1. Trailer Hitch
  2. Draw-Tite
  3. Class III
  4. 2 Inch Hitch
  5. 4000 lbs GTW
  6. Visible Cross Tube
Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"

Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"

Item # 75673
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Retail:$247.36
Our Price: $170.60
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Trailer Hitch

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Draw-Tite 2 Inch Hitch Trailer Hitch - 75673
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In Use/Installed

Customer Photos

Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection. Lowest Prices for the best trailer hitch from Draw-Tite. Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" part number 75673 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (788)
  • Q & A (362)
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  • Why etrailer?

Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch - 75673

  • Draw-Tite
  • Class III
  • 2 Inch Hitch
  • 4000 lbs GTW
  • Visible Cross Tube
  • 600 lbs TW
  • Custom Fit Hitch

Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection.


Features:

  • Custom-fit trailer hitch lets you tow a trailer or carry a bike rack or cargo carrier with your vehicle
  • Computer-aided, fully welded steel construction ensures strength and durability
  • Tested Tough - safety and reliability criteria exceed industry standards
  • Easy, bolt-on installation - no welding required
    • Complete hardware kit and installation instructions included
  • Lifetime technical support from the experts at etrailer.com
  • Black powder coat finish covers e-coat base for superior rust protection
  • Sturdy, square-tube design
  • Ball mount, pin and clip sold separately


Specs:

  • Receiver opening: 2" x 2"
  • Rating: Class III
    • Maximum gross trailer weight: 4,000 lbs
    • Maximum tongue weight: 600 lbs
    • Not rated for use with weight-distribution systems
  • Limited lifetime warranty


Draw-Tite Tested Tough

Draw-Tite Tested Tough

Draw-Tite's Tested Tough program provides testing standards far superior to those outlined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), the go-to source for engineering professionals.



Each Draw-Tite trailer hitch receiver undergoes extensive fatigue testing and static testing with the ball mount that is either supplied or recommended for use with that particular hitch, thus ensuring results that are applicable to real life use. Fatigue testing is also conducted on hitches rated for use with weight-distribution systems.


In addition, Draw-Tite performs static testing on a simulated automobile, as opposed to the rigid fixture used for SAE testing, resulting in a more true-to-life scenario.


etrailer.com Technical Support

At etrailer.com we're committed to the products we sell, and to our customers. Our experienced and knowledgeable staff are available via both phone and email to address your questions and concerns for the lifetime of your hitch. The technicians at etrailer perform hitch installations on a daily basis, making them a valuable resource for do-it-yourselfers. The one-on-one, personal service you'll receive comes straight from an expert in the towing and automotive field. We've installed it, we've wired it and we've towed with it, so whatever your question, we can answer it.



75673 Draw-Tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver - Max-Frame

87568 Hidden Hitch Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver

Installation Details 75673 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles


Weight Carrying Capacity
Gross Towing Weight (GTW):
4,000 lbs.

Tongue Weight (TW):
600 lbs.


Weight Distribution Capacity
Hitch does not allow
use of weight distribution



Manufacturer Estimated Installation Time

Tech Tip

Drilling required for installation , Exhaust must be temporarily lowered for installation , Minor heat shield modification may be required




California residents: click here



Customer Reviews

Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" - 75673

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (788 Customer Reviews)

Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection.

- 75673
by:

First of all, let it be said that nothing trumps good engineering. My hitch and wiring harness harness arrived 2-3 days after I ordered it. Unlike others here, my shipping container was completely intact. Like others, the etrailer.com decal was crooked, wrinkled and looked silly. I removed it. The installation of the wiring harness was just as simple and the video suggests. In spite of the fact that the Molex connector was right where it was supposed to be, I could not find it right away. I used a bathroom mirror reflecting up and behind the trim panel to find it. There are some sharp edges and this may have saved a cut or two to my hand by not having to dig around for it. The hitch was also no more difficult to install that the video suggested. I strongly advise that you use a lubricant to remove the muffler hangers as they slide right off (and on again) with ease. Unlike some others, I had no problem drilling the access holes in the frame. Be sure your bits are sharp and good quality. I did however buy two plastic plugs to cap the holes and sprayed the bare metal with auto primer. One nice surprise was that the parts bag included 4 of the wire fish tapes. I planned to have to create these myself. They were absolutely perfect. I entered through my access hole and the lead end popped right through the other hole with almost no effort each time. I left the wires attached until after I positioned the hitch to the bolts. I made it easier to line the four up, install the spacer washers in the front and I also didn't risk pushing the unattached bolts up and into the frame. One word of advice: don't torque the hitch until you reattach the heat shield. Two of the heat shield screws need to pass through the hitch. If it's tight to the frame and the holes don't line up you need to loosen the hitch and reposition it. Total install time, including the wiring harness was about 2-1/2 hours. I didn't have an extra set of hands or it would have taken about 15 minutes less. It can be done alone, but it's awkward. The hitch looks great in that it's barely noticeable (and nicely recessed) under my bumper. I can't say enough good things about this product and etrailer. I saved hundreds of dollars and have the knowledge that nobody boogered up the undercarriage of my beloved Subie. 124715



- 75673
by:
Subaru Outback Wagon

The hitch fits the Subaru Outback (2014) perfectly, and it does not stick out beyond the bumper, which is good. I would mention three things. First, it IS possible to perform a 1-man installation, fairly easily, if you have a car jack. As shown in the picture, put a bucket with a cover on the car jack and raise the hitch up. Use 2x4 scraps or anything else you have to push the rails up exactly where you want them, attach the washers and nuts, and you're done. Second, pay close attention to the backing plates for the carriage bolts. The shorter one MUST go in the rear hole and the longer one MUST go in the forward hole. Otherwise the plate in the forward hole (which is too short) will spin and you won't be able to tighten the nut. Then, everything has to come out and you start over. Bad karma. Third, to drill the 1 1/8 inch holes through the frame, go to Harbor freight Tools, or to a good hardware store and buy a step drill as shown in the picture. It will cut through the frame like butter, and cut exactly the right size hole in seconds 123592



- 75673
by:
2014 Subaru Outback Wagon

I received my Draw-Tite Class III 2" hitch receiver from etrailer last week. Living in Portland OR I needed to wait for a dry, relatively warm day. I have a lift in my garage and it would have been much easier to put my 2014 Subaru Outback wagon on it but the lift is occupied my other (first) car ... a 1957 Chevy Wagon. I made the preparations for installing the the hitch bolts from the inside the cargo area as suggested by others. With all the upholstery and padding out of the way, I was also able install the custom trailer wiring harness (also purchased at etrailer) in no time. BUT ... no double-sided tape was included with the harness (I had some double-sided tape at home ... no problem). A step drill and interior panel removers from HF made the job go easily. After reading other's reviews, I decided to check to make sure there were not different sized carriage bolts and nuts. I did not have that problem ... there were no nuts included in the package. No worries, I was headed to the hardware store to get the 1-1/8" panel plugs anyway. I had watched the installation video several time so it was all familiar territory when I climbed underneath. The most difficult part was removing the muffler/tailpipe hangers. The muffler came down and was moved aside. A word of caution: Wear your safety goggles or a face shield. A lot of road debris (pea-gravel, dust, etc) was waiting to fall when I loosened the heat shield. I mounted the hitch to my floor jack (strapped it down to keep it level) as mentioned by others. My wife was there to pump the jack as I guided the hitch into position and fed the bolt wires through the mounting holes. Then installed the mounting washes and nuts finger tight ... so I could align the holes for the heat shield bolts. Instead of cutting off the heat shield corner, I chose to use a hole saw to make clearance for the forward left-side mounting washer and nut. I dragged out the torque wrench to tighten everything down. That is when I realized there were no torque specs for the mounting nuts. I ran to the computer to get the tech line number. I called explained my plight and was given the information ([specs] ft-lbs). Bolts torqued, heat shield bolted back in place, and the muffler and tailpipe reattached, it was feeling of accomplishment for an afternoon project. Except for a few deficiencies (double-sided tape, nuts, and torque specs) it was an easy install for me. Very straight forward. No real surprises. I am very pleased with the results. tip: If you are doing the install in the driveway, use the box the hitch came in to lie on. 358881


