RV Propane Troubleshooting

Common Propane Issues and How to Solve Them

Propane is the most versatile system in your RV; it’s also the one you rely on the most for day-to-day tasks. So, when your propane system fails, what does that mean for you? It means you may not be able to cook, have hot water, keep your food cold, or even keep yourself warm.

Knowing why you’re experiencing propane failure and how to fix it will save you time, money, and a whole lot of stress (and I think it’s safe to say we all need a little less stress). Time to fix these propane issues and get back on the road so you can continue your adventures!

What issues are you experiencing?

RV Propane Isn't Flowing
RV Propane Fridge Isn't Working
RV Propane Heater Won't Light
RV Propane Hose Leak

Problem: RV Propane Isn't Flowing

If your propane isn't flowing properly, you won't be able to get a lot of things done in your RV, especially if you're without shore power. Let's dive into 4 common culprits for why your propane isn't flowing and how to troubleshoot them:

Possible Reason #1: Propane Valve is Off

I know it seems obvious, but when your propane isn't flowing, the first thing you should check is that your primary valve is turned all the way on. You may have switched it off when you stopped at the gas station to fill up your propane tanks, and just forgot to switch it back on—it happens.

The valve may also seem like it's turned on, but things like cold weather or dried-on paint can prevent the valve from fully opening. It's important to make sure that the valve is completely open so propane can flow properly.

Possible Reason #2: Excess Flow Valve Engaged

If your primary valve is fully open and you still don't have propane flowing, the next thing you should check is your excess flow valve. This valve is located in the center of the gas fitting and will limit or stop the flow of propane in your RV if it decides there's an issue. If your excess flow valve is engaged, you're going to have problems.

There are 2 common reasons why your excess flow valve is preventing propane from flowing: a propane leak or your primary valve being opened too quickly.

Propane Leak

It's possible you have a leak in one of the propane lines or fittings. The first thing you should do is turn off the primary valve immediately, then make sure there are no sources of heat or flame on in your RV, which includes the engine.

If you suspect a leak is the culprit, we recommend getting your RV to a repair shop right away. You may be able to smell where the leak is coming from, or even spot a frayed line, however, the safest and most reliable way to fix a leak is to take it to a professional.

Valve Opened too Quickly

If the lines were empty and you turned the propane valve too quickly, this can trigger the excess flow valve to stop propane flow.

In this case, we recommend closing the propane valve completely for a few minutes. After some time has passed, SLOWLY start to turn the valve (and I mean painfully slow) until you hear propane start to flow. Stop at this point, wait another 30 seconds or so, and then continue to slowly open the valve completely. If this doesn't work, double check that your hose fitting is correctly installed, which can also cause propane not to flow.

Mechanical failure may also be another reason why your excess flow valve is preventing the flow of propane. If you've followed the steps above and slowly opened the valve, but still don’t hear propane flowing, the flow limiter may be defective and need to be replaced.

Possible Reason #3: Propane Regulator Needs Resetting or Replacing

Your regulator can restrict propane flow if it senses too much gas moving through the system at one time. It is possible to reset the regulator in this case simply by turning off all the appliances in your RV, closing the valve on the tank, and waiting until the regulator resets the safety feature (typically at least 5 minutes). If this doesn't resolve the issue, and you’ve tried all the other solutions in this list, you probably need to replace your regulator.

Because your regulator undergoes quite a bit of stress throughout its lifetime, eventually you will have to replace it. Here are some common signs that will tell you if your regulator needs replacing:

Orange or weak yellow flame on stovetop
Popping sound when turning on/off burner
Flames that float above burner ports
Flames present at burner air intake

Possible Reason #4: No Power to Propane Detector

If your solenoid valve is linked to your RV's propane detector, it's possible that your detector has a wiring issue (loose or broken wire) or your RV battery is dead/needs charging. If it's a wiring issue, it may be best to call a professional.

RV Propane Fridge Isn't Working

If your fridge runs off propane/electric, you may experience issues when running the fridge off propane. To check if the issue indeed stems from the refrigerator's propane function, disconnect your RV from any shore power source. Then, try to turn on your gas stove. If the stove lights and the refrigerator still does not work, then you can be sure it's an issue with the fridge's propane function.

There are 6 main reasons why you may be experiencing RV fridge propane issues, which we'll discuss below.

1. Propane levels are low

Check your propane levels to make sure that you have enough propane to light all your appliances.

2. Refrigerator valve is closed

To make sure your refrigerator's propane valve is all the way open, check inside the back compartment and make sure the valve is sitting horizontally.

3. Reset button is pushed

Some propane/electric refrigerators have a reset button that can be engaged if the refrigerator gets too hot. Make sure the button is not pressed, and if it is, just reset it.

4. Wiring short/damaged wire

If there is no spark or flame inside the refrigerator's burner assembly when you turn it on, then it's possible there could be an issue with the wiring. Most likely there is a short or a damaged wire. If you are not experienced with refrigerator wiring, we recommend calling a professional in this case.

