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  1. Trailer Brakes
  2. Dexter Axle
  3. Electric Drum Brakes
  4. 2000 lbs Axle
  5. 2200 lbs Axle
  6. 7 x 1-1/4 Inch Drum
Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Kit - 7" - Left and Right Hand Assemblies - - 2,000- to 2,200-lbs

Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Kit - 7" - Left and Right Hand Assemblies - - 2,000- to 2,200-lbs

Item # 23-47-48
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Our Price: $192.43
Trailer Brakes
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Shipping Weight: 9 lbs
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23-47-48 - 2000 lbs Axle,2200 lbs Axle Dexter Axle Electric Drum Brakes
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7" x 1-1/4" Driver's-side and passenger's-side electric trailer brake assemblies fit 2,000- to 2,200-lb axles. Mounting flanges have a 4-bolt pattern. Fit 10" to 13" wheels. Lowest Prices for the best trailer brakes from Dexter Axle. Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Kit - 7" - Left and Right Hand Assemblies - - 2,000- to 2,200-lbs part number 23-47-48 can be ordered online at or call 1-800-496-5010 for expert service.
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Dexter Axle Trailer Brakes - 23-47-48

  • Electric Drum Brakes
  • 2000 lbs Axle
  • 2200 lbs Axle
  • 7 x 1-1/4 Inch Drum
  • 10 Inch Wheel
  • 12 Inch Wheel
  • 13 Inch Wheel
  • Boat Trailer
  • Camper
  • Car Hauler
  • Snow Trailer
  • Utility Trailer
  • Manual Adjust
  • Dexter Axle

7" x 1-1/4" Driver's-side and passenger's-side electric trailer brake assemblies fit 2,000- to 2,200-lb axles. Mounting flanges have a 4-bolt pattern. Fit 10" to 13" wheels.


  • Electric brakes are easier to install and offer more user control than hydraulic brakes
    • Require only an electric brake controller (sold separately) - no actuator or hydraulic lines necessary
  • Left-hand (driver's-side) brake assembly, right-hand (passenger's-side) brake assembly, and mounting nuts included
  • Made in the USA


  • Dimensions: 7" diameter x 1-1/4" wide
  • Mounting flange bolt pattern: 4 bolt
  • Wheel size: 10", 12", and 13"
  • Axle rating: 2,000-lbs to 2,200-lbs

23-47 7" Electric Brake Assembly for 2K to 2.2K Axles - LH

23-48 7" Electric Brake Assembly for 2K to 2.2K Axles - RH

Video of Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Kit - 7" - Left and Right Hand Assemblies - - 2,000- to 2,200-lbs

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Kit Installation

Hi there trailer owners. Today, we're going to be taking a look at Dexter's 2000 pound brake kit. These kits covers an assembly for your entire axle so receive one for both the driver and passenger side. Just want to keep in mind when you're installing them that you've got the appropriate side that you're putting on. And this is what our brakes look like when they're installed. We just installed the passenger side because they do vary depending on how the arms are and how the pads need to apply.

We have what's called the leading trailing setup here. So our leading pad is our smaller pad. And this one has a little bit different friction property than our trailing one here. So it grabs a little bit harder. It actually forces the larger surface area pad here into the drum to do most of the stopping work on this one.So it is important you've got the correct one installed on the correct side to get proper braking.

These are rated for 2000 pounds so it's perfect for our small pop-up camper here with the smaller axle. It does come with everything that you see here. So you are going to get your shoes and everything's going to be assembled for you. So it just slides on. And that's one of the best things ever.

If you have ever worked with drum brakes before you know that these springs in here, they're in there pretty tight, under a lot of tension, and there's quite a few of them in there and getting them out and changing just the shoes can be quite a task. So being able to just slide a whole assembly on and bolt it down greatly minimizes the amount of time you're going to be out here. So here we have our new assembly here.We're getting ready to slide it on. Your wires are going to be kind of wrapped around in there make sure you get those out. They do need to be on the outside so we can lift them back up.

