1. Trailer Hitch
  2. Draw-Tite
  3. Class III
  4. 2 Inch Hitch
  5. 4000 lbs GTW
  6. Visible Cross Tube
Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"

Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"

Item # 75673
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Trailer Hitch

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Draw-Tite 2 Inch Hitch Trailer Hitch - 75673
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Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection. Lowest Prices for the best trailer hitch from Draw-Tite. Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" part number 75673 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch - 75673

  • Draw-Tite
  • Class III
  • 2 Inch Hitch
  • 4000 lbs GTW
  • Visible Cross Tube
  • 600 lbs TW
  • Custom Fit Hitch

Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection.


Features:

  • Custom-fit trailer hitch lets you tow a trailer or carry a bike rack or cargo carrier with your vehicle
  • Computer-aided, fully welded steel construction ensures strength and durability
  • Tested Tough - safety and reliability criteria exceed industry standards
  • Easy, bolt-on installation - no welding required
    • Complete hardware kit and installation instructions included
  • Lifetime technical support from the experts at etrailer.com
  • Black powder coat finish covers e-coat base for superior rust protection
  • Sturdy, square-tube design
  • Ball mount, pin and clip sold separately


Specs:

  • Receiver opening: 2" x 2"
  • Rating: Class III
    • Maximum gross trailer weight: 4,000 lbs
    • Maximum tongue weight: 600 lbs
    • Not rated for use with weight-distribution systems
  • Limited lifetime warranty


Draw-Tite Tested Tough

Draw-Tite Tested Tough

Draw-Tite's Tested Tough program provides testing standards far superior to those outlined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), the go-to source for engineering professionals.



Each Draw-Tite trailer hitch receiver undergoes extensive fatigue testing and static testing with the ball mount that is either supplied or recommended for use with that particular hitch, thus ensuring results that are applicable to real life use. Fatigue testing is also conducted on hitches rated for use with weight-distribution systems.


In addition, Draw-Tite performs static testing on a simulated automobile, as opposed to the rigid fixture used for SAE testing, resulting in a more true-to-life scenario.


etrailer.com Technical Support

At etrailer.com we're committed to the products we sell, and to our customers. Our experienced and knowledgeable staff are available via both phone and email to address your questions and concerns for the lifetime of your hitch. The technicians at etrailer perform hitch installations on a daily basis, making them a valuable resource for do-it-yourselfers. The one-on-one, personal service you'll receive comes straight from an expert in the towing and automotive field. We've installed it, we've wired it and we've towed with it, so whatever your question, we can answer it.



75673 Draw-Tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver - Max-Frame

87568 Hidden Hitch Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver



75673 Installation InstructionsInstallation Details 75673 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2010 - 2020 Subaru Legacy

2013 - 2019 Subaru Outback Wagon

2010 - 2012 Subaru Outback Wagon excluding Sport



California residents: click here


Video of Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Installation - 2019 Subaru Outback Wagon

Today on our 2019 Subaru Outback wagon we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Draw-Tite Class 3 custom fit trailer hitch receiver, part number 75673. So here's what our hitch is going to look like once we have it installed. The crosstube is going to sit right below our bumper, but the receiver tube is the main thing we're going to see. It is a Class 3 hitch, which means it's going to give us that 2" by 2" receiver tube opening. It's going to have a lot of different options for accessories that we can mount up.The way we're going to mount any of those accessories is the hitch pin hole here on the side. It is going to accept a standard 5/8 pin and clip.

These are sold separately, and you can find here at etrailer.com.Now that secondary hole towards the back of the receiver tube opening, that's going to be exclusively for the j-pin stabilization device. This is going to work like a normal hitch pin, but then this hook is going to come in and apply pressure to the accessories so it's not going to rattle around or make any noise when we're driving down the road. Now the nice thing about this is that this is also a locking device. You can find these here at etrailer.com as well. Our safety chain connection points are going to be a plate welded in the bottom.

As you can see, we'll have plenty of room to get most size hooks on and off. The slight offset from the hitch pin means we're going to have less chance of them interfering with the pin and clip.As far as weight capacity goes, our hitch is going to have a 600 pound tongue weight, which is going to be the maximum downward force at the receiver tube. Going to be great for some of those larger cargo carriers or the large bike racks. Now as far as the towing capability, it's going to have a 4,000 pound gross trailer weight rating, which is the amount it can pull, including the trailer and everything we have loaded on it. Now with all those numbers in mind, you should always double check your Subaru's owner's manual and never exceed the manufacturer's recommended towing weight.Like to give you a few measurements.

That's going to help you whenever you're looking for accessories for your new hitch. From the center of the hitch pin hole to the outermost edge of the bumper is going to be pretty close to 5". That measurement's going to come in handy when you're looking at folding accessories to make sure you have enough clearance and that they're not going to come in contact with the rear bumper. From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening is going to be 15-1/4". Now that measurement's going to come in handy when you're looking at a ball mount to match up to your trailer to find the appropriate rise or drop.

