1. Trailer Hitch
  2. Draw-Tite
  3. Class III
  4. 2 Inch Hitch
  5. 4000 lbs GTW
  6. Visible Cross Tube
Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"

Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"

Item # 75673
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Retail:$285.70
Our Price: $191.55
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Trailer Hitch

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75673 - 600 lbs TW Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch
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In Use/Installed

Customer Photos

Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection. Lowest Prices for the best trailer hitch from Draw-Tite. Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" part number 75673 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-1624 for expert service.
  • All Info
  • Reviews (826)
  • Q & A (376)
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  • Why etrailer?

Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch - 75673

  • Draw-Tite
  • Class III
  • 2 Inch Hitch
  • 4000 lbs GTW
  • Visible Cross Tube
  • Custom Fit Hitch
  • 600 lbs TW

Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection.


Features:

  • Custom-fit trailer hitch lets you tow a trailer or carry a bike rack or cargo carrier with your vehicle
  • Computer-aided, fully welded steel construction ensures strength and durability
  • Tested Tough - safety and reliability criteria exceed industry standards
  • Easy, bolt-on installation - no welding required
    • Complete hardware kit and installation instructions included
  • Lifetime technical support from the experts at etrailer.com
  • Black powder coat finish covers e-coat base for superior rust protection
  • Sturdy, square-tube design
  • Ball mount, pin and clip sold separately


Specs:

  • Receiver opening: 2" x 2"
  • Rating: Class III
    • Maximum gross trailer weight: 4,000 lbs
    • Maximum tongue weight: 600 lbs
    • Not rated for use with weight-distribution systems
  • Limited lifetime warranty


Draw-Tite Tested Tough

Draw-Tite Tested Tough

Draw-Tite's Tested Tough program provides testing standards far superior to those outlined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), the go-to source for engineering professionals.



Each Draw-Tite trailer hitch receiver undergoes extensive fatigue testing and static testing with the ball mount that is either supplied or recommended for use with that particular hitch, thus ensuring results that are applicable to real life use. Fatigue testing is also conducted on hitches rated for use with weight-distribution systems.


In addition, Draw-Tite performs static testing on a simulated automobile, as opposed to the rigid fixture used for SAE testing, resulting in a more true-to-life scenario.


etrailer.com Technical Support

At etrailer.com we're committed to the products we sell, and to our customers. Our experienced and knowledgeable staff are available via both phone and email to address your questions and concerns for the lifetime of your hitch. The technicians at etrailer perform hitch installations on a daily basis, making them a valuable resource for do-it-yourselfers. The one-on-one, personal service you'll receive comes straight from an expert in the towing and automotive field. We've installed it, we've wired it and we've towed with it, so whatever your question, we can answer it.



75673 Draw-Tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver - Max-Frame

87568 Hidden Hitch Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver

Installation Details 75673 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles


Weight Carrying Capacity
Gross Towing Weight (GTW):
4,000 lbs.

Tongue Weight (TW):
600 lbs.


Weight Distribution Capacity
Hitch does not allow
use of weight distribution



Manufacturer Estimated Installation Time

Tech Tip

Drilling required for installation , Exhaust must be temporarily lowered for installation , Minor heat shield modification may be required




California residents: click here



Customer Reviews

Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" - 75673

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (826 Customer Reviews)

Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection.

- 75673
by:

No problems after receiving the correct hitch. The install with the correct hitch was simple, no drilling, 15 to 20 minutes to install. The hitch sits a little low on a 2020 Subaru Legacy (less ground clearance than the Subaru Outback) an can scrape on some driveway and entrance ramps. A better alternative is the hitch that is accessed through the bumper, but that is 3 times as expensive and 5 times the work involved. So, this hitch works fine.



- 75673
by:

I ordered this trailer hitch a year ago just before COVID started up. Ended up not getting it installed until later that year due to lockdowns and many plans changing. Fast-forward a year later and we just so happen to be in the middle of a cross country move using the trailer hitch. Almost to our destination and the hitch is staying strong. Its very secure and sturdy. We're pulling a 4x8 Uhaul trailer for its maiden voyage.



- 75673
by:

Since others have provided good installation advice in their reviews, I won’t repeat that here. Since I was installing mine alone I found a couple of things were useful: 1. I used a step drill bit from Harbor Freight to enlarge the frame bolt holes. I used the same bit to put a nice hole in the heat shield instead of cutting it with tin snips. It was fast easy & clean. 2. Undoing two bolts & removing the muffler was fast and made it very uncluttered. Not necessary but I’m glad I did it. 3. I left the wires I used to fish the bolts through the frame attached until I was ready to put the nut on in case the bolt got pushed back up into the frame as I wrangled an unwieldy hitch into place. 4. Having the car elevated a bit was really helpful. After reading several more detailed reviews, I found the installation pretty straightforward.



- 75673
by:
2010 Subaru Outback Wagon

Very nice hitch. Looks great under my 2010 Outback. Very heavy, sturdy and well built. Glad I read the other reviews before my install. These are the tips I gathered from other reviews and they are spot on. 1) Definitely drill your hole from the top. I used a borrowed step bit and it made short work of it. I would’ve bought one if I couldn’t have borrowed one, worked great. 2) Spray your exhaust hangers with lube before taking off and before putting back on. I just pushed up on exhaust with my hand and used my other to pull off rubber pieces. I used WD-40 for disassembly and white lithium grease for assembly. 3) I didn’t cut heat shield. I used same step bit and drilled out where the hitch bolt hits the heat shield. Worked well. 4) The hitch is heavy. I applaud other reviewers with their make shift lifting equipment. I had a helper so I lifted the hitch into place while my wife put on the washers and nuts. Basically, I got under the car and bench pressed hitch into place.