5. Soot and debris buildup in burner, preventing the fridge from lighting

If you look inside the refrigerator compartment, you might be able to see built-up soot and debris. Depending on what type of refrigerator you have, you might be able to knock it out by firmly tapping on the burner tube assembly to loosen up the debris. You can then use compressed air to blow out and clean any remaining soot/debris.

6. Propane regulator is bad

If none of these are the issue with your refrigerator, it's most likely just an issue with your propane regulator, and you may have to end up just replacing it.

Common signs that will tell you if your regulator needs replacing:

Orange or weak yellow flame on stovetop
Popping sound when turning on/off burner
Flames that float above burner ports
Flames present at burner air intake

RV Propane Heater Troubleshooting:

Before you attempt to fix any issues, there are 3 things you should do:

*IMPORTANT* Turn off propane and clear lines. To clear the propane lines, make sure your propane valve is all the way off, then turn on a gas appliance, such as your stove, until the flame goes completely out.
Find out the model number of your furnace so you can view its specific manual (typically online) and see the manufacturer's sequence of operations for how it should function. This will help you determine in which order the functions should happen when you turn on your heater.
Take apart the heater so you can see inside.

Below are 3 common issues that occur in RV propane furnaces, along what may be the cause:

1. Furnace blowing cold air

Inside your furnace there's a switch called the "sail switch," which is triggered when the fan starts blowing enough force and which then activates propane flow. RV furnaces typically take 15-30 seconds to start blowing warm air, so if you wait that amount of time and there is still only cold air being blown, then there's probably an issue with the sail switch. There's usually 2 main culprits for your sail witch preventing hot air from blowing: low battery voltage or dirty sail switch.

If there isn't enough voltage coming from the battery, then the fan won't trip the sail switch and no propane will flow (which means no heat). In this case, we recommend testing your house batteries with a multimeter to make sure they're getting sufficient voltage (typical RV furnaces require 12 volts).

If your batteries are providing proper voltage, and the motor starts blowing, but there's still no hot air, then we recommend checking your sail switch to make sure there's no dirt/debris buildup, which could cause it to fail.

2. No spark or flame after sail switch activated

If the sail switch activates (you can usually tell if it's activated by listening for a click and the flow of propane), but you don't see any spark or flame when it's tripped, then you know one of these issues is the cause:

Electrode may be bad and need replacing
The control board/module may be bad and need replacing
Furnace valve isn't opening

For the issues listed above, we recommend checking your manual or with a licensed professional to confirm if one of these components are defective or need replacing.

3. Flame comes on, then turns off after a few seconds

If you see the flame ignite, but the unit turns off after a few seconds, then it may be an issue with the electrode. The electrode senses the flame and sends that information to the motherboard. We recommend checking to see if the electrode is in good condition and clean/undamaged.

If the electrode is clean and undamaged, then it's probably an issue with the module/motherboard, and you'll need to replace it. If you’re handy and have experience with wiring/appliances, this should be a do-able install. However if you don’t have much experience, we recommend taking your furnace to a trusted RV mechanic.

RV Propane Hose Leak

Propane leaks can lead to very dangerous situations and should be taken care of immediately. If you suspect there is a leak, make sure the propane valve is fully closed and do not turn it back on until the leak is repaired. We always recommend taking your RV to a certified technician for propane leak repairs.

If you smell propane odor inside your motorhome, or if the LP leak detector is chirping:

Distinguish any open flames and make sure all appliances are OFF
Shut the valve off at the source (tank) and get out
Take the RV to a certified tech and have them run tests (usually a water column test) so they can fix the issue

If you're unsure if there's a leak or not, we recommend applying a leak detector solution (soapy water works, too) to the line fittings and checking for bubbles.

Still have questions?

Give our experts a call at 800-298-8924, or contact us online. We're happy to assist any way we can!

About the Author

My journey with etrailer started in Customer Service, where I went through months of product training to make sure that I had all of the knowledge I needed to help our neighbors find a solution to any situation. I helped them with technical questions, troubleshooting, product information, and anything else they needed. Since it has always been my passion to write and express myself through words, I made the transition over to the content side of the website so I could combine my product knowledge and passion for writing.

In order to make sure that I am giving you the most accurate, current information, I am constantly doing research and talking with people who are doing what I am writing about every day. I am constantly striving to find out what questions you are asking, and to give you an answer to every one of those questions, plus answers to questions you haven't even asked yet - yes, I'm that good. Plus, I am constantly getting hands-on training with our vendors and asking them all of the hard questions, that way you can have all of the information you need before making a decision.

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Written By: Olivia M.

Jane

8/24/2024

An inspection detected a leak in our propane tank. A testing confirmed a leak in the valve stem. The parts are only $50 but they’re charging $1500 for labor (tank is partially full). I know they have to remove gas, replace valve and refill tank but I think this is overkill on pricing. I don’t know what these things average but feel we’re being taken advantage of.

Robin H.