Now that we've seen what our hitch looks like and gone over our some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed.To begin our installation, we're going to need to lower our exhaust down. But before you do, you want to make sure that it's supported so it's not going to cause any damage. I'm going to take a strap and I'm going to hook it onto a solid point. Make sure that it's going to be underneath the exhaust here so when we lower it down, it'll catch it and won't let it come down too far.On each one of our mufflers we're going to have a rubber isolator attached to a hanger that we're going to have to remove. To make it a little bit easier, I'm going to take some spray lubricant, going to spray down the hanger. Then I'll take a pry bar and just going to pry against the hanger until I can slide the isolator off just like that. We'll do that for the other side as well.Now if we move to the outside of the muffler towards the front of our vehicle, we're going to have another hanger we can spray down and slide that rubber isolator off. You want to make sure you remove both isolators from each muffler. Then if we move forward just right in front of the rear axle here, we'll have another isolator that we can remove to give us the slack we need. You want to be extremely careful because, once you do remove this one, the exhaust is going to come down a little bit. Just want to make sure the support strap is still there holding it in place. I'm going to slowly loosen the strap up so we get a little bit more room above the mufflers so we can access the frame and the heat shields on top.Now right above each one of our mufflers we'll have this heat shield. They're going to be held in by four bolts. You can grab a 10mm socket and pull those out. We'll pull the heat shield out, and we're going to hold onto the heat shield and the hardware for later installation.Underneath those heat shields we'll have these two rubber plastic type plugs in the frame. Just take a trim panel tool or a flat head screwdriver and we're going to pop those out. You want to pull both of these out on both sides of the frame rail. Now at the bottom of the frame we're going to have those two small threaded holes. That's going to be where our heat shield bolted in. If we find the forward on towards the front of our vehicle and we move just back a couple inches, maybe two inches or so, we're going to need to drill a hole so that we can have access to get our hardware in place. I'm going to start out using a small drill bit as my pilot hole, and then I'll come back and drill a hole out so I can fit my hardware in.I'm going to come back with a step bit and I'm going to drill a hole out so it's about 1-1/8". You want to periodically check to see if your hardware's going to fit. You can see that it's just a little bit too small for carriage bolt and a little bit too small for our block. We're just going to drill that out until we can easily slide our carriage bolt and block into the frame. With the access hole drilled out, again you want to make sure that your hardware fits all the way in, the carriage bolt as well as the block. Now it's never a good idea to leave exposed metal on your vehicle so I'm going to come back and use some spray paint to help prevent any kind of rust or corrosion from building up. But now that this side of the frame is done, we're going to go and repeat that on the other side as well.We're going to take our pull wire now and we're going to take the coiled end. Going to put a slight bend in it. Want to feed it into the hole towards the very back. I'm going to feed it towards the access hole. Now it's very important that you leave the tail end sticking out and have that coiled end coming out. I'll put a couple bends in it to make sure that it's not going to fall back in the frame.Now in our kit there's going to be two different spacer blocks. Right now we're going to be using the small one. We'll slide it over the coiled end of our wire and we'll push it into the frame. Then we'll grab one of our carriage bolts and we're going to thread it onto the end of the wire. We'll push the bolt, the block, and everything back into the frame. We'll pull on the pull wire till we get the bolt dropped through. We're going to do the same process for the other hole and the other side. Just the hole that's going towards the front, we're going to be using large spacer blocks. Again, just like this one, for the back we're going to be using the short ones.Now on each one of our heat shields we're going to have to trim this corner piece off. Basically, just along the seam and then cut that corner off. Now you could use a pair of tin snips, a rotary tool, or whatever you have. It's pretty thin metal. Going to be using a pair of tin snips. We'll just cut across and cut up along the seam here. We're going to do that for both heat shields, cutting out that corner section.Now if we look at our hitch, on the side plate here we'll have a large hole in the back and then a smaller hole. The large hole is where our hardware's going to drop down through. The smaller ones are going to be where our heat shield attaches at. But before we raise our hitch into position, we want to take a flat washer and we want to put it between the hitch and the frame. I'm going to place it right over the hole. Just going to take a little bit of tape and I'm going to tape it to it. That way it won't move too much but it'll hold it in place and I can still have my bolt go through. We'll do that for both sides.Now it's a good idea to get an extra set of hands. We're going to take our pull wires and we'll feed them down through the hitch. We'll lift it up into position. We'll line up the holes so the bolts come down through our hitch. We'll remove one of the pull wires and we're going to take a conical tooth washer. Want to make sure those teeth are facing towards the hitch. We're going to secure it with a hex nut. Sometimes it helps to hold the washer so the bolt won't spin and we get it started easier. But you want to make sure you get at least one in on each side so the hitch will support itself and we won't have to worry about it falling down.Once you have all your hardware loosely in place, you want to make sure that the holes in the bottom of the hitch line up with the weld nuts so we can put our heat shield back in place. Once everything is lined up, we'll come back with an 11/16 socket and snug up our hardware. Then we'll come back with a torque wrench and I'm going to torque all my hardware down to the specified amount in the instructions. You want to make sure you repeat that for all your remaining hardware. We'll take our heat shield and we'll put it back into position. We can start putting in the factory hardware. With everything torqued down, we can put our exhaust back into place. We'll slide the rubber isolator by the axle on first. That way it'll hold it up and we can get the rest of them in. Once the exhaust is all the way back up, we can remove the support strap and that'll finish up the installation. That'll finish up your look at the Draw-Tite Class 3 custom fit trailer hitch receiver, part number 75673, on our 2019 Subaru Outback wagon.


Customer Reviews

Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" - 75673

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (766 Customer Reviews)

Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection.

- 75673
by:

Pretty good fit Install time, start to finish: 2.5 hours Purpose of hitch: Mount our existing bike rack. It’s never intended to tow anything My skill level: Moderately competent. I’ll do the more strait forward work on the vehicles such as oil changes and brake work. Tools used: 2.5 ton floor jack, 4 jack stands, various drills and wrenches, straps & WD-40 My first recommendation is to watch the video before starting the install. Lots of good tips and it’s nice to see the job done completely before attempting it yourself. Pay attention to the great tips about the WD-40 and strap with the exhaust system. One small point of variance between the video and my installation was how large to drill the hole. The mechanic in the video sized it to the bolts. However, the blocks in my parts bag were slightly larger than the bolts – I had to drill to that size. I don’t have a professional garage with a lift, so I put the vehicle up on jack stands. Make sure you have a GREAT setting on the jack stands, not just “good enough”. There will be a lot of pushing and pulling on the vehicle you don’t want it falling off the stands with you underneath. I spent about 20 minutes getting it up on the stands and solid before I was happy. Another tip is to use the floor jack as an extra hand when installing the hitch. I did this job alone so there was no one else there to help hold the hitch in place while I did the first bolts. I placed the receiver on the floor jack and used that to hold the weight while I adjusted and put in the first bolts. Oh, and for the love of whatever deity you hold dear: wear safety goggles! Mandatory when drilling the frame above your head. The flying metal debris hurt when it was hitting my exposed arms, I can’t imagine that stuff hitting my eyes. Make sure you have a torque wrench so you know those bolts are tight enough. I also used thread-locker since I never want this thing loosening up. The installed hitch is very solid on the frame. It feels like a factory installed part. My wife is happy because it’s not very noticeable (her car). 539129


Comments
Its been a year. The hitch worked without issue. Several trips local and cross-country with the bike rack attached to the hitch. My Wife liked it because she retained access to the rear hatch without having to pull off the entire bike rack system if it was one of those strapped to the back window. Outside of that, shes never mentioned it, which is good: low visibility but nice utility.
Randall G - 07/08/2019