- 75673
by:

Pretty good fit Install time, start to finish: 2.5 hours Purpose of hitch: Mount our existing bike rack. It’s never intended to tow anything My skill level: Moderately competent. I’ll do the more strait forward work on the vehicles such as oil changes and brake work. Tools used: 2.5 ton floor jack, 4 jack stands, various drills and wrenches, straps & WD-40 My first recommendation is to watch the video before starting the install. Lots of good tips and it’s nice to see the job done completely before attempting it yourself. Pay attention to the great tips about the WD-40 and strap with the exhaust system. One small point of variance between the video and my installation was how large to drill the hole. The mechanic in the video sized it to the bolts. However, the blocks in my parts bag were slightly larger than the bolts – I had to drill to that size. I don’t have a professional garage with a lift, so I put the vehicle up on jack stands. Make sure you have a GREAT setting on the jack stands, not just “good enough”. There will be a lot of pushing and pulling on the vehicle you don’t want it falling off the stands with you underneath. I spent about 20 minutes getting it up on the stands and solid before I was happy. Another tip is to use the floor jack as an extra hand when installing the hitch. I did this job alone so there was no one else there to help hold the hitch in place while I did the first bolts. I placed the receiver on the floor jack and used that to hold the weight while I adjusted and put in the first bolts. Oh, and for the love of whatever deity you hold dear: wear safety goggles! Mandatory when drilling the frame above your head. The flying metal debris hurt when it was hitting my exposed arms, I can’t imagine that stuff hitting my eyes. Make sure you have a torque wrench so you know those bolts are tight enough. I also used thread-locker since I never want this thing loosening up. The installed hitch is very solid on the frame. It feels like a factory installed part. My wife is happy because it’s not very noticeable (her car).


Comments
Its been a year. The hitch worked without issue. Several trips local and cross-country with the bike rack attached to the hitch. My Wife liked it because she retained access to the rear hatch without having to pull off the entire bike rack system if it was one of those strapped to the back window. Outside of that, shes never mentioned it, which is good: low visibility but nice utility.
Randall G - 07/08/2019



- 75673
by:
Subaru

After watching the install video a couple times, I had enough confidence to install myself, saving me $$$. Installation was pretty straight forward. Rear of car was high enough to get under by just backing rear wheels in garage. No need for a jack or jack stands. I would definitely recommend eye protection for falling rust, road dirt and hot metals shavings. Be sure to have a sharp drill to cut through frame. If you don't, I would recommend picking one up before you start (about $10). After drilling, everything else went as expected. It's a help to have someone hand you what you need while under the car instead of constantly crawling under and out for supplies. The install took about 2 hours, taking our time. I haven't used it yet but it looks great tucked away under bumper. Also, I would recommend getting the Subaru wiring harness if towing, its just plug and go! No splicing involved. Also another great video from etrailer! Thank you for the great videos, it made install easy!


Comments
A year later, we finally took our first road trip. I attached a two bike, bike rack to the hitch. It performed great. I am very happy with my investment. The money we saved on the bike rental paid for the hitch. This was a great investment. Thank you!
Bob - 09/16/2020


- 75673
by:
2014 Subaru Outback Wagon

I finished the hitch install on my 2014 Subaru Outback today. It went without a "hitch" so to speak. I did the job alone (age 69) and managed it well because of some hints from previous writers. First, I drilled access holes from inside the trunk area as suggested. Remove the black adhesive dots over each hole and drill them out to 1 1/8" using a step drill (see photos 1.jpg, 2.jpg, 3.jpg). I didn't have a vacuum cleaner handy so I used a small magnet to collect all the metal cuttings. (see photo 4.jpg) I then raised the rear of the car with ramps to get easier access underneath. I took off the muffler which was not too difficult once the rubber shock-absorbers were liberally doused with WD-40. Getting it back on later was another story. That thing is heavy and it took quite a few "bench-presses" to get it up and slid onto the outboard rubber shock-absorber. After that, the inner one and the final bolt-down was a lot easier. I also removed and drilled out the heat shield to clear the hitch bolt. The step-drill was perfect for this as well. I removed the small rubber plugs from the four hitch holes under the car. The holes could then be clearly seen from above so guiding the bolts and plates into the holes using the included guide-wires turned out to be extremely easy. I used my 3 ton hydraulic jack to suspend and position the hitch. I clamped it to the jack pad using two small c-clamps. Once in position an raised up, I could easily finger-tighten the rear nuts (rear of the hitch/front of the car). Then I took off the c-clamps in order to push the front of the hitch up into place with the jack. Tightening everything down to 50 ft/lbs. finished the job. I also found some plastic snap-in covers that perfectly fit the drilled holes in the trunk. I used these to seal the holes from dirt and to give it a finished appearance. (see photo 5.jpg). Next was the wiring harness. That turned out to be a bit tricky. I searched the wheel well housing on the drivers side but couldn't feel any wires. Then I found a YouTube video from a 2011 Outback that made it clear that the carpeting behind the rear seats had to be removed as well as the long foam strip adjacent to it. It is held down with three snaps...one in the front (fixed) and two loose plugs in the back. Once this was removed I was able to find and pull out the connector. The rest was easy. Plug in the connector, thread the wire back a bit, hide the black box under the wheel well housing and continue the wire around the outside edge of the trunk and into the spare-tire area. Everything went back together nicely. I brought the hitch cable up into the foam tray where it would be easier to get when needed. I plan to run it out the tailgate and I don't at all think it will be damaged by the rubber weatherseal.


