1. Trailer Hitch
  2. Draw-Tite
  3. Class III
  4. 2 Inch Hitch
  5. 4000 lbs GTW
  6. Visible Cross Tube
Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"

Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"

Item # 75673
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Trailer Hitch

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Draw-Tite 2 Inch Hitch Trailer Hitch - 75673
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In Use/Installed

Customer Photos

Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection. Lowest Prices for the best trailer hitch from Draw-Tite. Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" part number 75673 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
  • All Info
  • Reviews (815)
  • Q & A (372)
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  • Why etrailer?

Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch - 75673

  • Draw-Tite
  • Class III
  • 2 Inch Hitch
  • 4000 lbs GTW
  • Visible Cross Tube
  • 600 lbs TW
  • Custom Fit Hitch

Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection.


Features:

  • Custom-fit trailer hitch lets you tow a trailer or carry a bike rack or cargo carrier with your vehicle
  • Computer-aided, fully welded steel construction ensures strength and durability
  • Tested Tough - safety and reliability criteria exceed industry standards
  • Easy, bolt-on installation - no welding required
    • Complete hardware kit and installation instructions included
  • Lifetime technical support from the experts at etrailer.com
  • Black powder coat finish covers e-coat base for superior rust protection
  • Sturdy, square-tube design
  • Ball mount, pin and clip sold separately


Specs:

  • Receiver opening: 2" x 2"
  • Rating: Class III
    • Maximum gross trailer weight: 4,000 lbs
    • Maximum tongue weight: 600 lbs
    • Not rated for use with weight-distribution systems
  • Limited lifetime warranty


Draw-Tite Tested Tough

Draw-Tite Tested Tough

Draw-Tite's Tested Tough program provides testing standards far superior to those outlined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), the go-to source for engineering professionals.



Each Draw-Tite trailer hitch receiver undergoes extensive fatigue testing and static testing with the ball mount that is either supplied or recommended for use with that particular hitch, thus ensuring results that are applicable to real life use. Fatigue testing is also conducted on hitches rated for use with weight-distribution systems.


In addition, Draw-Tite performs static testing on a simulated automobile, as opposed to the rigid fixture used for SAE testing, resulting in a more true-to-life scenario.


etrailer.com Technical Support

At etrailer.com we're committed to the products we sell, and to our customers. Our experienced and knowledgeable staff are available via both phone and email to address your questions and concerns for the lifetime of your hitch. The technicians at etrailer perform hitch installations on a daily basis, making them a valuable resource for do-it-yourselfers. The one-on-one, personal service you'll receive comes straight from an expert in the towing and automotive field. We've installed it, we've wired it and we've towed with it, so whatever your question, we can answer it.



75673 Draw-Tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver - Max-Frame

87568 Hidden Hitch Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver

Installation Details 75673 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles


Weight Carrying Capacity
Gross Towing Weight (GTW):
4,000 lbs.

Tongue Weight (TW):
600 lbs.


Weight Distribution Capacity
Hitch does not allow
use of weight distribution



Manufacturer Estimated Installation Time

Tech Tip

Drilling required for installation , Exhaust must be temporarily lowered for installation , Minor heat shield modification may be required




California residents: click here



Customer Reviews

Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" - 75673

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (815 Customer Reviews)

Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection.

- 75673
by:
Subaru Outback Wagon

The hitch fits the Subaru Outback (2014) perfectly, and it does not stick out beyond the bumper, which is good. I would mention three things. First, it IS possible to perform a 1-man installation, fairly easily, if you have a car jack. As shown in the picture, put a bucket with a cover on the car jack and raise the hitch up. Use 2x4 scraps or anything else you have to push the rails up exactly where you want them, attach the washers and nuts, and you're done. Second, pay close attention to the backing plates for the carriage bolts. The shorter one MUST go in the rear hole and the longer one MUST go in the forward hole. Otherwise the plate in the forward hole (which is too short) will spin and you won't be able to tighten the nut. Then, everything has to come out and you start over. Bad karma. Third, to drill the 1 1/8 inch holes through the frame, go to Harbor freight Tools, or to a good hardware store and buy a step drill as shown in the picture. It will cut through the frame like butter, and cut exactly the right size hole in seconds 123592