We can take a quick look at our new unit here before we put it on and you can see we've got nice new shoes on each side, the pads are bonded on them, which a bonded pad is going to be much better, a bonded shoe because you have rivets that go through there as the pad wears down, eventually that rivets going to expose itself, and then it can dig into your drum. With it being bonded you're going to get the entire meat of that pad life until you get down to the metal here. So you get much more out of it. The magnets down here in the bottom's what applies our brakes when it receives power down the wires, it energizes the magnet which grabs on our drum, which causes our shoes to extend outward to apply breaking.Here at the bottom we've got our adjustment wheel for adjusting the brakes. Now they are designed to automatically adjust, but with most of the time with these features, they typically only adjust when you're backing up. And if you don't have enough force, when you hit the brakes when you back up, it doesn't really adjust. That's just kind of how most drums are. Most drums, the auto adjusters just not the most reliable thing. So there are access ports here on the backside so we can get in there and adjust those manually if we ever need to.We're going to be replacing our brakes on this unit, because they're no longer operational. In addition to that, we're going to be replacing the hub because it's best to replace them both as a pair to ensure you don't have any premature wear from the damage that may have been caused by the previous part. We'll begin our installation by jacking our trailer up so we can rotate the tire. I just use the floor jack on the frame and then put some jack stands under to hold it up. And we're going to use our socket to remove all the nuts. We're using a 21 millimeter on this one but it's going to vary likely depending on your trailer.Now that we've got all those removed, we can just slide the tire off. So here we've got our old hub. We're going to start removing this now. I went ahead and set a rag down here because it is going to get quite messy. There's a lot of wheel bearing grease in here. The cap here on the end's the first part we needed to take off and we can do this actually just with a rubber mallet, kind of tap it on the side there. Just kind of work it off.Now that we've got it removed, we'll have our nut on the inside with the cotter pin. So we're going to take off our cotter pin. I like to start with a screwdriver just to get those pushed away a little bit, and then we can take our pliers and bend those down. It's good if you straighten them out just a little bit, it'll make it a little bit easier to get this pin pulled out, you can get those little straighter. And a lot of times you can use a smaller screwdriver on top and get it in the little islet here at the top and you can pull it out if you can't get it real straight.So this one here, we're having a little bit difficulties getting it straight, just because of the way it's moving in there. So we're just going to grab a small screwdriver and stick it in that islet and we can pull it up from there. So we're just going to poke our screwdriver in there and you can see you can just kind of pry it out, if you're having a difficult time. Want to make sure you save all your parts. We can then remove our nuts. I like to use pear channel locks because it's not on there very tight.And I'm just going to grab it and twist it off. Our hub now can slide off, but our outer bearing's right there. So I like to take a screwdriver and just put it here on the edge. And then when I pull out, it'll catch that bearing and we can see here that it does like some moisture's entered in there. It's got kind of a rusty color to it it's no longer just your black or red grease that you would normally find in there. There has been a little bit of moisture intrusion on this one.So we're going to slide it the rest of the way off now. And this whole assembly here, we can go ahead and just set this aside. We're going to be replacing this. So now we've got our brakes exposed on the inside so we can start removing those. I recommend getting some of this grease out of the way before you start removing everything that would help minimize the mess. And our bolts that hold our brakes on are actually going to be found on the other side, even though we've got these off, these are our studs here. So we're going to head around to the other side and remove those nuts using an 18 millimeter socket and wrench.For the lower ones, you may find that a socket doesn't really fit in there. So you may need to use a wrench to get these ones off down here. And once your last nut is removed, we have two wires that are still attaching it so we're going to want to make sure we cut those. Here's our wires here. We're just going to cut them on the other side of their connectors here. And now the whole unit will just slide right off and we can set this aside.So now we can take our new assembly here. We're going to just slide it around. The studs in the backside are going to poke through the holes on our axle there. And then we'll use the nuts that come included with our new brakes and install those on the backside. Just line up your nuts with those studs and then just re-install them. They should be the same size as our old ones. So we're going to tighten them down with our 18 millimeter socket and wrench. Now we can go back and snug these down. Now we can go back and torque our hardware to the specifications found in our instructions. We're going to hook up our wiring. So the two that we had cut over here, we're going to strip these back.And we're going to be connecting these using heat shrink butt connectors, which you can purchase here at So if you are planning on doing this, you can go ahead and add those to your cart. Now that we've got those stripped back, we're going to take the wires from our unit over here, and we're going to connect those to them. Now I know those are, you see a white and a blue wire there. It doesn't matter which one you're hooking it to. One needs to be power. One needs to be ground. It doesn't matter to the electric brakes, which one it is. It'll still magnetize and work properly.So we're just going to grab one of those wires, slide our heat shrink butt connector on it. We're going to crimp it down and we're going to come over to one of our other wires, like give him a little bit of a twist. It just makes it sliding the butt connector a little easier. Slide that guy up in there and then crimp it down. Well then repeat this for our other wire. We can then use a heat gun to shrink down our butt connectors. This will keep out any moisture, ensuring a long lasting connection.Now that we've got our brakes installed, we're going to move over to our hub here. The new hub has the races pre-installed. So we're going to start with our bearings. We're going to go ahead and get those greased up. We're going to use our