Comments
I did my install the same way your did. Thanks for the instructions. Helped me out A LOT.Where did find the plastic snap-in covers for the drilled holes? Would love to cover mine up as I left them open. Thanks,Joe
-- comment by: Joe B - 07/23/2014

Comments
Joe, I found the gray snap-in covers at my local hardware store in the nuts and bolts section. There are cabinets with pull-out drawers and I found them there. The ones I got said 1 but they fit the slightly larger holes just fine. I liked the idea that the holes were covered to keep stuff from falling in, especially liquid spills. If you cant find the plastic covers, just use some heavy-duty duct tape.
-- comment by: Jim H - 07/24/2014

Comments
I followed Jim Hs instructions on my new 2015 Outback and it was really easy. The hitch looks great and was on in under an hour.
-- comment by: Jeff S - 04/21/2015


Comments
I still absolutely love the hitch. I dont even realize its there except when I need it. I also like that it doesnt compromise the road height of my Subaru. It was easy to install and looks good too. Besides, I think it adds to the overall value of my car.It would have been perfect if it came with a rubber hitch cover-plug I bought one later. I would have liked one with eTrailer written on it!
Jim H - 05/15/2015



- 75673
by:

This was my second etrailer.com hitch, I sold the first car and bought a 2015 Suburu Outback. I looked around at other options but decided to go with this one because the instructions and support are excellent. As an avid cyclist I have a nice, heavy duty bike rack I leave on the car and use virtually every week. Installation of this hitch was a little involved as I needed to lower the muffler and drill a hole in the frame on each side. The instructions and video made the work clear and successful. The quality of the hitch is excellent, the pictures are after one year of use. I did have a concern after receiving the shipment, but the quick tech support cleared my issue and you can see the results are awesome! If you enjoy a DIY project and like to save hundreds of dollars, you can't go wrong with etrailer.com .



- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

Hesitant about installing this hitch by myself was on my mind so often between ordering it and receiving it, that I watched the EXCELLENT installation video 10 ten times to be sure I would do it correctly. I must say that anyone could do this without really any experience as long as they followed the video! WELL DONE, etrailer! I also must say that alternative ideas by other customers led me to alter some of the methods for installation. Thanks and KUDOS to those who suggested drilling from the inside top of the cargo area---much easier and safer all around! The individuals who used the idea of raising the hitch into place via a car jack also need to be commended---being the only one around on the day of installing it I thought would be a challenge, but those ingenious people with their carjack idea and picture submissions made this job a breeze! Thank you! All-in-all, not only was the price right for the hitch but the website, service, pictures, videos, AND customer submissions with their GREAT IDEAS made this event a pleasant and self-satisfying experience. Thank you, George, for emailing me with updates, etc. And, thank you, etrailer, for the positive experience!


Comments
So far, I’ve had this hitch a year and all is well as can be expected. When I find that I need something for trailering, hauling, etc., I turn to etrailer first to search for options. The full array of information available for any project is tremendous. Customer reviews and tips make this site a valuable tool for those who are interested in DIY endeavors.
Scott H - 06/08/2018



- 75673
by:
Subaru Outback

I was a little intimidated by the prospect of installing this hitch, but it turned out very well in the end. Many thanks to the excellent videos at etrailer and the comments from my awesome fellow-customers. Looks great, works great, and total install time was only about 2 hours. I'm reasonably good with tools in general, but little to no auto mechanic experience. Here are a few tips I found very helpful (many of them from the other reviews). Some would have helped me decide sooner to take the plunge: 1) The hitch actually installs on four bolt holes already provided in the frame by Subaru for installing a trailer hitch. The only reason the instructions have you drilling new holes under the car is to provide a way to fish the bolts through from the top, which takes us to our next point... 2) I highly recommend drilling down from the trunk area, rather than drilling up from under the car (thanks to the other reviews for this tip!). It's not only easier, but also means your holes aren't exposed to the weather. In fact, your new holes will be entirely covered by the snap-in panels in the trunk. Other reviewers have talked about removing the bumper -- in that case you don't have to drill any holes and I'm sure it's the best approach if you're comfortable doing that. 3) You must fully remove the rubber bumper hanger that is closest to the rear of the car. It wasn't clear to me initially, and I just took the bumper off the hanger, leaving the rubber hanger attached to the car. The hitch won't fit over the rubber hanger, and you'll be in no position to deal with it once you start trying to lift the hitch into place. 4) As others have said, removing the muffler entirely is probably the best way to go. I was a little concerned about doing that, but it was easy to get off and back on. If your car is very old, it might be tougher. 5) I had a second person assist me in lifting the hitch assembly into place, and cannot imagine trying to do that by myself. Definitely get a helper!


Comments
Oops - when I said bumper hanger I meant muffler hanger. Whether you remove the muffler or just it down, youll need to fully remove the rubber hanger that is closest to the back of the car.
-- comment by: Brett H - 06/02/2013

Thanks for the update, very appreciated.

-- Etrailer Expert Patrick B - 6/3/2013

Comments
Wow, you did an excellent job of explaining everything you did. I agree, it sounds like drilling down instead of drilling up from the bottom of the carframe is the way to go. Once again thanks for the great job, Im ordering the hitch for our 2013 Outback today!
-- comment by: bruce v - 09/30/2013


- 75673
by:

etrailer is amazing. I ordered on a Saturday night late in West coast timezone and within a hour my order was processed and a shipping label was created. Daniel upgraded my order to 3-5 business days shipping at no additional cost and it arrived promptly. No damage to the box or the hitch. Followed all the great reviews here and took the trunk approach. Removed the muffler completely is the way to go. Widened the holes in the trunk and once the screws are snaked in, rest of the installation was easy. I used two jacks to lift the hitch in place and it made it was so much easier. With the help of my 13 year old son, we were able to finish the installation in under 2 hours. Now it's time to shop for a good bike rack to hold our 4 bikes :-)


Comments
Yes, I am still enjoying the hitch. No issues whatsoever.
Suman C - 02/01/2015



- 75673
by:
2014 Subaru Outback Wagon

Excellent fit on my 2014 Subaru Outback. I did not drill a hole underneath because the 2014 Outback has 4 observation holes in the trunk directly above the hits mounting holes covered with tape. All I need to do was enlarge them to insert the rectangular washer. Also instead of cutting the heat sheild I just drilled a hole where the bolt needs to pass..Easy installation. Took me less than 45 minutes.