57559

- 75673
by:
2012 Subaru Outback-Wagon

2nd hitch I've bought and installed from etrailer. I will always do business with them. I always get what I want: Great and clear web site, installation directions, videos, Excellent!! shipping, wonderful customer support. If only other businesses would check to see how it's done correctly! If you need anything that etrailer can supply, GETIT!!! 403274


Comments
It works great! As far as I am concerned etrailer is THE place to go for my needs.
Smokey M - 07/08/2018

40654

- 75673
by:

First of all, let it be said that nothing trumps good engineering. My hitch and wiring harness harness arrived 2-3 days after I ordered it. Unlike others here, my shipping container was completely intact. Like others, the etrailer.com decal was crooked, wrinkled and looked silly. I removed it. The installation of the wiring harness was just as simple and the video suggests. In spite of the fact that the Molex connector was right where it was supposed to be, I could not find it right away. I used a bathroom mirror reflecting up and behind the trim panel to find it. There are some sharp edges and this may have saved a cut or two to my hand by not having to dig around for it. The hitch was also no more difficult to install that the video suggested. I strongly advise that you use a lubricant to remove the muffler hangers as they slide right off (and on again) with ease. Unlike some others, I had no problem drilling the access holes in the frame. Be sure your bits are sharp and good quality. I did however buy two plastic plugs to cap the holes and sprayed the bare metal with auto primer. One nice surprise was that the parts bag included 4 of the wire fish tapes. I planned to have to create these myself. They were absolutely perfect. I entered through my access hole and the lead end popped right through the other hole with almost no effort each time. I left the wires attached until after I positioned the hitch to the bolts. I made it easier to line the four up, install the spacer washers in the front and I also didn't risk pushing the unattached bolts up and into the frame. One word of advice: don't torque the hitch until you reattach the heat shield. Two of the heat shield screws need to pass through the hitch. If it's tight to the frame and the holes don't line up you need to loosen the hitch and reposition it. Total install time, including the wiring harness was about 2-1/2 hours. I didn't have an extra set of hands or it would have taken about 15 minutes less. It can be done alone, but it's awkward. The hitch looks great in that it's barely noticeable (and nicely recessed) under my bumper. I can't say enough good things about this product and etrailer. I saved hundreds of dollars and have the knowledge that nobody boogered up the undercarriage of my beloved Subie. 124715



- 75673
by:
2014 Subaru Outback Wagon

I received my Draw-Tite Class III 2" hitch receiver from etrailer last week. Living in Portland OR I needed to wait for a dry, relatively warm day. I have a lift in my garage and it would have been much easier to put my 2014 Subaru Outback wagon on it but the lift is occupied my other (first) car ... a 1957 Chevy Wagon. I made the preparations for installing the the hitch bolts from the inside the cargo area as suggested by others. With all the upholstery and padding out of the way, I was also able install the custom trailer wiring harness (also purchased at etrailer) in no time. BUT ... no double-sided tape was included with the harness (I had some double-sided tape at home ... no problem). A step drill and interior panel removers from HF made the job go easily. After reading other's reviews, I decided to check to make sure there were not different sized carriage bolts and nuts. I did not have that problem ... there were no nuts included in the package. No worries, I was headed to the hardware store to get the 1-1/8" panel plugs anyway. I had watched the installation video several time so it was all familiar territory when I climbed underneath. The most difficult part was removing the muffler/tailpipe hangers. The muffler came down and was moved aside. A word of caution: Wear your safety goggles or a face shield. A lot of road debris (pea-gravel, dust, etc) was waiting to fall when I loosened the heat shield. I mounted the hitch to my floor jack (strapped it down to keep it level) as mentioned by others. My wife was there to pump the jack as I guided the hitch into position and fed the bolt wires through the mounting holes. Then installed the mounting washes and nuts finger tight ... so I could align the holes for the heat shield bolts. Instead of cutting off the heat shield corner, I chose to use a hole saw to make clearance for the forward left-side mounting washer and nut. I dragged out the torque wrench to tighten everything down. That is when I realized there were no torque specs for the mounting nuts. I ran to the computer to get the tech line number. I called explained my plight and was given the information ([specs] ft-lbs). Bolts torqued, heat shield bolted back in place, and the muffler and tailpipe reattached, it was feeling of accomplishment for an afternoon project. Except for a few deficiencies (double-sided tape, nuts, and torque specs) it was an easy install for me. Very straight forward. No real surprises. I am very pleased with the results. tip: If you are doing the install in the driveway, use the box the hitch came in to lie on. 358881


Comments
Excellent!
John A - 04/05/2018

36897

- 75673
by:
Subaru Outback Wagon

Wow, this is a hard review...because everything fit up perfectly and went together exactly like the online video. I was amazed how easy it was. Took my nephew, who had never installed a hitch before, about 30 minutes for the hitch itself and about 20 minutes installing the wiring. Since the Outback had less than 500 miles on it he didn't want to break any interior plastic. I'm in a wheelchair and was getting the hitch to install a chair carrier platform on the back. It took longer to put the carrier together than install the hitch. 6029



- 75673
by:
Ford Flex

I'll echo most of the reviews for etrailer.com and say that the install guides were thorough and the ordering process was easy. Kudos to etrailer.com for providing such great information including the videos and reviews from previous installers (they helped immensely). I fed the bolts in from the trunk (as suggested by others) and found it quite easy. Do the rearmost cables first - I had to use another cable guide to meet the first and guide it through to both holes. I fed the first cable through the bottom until I could see it through the hole in the trunk, then I could hook it with the curly end of the second cable and bring it up through the trunk hole. The forward holes are easy. BTW, I drove my rear wheels on some 4x wood to give me some extra clearance while working under the car - I highly recommend this for comfort's sake. I'll also echo that if you can remove your muffler, you should. I couldn't remove mine, and while it didn't make things impossible, it just made everything on that side harder, especially dealing with the heat shield bolts. Which leads me to... I had only one issue with the product itself, which was mentioned in passing in other reviews - I had to flex the hitch to match up the heat shield hole. It was off by quite a bit and required me to flex it with tools. I couldn't bend it enough by hand even with all the other bolts left loose. Having my muffler in the way didn't help with this task either. I'll echo others to say that you should leave the hitch bolts only hand tight until you get the heat shield back in place for this reason. I also found that the hitch was thick enough that I had to get a slightly longer heat shield screw. Because of this trip to the local hardware store and the heat shield screw alignment issue, the install took me 3 hours instead of the 2 that others have been reporting. Now that it's in, I'm happy. It looks like it should and does what I need it to do. 146200