- 75673
by:
2014 Subaru Outback Wagon

I received my Draw-Tite Class III 2" hitch receiver from etrailer last week. Living in Portland OR I needed to wait for a dry, relatively warm day. I have a lift in my garage and it would have been much easier to put my 2014 Subaru Outback wagon on it but the lift is occupied my other (first) car ... a 1957 Chevy Wagon. I made the preparations for installing the the hitch bolts from the inside the cargo area as suggested by others. With all the upholstery and padding out of the way, I was also able install the custom trailer wiring harness (also purchased at etrailer) in no time. BUT ... no double-sided tape was included with the harness (I had some double-sided tape at home ... no problem). A step drill and interior panel removers from HF made the job go easily. After reading other's reviews, I decided to check to make sure there were not different sized carriage bolts and nuts. I did not have that problem ... there were no nuts included in the package. No worries, I was headed to the hardware store to get the 1-1/8" panel plugs anyway. I had watched the installation video several time so it was all familiar territory when I climbed underneath. The most difficult part was removing the muffler/tailpipe hangers. The muffler came down and was moved aside. A word of caution: Wear your safety goggles or a face shield. A lot of road debris (pea-gravel, dust, etc) was waiting to fall when I loosened the heat shield. I mounted the hitch to my floor jack (strapped it down to keep it level) as mentioned by others. My wife was there to pump the jack as I guided the hitch into position and fed the bolt wires through the mounting holes. Then installed the mounting washes and nuts finger tight ... so I could align the holes for the heat shield bolts. Instead of cutting off the heat shield corner, I chose to use a hole saw to make clearance for the forward left-side mounting washer and nut. I dragged out the torque wrench to tighten everything down. That is when I realized there were no torque specs for the mounting nuts. I ran to the computer to get the tech line number. I called explained my plight and was given the information ([specs] ft-lbs). Bolts torqued, heat shield bolted back in place, and the muffler and tailpipe reattached, it was feeling of accomplishment for an afternoon project. Except for a few deficiencies (double-sided tape, nuts, and torque specs) it was an easy install for me. Very straight forward. No real surprises. I am very pleased with the results. tip: If you are doing the install in the driveway, use the box the hitch came in to lie on. 358881


Comments
Excellent!
John A - 04/05/2018

36897

- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

The hitch arrived in only 2 or 3 days! I installed it on our brand new 2017 Subaru Outback with the help of my wife. Watching the etrailer video and reading all the reviews and comments was extremely helpful. We did this quite easily in the street in front of our house without putting the back wheels up on ramps or blocks. As many before me have suggested, (read all the comments!) I fished the bolts in from above and strongly recommend this approach. Snap off the side carpet/floor pieces. then carefully get your hand under the foam pieces and snap them up (the plastic snap fastener will fly up unless you catch it). Under the foam pieces there is a hole each side of the spare tire well covered with a circle of black tape. Remove the tape and enlarge those two holes (one on each side) to 1 1/8 inch. I used a conical pipe reamer in a brace but a step bit would work great if you have one ($44 at home depot so I used what I had). I fished the wires from below and my wife pulled the wires through the access holes from above using a hemostat (needle nose plier), slipped on the heavy steel bars and threaded the bolts onto the wires. Make sure you get the short blocks towards the back and the longer ones towards the front as per instructions. Then I easily pulled the bolts into place. Leave the wires on, put the hitch under the car, route the wires through the holes in the hitch. I lifted the passenger side up close to the bolts and my wife slid in under and held it up while I went around to the driver's side, lifted the hitch up over the bolts, pulled a wire off and put a nut on finger tight without a washer. I then quickly crossed back over and held the passenger side while my wife slipped out, got one nut on, again without a washer at first. Then I could easily put the other nuts on with washers and then get the washers under the first nuts. As others suggested I drilled a large hole in the heat shield to fit around the hitch bolt rather than cut the corner off. Worked great. line up the heat shield bolts and then tighten up all the bolts. Since the car was new and had no rust I elected to remove just the muffler-two bolts, two rubber hangers, it made the job MUCH easier but if you've got a lot of rust....maybe not. Home Depot had nice metal plugs to fit 1 1/8 which I installed in access holes with sealant. Worked great. I attached a picture of the finished plugged hole and the finished hitch So, I'm 62 have experience working on things, have fair number of tools etc. , my wife is 59 . We were able to do this quite easily but it really helped that the car was new and not dirty and rusty. Very happy all around, perfect fit, easy install, like how it is tucked right under the bumper...looks great. 399405