Comments
Are the observation holes located under the styrofoam side floor panels on either side of the trunk? If so they are secured with two plastic retaining clips - do they just pop off if you pull on them?
-- comment by: Mark W - 12/22/2014


- 75673
by:
2019 Subaru Outback Wagon

This hitch looks & feels substantial. It was delivered ON TIME. It was very easily installed. Just followed the installation video .. pretty simple .. pretty straight forward. I did not run into any 'surprises' .. install took only a little more than an hour … way LESS THAN 2 Hrs. I would highly recommend and will use etrailer (again) for their products and guidance in the future. I could not be more pleased with the whole experience. Great pricing TOO!



- 75673
by:
2012 Subaru Outback Wagon

I needed a hitch for my wife 2012 Subaru Outback for hauling sport bikes to track days and occasional utility hauling. A google search brought me to the etrailer site. The biggest advantage of the trailer site is the access of instructional videos and the additional resources from their previous customers experiences and advise; I found this to be most useful for installing the hitch. The quality of the products is good, the hitch had numerous chips in the paint which may be problematic for corrosion in the future, but for the price I have no complaint. The hitch appears to be the same one offered by Uhaul. The overall costs when a complete package is ordered are about the same. Regardless of the price I would and will purchase all my future trailer need from etrailer, and will recommend etrailer to future customers. Regarding installation; (read all the the customer reviews) I would recommend drilling four holes from inside the trunk area instead of two holes from the bottom up. Additionally I recommend a $10.00 hole saw instead of the $50.00 conical shaped "step drill". The hole saw worked well, even without a pilot bit. It took about 5 minutes to drill the four holes. If you have access to floor jack, use it, it made positioning the hitch into place a one person job. Use liberal amounts of lubricant to remove the three rubber muffler mounts and remove them completely from the vehicle, it makes reinstallation easier.



- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

Overall, I am very pleased with the entire purchasing and installation process, as well as the finished product. What makes this website great, is the depth of information in pictures, videos, and reviews of the different hitch options. I felt that all of this helped lead me to the choice of hitch that best fit my needs and expectations. This particular hitch is great if you don't want the installed product to protrude out too visibly, or extend out to where you would accidentally strike your shin/knee against it. The hitch tucks away nicely underneath the bumper. In theory, this could limit some choices in accessories, but the aesthetic gains more than compensate for that in my opinion. I chose to remove the bumper cover for installation, so that no drilling or wire-fishing would be necessary. I can see why the sellers don't recommend this option, as it requires reasonable amounts of finesse with the various bumper fasteners and cover. However, if you consider yourself a technical and mechanically inclined person, this is rather simple process that is fairly well described by others online. When the bumper cover is off, the hitch hanging bolts can be fed in through the "frame tubes" that are covered by the bumper. For a one person install, the most difficult thing for me was actually holding the hitch in place as I threaded the fasteners on to fasten it. Having someone supply an extra set of hands for this part would make it very simple and easy. Although we don't plan to do much actual towing, it is nice to have the option with this class of hitch, considering the respectable weight ratings. This was purchased with accessories (bike racks, etc.) in mind, but is a good value considering what the lighter hitches cost. And, it is reasonably inconspicuous when installed.



- 75673
by:

The product in of itself was excellent and fit my 2015 Outback 3.6L with dual exhaust perfectly. I was a little apprehensive about doing the installation myself, however after reading through most of the reviews and hints and tips I figured I would give it a go. I can't really give pros / cons on any of the installation options other than the option I choose and how it went. The highlights: 1) I went through top and used a step drill to enlarge the existing holes. Worked great. 2) The 3.6L has dual exhaust and I just removed both mufflers to get them out of the way. To get the mufflers free from the rubber hangers some reviewers suggested applying oil to where the rubber connects to the body hanger and muffler. I used a squirt glass cleaner and the rubber hangers slid right off. You will need a long piece of wire to hold the exhaust pipe up off the ground after the mufflers are removed. Get that wire ready BEFORE you remove the mufflers. 3) Fortunately I have a hydraulic floor jack. As shown in the pictures I pulled the saddle off and with a couple of pieces of wood, a nut, washers and bolt made an adapter that slid into the hitch receiver tube. This allowed me to mate the hitch to the underside of the car by myself and I could maneuver the hitch until secured with the bolts. The best part is the jack could hold the hitch forever so I was under no time constraint. Thanks etrailer for providing a forum for sharing installation techniques.