Comments
Excellent!
John A - 04/05/2018

36897

- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

The hitch arrived in only 2 or 3 days! I installed it on our brand new 2017 Subaru Outback with the help of my wife. Watching the etrailer video and reading all the reviews and comments was extremely helpful. We did this quite easily in the street in front of our house without putting the back wheels up on ramps or blocks. As many before me have suggested, (read all the comments!) I fished the bolts in from above and strongly recommend this approach. Snap off the side carpet/floor pieces. then carefully get your hand under the foam pieces and snap them up (the plastic snap fastener will fly up unless you catch it). Under the foam pieces there is a hole each side of the spare tire well covered with a circle of black tape. Remove the tape and enlarge those two holes (one on each side) to 1 1/8 inch. I used a conical pipe reamer in a brace but a step bit would work great if you have one ($44 at home depot so I used what I had). I fished the wires from below and my wife pulled the wires through the access holes from above using a hemostat (needle nose plier), slipped on the heavy steel bars and threaded the bolts onto the wires. Make sure you get the short blocks towards the back and the longer ones towards the front as per instructions. Then I easily pulled the bolts into place. Leave the wires on, put the hitch under the car, route the wires through the holes in the hitch. I lifted the passenger side up close to the bolts and my wife slid in under and held it up while I went around to the driver's side, lifted the hitch up over the bolts, pulled a wire off and put a nut on finger tight without a washer. I then quickly crossed back over and held the passenger side while my wife slipped out, got one nut on, again without a washer at first. Then I could easily put the other nuts on with washers and then get the washers under the first nuts. As others suggested I drilled a large hole in the heat shield to fit around the hitch bolt rather than cut the corner off. Worked great. line up the heat shield bolts and then tighten up all the bolts. Since the car was new and had no rust I elected to remove just the muffler-two bolts, two rubber hangers, it made the job MUCH easier but if you've got a lot of rust....maybe not. Home Depot had nice metal plugs to fit 1 1/8 which I installed in access holes with sealant. Worked great. I attached a picture of the finished plugged hole and the finished hitch So, I'm 62 have experience working on things, have fair number of tools etc. , my wife is 59 . We were able to do this quite easily but it really helped that the car was new and not dirty and rusty. Very happy all around, perfect fit, easy install, like how it is tucked right under the bumper...looks great. 399405



- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

Ordered Draw-Tite hitch and Curt wiring harness for 2017 Outback. Spoke with customer service before placing order to ensure I had all correct parts. Very helpful response that confirmed my ideas. Ordered Th 9/27, Delivered (to MD) Mon 10/1, with free shipping! Watched Draw-Tite install video on etrailer web-site, very helpful. Installed Tu 10/2, without much trouble. I did have to buy a #9 step drill bit to enlarge hole enough to fish carriage bolt and bar washer into frame channel. Trying to enlarge hole by other means didn't work. Able to install myself with Outback on ground, but sloped downward (rear wheels on garage floor, front wheels on driveway lower than garage floor). Used jack stands to support hitch while positioning. One tip, use a pick or other angled end tool to catch end of fish wire. Did have trouble finding wiring connector behind trim panel. Called etrailer and they verified I had correct part and instructions. Customer service suggested viewing video on etrailer web-site. I did and was then able to find wiring connector. That was hardest part of entire job! Overall very happy with parts ordered and etrailer as a supplier. 571057