grease tool here. You can get one like this here at and this is going to make the job go a lot faster, so much easier to grease them with this than it is by using your hand and smashing the grease down in there. It's a little bit more effective in here and it does help minimize the mess. Now this whole unit here has been pretty heavily used so the amount of mess we're going to minimize here's probably not as much as you would at home if it wasn't being used regularly in a shop every day. And we're just using wheel bearing grease on this, you can also pick that up here at now that we've got our bearing fully packed, we're going to drop it down in the backside, clean up some of the stuff on our hands and then we can install the seal here on the backside to hold this bearing in place. So now we can put our grease seal in. Now, if you're working with grease, it's not a bad idea to wear gloves if you're unsure because some people do report that they have irritation from it. I've been working with it with a long time and I haven't noticed anything, but if you have sensitive skin, it is something to consider. Our seal here does have an inside and outside. This side's going to go towards the inside, towards our bearing, set the cavity with our seal. And then here's our outside. It's got the metal surface here on top. That's just going to drop right down there and then we're going to drive it in. The easiest way to drive this in is to just use a block of wood.A two by four works great. We're just going to set that on there and then just tap it down. We're trying to do it evenly. So it sets down nice and easy. Nice and even. And we're just feeling around the edges now. We just want that seal to be flush and it's nice and flush now. So that's fully installed. Our other bearing will need to be packed. So we're going to go ahead and pack that bearing. And then I also like to take some, the excess grease here and smear it on our axle. This helps make everything slide together a little bit easier. Just put a little bit around there. Try not to get any on the other side of your grease seal there because we want all this. we don't want any grease getting into where our breaks are. We'll now take our whole assembly here and we're just going to lift it into position. Try to be careful not to nick the seal on your shaft there when you're going on.And that's what we're looking for right there should just slide right on. We can then take our other bearing. We want the smaller diameter of the taper to go in this time and then we can go ahead and clean up our nut and re-install that. Just get that old grease off there. You don't have to get a 100% of it off of there you just get the both of it off of there. And we'll just snug this guy down and I'm just going to tighten this with the channel locks like we did before. And this guy, what we're going to do first is we're going to fully tighten it down. I like to rotate the hub as I'm doing this just to make sure it gets all the way seated.You should feel your hub getting tighter as you get it nice and tight. It's pretty tight right there. And now we want to back it off. We don't want it to actually be that tight. We're just ensuring that our bearings are fully seated. So we're just going to back it off until it's loose. Nice and loose because if you remember when we took the nut off the first time, the nut wasn't even really that tight to begin with. So we're just going to turn it until it touches and then we can re-install our cotter pin. So now we're just going to slide our cotter pin down in there. Sometimes you got to kind of tap it down in there if it's a little beat up. We do have cotter pins available here at if you want to replace it. In most cases, you can just reuse it it's fine, but there have been. If it's an older trailer and it's been maintained several times that cotter pin may be wore out.And we're just going to bend these back towards the center like they we're before. We can now take our cap. We're going to just set it in place and our rubber mallet can tap it back on. Sometimes the newer caps here can be a little bit tricky to get them started because you don't want to bend up your cap real hard tapping on it. So pick a screwdriver on the outer lip on the side, that's kind of sticking out. You can get just one side to start and it usually taps in pretty easily after that.And then at this point if we had E-Z Lube axles, you would want to fill those up as much as possible. You don't want to have it come out, but you want to fill it up till see it coming out of your bearings to ensure that you've got it fully packed. We're just going to be putting ours back on. We don't need to add grease just here inside this cap that doesn't do us any good. And now we can go ahead and reinstall our tire. We're replacing our tires as well. You can get tire and rim assemblies here at that are pre-balanced. Our old one was dry, rotted and had some wear on it. So in order to ensure that we're not going to have any problems when we go on our next trip, we've got nice new brakes, rims, and tires.You want to tighten down your wheels in a star pattern. Before we torque these, we're going to go ahead and adjust the brakes because we need the trailer to be back on the ground when we torque them. But we needed to be able to rotate it to properly adjust our brakes. At the bottom here, the Oblong Cutout is going to give you access to your adjuster. So we can go ahead and spin this to bring our brake pads out until we've got just a subtle drag. Right now, as we spin it we feel absolutely no resistance whatsoever. So we're just going to turn that little star with our screwdriver here. You can just push on one of the little ears of the star to rotate it.They also make brake drum tools that have a little angle to them that work a little bit better than a flat bladed screwdriver, but a flat blade screwdriver will work in most instances. And we've now turned it into the point where we've got just a slight drag on it. Before when we spun it around, you could hear a little bit of noise, but you didn't feel any resistance whatsoever. And now when we spin it around, you'll see the tire stops much faster than it was before. And every time it goes around, there's a little spot where there's a very slight amount of resistance and that's our pads touching. And that's where we want it to be because these don't move very much. They need to be close in order to properly apply themselves.So now that we've got this side on and adjusted, the only thing left to do before we lower it down and torque everything is to put the little covers into those Oblong holes in the back. So we're just going to go back and pop these in place. They just push right in. We can then go back and torque our wheels to the manufacturer's specifications. We're going to repeat these same procedures over here on the driver's side and that completes our look at Dexter's 2000 pound replacement brake kit.