- 75673
by:

Excellent product and easy to install if you do your homework. Arrived in 2 days with free shipping. Watched the videos on this site and read through the reviews for hints. I decided to take the remove the muffler route. The night before I hit the nuts and the isolators with some WD-40 and then did it again in the morning right before the project. I also also decided to go through the trunk to access the frame. It was a little nerve racking to remove the side trunk foam panels that are attached to the floor via some black clips. I couldn't find mention of these anywhere...not even on youtube. Anyway I went ahead and stuck a screwdriver underneath and carefully pried up until the clips released like projectiles. Not sure if this was the best way but no damage was done (I think). Took the muffler off. The nuts on the exhaust system were tough and had to pull out the 1/2 inch driver to get enough leverage. I had a much easier time removing the muffler off the rubber isolators than folks on this page seemed to have. It wasn't even that heavy and I have birdie arms. :) I then took off the heat shield. Now let's go top side. Ok the foam flooring has been removed and I take the black tape off the holes and then go under to take out the black plugs out of the frame holes. Now I can go top side and look down through the trunk holes and see the frame holes. Sweet. Ok now I get my handy dandy 1 1/8" step drill and start drilling. Rip zip and there goes my step drill bit right into the hole and into the frame. Good grief. The step drill bit wouldn't fit in my small drill (3/8") so I used a socket attachment for the bit. Well I didn't think ahead and when I drilled through all the way (metal is thin and the drill bit cut quickly) it fell right off into the frame. After a little panic I managed to get it back to the hole and use some needle nose pliers to grab a hold of it and fish it out. The remainder of the holes I stopped before loosing the bit again. Vacuumed out the shavings. Now I used the fish wire and installed the block and the bolt and then taped the washer to the underside on the frontward bolts. Using info gleaned from these reviews I placed the hitch on a jack and moved it into position. I wrangled it into position and hand tightened the rearward bolts first. When I went to do the front bolts the hitch wouldn't cooperate. It was getting hung up on the rearward muffler isolator which needed to be completely removed. After that it was a breeze to hand tightened the frontward bolts. Tightened everything with a torque wrench. Used the step drill to drill out a hole for the nut in the heat shield instead of cutting it. This worked great. Reinstalled the heat shield and reinstalled the rearward muffler isolator. Installed the muffler and the key here is lots of WD-40. Put some duct tape over the access holes in the trunk and reinstalled the foam panels. Start to finish in under 2 hours. Relaxed pace.



- 75673
by:

After 1 year the hitch still looks great and does the job. I use it for the bike hitch which supports 4 bikes on an Outback 2012. I was able to install it myself by watching an install video saving me hundreds. I highly recommend etrailer. I had also purchased a Thule bike rack from them. I am very happy with all their products



- 75673
by:
Subaru Outback Wagon

The hitch fits the Subaru Outback (2014) perfectly, and it does not stick out beyond the bumper, which is good. I would mention three things. First, it IS possible to perform a 1-man installation, fairly easily, if you have a car jack. As shown in the picture, put a bucket with a cover on the car jack and raise the hitch up. Use 2x4 scraps or anything else you have to push the rails up exactly where you want them, attach the washers and nuts, and you're done. Second, pay close attention to the backing plates for the carriage bolts. The shorter one MUST go in the rear hole and the longer one MUST go in the forward hole. Otherwise the plate in the forward hole (which is too short) will spin and you won't be able to tighten the nut. Then, everything has to come out and you start over. Bad karma. Third, to drill the 1 1/8 inch holes through the frame, go to Harbor freight Tools, or to a good hardware store and buy a step drill as shown in the picture. It will cut through the frame like butter, and cut exactly the right size hole in seconds



- 75673
by:

The hitch works great! There's absolutely nothing wrong with this product at all. I use mine for my bike/ski rack. Installation is fairly easy, but you do have to drill. I give it three stars because it should not be sold with the 2013 Subaru Legacy. Because of it's size, it extends too low to the ground which essentially lowers the back end of the car (see pic). I have to drive over every speed bump or dip at an angle to avoid bottoming out.



- 75673
by:
2012 Subaru Outback Wagon

Just installed this hitch this weekend on my 2012 Outback. Certainly the most-intrusive thing I've ever done to an automobile and apart from a bloody knuckle and sliced thumb, all went pretty smoothly. I opted to go through the observation holes as recommended by other reviewers. Seemed making two existing holes larger would be better than creating two new ones. I opened up the two holes nearest the front of the hatch area which made threading the guide wire to the back holes a bit tricky. I solved it by running a fish wire of my own up through the rear hole then attaching the provided wires to that and pulling the whole shebang back through. I installed this so I could use a hitch-mounted bike rack. I purchased the Softride Dura Parallelogram and had read on this site that it was necessary to also purchase the extender bar for that rack, so I did. Turns out this was an unnecessary purchase as it fit fine with the standard bar. So if you're planning on going that route, hold off on the extender bar until you find out if it's really needed. Oh yeah, have help. Although I'm certain I could have done this alone with some cleverness, having a couple extra hands made it far easier.



- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

The hitch arrived in only 2 or 3 days! I installed it on our brand new 2017 Subaru Outback with the help of my wife. Watching the etrailer video and reading all the reviews and comments was extremely helpful. We did this quite easily in the street in front of our house without putting the back wheels up on ramps or blocks. As many before me have suggested, (read all the comments!) I fished the bolts in from above and strongly recommend this approach. Snap off the side carpet/floor pieces. then carefully get your hand under the foam pieces and snap them up (the plastic snap fastener will fly up unless you catch it). Under the foam pieces there is a hole each side of the spare tire well covered with a circle of black tape. Remove the tape and enlarge those two holes (one on each side) to 1 1/8 inch. I used a conical pipe reamer in a brace but a step bit would work great if you have one ($44 at home depot so I used what I had). I fished the wires from below and my wife pulled the wires through the access holes from above using a hemostat (needle nose plier), slipped on the heavy steel bars and threaded the bolts onto the wires. Make sure you get the short blocks towards the back and the longer ones towards the front as per instructions. Then I easily pulled the bolts into place. Leave the wires on, put the hitch under the car, route the wires through the holes in the hitch. I lifted the passenger side up close to the bolts and my wife slid in under and held it up while I went around to the driver's side, lifted the hitch up over the bolts, pulled a wire off and put a nut on finger tight without a washer. I then quickly crossed back over and held the passenger side while my wife slipped out, got one nut on, again without a washer at first. Then I could easily put the other nuts on with washers and then get the washers under the first nuts. As others suggested I drilled a large hole in the heat shield to fit around the hitch bolt rather than cut the corner off. Worked great. line up the heat shield bolts and then tighten up all the bolts. Since the car was new and had no rust I elected to remove just the muffler-two bolts, two rubber hangers, it made the job MUCH easier but if you've got a lot of rust....maybe not. Home Depot had nice metal plugs to fit 1 1/8 which I installed in access holes with sealant. Worked great. I attached a picture of the finished plugged hole and the finished hitch So, I'm 62 have experience working on things, have fair number of tools etc. , my wife is 59 . We were able to do this quite easily but it really helped that the car was new and not dirty and rusty. Very happy all around, perfect fit, easy install, like how it is tucked right under the bumper...looks great.