- 75673
by:

First of all, let it be said that nothing trumps good engineering. My hitch and wiring harness harness arrived 2-3 days after I ordered it. Unlike others here, my shipping container was completely intact. Like others, the etrailer.com decal was crooked, wrinkled and looked silly. I removed it. The installation of the wiring harness was just as simple and the video suggests. In spite of the fact that the Molex connector was right where it was supposed to be, I could not find it right away. I used a bathroom mirror reflecting up and behind the trim panel to find it. There are some sharp edges and this may have saved a cut or two to my hand by not having to dig around for it. The hitch was also no more difficult to install that the video suggested. I strongly advise that you use a lubricant to remove the muffler hangers as they slide right off (and on again) with ease. Unlike some others, I had no problem drilling the access holes in the frame. Be sure your bits are sharp and good quality. I did however buy two plastic plugs to cap the holes and sprayed the bare metal with auto primer. One nice surprise was that the parts bag included 4 of the wire fish tapes. I planned to have to create these myself. They were absolutely perfect. I entered through my access hole and the lead end popped right through the other hole with almost no effort each time. I left the wires attached until after I positioned the hitch to the bolts. I made it easier to line the four up, install the spacer washers in the front and I also didn't risk pushing the unattached bolts up and into the frame. One word of advice: don't torque the hitch until you reattach the heat shield. Two of the heat shield screws need to pass through the hitch. If it's tight to the frame and the holes don't line up you need to loosen the hitch and reposition it. Total install time, including the wiring harness was about 2-1/2 hours. I didn't have an extra set of hands or it would have taken about 15 minutes less. It can be done alone, but it's awkward. The hitch looks great in that it's barely noticeable (and nicely recessed) under my bumper. I can't say enough good things about this product and etrailer. I saved hundreds of dollars and have the knowledge that nobody boogered up the undercarriage of my beloved Subie. 124715



- 75673
by:

Pretty good fit Install time, start to finish: 2.5 hours Purpose of hitch: Mount our existing bike rack. It’s never intended to tow anything My skill level: Moderately competent. I’ll do the more strait forward work on the vehicles such as oil changes and brake work. Tools used: 2.5 ton floor jack, 4 jack stands, various drills and wrenches, straps & WD-40 My first recommendation is to watch the video before starting the install. Lots of good tips and it’s nice to see the job done completely before attempting it yourself. Pay attention to the great tips about the WD-40 and strap with the exhaust system. One small point of variance between the video and my installation was how large to drill the hole. The mechanic in the video sized it to the bolts. However, the blocks in my parts bag were slightly larger than the bolts – I had to drill to that size. I don’t have a professional garage with a lift, so I put the vehicle up on jack stands. Make sure you have a GREAT setting on the jack stands, not just “good enough”. There will be a lot of pushing and pulling on the vehicle you don’t want it falling off the stands with you underneath. I spent about 20 minutes getting it up on the stands and solid before I was happy. Another tip is to use the floor jack as an extra hand when installing the hitch. I did this job alone so there was no one else there to help hold the hitch in place while I did the first bolts. I placed the receiver on the floor jack and used that to hold the weight while I adjusted and put in the first bolts. Oh, and for the love of whatever deity you hold dear: wear safety goggles! Mandatory when drilling the frame above your head. The flying metal debris hurt when it was hitting my exposed arms, I can’t imagine that stuff hitting my eyes. Make sure you have a torque wrench so you know those bolts are tight enough. I also used thread-locker since I never want this thing loosening up. The installed hitch is very solid on the frame. It feels like a factory installed part. My wife is happy because it’s not very noticeable (her car). 539129