- 75673
by:
2014 Subaru Outback Wagon

As others have posted, just can't say enough positive about my experience with etrailer. Received everything in one box in about a week after ordering online. While awaiting the shipment, I worked from the storage area inside the car and pre-drilled the access holes and located the wiring harness plug. The online video was spot-on for what to expect in mounting the hitch. I was able to do the install with the car on its wheels, no jacking or stands. For those without a floor jack, slip a piece of 2"x2" into the receiver and let it hang out the front about 6". You can then balance the hitch on your Subaru car jack, carefully slide it under the car, and slowly lift the hitch into place. Yes, a smooth, flat, level surface (garage floor) is needed for this. My only error in the install was forgetting about the tip of not tightening the hitch bolts completely until the heat shield was re-installed. As another commenter stated, the wiring harness' black box slips under the left rear corner trunk panel just fine. I zip tied the wiring harness to some holes at the top left lip of the spare tire well, ran the wire toward that wide, rubber body plug under the spare tire, cut a slit in the body plug and pushed the wiring harness through. I then used the silver metal duct tape (not gray duct/duck tape) to adhere the wire to the left rear wall of the spare well below where I had zip tied the harness and covered the harness with the metal tape until it exited through the rubber body plug (metal taped over the rubber body plug, too, to ensure water tightness). I didn't time my install, but if I'd done everything in sequence it probably would've taken the 2 to 2.5 hrs as previously posted. Thanks to all for your advice/tips and good luck to the new customers on your home install. 412513



- 75673
by:

Pretty good fit Install time, start to finish: 2.5 hours Purpose of hitch: Mount our existing bike rack. It’s never intended to tow anything My skill level: Moderately competent. I’ll do the more strait forward work on the vehicles such as oil changes and brake work. Tools used: 2.5 ton floor jack, 4 jack stands, various drills and wrenches, straps & WD-40 My first recommendation is to watch the video before starting the install. Lots of good tips and it’s nice to see the job done completely before attempting it yourself. Pay attention to the great tips about the WD-40 and strap with the exhaust system. One small point of variance between the video and my installation was how large to drill the hole. The mechanic in the video sized it to the bolts. However, the blocks in my parts bag were slightly larger than the bolts – I had to drill to that size. I don’t have a professional garage with a lift, so I put the vehicle up on jack stands. Make sure you have a GREAT setting on the jack stands, not just “good enough”. There will be a lot of pushing and pulling on the vehicle you don’t want it falling off the stands with you underneath. I spent about 20 minutes getting it up on the stands and solid before I was happy. Another tip is to use the floor jack as an extra hand when installing the hitch. I did this job alone so there was no one else there to help hold the hitch in place while I did the first bolts. I placed the receiver on the floor jack and used that to hold the weight while I adjusted and put in the first bolts. Oh, and for the love of whatever deity you hold dear: wear safety goggles! Mandatory when drilling the frame above your head. The flying metal debris hurt when it was hitting my exposed arms, I can’t imagine that stuff hitting my eyes. Make sure you have a torque wrench so you know those bolts are tight enough. I also used thread-locker since I never want this thing loosening up. The installed hitch is very solid on the frame. It feels like a factory installed part. My wife is happy because it’s not very noticeable (her car). 539129


Comments
Its been a year. The hitch worked without issue. Several trips local and cross-country with the bike rack attached to the hitch. My Wife liked it because she retained access to the rear hatch without having to pull off the entire bike rack system if it was one of those strapped to the back window. Outside of that, shes never mentioned it, which is good: low visibility but nice utility.
Randall G - 07/08/2019

57559

- 75673
by:
2012 Subaru Outback-Wagon

2nd hitch I've bought and installed from etrailer. I will always do business with them. I always get what I want: Great and clear web site, installation directions, videos, Excellent!! shipping, wonderful customer support. If only other businesses would check to see how it's done correctly! If you need anything that etrailer can supply, GETIT!!! 403274


Comments
It works great! As far as I am concerned etrailer is THE place to go for my needs.
Smokey M - 07/08/2018