- 75673
by:

Made well and installed per the instructions with little problem. Video shows drilling holes in frame member with hole saw, this was a fantasy. Saw did almost nothing, ended up using 1/2" bit and the grinding it out with high speed wheel. Step bit was ruined in just a few minutes with almost no progress. Safety chain hookups are way back under the bumper, really tough to use. If I did it again I'd buy the kind that projects the main tube rearward. But it does work ok, just nowhere near as easy to use as the factory hitch on my Jeep grand Cherokee.


Comments
Nothing much to add. The positioning of the safety chain loops makes it very difficult to us. This setup is only used as a backup to my Jeep Grand Cherokees. If it were to become my primary tow vehicle Id swap out the draw-tite hitch for a Curt model that puts everything farther back for easier access. Or possibly use the one that mounts behind the bumpar fascia on the bumper frame mounts.
Tom F - 08/04/2020


- 75673
by:
2013 Subaru Outback Wagon

The package arrived via UPS in a timely fashion but it look like it had been through a war. That being said, the contents were all there and the hitch wasn't damaged. The directions and the on-line video were excellent and the installation went without a hitch (pardon the pun).


Comments
Im exceedingly happy with my hitch purchase. Ive had no problems what so ever and it exceeds all of my needs.
Richard - 05/20/2020


- 75673
by:

Great product, holds up well! Installation was mostly straightforward; a little tricky when we almost lost one of the rectangular bolt attachment receiving ends inside the frame of the car. We ended up pulling up the trim from the inside of the trunk to look down into the frame and were able to use a coat hanger to fish out the rectangular piece (which only is replaceable as part of a $60 parts set from etrailer!!! We couldnt find it at the hardware store or anything...)


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Ask the Experts about this Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch

  • Is Draw-Tite or etrailer Hitch Better for 2019 Subaru Outback with Thule Bike Rack
    The etrailer.com Trailer Hitch # E98847 is a better option than the Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch # 75673 for your 2019 Subaru Outback for one simple reason: clearance. The hitches will be the same in terms of installation but as you can see by the linked installation video of both hitches on a '19 Outback, the etrailer.com Trailer Hitch # E98847 offers about 3/4" more ground clearance and approximately 1-1/2" more bumper clearance, both of which are important factors for carrying accessories...
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  • Best Trailer Hitch For Pulling a Camper Behind A 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon
    To pull a camper behind your 2018 Subaru you have a couple options. The Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" Item # 75673. This hitch has a 600 lb max tongue weight which is the downward pressure on the inside of the receiver tube and a 4000 lb max trailer weight which is the trailer plus the load included. Keep in mind this does not increase the vehicles towing capacity. You always want to go with the lowest number between what the owners manual says...
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  • Maximum Tongue Weight Capacity of 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon
    The maximum capacities are indeed set by the vehicle manufacturer; trailer hitches are often made to withstand values that go past those capacities but you do need to abide by the maximum capacities set by your owner's manual. I took a look and for your 2017 Subaru Outback the maximum tongue weight is in fact 200 lbs. So no matter what hitch you are using, including aftermarket options like the Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch # 75673 or EcoHitch Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver # 306-X7267, which...
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  • Comparing the 1-1/4 Inch and 2 Inch Draw-Tite Hitches for a 2016 Subaru Outback
    The Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver part # 75673 which has the larger 2" receiver tube opening is by far the better option for a 2016 Subaru Outback Wagon when compared to the Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch Receiver part # 36493. The reason for this is because the larger receiver tube allows for a greater selection of hitch mounted accessories to be selected from. For example, we have many more options in regards to bikes racks/cargo carriers for the larger 2" receiver tube opening...
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  • Recommended Brake Controller for 2018 Subaru Outback
    For a brake controller I recommend taking a look at the Curt Echo # C51180. This is a really unique controller that will simply plug into the 7-Way connector on your Outback and pair with your smartphone via Bluetooth after downloading the free app. This allows for a really simple installation and setup and eliminates the need for a separate unit to be permanently mounted inside your vehicle like other controllers. Its built-in accelerometer will activate the trailer brakes at the same...
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  • Does Heat Shield Need to Be Replaced after Removing Trailer Hitch from 2015 Subaru Legacy
    If you remove the hitch, it is recommended that the altered exhaust heat shields be replaced. Just as a quick FYI, we offer the EcoHitch # 306-X7271 for your 2015 Subaru Legacy. The receiver opening sits at about the same height for the same ground clearance, but the rest of the hitch crosstube is recessed behind the back bumper. I've linked to a photo showing what the hitch looks like once installed.
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  • Trailer Hitch Receiver For 2012 Subaru Legacy For Kuat Sherpa 2.0 Bike Rack
    You can absolutely use the Kuat Sherpa 2.0 bike rack with your 2012 Subaru Legacy, and all you need is the right trailer hitch in order to do so. For that, what you will need is a hitch from Draw-Tite: - Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver # 75673 This hitch is a confirmed fit for your '12 Legacy and will allow you to easily carry the Sherpa 2.0. This is an awesome choice for a bike rack and one of my personal favorites as well because not only is it one of the easiest bike...
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  • 2015 Subaru Legacy 2.5 Trailer Hitch Recommendation for Towing Small Trailer
    We can definitely help point you in the right direction to pick out all of the correct components to tow a trailer with your 2015 Subaru Legacy. The first thing you'll want is a trailer hitch which for that I recommend the Draw Tite part # 75673 which is a custom fit Class III hitch with a 2 inch opening. This means it has plenty of capacity and was designed to specifically fit your vehicle. I attached an install video for this hitch for you to check out as well. For trailer wiring...
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  • Best Hitch Recommendation for a 2015 Subaru Outback Wagon
    Since you want a strong hitch at a decent price I would recommend the Draw-Tite part # 75673. This is a Class III hitch with a 2 inch opening that would have more capacity and accessory options than a hitch with a 1-1/4 inch opening. For more info on hitch classifications check out the link I attached. The hitch opening will be right underneath the bottom of the bumper which really wouldn't affect ground clearance by much. It also will be recessed up under the bumper so it would never...
    view full answer...
  • Comparison of Draw-Tite and EcoHitch Trailer Hitch Receivers on a 2011 Subaru Outback
    You're basically hit the nail on the head with the main differences between the Draw-Tite, part # 75673, and the EcoHitch, part # 306-X7162. The Draw-Tite is less expensive and is a great hitch, but the EcoHitch has a cleaner more OEM look to it. And you're also correct that there's no reason to worry about the weight capacity since you're limited to what your 2011 Subaru Outback can handle anyway. Personally, I like the look of the EcoHitch and that's what I would go with. And don't...
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  • Recommended Trailer Hitch for 2011 Subaru Outback Wagon 3.6R Limited
    The Draw-Tite part # 75673 would be an excellent choice for a trailer hitch for your 2011 Subaru Outback 3.6L Limited. This hitch has more more attachment points to the vehicle than the comparable Curt hitch (total of 6 versus 4 for the Curt product). The Curt hitch also requires use of a stabilizing strap for all non-trailer loads: bike racks, cargo carriers and so forth. Because I prefer more attachment points to the vehicle, I would lean toward the Hidden Hitch. If you plan on doing...
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  • Best Trailer Hitch Recommendation for 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon for Bike Rack and Towing
    The best hitch for your 2017 Subaru Outback wagon will be the Draw Tite hitch part # 75673 which is a Class III hitch with a 2 inch opening. This hitch size gives you the most flexibility with hitch accessories and the best capacities as well. I like it over the Curt hitch because it does not require the stabilizer strap when used with a non-supported load like a bike rack like your Thule Helium 2 # TH9042.
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Hitch Recommendation For 2016 Subaru Outback Wagon
    You are correct that all of the trailer hitches that we currently offer for your 2016 Subaru Outback will require drilling to install the hitch. The Draw-Tite trailer hitches require that an access hole be drilled in order to fishwire the installation hardware, and then the hitch is installed through pre-existing holes in the frame. The Curt trailer hitches require that an existing hole be enlarged to allow for the hardware to be fishwired, and then the hitch is installed in one existing...
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  • Will Draw-Tite Class III Hitch # 75673 Fit the 2014 Subaru Outback Wagon 2.5i Limited
    The Draw-Tite Class III Trailer Hitch # 75673 will indeed fit your 2014 Subaru Outback Wagon as long as it is not the Sport Edition. This particular 2-inch hitch offers a substantial 600-lb tongue weight rating and a 4000-lb towing capacity. Please note this hitch is not rated for use with the weight-distribution systems often employed for larger trailers. The hitch includes all required mounting hardware for bolt-on installation; the linked video shows the installation process. Some...
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  • Recommended Trailer Hitch For 2011 Subaru Legacy
