at the rooftop opening if using direct dump? Do you foresee any issues retaining the existing propane furnace controls separately while abandoning the original AC thermostat integration? Is the existing 120V rooftop AC wiring typically reused for this installation? In your experience, is the direct-dump configuration likely to perform better in an older Class A motorhome where rooftop duct losses may be significant? I would greatly appreciate your recommendations regarding the cleanest and most practical approach. Thank you very much for your time and expertise. Mike Fenton Ukiah, California

asked by: Mike F

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Expert Reply:

Thanks for all the details Mike, that helped a lot.

For what you’re wanting to do, I’d recommend the Furrion Chill Cube 18,000 BTU ductless setup, # FR59TD in white or # FR27TD in black.

Since you’re adding a separate rear bedroom AC and won’t need the front unit to feed the whole coach, the ductless setup makes the most sense. It will give you stronger airflow in the front living area instead of losing air through older roof ducting.

Yes, it can be installed in a coach that originally had a ducted AC, as long as the roof opening and roof thickness are compatible. If you go ductless, I would block the old duct openings at the rooftop area so the new unit dumps air directly into the room instead of bleeding air into the ceiling ducts.

You should also be fine keeping the propane furnace controls separate. Since you don’t need the new AC tied into the original wall thermostat, the furnace system can remain on its existing controls.

The existing 120V AC wiring can often be reused but I’d have the installer verify that the circuit, wire size, and breaker are in good condition and correct for the new unit.

What kind of climates do you usually camp in; extreme heat, humid summers, or cooler shaded areas?

expert reply by: James D

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Mike F.

5/22/2026

Hi James. Thank you for your quick reply. We primarily camp on the Mendocino Coast, where temps are relatively cool. We do however, live inland in Ukiah CA, where temperatures in summer months often get well above 100 degrees. We use the RV occasionally to camp nearby, and as overnight housing for occasional family/guests coming to visit. At these times, the RV is in direct sunlight much of the time. That is one reason we are utilizing solar panels and a 12v AC unit for the Bedroom. I do have a few more questions: Can you confirm the required roof thickness and interior ceiling assembly depth compatibility for the Chill Cube ductless unit in a 2002 Rexhall Class A coach? Are there any special return-air clearance or airflow requirements for the ductless ceiling assembly that my installer should be aware of? Do you foresee any issues operating the 18k Chill Cube from a typical 5500W onboard RV generator, particularly during compressor startup? (I have an Eco-Flow Pro w/extra batteries as well.) (Soft-start eliminate this concern?) Are there any known condensation-management concerns or installation recommendations for the ductless Chill Cube setup? Approximately how far does the ductless interior assembly protrude below the ceiling? Sorry for the barrage of questions...I try to think of as much as possible to avoid surprises/returns, etc. Thank you for your assistance. It is much appreciated, as this is definitely outside my normal frame of reference.

James D.

5/22/2026

@MikeF No worries at all, those are exactly the right questions to be asking before diving into a project like this. For the Furrion Chill Cube ductless setup, the roof thickness should be 3" to 6", which covers the majority of Class A motorhomes. Your installer should still verify the actual roof thickness at the opening just to be safe. The ductless ceiling assembly itself is low profile and is roughly 2-1/2" to 3" below the ceiling depending on installation. For airflow, the biggest thing is making sure the return air openings around the ceiling assembly are not blocked or restricted. Since you’re going ductless system, airflow is actually simpler than a ducted install because you’re not trying to balance ceiling duct pressure. As far as your 5500W generator, I would not expect any issues running the 18K Chill Cube. The variable speed compressor is much easier on startup power draw than many older rooftop AC units. A soft start generally is not necessary with the Chill Cube, although it certainly never hurts if you already planned to add one. With your EcoFlow setup and solar, I think your overall approach makes a lot of sense for the way you’re using the coach. For condensation management, the biggest recommendation is simply making sure the rooftop unit is installed level and the roof gasket is compressed correctly. Proper sealing and drainage are important on any rooftop AC, but I’m not aware of any unusual condensation concerns specific to the Chill Cube systems. Honestly, I think your plan is very well thought out. Using the 18K ductless unit up front and a separate 12V bedroom AC should work especially well for your combination of coastal camping and occasional extreme inland heat.

Recommended RV A/C for a 2002 Rexhall Class A Motorhome

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