- 75673
by:
2011 Subaru Outback Wagon

Superb service and delivery. 100% recommendation for this web business. I also saved $100 over the prices of my local retailers! The installation videos are excellent. Be sure to watch the wiring harness video too; at the -4:18 mark note the 1" round black cover between the two white clip fasteners along the side of the cargo space.. There are actually two black covers on each side of the cargo space. They cover holes that give you access from above to the frame holes for the trailer hitch underneath the car. I enlarged the access holes a little with a jig saw and later pulled the mounting bolts through from the top. (the steel guide wires provided work like a champ---no risk of losing parts in the frame! ) Since I used the holes above I did not have to drill the 1 1/8" holes in the side of the frame underneath. I did my install with the vehicle on the ground. I used one jack stand in front of the driver side rear tire and had easy access to the exhaust hangers. The hitch is fairly large and heavy so I started from inside the car and ran a length of threaded rod down throug the frame holes and through the holes in the hitch. I tightned nuts up the threaded rods from below about 3" at a time and thus incremntally lifted the hitch up the rods until the it was up against the frame. That process added about 30 minutes to the install time, but it was safe and no way could I fit under the car and then bring the hitch in and lift it up. Once the hitch was up against the frame it was just a matter of replacing the threaded rods, one at atime, with the included mounting bolts. 231328


Comments
Have put the hitch no work. 100 satisfied
ttp3317 - 11/02/2016

21714

- 75673
by:
2014 Subaru Outback Wagon

Excellent fit on my 2014 Subaru Outback. I did not drill a hole underneath because the 2014 Outback has 4 observation holes in the trunk directly above the hits mounting holes covered with tape. All I need to do was enlarge them to insert the rectangular washer. Also instead of cutting the heat sheild I just drilled a hole where the bolt needs to pass..Easy installation. Took me less than 45 minutes. 111961


Comments
Are the observation holes located under the styrofoam side floor panels on either side of the trunk? If so they are secured with two plastic retaining clips - do they just pop off if you pull on them?
-- comment by: Mark W - 12/22/2014

8140

- 75673
by:
Subaru Outback Wagon

The hitch fits the Subaru Outback (2014) perfectly, and it does not stick out beyond the bumper, which is good. I would mention three things. First, it IS possible to perform a 1-man installation, fairly easily, if you have a car jack. As shown in the picture, put a bucket with a cover on the car jack and raise the hitch up. Use 2x4 scraps or anything else you have to push the rails up exactly where you want them, attach the washers and nuts, and you're done. Second, pay close attention to the backing plates for the carriage bolts. The shorter one MUST go in the rear hole and the longer one MUST go in the forward hole. Otherwise the plate in the forward hole (which is too short) will spin and you won't be able to tighten the nut. Then, everything has to come out and you start over. Bad karma. Third, to drill the 1 1/8 inch holes through the frame, go to Harbor freight Tools, or to a good hardware store and buy a step drill as shown in the picture. It will cut through the frame like butter, and cut exactly the right size hole in seconds 123592



- 75673
by:
2014 Subaru Outback Wagon

As others have posted, just can't say enough positive about my experience with etrailer. Received everything in one box in about a week after ordering online. While awaiting the shipment, I worked from the storage area inside the car and pre-drilled the access holes and located the wiring harness plug. The online video was spot-on for what to expect in mounting the hitch. I was able to do the install with the car on its wheels, no jacking or stands. For those without a floor jack, slip a piece of 2"x2" into the receiver and let it hang out the front about 6". You can then balance the hitch on your Subaru car jack, carefully slide it under the car, and slowly lift the hitch into place. Yes, a smooth, flat, level surface (garage floor) is needed for this. My only error in the install was forgetting about the tip of not tightening the hitch bolts completely until the heat shield was re-installed. As another commenter stated, the wiring harness' black box slips under the left rear corner trunk panel just fine. I zip tied the wiring harness to some holes at the top left lip of the spare tire well, ran the wire toward that wide, rubber body plug under the spare tire, cut a slit in the body plug and pushed the wiring harness through. I then used the silver metal duct tape (not gray duct/duck tape) to adhere the wire to the left rear wall of the spare well below where I had zip tied the harness and covered the harness with the metal tape until it exited through the rubber body plug (metal taped over the rubber body plug, too, to ensure water tightness). I didn't time my install, but if I'd done everything in sequence it probably would've taken the 2 to 2.5 hrs as previously posted. Thanks to all for your advice/tips and good luck to the new customers on your home install. 412513



- 75673
by:
2011 Subaru Outback Wagon

Pros: Hitch works as intended. I really like that the hitch fits pretty tight up against the bottom of the bumper. Install was pretty simple as long as you have the right tools. Both furthest back inside exhaust bushing are a little difficult to reinstall as the space it tight between the hitch and muffler. I ordered this hitch on a Saturday. The shipping label was created on a Sunday, very fast order fulfillment. Cons: A couple things I was not pleased with is the box was pretty badly damaged on both sides when it arrived. Thus the powder coated was chipped in a couple different locations. More of an issue was the hitch that was sent to me appears to have been slightly bent outwards as I was having trouble getting the forward heat shield bolts installed. With some pressure I was able to align all the holes. Recommendations: I would recommend a small install change. The instructions instructions show you how to trim the heat shield in order to clear the most forward bolt that attaches the hitch. By trimming the shield allows for it to lay flat. In lieu of cutting off the whole corner, I used a 1-1/2" hole saw and drilled a hole center of the bolt hole. I liked how this finished better than trimming the whole corner off. Overall I am happy with my purchase. I purchased this primarily to use with a bike rack. 555525



- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

The hitch arrived in only 2 or 3 days! I installed it on our brand new 2017 Subaru Outback with the help of my wife. Watching the etrailer video and reading all the reviews and comments was extremely helpful. We did this quite easily in the street in front of our house without putting the back wheels up on ramps or blocks. As many before me have suggested, (read all the comments!) I fished the bolts in from above and strongly recommend this approach. Snap off the side carpet/floor pieces. then carefully get your hand under the foam pieces and snap them up (the plastic snap fastener will fly up unless you catch it). Under the foam pieces there is a hole each side of the spare tire well covered with a circle of black tape. Remove the tape and enlarge those two holes (one on each side) to 1 1/8 inch. I used a conical pipe reamer in a brace but a step bit would work great if you have one ($44 at home depot so I used what I had). I fished the wires from below and my wife pulled the wires through the access holes from above using a hemostat (needle nose plier), slipped on the heavy steel bars and threaded the bolts onto the wires. Make sure you get the short blocks towards the back and the longer ones towards the front as per instructions. Then I easily pulled the bolts into place. Leave the wires on, put the hitch under the car, route the wires through the holes in the hitch. I lifted the passenger side up close to the bolts and my wife slid in under and held it up while I went around to the driver's side, lifted the hitch up over the bolts, pulled a wire off and put a nut on finger tight without a washer. I then quickly crossed back over and held the passenger side while my wife slipped out, got one nut on, again without a washer at first. Then I could easily put the other nuts on with washers and then get the washers under the first nuts. As others suggested I drilled a large hole in the heat shield to fit around the hitch bolt rather than cut the corner off. Worked great. line up the heat shield bolts and then tighten up all the bolts. Since the car was new and had no rust I elected to remove just the muffler-two bolts, two rubber hangers, it made the job MUCH easier but if you've got a lot of rust....maybe not. Home Depot had nice metal plugs to fit 1 1/8 which I installed in access holes with sealant. Worked great. I attached a picture of the finished plugged hole and the finished hitch So, I'm 62 have experience working on things, have fair number of tools etc. , my wife is 59 . We were able to do this quite easily but it really helped that the car was new and not dirty and rusty. Very happy all around, perfect fit, easy install, like how it is tucked right under the bumper...looks great. 399405



- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

Hesitant about installing this hitch by myself was on my mind so often between ordering it and receiving it, that I watched the EXCELLENT installation video 10 ten times to be sure I would do it correctly. I must say that anyone could do this without really any experience as long as they followed the video! WELL DONE, etrailer! I also must say that alternative ideas by other customers led me to alter some of the methods for installation. Thanks and KUDOS to those who suggested drilling from the inside top of the cargo area---much easier and safer all around! The individuals who used the idea of raising the hitch into place via a car jack also need to be commended---being the only one around on the day of installing it I thought would be a challenge, but those ingenious people with their carjack idea and picture submissions made this job a breeze! Thank you! All-in-all, not only was the price right for the hitch but the website, service, pictures, videos, AND customer submissions with their GREAT IDEAS made this event a pleasant and self-satisfying experience. Thank you, George, for emailing me with updates, etc. And, thank you, etrailer, for the positive experience! 389707


Comments
So far, I’ve had this hitch a year and all is well as can be expected. When I find that I need something for trailering, hauling, etc., I turn to etrailer first to search for options. The full array of information available for any project is tremendous. Customer reviews and tips make this site a valuable tool for those who are interested in DIY endeavors.
Scott H - 06/08/2018

39422

- 75673
by:
2013 Subaru Outback Wagon

Great quality and install went as smooth on my 2013 Outback. It took me about 90 minutes to do the install. I have dual Exhaust/mufflers and I took them both off, and I think that helped (and two heat shields needed to be cut). As an FYI the mufflers may have a gasket that could be broken in the removal process so it may be good to double check to make sure; or at least see your local parts dealer to see if they have them in stock. I used my impact drill/driver to remove the bolts on the heat shield and it went really fast. The only minor issue (my fault) is that I torqued the mounting bolts before I installed the heat shields. I had to loosen the mounting bolts up again and move the hitch slightly to get the holes to line up (which is in the directions anyhow). I was able to do the install with the car on the ground but it was a little tricky getting the hitch in place. I was able to get some help (and lip) from my teenage son and it wasn't a major chore lifting it in position and getting the nuts started, doing it myself with it on the ground would likely have been a challenge. I used undercoat spray, $5 at the local auto parts store to cover the access holes. Some said they used plugs in other reviews, but the holes are covered by the hitch and I think plugs could keep the hitch from lying flat on the frame. I am VERY happy with the looks and the functionality. As a side note, since the hitch is back from the bumper, make sure accessories (like a carrier/rack) have enough clearance from the bumper to the hitch, or order an extension etc. I am sure the folks here at etrailer wont steer you wrong if you tell them what the setback is when you order accessories. 151773



- 75673
by:
2012 Subaru Outback Wagon

I needed a hitch for my wife 2012 Subaru Outback for hauling sport bikes to track days and occasional utility hauling. A google search brought me to the etrailer site. The biggest advantage of the trailer site is the access of instructional videos and the additional resources from their previous customers experiences and advise; I found this to be most useful for installing the hitch. The quality of the products is good, the hitch had numerous chips in the paint which may be problematic for corrosion in the future, but for the price I have no complaint. The hitch appears to be the same one offered by Uhaul. The overall costs when a complete package is ordered are about the same. Regardless of the price I would and will purchase all my future trailer need from etrailer, and will recommend etrailer to future customers. Regarding installation; (read all the the customer reviews) I would recommend drilling four holes from inside the trunk area instead of two holes from the bottom up. Additionally I recommend a $10.00 hole saw instead of the $50.00 conical shaped "step drill". The hole saw worked well, even without a pilot bit. It took about 5 minutes to drill the four holes. If you have access to floor jack, use it, it made positioning the hitch into place a one person job. Use liberal amounts of lubricant to remove the three rubber muffler mounts and remove them completely from the vehicle, it makes reinstallation easier. 182060



- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

When we tried to put the hitch on the vehicle we found we were off on the bolt holes. After looking at the hitch we could see both ends of the hitch were bent. We used a ratchet strap and pull the hitch back were it needed to be to line up the bolt holes. It would be nice if the add said there was drilling required. over all the hitch looks good. 545101