    We offer Class ll and Class lll trailer hitches for your 2011 Legacy. I recommend going with the Class lll because it gives you many more options when attaching any accessories like cargo carriers or bike racks. The trailer hitch I recommend is the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch, part # 75673. This is a Class lll hitch and it has a 2-inch receiver opening. When installed, the distance from the center of the hitch pin hole to the back of the bumper is 4-1/2 inches. You will need to...
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  • Trailer Hitch Availability for 2020 Subaru Outback Wagon
    For your 2020 Subaru Outback Wagon we have two trailer hitch options at this time (December 2019). However, a trailer hitch designed to fit the frame of a 2019 Outback Wagon, like # 75673, will not fit the frame of your 2020 model. If you plan on only using the hitch for non-trailer loads, like a hitch mounted bike rack or cargo carrier, you will want to go with the Stealth Hitches Rack Receiver # 391SUOB20. To tow a trailer, you will need to use the Stealth Hitches Tow Package # 391SUOB20T...
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    Image 1 for
  • Best Trailer Hitch for 2018 Subaru Outback
    I spoke with the trailer hitch manufacturer, who informed me that there are no changes on the 2018 Subaru models that should affect the fit of trailer hitches. I recommend going with the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III – 2", Item # 75673. The manufacturer confirmed this to fit the 2018 Subaru Outback. This hitch includes computer-aided, fully welded steel construction for maximum strength and durability, easy bolt-on installation, and a black powder...
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  • Class III Trailer Hitch for 2016 Subaru Outback that Does Not Require Drilling
    I do have a 2 inch hitch that is a no-drill installation for your 2016 Subaru Outback. It is the EcoHitch # 306-X7266. These hitches are getting very popular with Subaru owners. I have linked a video showing an example installation for you. Although the instructions for Class III trailer hitches such as # 75673 for your 2016 Subaru Outback state that an access hole will need to be drilled it is possible to avoid that if you can access the inside of the frame another way. In this case...
    view full answer...
  • Is Bumper Removal Required to Install Draw-Tite # 75673 on a 2014 Subaru Outback
    You are referring to the method that Subaru recommends for installing their hitch on your 2014 Subaru Outback Wagon. I can't recommend you install this # 75673 hitch in any other way than how Hidden Hitch recommends, but there are customers who have left reviews on this hitch who used this method with success so we know it is possible. I would recommend you install the hitch like the video I attached.
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  • How to Find a Mechanic to Install Trailer Hitch on 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon
    For your 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon we have the Draw Tite hitch part # 75673 as a confirmed fit and the hitch I would recommend. It has a great price, the best capacities, and unlike the Curt hitch it does not require a stabilizer strap when carrying a bike rack or cargo carrier. Since hitch installs are relatively easy for a mechanic your best option is to find a local mechanic to you who has a good reputation and let them do it.
    view full answer...
  • Factory vs Aftermarket Trailer Hitch for 2015 Subaru Outback Wagon
    The Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch Receiver - Class III # 75673 is confirmed to fit your 2015 Subaru Outback Wagon. This hitch will work well for you and I recommend the Draw-Tite # 75673 for your Outback. One benefit we have found to the aftermarket trailer hitches for the Subaru Outback is the location of the hitch pin hole. The hitch pin hole on the Subaru factory hitches sits much closer to the front of the hitch receiver than the hitch pin hole on aftermarket hitches. This creates a problem...
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  • Which Pin Hole is Used on Draw Tite Class III Hitch for Carrying a Bike Rack
    The two holes on the hitch tube of your Hidden Hitch # 75673 are for two different things. The larger hole is for hitch pins and should be what you use to secure your Thule Hitching Post part # TH934XTR. The smaller hole is for J-pin anti-rattle devices like part # 63201. Your bike rack already has a threaded hitch pin so this anti-rattle device would not be needed.
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  • Trailer Hitch Recommendation for a 3.6R 2014 Subaru Outback
    The trailer hitch part # 75673 that you referenced has been confirmed to fit all models of the 2014 Subaru Outback Wagon as long as it's not a Sport model so it would work well on your 2014 3.6R Subaru Outback. This hitch will work just fine on vehicles with dual exhaust. I attached an install video for you to check out as well. For trailer wiring you would want the part # C56040. Since it sounds like you plan on doing some towing you might be interested in etrailer ball mount kit...
    view full answer...
  • Replacing Subaru Outback Factory Hitch with Draw-Tite 2-inch Class III Hitch Model 75673
    The Draw-Tite 2-inch Class III hitch model # 75673 will install in place of the factory 1-1/4-inch hitch without need to leave any part of the OEM hitch in place. The crosstube of the Draw-Tite will provide a similar reinforcement between the car's frame rails. You can refer to the linked video, written instructions and help article for a complete picture of the install process, tools required and tips to facilitate the install.
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  • Recommended Torque Specs for Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch on Subaru Outback
    There's no need to take your car to a mechanic however you'll definitely want to use a torque wrench like # PTW3001C to properly install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver # 75673 on your Subaru Legacy. The torque specs will be in the installation instructions.
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  • Comparing Hidden Hitch # 87568 or Draw-Tite Class III # 75673 Hitches for a 2016 Subaru Outback
    The Hidden Hitch # 87568 (no longer available) and the Draw-Tite Class III # 75673 are both manufactured by the same parent company. Other than the brand name sticker, both hitches are identical. When we installed either hitch on a 2015 Outback, we found that the hitch pin hole was recessed under the vehicle by 5 inches. This means that either the # Y02465 FullSwing or the SwingDaddy would work fine for you. The primary differences between the SwingDaddy and the FullSwing center around...
    view full answer...
  • Recommendation for Least Visible Trailer Hitch on 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon
    Both the Draw-Tite Class III Max Frame Receiver Hitch # 75673 and the Curt Class III Round Tube Receiver Hitch # C13206 are both great options for a Class III trailer hitch on your 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon. Both have the same 600 pound tongue weight capacity and 4,000 pound towing weight capacity. The Draw-Tite # 75673 is going to be a bit less noticeable on your vehicle because it sits back more from the rear bumper than the Curt, but you will still have no problem accessing the receiver....
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  • Rear Muffler Hangers Hitting Hitch on 2017 Subaru Outback
    There are a couple things you can try if you are having trouble getting the muffler hangers back on your 2017 Subaru Outback with Draw-Tite # 75673. You can try bending the hanger using vice grips or a cheater bar to create more clearance, or replace the rubber isolator with a shorter one, which can be found at an auto parts store. I've also added a link to a help article which you may find useful.
    view full answer...
  • Carrying 4 Bikes on a 2017 Subaru Outback Touring Wagon with a Factory Hitch
    Class I hitches are always limited to only two bikes, as the weight of any bikes past the second can cause the forces applied to the hitch to be magnified, risking damage to the bike rack, vehicle or hitch. If you provide me with a little more information about your vehicle, I can make a better recommendation to fit more than two bikes onto your vehicle.
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Hitch Made in USA and Wiring Recommendation for a 2016 Subaru Outback
    Draw-Tite trailer hitch # 75673 for the 2016 Subaru Outback is made in Mexico. Curt trailer hitch # C13206, also for your 2016 Subaru Outback, is made in the USA. But, per Curt warranty requirements, all non-trailer loads (bike racks, cargo carriers, etc) must be supported by stabilizing straps, such as # 18050, sold separately. So if you are going to be using the hitch for anything other than towing you would need the strap. If you are going to do some towing I recommend etrailer ball...
    view full answer...

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