Customer Reviews

Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Kit - 7" - Left and Right Hand Assemblies - - 2,000- to 2,200-lbs - 23-47-48

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (43 Customer Reviews)

7" x 1-1/4" Driver's-side and passenger's-side electric trailer brake assemblies fit 2,000- to 2,200-lb axles. Mounting flanges have a 4-bolt pattern. Fit 10" to 13" wheels.


Put them on my Triton dual tandem jet ski trailer to provide a little stopping power rather than the constant slam forward and back on the hitch receiver. I have them mounted on the front axle with 13” rims, setup works exactly how I expected.


Perfect match! The brakes work excellent! Great product. My original brakes were the exact ones and they lasted me eight years with no troubles.

Excellent! I use my trailer all the time, the brakes work awesome.
Robert - 08/31/2021


The service you guys provided is great. Dexter brakes can use improvement though. I'm sure I'm not the first one to notice. The drum/ bearings/ seal package had the seal bent some from the way it was packaged using plastic wrap. I straightened it out and used it - it will be fine. Hopefully the brakes will work well. Thank you and God bless.


After receiving the correct parts for my trailer ( ordered the wrong parts and contacted customer service that did an excellent job helping me out!!! Got the correct parts) over all experiences, installation is straight forward, customer service is excellent and professional!!


etrailer products and service are excellent! With their helpful videos and staff (plus a little help from Curt Manufacturing and our teardrop trailer manufacturer (CampInn)) I was able to install electric brakes on the trailer, and a controller in my vehicle by myself. I had never installed electric brakes before. Everything works perfectly!