Comments
Its been a year. The hitch worked without issue. Several trips local and cross-country with the bike rack attached to the hitch. My Wife liked it because she retained access to the rear hatch without having to pull off the entire bike rack system if it was one of those strapped to the back window. Outside of that, shes never mentioned it, which is good: low visibility but nice utility.
Randall G - 07/08/2019

57559

- 75673
by:
Subaru Outback Wagon

Wow, this is a hard review...because everything fit up perfectly and went together exactly like the online video. I was amazed how easy it was. Took my nephew, who had never installed a hitch before, about 30 minutes for the hitch itself and about 20 minutes installing the wiring. Since the Outback had less than 500 miles on it he didn't want to break any interior plastic. I'm in a wheelchair and was getting the hitch to install a chair carrier platform on the back. It took longer to put the carrier together than install the hitch. 6029



- 75673
by:
2012 Subaru Outback-Wagon

2nd hitch I've bought and installed from etrailer. I will always do business with them. I always get what I want: Great and clear web site, installation directions, videos, Excellent!! shipping, wonderful customer support. If only other businesses would check to see how it's done correctly! If you need anything that etrailer can supply, GETIT!!! 403274


Comments
It works great! As far as I am concerned etrailer is THE place to go for my needs.
Smokey M - 07/08/2018

40654

- 75673
by:
2012 Subaru Outback Wagon

I needed a hitch for my wife 2012 Subaru Outback for hauling sport bikes to track days and occasional utility hauling. A google search brought me to the etrailer site. The biggest advantage of the trailer site is the access of instructional videos and the additional resources from their previous customers experiences and advise; I found this to be most useful for installing the hitch. The quality of the products is good, the hitch had numerous chips in the paint which may be problematic for corrosion in the future, but for the price I have no complaint. The hitch appears to be the same one offered by Uhaul. The overall costs when a complete package is ordered are about the same. Regardless of the price I would and will purchase all my future trailer need from etrailer, and will recommend etrailer to future customers. Regarding installation; (read all the the customer reviews) I would recommend drilling four holes from inside the trunk area instead of two holes from the bottom up. Additionally I recommend a $10.00 hole saw instead of the $50.00 conical shaped "step drill". The hole saw worked well, even without a pilot bit. It took about 5 minutes to drill the four holes. If you have access to floor jack, use it, it made positioning the hitch into place a one person job. Use liberal amounts of lubricant to remove the three rubber muffler mounts and remove them completely from the vehicle, it makes reinstallation easier. 182060