- 75673
by:
Subaru Outback

I was a little intimidated by the prospect of installing this hitch, but it turned out very well in the end. Many thanks to the excellent videos at etrailer and the comments from my awesome fellow-customers. Looks great, works great, and total install time was only about 2 hours. I'm reasonably good with tools in general, but little to no auto mechanic experience. Here are a few tips I found very helpful (many of them from the other reviews). Some would have helped me decide sooner to take the plunge: 1) The hitch actually installs on four bolt holes already provided in the frame by Subaru for installing a trailer hitch. The only reason the instructions have you drilling new holes under the car is to provide a way to fish the bolts through from the top, which takes us to our next point... 2) I highly recommend drilling down from the trunk area, rather than drilling up from under the car (thanks to the other reviews for this tip!). It's not only easier, but also means your holes aren't exposed to the weather. In fact, your new holes will be entirely covered by the snap-in panels in the trunk. Other reviewers have talked about removing the bumper -- in that case you don't have to drill any holes and I'm sure it's the best approach if you're comfortable doing that. 3) You must fully remove the rubber bumper hanger that is closest to the rear of the car. It wasn't clear to me initially, and I just took the bumper off the hanger, leaving the rubber hanger attached to the car. The hitch won't fit over the rubber hanger, and you'll be in no position to deal with it once you start trying to lift the hitch into place. 4) As others have said, removing the muffler entirely is probably the best way to go. I was a little concerned about doing that, but it was easy to get off and back on. If your car is very old, it might be tougher. 5) I had a second person assist me in lifting the hitch assembly into place, and cannot imagine trying to do that by myself. Definitely get a helper! 81947


Comments
Oops - when I said bumper hanger I meant muffler hanger. Whether you remove the muffler or just it down, youll need to fully remove the rubber hanger that is closest to the back of the car.
-- comment by: Brett H - 06/02/2013

1590

Thanks for the update, very appreciated.

-- Patrick B - 6/3/2013

Comments
Wow, you did an excellent job of explaining everything you did. I agree, it sounds like drilling down instead of drilling up from the bottom of the carframe is the way to go. Once again thanks for the great job, Im ordering the hitch for our 2013 Outback today!
-- comment by: bruce v - 09/30/2013

2119

- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

Ordered Draw-Tite hitch and Curt wiring harness for 2017 Outback. Spoke with customer service before placing order to ensure I had all correct parts. Very helpful response that confirmed my ideas. Ordered Th 9/27, Delivered (to MD) Mon 10/1, with free shipping! Watched Draw-Tite install video on etrailer web-site, very helpful. Installed Tu 10/2, without much trouble. I did have to buy a #9 step drill bit to enlarge hole enough to fish carriage bolt and bar washer into frame channel. Trying to enlarge hole by other means didn't work. Able to install myself with Outback on ground, but sloped downward (rear wheels on garage floor, front wheels on driveway lower than garage floor). Used jack stands to support hitch while positioning. One tip, use a pick or other angled end tool to catch end of fish wire. Did have trouble finding wiring connector behind trim panel. Called etrailer and they verified I had correct part and instructions. Customer service suggested viewing video on etrailer web-site. I did and was then able to find wiring connector. That was hardest part of entire job! Overall very happy with parts ordered and etrailer as a supplier. 571057



- 75673
by:
2019 Subaru Outback Wagon

The hitch went on very easily. Couple of hints: use some dish soap on the rubber pieces to make sliding the exhaust hangers off easy. Also, the hitch install is a one guy installation if one uses a milk crate to hold the hitch up while getting the nuts started on the bolts (car was on the driveway, not a lift). And wear safety glasses and long gloves when drilling the 1.125 holes in the frame (a sharp hole saw makes this a 60 second operation, but the chips are hot). The hardest part of the trailer light install is getting to the factory connector. Watch the etrailer video and remove the 10 mm bolt on the forward rear tie down as another customer advised. The instructions in the light wiring harness are too vague, but the etrailer video makes up for this. 574558



- 75673
by:

First, I'd like to reiterate how great the customer service was from etrailer.com - honestly one of the best online shopping experiences I've had. On to the install...mine wasn't quite as trivial as some others, but it was nobody's fault but my own. I installed the hitch without jacking up the car which, while possible, made for very tight working quarters. I also forgot to re-install the heat shield, so had to remove the hitch completely. Typical me. All in all the install took me a couple hours. Thanks to the suggestions from others, I also went through the trunk to gain access rather than drilling a hole in the frame, which I really didn't want to do. It wasn't hard to go through the trunk, I used a step bit (also thanks to someone's suggestion) and enlarged one of the existing holes in the body. It did add some time though. It was trivial to thread the front hardware through, a little more challenging to fish it through to the back ones. I also removed the muffler, definitely made things a lot easier, especially since I didn't jack the car up. I did use my jack to lift the hitch into place, but it was still extremely nice to have a second set of hands to keep everything balanced and aligned. I'm extremely pleased with the result - the hitch is tucked away nicely under the bumper and looks great. Thanks etrailer.com! 112558



- 75673
by:
2018 Subaru Outback Wagon

Hitch came in somewhat beat up with a lot of paint chips. Hitch made to be very tough and has significant weight to it. Watching installation video made it simple to put it on. Did not drill any holes, couldn't get myself to do it to my subaru. Taking off the bumper was an easy job, added maybe 30-45 minutes to installation process. You can watch installation video for another hitch (306-X7266) which shows removal of the bumper. This allows for hitch install without drilling any extra holes. Awesome product for the price! 552822



- 75673
by:

Excellent product and easy to install if you do your homework. Arrived in 2 days with free shipping. Watched the videos on this site and read through the reviews for hints. I decided to take the remove the muffler route. The night before I hit the nuts and the isolators with some WD-40 and then did it again in the morning right before the project. I also also decided to go through the trunk to access the frame. It was a little nerve racking to remove the side trunk foam panels that are attached to the floor via some black clips. I couldn't find mention of these anywhere...not even on youtube. Anyway I went ahead and stuck a screwdriver underneath and carefully pried up until the clips released like projectiles. Not sure if this was the best way but no damage was done (I think). Took the muffler off. The nuts on the exhaust system were tough and had to pull out the 1/2 inch driver to get enough leverage. I had a much easier time removing the muffler off the rubber isolators than folks on this page seemed to have. It wasn't even that heavy and I have birdie arms. :) I then took off the heat shield. Now let's go top side. Ok the foam flooring has been removed and I take the black tape off the holes and then go under to take out the black plugs out of the frame holes. Now I can go top side and look down through the trunk holes and see the frame holes. Sweet. Ok now I get my handy dandy 1 1/8" step drill and start drilling. Rip zip and there goes my step drill bit right into the hole and into the frame. Good grief. The step drill bit wouldn't fit in my small drill (3/8") so I used a socket attachment for the bit. Well I didn't think ahead and when I drilled through all the way (metal is thin and the drill bit cut quickly) it fell right off into the frame. After a little panic I managed to get it back to the hole and use some needle nose pliers to grab a hold of it and fish it out. The remainder of the holes I stopped before loosing the bit again. Vacuumed out the shavings. Now I used the fish wire and installed the block and the bolt and then taped the washer to the underside on the frontward bolts. Using info gleaned from these reviews I placed the hitch on a jack and moved it into position. I wrangled it into position and hand tightened the rearward bolts first. When I went to do the front bolts the hitch wouldn't cooperate. It was getting hung up on the rearward muffler isolator which needed to be completely removed. After that it was a breeze to hand tightened the frontward bolts. Tightened everything with a torque wrench. Used the step drill to drill out a hole for the nut in the heat shield instead of cutting it. This worked great. Reinstalled the heat shield and reinstalled the rearward muffler isolator. Installed the muffler and the key here is lots of WD-40. Put some duct tape over the access holes in the trunk and reinstalled the foam panels. Start to finish in under 2 hours. Relaxed pace. 392438