40654

- 75673
by:
2011 Subaru Outback Wagon

Pros: Hitch works as intended. I really like that the hitch fits pretty tight up against the bottom of the bumper. Install was pretty simple as long as you have the right tools. Both furthest back inside exhaust bushing are a little difficult to reinstall as the space it tight between the hitch and muffler. I ordered this hitch on a Saturday. The shipping label was created on a Sunday, very fast order fulfillment. Cons: A couple things I was not pleased with is the box was pretty badly damaged on both sides when it arrived. Thus the powder coated was chipped in a couple different locations. More of an issue was the hitch that was sent to me appears to have been slightly bent outwards as I was having trouble getting the forward heat shield bolts installed. With some pressure I was able to align all the holes. Recommendations: I would recommend a small install change. The instructions instructions show you how to trim the heat shield in order to clear the most forward bolt that attaches the hitch. By trimming the shield allows for it to lay flat. In lieu of cutting off the whole corner, I used a 1-1/2" hole saw and drilled a hole center of the bolt hole. I liked how this finished better than trimming the whole corner off. Overall I am happy with my purchase. I purchased this primarily to use with a bike rack. 555525



- 75673
by:
Subaru Outback Wagon

Wow, this is a hard review...because everything fit up perfectly and went together exactly like the online video. I was amazed how easy it was. Took my nephew, who had never installed a hitch before, about 30 minutes for the hitch itself and about 20 minutes installing the wiring. Since the Outback had less than 500 miles on it he didn't want to break any interior plastic. I'm in a wheelchair and was getting the hitch to install a chair carrier platform on the back. It took longer to put the carrier together than install the hitch. 6029



- 75673
by:
2014 Subaru Outback Wagon

Excellent fit on my 2014 Subaru Outback. I did not drill a hole underneath because the 2014 Outback has 4 observation holes in the trunk directly above the hits mounting holes covered with tape. All I need to do was enlarge them to insert the rectangular washer. Also instead of cutting the heat sheild I just drilled a hole where the bolt needs to pass..Easy installation. Took me less than 45 minutes. 111961


Comments
Are the observation holes located under the styrofoam side floor panels on either side of the trunk? If so they are secured with two plastic retaining clips - do they just pop off if you pull on them?
-- comment by: Mark W - 12/22/2014

8140

- 75673
by:
Subaru Outback

I was a little intimidated by the prospect of installing this hitch, but it turned out very well in the end. Many thanks to the excellent videos at etrailer and the comments from my awesome fellow-customers. Looks great, works great, and total install time was only about 2 hours. I'm reasonably good with tools in general, but little to no auto mechanic experience. Here are a few tips I found very helpful (many of them from the other reviews). Some would have helped me decide sooner to take the plunge: 1) The hitch actually installs on four bolt holes already provided in the frame by Subaru for installing a trailer hitch. The only reason the instructions have you drilling new holes under the car is to provide a way to fish the bolts through from the top, which takes us to our next point... 2) I highly recommend drilling down from the trunk area, rather than drilling up from under the car (thanks to the other reviews for this tip!). It's not only easier, but also means your holes aren't exposed to the weather. In fact, your new holes will be entirely covered by the snap-in panels in the trunk. Other reviewers have talked about removing the bumper -- in that case you don't have to drill any holes and I'm sure it's the best approach if you're comfortable doing that. 3) You must fully remove the rubber bumper hanger that is closest to the rear of the car. It wasn't clear to me initially, and I just took the bumper off the hanger, leaving the rubber hanger attached to the car. The hitch won't fit over the rubber hanger, and you'll be in no position to deal with it once you start trying to lift the hitch into place. 4) As others have said, removing the muffler entirely is probably the best way to go. I was a little concerned about doing that, but it was easy to get off and back on. If your car is very old, it might be tougher. 5) I had a second person assist me in lifting the hitch assembly into place, and cannot imagine trying to do that by myself. Definitely get a helper! 81947


Comments
Oops - when I said bumper hanger I meant muffler hanger. Whether you remove the muffler or just it down, youll need to fully remove the rubber hanger that is closest to the back of the car.
-- comment by: Brett H - 06/02/2013

1590

Thanks for the update, very appreciated.