I had these ordered from another supplier that did not have inventory and did not know when their shipment would arrive. I had a trailer torn apart and needed to finish it. etrailer had the parts, shipped them immediately, and the job is complete and the customer is happy. Thanks etrailer!!

Great. I was redoing a 4 place snowmobile trailer. New lights, wiring, brakes and hubs. Trailer is like new thanks to your parts.
Dennis H - 10/23/2021


Factory Dexter parts for my snowmobile traile that include the backing plate nuts/ lock washers and rubber plugs. Shipment was received in a few days. Price was significantly cheaper than from other companies (which don't include the fasteners).


I purchased the Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Kit, the Drum assembly, a Draw Tite controller, and the install kit. An upgrade to my newly purchased camper which came with no brakes. All parts were of high quality, well packaged and arrived in excellent condition. Customer support was first class, taking me through the purchase process item by item assuring I had all items necessary for this task.

Instructions were good, but I recommend checking the online version for more detail. No issues at all installing the new equipment. High marks for Performance is very good.

After one year and over 2000 miles of use, no problems at all. Again, high marks.
Lee - 01/30/2020


Great quality and easy to install , I would recommend these replacement brakes to anyone needing to replace their trailer brakes and did I mention low price for made in the USA !

Easy to install and works great , would buy again !
Connie T - 04/24/2019


good quality. havenotusedthem


Great experience so far. This item was shipped very promptly and out of curiosity what if i got the wrong size ?

If you bought the wrong size, then customer service can send you a return label and you can order the correct one.
-- Etrailer Expert Sierra K - 09/28/2021


Kits were fairly easy to install and seem to work fine so far.


I have a Triton ATV trailer and a hunting cabin in the mountains of WVA. Years of travel to the area did a number on the brakes because we cross a creek several times on the way in. Your replacement brakes were a great product, easy to install, work great , and were very reasonably priced. I'm very satisfied with the product.


First shipment had a poorly assembled RH Brake assembly. After making a call and sending some pics, customer service promptly sent out a replacement. No complaints from me. Manufacturing defects happen. Customer service was awesome!


Product was delivered on time and with no quality problems. Worked great the first time.


I installed this equipment on my pop up camper to resolve a brake rumble problem. It turns out my old parts did not include a double lip seal. When I would grease the bearings through the EZ lube axle, the grease got past the seal and into the brake drum, causing the rumbling when I would hit the brakes. The double lip seal from etrailer solved that problem. A double lip seal is highly recommended with an EZ lube axle. Thanks etrailer!


Excellent service and product! Placed order around noon and it showed delivery in about 5 days, which was good. Got notified that evening it was processed and SHIPPED! Received it exactly 48 hours after I placed the order. Now that’s what you call service! Ordered electric brakes and drums for a 2000lb axle, on a 1994 Jayco King pop-up trailer. Converting it from a hydraulic to electric brake system. The parts fit perfectly. Thank you for the service. Loved your videos on installing and pairing the brake units and drums to use, very helpful. I will definitely be ordering from eTrailer in the future.


On the first order for trailer brakes, I did not consult the etrailer professsionls, and had order the wrong size brake assemblies. They arrived quickly, it soon became obviously that I had messed up. I called etrailer, talked with a representative about returning part, got a shipping lablel out in email to mail the parts back for a refund. Talk with a sales person to order and get the size that is needed for my trailer with about a week turnaround time. Pleasant service, timely delivery, and good selection of parts at reasonable prices.


Had everything required. Replaced old hardware with new in 20 minutes. Came on date that company said it would.I will keep using E-trailer.


So far everything looks like it should bolt right up


Great product, easy installation.


Product description and dimensions were as described. Easy to install and adjust. Appreciated the labeling of right and left side. Interior packaging of parts was also helpful.