- 75673
by:
Subaru Outback

I was a little intimidated by the prospect of installing this hitch, but it turned out very well in the end. Many thanks to the excellent videos at etrailer and the comments from my awesome fellow-customers. Looks great, works great, and total install time was only about 2 hours. I'm reasonably good with tools in general, but little to no auto mechanic experience. Here are a few tips I found very helpful (many of them from the other reviews). Some would have helped me decide sooner to take the plunge: 1) The hitch actually installs on four bolt holes already provided in the frame by Subaru for installing a trailer hitch. The only reason the instructions have you drilling new holes under the car is to provide a way to fish the bolts through from the top, which takes us to our next point... 2) I highly recommend drilling down from the trunk area, rather than drilling up from under the car (thanks to the other reviews for this tip!). It's not only easier, but also means your holes aren't exposed to the weather. In fact, your new holes will be entirely covered by the snap-in panels in the trunk. Other reviewers have talked about removing the bumper -- in that case you don't have to drill any holes and I'm sure it's the best approach if you're comfortable doing that. 3) You must fully remove the rubber bumper hanger that is closest to the rear of the car. It wasn't clear to me initially, and I just took the bumper off the hanger, leaving the rubber hanger attached to the car. The hitch won't fit over the rubber hanger, and you'll be in no position to deal with it once you start trying to lift the hitch into place. 4) As others have said, removing the muffler entirely is probably the best way to go. I was a little concerned about doing that, but it was easy to get off and back on. If your car is very old, it might be tougher. 5) I had a second person assist me in lifting the hitch assembly into place, and cannot imagine trying to do that by myself. Definitely get a helper! 81947


Comments
Oops - when I said bumper hanger I meant muffler hanger. Whether you remove the muffler or just it down, youll need to fully remove the rubber hanger that is closest to the back of the car.
-- comment by: Brett H - 06/02/2013

1590

Thanks for the update, very appreciated.

-- Patrick B - 6/3/2013

Comments
Wow, you did an excellent job of explaining everything you did. I agree, it sounds like drilling down instead of drilling up from the bottom of the carframe is the way to go. Once again thanks for the great job, Im ordering the hitch for our 2013 Outback today!
-- comment by: bruce v - 09/30/2013

2119

- 75673
by:

Excellent product and easy to install if you do your homework. Arrived in 2 days with free shipping. Watched the videos on this site and read through the reviews for hints. I decided to take the remove the muffler route. The night before I hit the nuts and the isolators with some WD-40 and then did it again in the morning right before the project. I also also decided to go through the trunk to access the frame. It was a little nerve racking to remove the side trunk foam panels that are attached to the floor via some black clips. I couldn't find mention of these anywhere...not even on youtube. Anyway I went ahead and stuck a screwdriver underneath and carefully pried up until the clips released like projectiles. Not sure if this was the best way but no damage was done (I think). Took the muffler off. The nuts on the exhaust system were tough and had to pull out the 1/2 inch driver to get enough leverage. I had a much easier time removing the muffler off the rubber isolators than folks on this page seemed to have. It wasn't even that heavy and I have birdie arms. :) I then took off the heat shield. Now let's go top side. Ok the foam flooring has been removed and I take the black tape off the holes and then go under to take out the black plugs out of the frame holes. Now I can go top side and look down through the trunk holes and see the frame holes. Sweet. Ok now I get my handy dandy 1 1/8" step drill and start drilling. Rip zip and there goes my step drill bit right into the hole and into the frame. Good grief. The step drill bit wouldn't fit in my small drill (3/8") so I used a socket attachment for the bit. Well I didn't think ahead and when I drilled through all the way (metal is thin and the drill bit cut quickly) it fell right off into the frame. After a little panic I managed to get it back to the hole and use some needle nose pliers to grab a hold of it and fish it out. The remainder of the holes I stopped before loosing the bit again. Vacuumed out the shavings. Now I used the fish wire and installed the block and the bolt and then taped the washer to the underside on the frontward bolts. Using info gleaned from these reviews I placed the hitch on a jack and moved it into position. I wrangled it into position and hand tightened the rearward bolts first. When I went to do the front bolts the hitch wouldn't cooperate. It was getting hung up on the rearward muffler isolator which needed to be completely removed. After that it was a breeze to hand tightened the frontward bolts. Tightened everything with a torque wrench. Used the step drill to drill out a hole for the nut in the heat shield instead of cutting it. This worked great. Reinstalled the heat shield and reinstalled the rearward muffler isolator. Installed the muffler and the key here is lots of WD-40. Put some duct tape over the access holes in the trunk and reinstalled the foam panels. Start to finish in under 2 hours. Relaxed pace. 392438