-- Patrick B - 6/3/2013

Comments
Wow, you did an excellent job of explaining everything you did. I agree, it sounds like drilling down instead of drilling up from the bottom of the carframe is the way to go. Once again thanks for the great job, Im ordering the hitch for our 2013 Outback today!
-- comment by: bruce v - 09/30/2013

2119

- 75673
by:
2013 Subaru Outback Wagon

Great quality and install went as smooth on my 2013 Outback. It took me about 90 minutes to do the install. I have dual Exhaust/mufflers and I took them both off, and I think that helped (and two heat shields needed to be cut). As an FYI the mufflers may have a gasket that could be broken in the removal process so it may be good to double check to make sure; or at least see your local parts dealer to see if they have them in stock. I used my impact drill/driver to remove the bolts on the heat shield and it went really fast. The only minor issue (my fault) is that I torqued the mounting bolts before I installed the heat shields. I had to loosen the mounting bolts up again and move the hitch slightly to get the holes to line up (which is in the directions anyhow). I was able to do the install with the car on the ground but it was a little tricky getting the hitch in place. I was able to get some help (and lip) from my teenage son and it wasn't a major chore lifting it in position and getting the nuts started, doing it myself with it on the ground would likely have been a challenge. I used undercoat spray, $5 at the local auto parts store to cover the access holes. Some said they used plugs in other reviews, but the holes are covered by the hitch and I think plugs could keep the hitch from lying flat on the frame. I am VERY happy with the looks and the functionality. As a side note, since the hitch is back from the bumper, make sure accessories (like a carrier/rack) have enough clearance from the bumper to the hitch, or order an extension etc. I am sure the folks here at etrailer wont steer you wrong if you tell them what the setback is when you order accessories. 151773



- 75673
by:
Ford Flex

I'll echo most of the reviews for etrailer.com and say that the install guides were thorough and the ordering process was easy. Kudos to etrailer.com for providing such great information including the videos and reviews from previous installers (they helped immensely). I fed the bolts in from the trunk (as suggested by others) and found it quite easy. Do the rearmost cables first - I had to use another cable guide to meet the first and guide it through to both holes. I fed the first cable through the bottom until I could see it through the hole in the trunk, then I could hook it with the curly end of the second cable and bring it up through the trunk hole. The forward holes are easy. BTW, I drove my rear wheels on some 4x wood to give me some extra clearance while working under the car - I highly recommend this for comfort's sake. I'll also echo that if you can remove your muffler, you should. I couldn't remove mine, and while it didn't make things impossible, it just made everything on that side harder, especially dealing with the heat shield bolts. Which leads me to... I had only one issue with the product itself, which was mentioned in passing in other reviews - I had to flex the hitch to match up the heat shield hole. It was off by quite a bit and required me to flex it with tools. I couldn't bend it enough by hand even with all the other bolts left loose. Having my muffler in the way didn't help with this task either. I'll echo others to say that you should leave the hitch bolts only hand tight until you get the heat shield back in place for this reason. I also found that the hitch was thick enough that I had to get a slightly longer heat shield screw. Because of this trip to the local hardware store and the heat shield screw alignment issue, the install took me 3 hours instead of the 2 that others have been reporting. Now that it's in, I'm happy. It looks like it should and does what I need it to do. 146200