- 75673
by:
2014 Subaru Outback Wagon

I finished the hitch install on my 2014 Subaru Outback today. It went without a "hitch" so to speak. I did the job alone (age 69) and managed it well because of some hints from previous writers. First, I drilled access holes from inside the trunk area as suggested. Remove the black adhesive dots over each hole and drill them out to 1 1/8" using a step drill (see photos 1.jpg, 2.jpg, 3.jpg). I didn't have a vacuum cleaner handy so I used a small magnet to collect all the metal cuttings. (see photo 4.jpg) I then raised the rear of the car with ramps to get easier access underneath. I took off the muffler which was not too difficult once the rubber shock-absorbers were liberally doused with WD-40. Getting it back on later was another story. That thing is heavy and it took quite a few "bench-presses" to get it up and slid onto the outboard rubber shock-absorber. After that, the inner one and the final bolt-down was a lot easier. I also removed and drilled out the heat shield to clear the hitch bolt. The step-drill was perfect for this as well. I removed the small rubber plugs from the four hitch holes under the car. The holes could then be clearly seen from above so guiding the bolts and plates into the holes using the included guide-wires turned out to be extremely easy. I used my 3 ton hydraulic jack to suspend and position the hitch. I clamped it to the jack pad using two small c-clamps. Once in position an raised up, I could easily finger-tighten the rear nuts (rear of the hitch/front of the car). Then I took off the c-clamps in order to push the front of the hitch up into place with the jack. Tightening everything down to 50 ft/lbs. finished the job. I also found some plastic snap-in covers that perfectly fit the drilled holes in the trunk. I used these to seal the holes from dirt and to give it a finished appearance. (see photo 5.jpg). Next was the wiring harness. That turned out to be a bit tricky. I searched the wheel well housing on the drivers side but couldn't feel any wires. Then I found a YouTube video from a 2011 Outback that made it clear that the carpeting behind the rear seats had to be removed as well as the long foam strip adjacent to it. It is held down with three snaps...one in the front (fixed) and two loose plugs in the back. Once this was removed I was able to find and pull out the connector. The rest was easy. Plug in the connector, thread the wire back a bit, hide the black box under the wheel well housing and continue the wire around the outside edge of the trunk and into the spare-tire area. Everything went back together nicely. I brought the hitch cable up into the foam tray where it would be easier to get when needed. I plan to run it out the tailgate and I don't at all think it will be damaged by the rubber weatherseal. 130920


Comments
I did my install the same way your did. Thanks for the instructions. Helped me out A LOT.Where did find the plastic snap-in covers for the drilled holes? Would love to cover mine up as I left them open. Thanks,Joe
-- comment by: Joe B - 07/23/2014

5875
Comments
Joe, I found the gray snap-in covers at my local hardware store in the nuts and bolts section. There are cabinets with pull-out drawers and I found them there. The ones I got said 1 but they fit the slightly larger holes just fine. I liked the idea that the holes were covered to keep stuff from falling in, especially liquid spills. If you cant find the plastic covers, just use some heavy-duty duct tape.
-- comment by: Jim H - 07/24/2014

5895
Comments
I followed Jim Hs instructions on my new 2015 Outback and it was really easy. The hitch looks great and was on in under an hour.
-- comment by: Jeff S - 04/21/2015

10994
Comments
I still absolutely love the hitch. I dont even realize its there except when I need it. I also like that it doesnt compromise the road height of my Subaru. It was easy to install and looks good too. Besides, I think it adds to the overall value of my car.It would have been perfect if it came with a rubber hitch cover-plug I bought one later. I would have liked one with eTrailer written on it!
Jim H - 05/15/2015

11719

- 75673
by:
2016 Subaru Outback-Wagon

Installed the hitch yesterday. I fit perfectly - all holes lined up well. It sits somewhat behind the bumper, so it's not overly visible from the rear. I installed it by taking off the bumper facia and bumper so that I could access the frame tubes without drilling the 1 1/8 inch holes. It took considerably more time, but we keep our cars forever and I didn't like the thought of drilling such large holes. Getting the mounting hardware in place once the bumper was off was a snap. Getting the bumper into position was an ordeal. It was just me, and I couldn't raise the car. I finally got it up and aligned using an auto jack and two jack stands to support the hitch. It's just very awkward to work with. Everything went back together perfectly and the installation looks nice and clean. I also put in a wiring kit. Left the end in the wheel well rather than stringing it through to the outside. As someone notes in comments to the etrailer Youtube video, the wiring harness doesn't just magically appear like it does in the video. You have to take off the cargo hook and cut the upper blue tape and fish it out. Other than that, there's not much to it. 263604



- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

Overall, I am very pleased with the entire purchasing and installation process, as well as the finished product. What makes this website great, is the depth of information in pictures, videos, and reviews of the different hitch options. I felt that all of this helped lead me to the choice of hitch that best fit my needs and expectations. This particular hitch is great if you don't want the installed product to protrude out too visibly, or extend out to where you would accidentally strike your shin/knee against it. The hitch tucks away nicely underneath the bumper. In theory, this could limit some choices in accessories, but the aesthetic gains more than compensate for that in my opinion. I chose to remove the bumper cover for installation, so that no drilling or wire-fishing would be necessary. I can see why the sellers don't recommend this option, as it requires reasonable amounts of finesse with the various bumper fasteners and cover. However, if you consider yourself a technical and mechanically inclined person, this is rather simple process that is fairly well described by others online. When the bumper cover is off, the hitch hanging bolts can be fed in through the "frame tubes" that are covered by the bumper. For a one person install, the most difficult thing for me was actually holding the hitch in place as I threaded the fasteners on to fasten it. Having someone supply an extra set of hands for this part would make it very simple and easy. Although we don't plan to do much actual towing, it is nice to have the option with this class of hitch, considering the respectable weight ratings. This was purchased with accessories (bike racks, etc.) in mind, but is a good value considering what the lighter hitches cost. And, it is reasonably inconspicuous when installed. 297517