- 75673
by:
2014 Subaru Outback Wagon

I finished the hitch install on my 2014 Subaru Outback today. It went without a "hitch" so to speak. I did the job alone (age 69) and managed it well because of some hints from previous writers. First, I drilled access holes from inside the trunk area as suggested. Remove the black adhesive dots over each hole and drill them out to 1 1/8" using a step drill (see photos 1.jpg, 2.jpg, 3.jpg). I didn't have a vacuum cleaner handy so I used a small magnet to collect all the metal cuttings. (see photo 4.jpg) I then raised the rear of the car with ramps to get easier access underneath. I took off the muffler which was not too difficult once the rubber shock-absorbers were liberally doused with WD-40. Getting it back on later was another story. That thing is heavy and it took quite a few "bench-presses" to get it up and slid onto the outboard rubber shock-absorber. After that, the inner one and the final bolt-down was a lot easier. I also removed and drilled out the heat shield to clear the hitch bolt. The step-drill was perfect for this as well. I removed the small rubber plugs from the four hitch holes under the car. The holes could then be clearly seen from above so guiding the bolts and plates into the holes using the included guide-wires turned out to be extremely easy. I used my 3 ton hydraulic jack to suspend and position the hitch. I clamped it to the jack pad using two small c-clamps. Once in position an raised up, I could easily finger-tighten the rear nuts (rear of the hitch/front of the car). Then I took off the c-clamps in order to push the front of the hitch up into place with the jack. Tightening everything down to 50 ft/lbs. finished the job. I also found some plastic snap-in covers that perfectly fit the drilled holes in the trunk. I used these to seal the holes from dirt and to give it a finished appearance. (see photo 5.jpg). Next was the wiring harness. That turned out to be a bit tricky. I searched the wheel well housing on the drivers side but couldn't feel any wires. Then I found a YouTube video from a 2011 Outback that made it clear that the carpeting behind the rear seats had to be removed as well as the long foam strip adjacent to it. It is held down with three snaps...one in the front (fixed) and two loose plugs in the back. Once this was removed I was able to find and pull out the connector. The rest was easy. Plug in the connector, thread the wire back a bit, hide the black box under the wheel well housing and continue the wire around the outside edge of the trunk and into the spare-tire area. Everything went back together nicely. I brought the hitch cable up into the foam tray where it would be easier to get when needed. I plan to run it out the tailgate and I don't at all think it will be damaged by the rubber weatherseal. 130920


Comments
I did my install the same way your did. Thanks for the instructions. Helped me out A LOT.Where did find the plastic snap-in covers for the drilled holes? Would love to cover mine up as I left them open. Thanks,Joe
-- comment by: Joe B - 07/23/2014

5875
Comments
Joe, I found the gray snap-in covers at my local hardware store in the nuts and bolts section. There are cabinets with pull-out drawers and I found them there. The ones I got said 1 but they fit the slightly larger holes just fine. I liked the idea that the holes were covered to keep stuff from falling in, especially liquid spills. If you cant find the plastic covers, just use some heavy-duty duct tape.
-- comment by: Jim H - 07/24/2014

5895
Comments
I followed Jim Hs instructions on my new 2015 Outback and it was really easy. The hitch looks great and was on in under an hour.
-- comment by: Jeff S - 04/21/2015

10994
Comments
I still absolutely love the hitch. I dont even realize its there except when I need it. I also like that it doesnt compromise the road height of my Subaru. It was easy to install and looks good too. Besides, I think it adds to the overall value of my car.It would have been perfect if it came with a rubber hitch cover-plug I bought one later. I would have liked one with eTrailer written on it!
Jim H - 05/15/2015

11719

- 75673
by:

Great info from etrailer for picking the right hitch. Received item quickly. Had my mechanic install. Perfect for my swagman bike rack. No scary rack hanging off the car. Happy customer! 909769