Direct replacement for my 2000lb axle on my smaller Starcraft tent trailer. Easy, quick replacement job. Great quality.


oem part fit as they should , excellent quality will order from etrailer again, super fast customer service


oem part fit as they should , excellent quality will order from etrailer again, super fast customer service

Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this Dexter Axle Trailer Brakes

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  • Replacement Brake Assemblies for 2010 Coleman Pop-Up Tent Trailer
    For your Coleman pop-up camper, it looks like you have 7 inch assemblies. I recommend the Electric Trailer Brake Kit - 7" - Left and Right Hand Assemblies - 2,000 lbs # AKEBRK-2. These will mount directly to your 4 bolt brake flanges on your axle for an easy installation. It looks like you currently have Dexter brake assemblies, so if you want that brand then I recommend the Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Kit - 7" - Left and Right Hand Assemblies - 2,000 lbs # 23-47-48. I've attached...
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  • Choosing Between Dexter Axle and Axle-Tech Replacement Brakes for a 2009 Palomino Pony Pop-Up
    Both the Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Kit # 23-47-48 and the Electric Trailer Brake Kit # AKEBRK-2 are excellent options to replace the brake assemblies on your 2009 Palomino Pony pop-up camper. A lot of the Dexter Axle kit price comes from the name in all honesty. This is mostly because they have been around for a long time and they really know what they are doing so you can trust their quality. The brake kit that we sell is made by Axle-Tech which is also a great company it just isn't...
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  • Replacement 2,000 lb Electric Brakes For AL-KO 8440 Axle
    We do have what you need, as your AL-KO 8440 is a 2,000 lb axle with a 7 inch drum, so the correct replacement electric brakes and mounting hardware are the following: - Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Kit - 7" - Left and Right Hand Assemblies - 2,000- to 2,200-lbs # 23-47-48 - Mounting Hardware for 7" Brake Assemblies # BRKH7
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  • Coil Resistance of Dexter Axle 7" Brake Assembly Kit
    I reached out to my contact at Dexter Axle and she said that the Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Kit # 23-47-48 have a coil resistance of 3.9 ohms per magnet. When it comes to wire size we recommend at least 10 gauge wire like part # 10-1-1 (sold by the foot) for brake assemblies.
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  • Can New Dexter Electric Trailer Brakes be Installed and Used on a Boat Trailer
    Modern electric brakes such as # 23-47-48 work fine on boat trailers . . . as long as you unplug the trailer before getting the boat in the water. But even then the way the magnets are made now getting submerged won't short them out. It is the wiring you have to be careful with. That is why I recommend using heat shrink butt connectors such as # DW05745-10 to seal out water when connecting the brake magnet wires to the trailer wiring.
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  • Can Dexter 2,200 Pound Electric Brakes Be Installed Upside Down
    You can technically install the Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Kit # K23-103-104-00 (which includes both of the assemblies you mentioned) upside down but it is going to negatively affect their braking performance. With them in this orientation you just aren't going to get the type of power/response when hitting the brake pedal that you otherwise would with them installed correctly. Also note that if you do decide to go this route you will still want to keep the assemblies on the correct...
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  • Determining Correct Electric Brake Assemblies for 2,200 Pound Axles on Viking Pop Up Camper
    As long as you have 7 inch x 1-1/4 inch drums on your newly acquired trailer, there is no reason you can't install the Dexter Electric Brake Kit # 23-47-48 for 2,000 Pound Axles instead of the # K23-103-104-00 that you referenced for 2,200 Pound Axles. Both brake assemblies are the exact same size, are compatible with 10, 12 and 13 inch wheels, and feature a 4 bolt mounting flange pattern. You will just want to make sure this bolt pattern matches up to your existing mounting flanges....
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  • Solution for Needing New Brake Springs, Pads, and Magnets for Dexter 2,000 lb Axles
    Since we don't carry the spring kit you need and you are wanting to replace the magnets and brake pads as well your best option would be to go with the new brake assembly set part # 23-47-48.
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  • Lift Kit that Fits Trailer with Dexter Torflex 2,400 lb Axle
    Since we know your Dexter Torflex axle is a 2,400 lb axle that would mean that it's a number 10 and the lift kit part # K71-707-01 would be what you'd need. The brake assemblies part # 23-47-48 would also be the correct parts as well.
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