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Ask the Experts about this Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch

  • Differences Between Curt, Draw-Tite, and etrailer Trailer Hitches for a 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon
    The differences that you noted are really the only difference between the Curt # C13206 and the Draw-Tite # 75673 trailer hitches for your 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon. The Curt has the round tube style but does require the support strap # 18050 for all non-trailer loads (like your bike rack) while the Draw-Tite has a square tube style and doesn't require the use of the strap. I have a 3rd option for you that combines the features that you like! The etrailer.com trailer hitch # e98847 uses...
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Brake Controller for 2018 Subaru Outback
    For a brake controller I recommend taking a look at the Curt Echo # C51180. This is a really unique controller that will simply plug into the 7-Way connector on your Outback and pair with your smartphone via Bluetooth after downloading the free app. This allows for a really simple installation and setup and eliminates the need for a separate unit to be permanently mounted inside your vehicle like other controllers. Its built-in accelerometer will activate the trailer brakes at the same...
    view full answer...
  • Does Installing EcoHitch in 2018 Subaru Outback Affect Back Up Sensors
    I attached a picture of the Ecohitch part # 306-X7266 installed by us and you can see the back up sensor on the far end of the bumper. It wasn't a problem for us at all. Removing the foam wasn't an issue either. For the money though I would go with the Draw Tite part # 75673.
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Trailer Hitch Receiver to Fit a 2014 Subaru Outback Wagon
    I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "direct fit" because all three of the Class III trailer hitch receivers we carry for your 2014 Subaru Outback are custom made and designed for your vehicle. The hitch that has the most factory-like look is the Ecohitch, part # 306-X7162. Once installed all you see is the open receiver tube under the rear bumper of your Subaru. Take a look at the picture I attached. The downside to this hitch is the install requries the bumper to be temporarily...
    view full answer...
  • Why Does Curt Require Stabilizing Straps for Hitch-Mounted Bike Racks but Draw-Tite Does Not
    The stabilizing straps are a warranty requirement that Curt recommends to help support the hitch. The strap reduces some of the tongue weight load on the hitch, reduces the tendency for attached items to move around while the vehicle is in motion, and prevents some vertical shock from being transferred to the hitch when going over bumps. Using a strap such as Item # 18050 with a Curt hitch will maintain the warranty and provide additional support. I've attached a review video that shows...
    view full answer...
  • Best Trailer Hitch for a Bike Rack on a 2019 Subaru Outback Wagon
    I do have an option for you but the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver part # 76227 will only fit a Subaru Outback Wagon up to 2018. For your 2019 Subaru Outback Wagon you will want to use the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver part # 75673 which is a custom fit that installs using pre-drilled holes in the frame rail. I have attached a sample install video for you as well. If you can tell me what type of bikes you have I would be glad to make a bike rack recommendation...
    view full answer...
  • Best Hitch Recommendations for 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon
    For your 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon the Class III hitch I would recommend is the EcoHitch part # 306-X7266 as the overall winner. It has the higher Class III towing capacities, doesn't require the stabilizer strap when carrying a bike rack like the Curt, but also because it only has the hitch opening that hangs down below the bumper so it's the least visible. It is the most expensive though so the next best option is the Draw Tite part # 75673 which is still a great hitch but it has a visible...
    view full answer...
  • Best Trailer Hitch for 2018 Subaru Outback
    I spoke with the trailer hitch manufacturer, who informed me that there are no changes on the 2018 Subaru models that should affect the fit of trailer hitches. I recommend going with the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III – 2", Item # 75673. The manufacturer confirmed this to fit the 2018 Subaru Outback. This hitch includes computer-aided, fully welded steel construction for maximum strength and durability, easy bolt-on installation, and a black powder...
    view full answer...
  • Is Draw-Tite or etrailer Hitch Better for 2019 Subaru Outback with Thule Bike Rack
    The etrailer.com Trailer Hitch # E98847 is a better option than the Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch # 75673 for your 2019 Subaru Outback for one simple reason: clearance. The hitches will be the same in terms of installation but as you can see by the linked installation video of both hitches on a '19 Outback, the etrailer.com Trailer Hitch # E98847 offers about 3/4" more ground clearance and approximately 1-1/2" more bumper clearance, both of which are important factors for carrying accessories...
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Hitch for 2018 Subaru Outback For Carrying Kuat Transfer Bike Rack
    For a trailer hitch to fit your 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon which will allow you to also use your Kuat Transfer # TS02G the Curt Hitch # C13206 would be your best option as it allows the rack to fold up unlike the Draw Tite. This is a 2 inch trailer hitch which very easily support your bike rack when it has the 2 inch hitch adapter installed. 2 inch hitches are preferred as they have higher capacities and have more accessories made for them. The Curt hitch will allow the rack to fold up but...
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Trailer Hitch for 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon
    When choosing between the two Class II trailer hitches available for your 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon, I do recommend the Draw-Tite Frame Receiver Hitch # 36493. This is because, as you mentioned, Draw-Tite does not require the use of stabilizing straps like # 18050 for non-trailer loads such as bike racks and cargo carriers, which is in part what you plan on using the hitch for. However, when looking at all of the available trailer hitches that are confirmed to fit your vehicle, I actually...
    view full answer...
  • Which Hitch for 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon is Least Visible
    From a visibility point of view the Draw Tite hitch part # 75673 will be your best option for your 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon. This hitch is also better priced. They both sit very close to the same distance from the ground. The Curt # C13206 is 15-1/4 inches from the ground and the Draw Tite is 15 inches. What really makes the Draw Tite less visible is that it is tucked in closer under the vehicle than the Curt. The Curt's hitch pin is 2-1/4 inches from the outer edge of the rear bumper...
    view full answer...

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