- 75673
by: 11/01/2020

Easy install, love the installation vid eos 906804



- 75673
by: 10/07/2020

installation went great - only hard part was sliding the exhaust hangers off the hooks. Instead of drilling holes in the frame, I was able to use holes from the interior of the car, next to the spare tire well, by making them bigger to slide in the cables and bolts through them. Much easier this way. Very happy with the final results. The hitch is sturdy and rugged. 898309



- 75673
by: 09/30/2020

We ordered a class 3 hitch for our Subaru Outback for a heavy duty bike rack to carry electric bicycles. This has worked out perfectly. 894755



- 75673
by:

Very fast service would recommend etrailer to anyone looking for auto accessories well done. 898942



- 75673
by:
2019 Subaru Outback Wagon

The installation videos and customer support are the reason I will keep coming back!! such an easy install with all the information at hand 893806



- 75673
by: 09/20/2020
2019 Subaru Outback Wagon

Met my needs to attach a bike rack to the hitch on my 2019 Subaru Outback. 897772



- 75673
by: 09/11/2020

No issues 877220



- 75673
by: 09/04/2020

874014



- 75673
by:

Looks good on car. Just bought bike rack and hitch holds rack steady on my cross country touring. 872915



- 75673
by:

One year later the hitch has been fine. Maybe a side benefit is that I made closer friends with a guy who is an auto-mechanic and runs in a club with me. A friend in need is a friend indeed! 871867



- 75673
by:
2010 Subaru Outback Wagon

Very nice hitch. Looks great under my 2010 Outback. Very heavy, sturdy and well built. Glad I read the other reviews before my install. These are the tips I gathered from other reviews and they are spot on. 1) Definitely drill your hole from the top. I used a borrowed step bit and it made short work of it. I would’ve bought one if I couldn’t have borrowed one, worked great. 2) Spray your exhaust hangers with lube before taking off and before putting back on. I just pushed up on exhaust with my hand and used my other to pull off rubber pieces. I used WD-40 for disassembly and white lithium grease for assembly. 3) I didn’t cut heat shield. I used same step bit and drilled out where the hitch bolt hits the heat shield. Worked well. 4) The hitch is heavy. I applaud other reviewers with their make shift lifting equipment. I had a helper so I lifted the hitch into place while my wife put on the washers and nuts. Basically, I got under the car and bench pressed hitch into place. 871078



- 75673
by:
2015 Subaru Outback Wagon

The hitch has worked perfectly to mount a bike rack on my 2015 Subaru Outback. I had it professionally installed- unless you are well versed in doing this type of maintenance, I suggest you consider getting professional assistance. 870304



- 75673
by:

Worked perfectly, easy installation. Install videos were very helpful. 870277


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Ask the Experts about this Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch

  • Is Draw-Tite or etrailer Hitch Better for 2019 Subaru Outback with Thule Bike Rack
    The etrailer.com Trailer Hitch # E98847 is a better option than the Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch # 75673 for your 2019 Subaru Outback for one simple reason: clearance. The hitches will be the same in terms of installation but as you can see by the linked installation video of both hitches on a '19 Outback, the etrailer.com Trailer Hitch # E98847 offers about 3/4" more ground clearance and approximately 1-1/2" more bumper clearance, both of which are important factors for carrying accessories...
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Hitch Availability for 2020 Subaru Outback Wagon
    For your 2020 Subaru Outback Wagon we have two trailer hitch options at this time (December 2019). However, a trailer hitch designed to fit the frame of a 2019 Outback Wagon, like # 75673, will not fit the frame of your 2020 model. If you plan on only using the hitch for non-trailer loads, like a hitch mounted bike rack or cargo carrier, you will want to go with the Stealth Hitches Rack Receiver # 391SUOB20. To tow a trailer, you will need to use the Stealth Hitches Tow Package # 391SUOB20T...
    view full answer...




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