8/25/2024

@Jane I'm not up to date on what the labor would cost for that kind of job but that does sound outrageously high. I would call around and see what others would charge for the same job, even if they aren't local. That should give you a better idea. I went ahead and attached a link below with our list of dealers. You can enter your location and use that to find some other installers and check labor pricing.

Helpful Links

installer/near-me/propane-fittings

Ejm

3/18/2023

Good article and all good trouble shooting. But I think you missed one of the most simple and common ones to the no flow question. The 'whip' hose between the LP bottle and the regulator. These hoses are rubber and in most cases are asked to turn very tight bents. I have seen many of these collapse inside and block the flow of gas.

Mike L.

3/24/2023

Great point, thanks for jumping in! It's recommended that propane regulators be replaced every 10-15 years. The pigtails (or whips) should be replaced every time the regulator is replaced.

Tony

3/17/2023

Thanks for crafting this very good guide.

Mike L.

3/17/2023

Awesome, we're glad you found it helpful!

Jerry M.

3/17/2023

I have a 30lb propane bottle and regulator at the front of the trailer that supplies the indoor kitchen stove, furnace, water heater and outdoor kitchen without a problem. I use the outdoor kitchen gas stove cooktop by connecting to a propane supply line at the rear outdoor kitchen location with a quick connect fitting. The issue I have is trying to use the same outdoor kitchen propane connection to supply propane to my propane powered duel-fuel inverter/generator. The generator will not start when connected to the RV connection. The generator will start when connected directly to a separate propane bottle with a separate regulator. Is my problem pressure related??

Splitshaft

3/17/2023

@JerryM Very likely it is both a pressure and flow problem. However, if not testing the pressure with a manometer, a specialized gauge for measuring gas pressures, it is not possible to know if the generator requires a higher pressure than the RV appliances (typically 11-inches water column) The quick connect fitting may also not be allow gas flow. I recommending checking for gas flow to the generator if the operating pressure match from the RV propane regulator and the generator propane regulators. Low flow could result in a start and die generator condition or no start, and no flow, a no start condition.

Tom D.

3/17/2023

@JerryM I'll bet it is because your generator has a pressure reducing valve on it. your connection from the tank to the RV's supply lines has already reduced pressure. You need to contact the Generator Mfr and get them to provide a part # for a straight through connection to run the generator off the low pressure supply line. 2 pressure reducers in series will prevent things from working.

Mike L.

3/24/2023

Thanks Tom! It does sound exactly like the generator isn't getting enough fuel due to the pressure valve. Checking with the generator manufacturer would be the best way to go.

See All (5) Replies to Jerry M. ∨

Tracie W.

11/21/2022

Refrigerator will work on propane with initial start up. Once it gets cool enough and “cycles” off, it will not restart. You have to push to start button on the fridge every time. What could cause this not to restart? We have replaced all of the propane parts at the back.

David B.

11/21/2022

What brand and model number is it Tracie?

Tracie

11/21/2022

@DavidB Norcold 6162

David B.

11/21/2022

OK, this sounds like the burner is dirty and or partially clogged. Could literally be a spec of dust or a spider web. Turn off the gas, purge the line and wait 5-10 minutes, gently clean the burner tube then turn the gas back on and try to relight the fridge. Let me know how that works please!

See All (8) Replies to Tracie W. ∨

Rob Z.

8/12/2022

Great ideas to fix. I'm going to try them all. I've had so many propane issues with the piece of crap 2019 Ford Okanagan Tribute I purchased. I finally got propane flowing for a year, then I decided to try my microwave which Fraserway RV (Lemonway) promised was working. Nope I had the generator going, then I hit the microwave power button and then the generator cut out and I've had no propane flow to anything since. I left Lemonway angry but they said they would call with solutions. NO call, left 4 messages, NO call back.. Been 3 months. So angry, any ideas?

David B.

8/17/2022

I may be confused here but the flow of propane is not related to your generator or the use of a microwave. It seems the microwave is just to much for the generator to handle at the same time as other things. If you have no propane flow you either have a blocked/broken line or you are empty and need a refill.

H.l. H.

7/25/2022

Does anyone have information as to Propane flow rates at high altitudes? I was told and have no evidence that Propane, will slow if not flow at all in the high country and cold weather. If this is true best ways to help with Propane flow.

David B.

7/26/2022

You are kinda on the right path, propane isn't the issue it is the lack of oxygen at high altitude that causes problems for propane powered items. If you are going to be traveling to a higher altitude, I would talk with a propone tech and see what they suggest.

Splitahsft

3/17/2023

@HlH Cold temperatures can affect the vaporization and flow of propane fuel. While propane can vaporize at -44F degrees at sea level, it also requires some heat to vaporize. If the temperature of propane fuel inside the tank is lowered due to vaporizing, and there is not enough heat outside due to cold weather to warm the tank and fuel inside, propane flow can be reduced or even stop. High altitudes of course will affect air to fuel ratios generally resulting in a rich mixture of more fuel to oxygen when good flow exists.

Mike L.

3/24/2023

Thanks for jumping in!

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