- 75673
by:
2011 Subaru Outback Wagon

Superb service and delivery. 100% recommendation for this web business. I also saved $100 over the prices of my local retailers! The installation videos are excellent. Be sure to watch the wiring harness video too; at the -4:18 mark note the 1" round black cover between the two white clip fasteners along the side of the cargo space.. There are actually two black covers on each side of the cargo space. They cover holes that give you access from above to the frame holes for the trailer hitch underneath the car. I enlarged the access holes a little with a jig saw and later pulled the mounting bolts through from the top. (the steel guide wires provided work like a champ---no risk of losing parts in the frame! ) Since I used the holes above I did not have to drill the 1 1/8" holes in the side of the frame underneath. I did my install with the vehicle on the ground. I used one jack stand in front of the driver side rear tire and had easy access to the exhaust hangers. The hitch is fairly large and heavy so I started from inside the car and ran a length of threaded rod down throug the frame holes and through the holes in the hitch. I tightned nuts up the threaded rods from below about 3" at a time and thus incremntally lifted the hitch up the rods until the it was up against the frame. That process added about 30 minutes to the install time, but it was safe and no way could I fit under the car and then bring the hitch in and lift it up. Once the hitch was up against the frame it was just a matter of replacing the threaded rods, one at atime, with the included mounting bolts. 231328


Comments
Have put the hitch no work. 100 satisfied
ttp3317 - 11/02/2016

21714

- 75673
by:
2012 Subaru Outback Wagon

I needed a hitch for my wife 2012 Subaru Outback for hauling sport bikes to track days and occasional utility hauling. A google search brought me to the etrailer site. The biggest advantage of the trailer site is the access of instructional videos and the additional resources from their previous customers experiences and advise; I found this to be most useful for installing the hitch. The quality of the products is good, the hitch had numerous chips in the paint which may be problematic for corrosion in the future, but for the price I have no complaint. The hitch appears to be the same one offered by Uhaul. The overall costs when a complete package is ordered are about the same. Regardless of the price I would and will purchase all my future trailer need from etrailer, and will recommend etrailer to future customers. Regarding installation; (read all the the customer reviews) I would recommend drilling four holes from inside the trunk area instead of two holes from the bottom up. Additionally I recommend a $10.00 hole saw instead of the $50.00 conical shaped "step drill". The hole saw worked well, even without a pilot bit. It took about 5 minutes to drill the four holes. If you have access to floor jack, use it, it made positioning the hitch into place a one person job. Use liberal amounts of lubricant to remove the three rubber muffler mounts and remove them completely from the vehicle, it makes reinstallation easier. 182060



- 75673
by:
2014 Subaru Outback Wagon

I finished the hitch install on my 2014 Subaru Outback today. It went without a "hitch" so to speak. I did the job alone (age 69) and managed it well because of some hints from previous writers. First, I drilled access holes from inside the trunk area as suggested. Remove the black adhesive dots over each hole and drill them out to 1 1/8" using a step drill (see photos 1.jpg, 2.jpg, 3.jpg). I didn't have a vacuum cleaner handy so I used a small magnet to collect all the metal cuttings. (see photo 4.jpg) I then raised the rear of the car with ramps to get easier access underneath. I took off the muffler which was not too difficult once the rubber shock-absorbers were liberally doused with WD-40. Getting it back on later was another story. That thing is heavy and it took quite a few "bench-presses" to get it up and slid onto the outboard rubber shock-absorber. After that, the inner one and the final bolt-down was a lot easier. I also removed and drilled out the heat shield to clear the hitch bolt. The step-drill was perfect for this as well. I removed the small rubber plugs from the four hitch holes under the car. The holes could then be clearly seen from above so guiding the bolts and plates into the holes using the included guide-wires turned out to be extremely easy. I used my 3 ton hydraulic jack to suspend and position the hitch. I clamped it to the jack pad using two small c-clamps. Once in position an raised up, I could easily finger-tighten the rear nuts (rear of the hitch/front of the car). Then I took off the c-clamps in order to push the front of the hitch up into place with the jack. Tightening everything down to 50 ft/lbs. finished the job. I also found some plastic snap-in covers that perfectly fit the drilled holes in the trunk. I used these to seal the holes from dirt and to give it a finished appearance. (see photo 5.jpg). Next was the wiring harness. That turned out to be a bit tricky. I searched the wheel well housing on the drivers side but couldn't feel any wires. Then I found a YouTube video from a 2011 Outback that made it clear that the carpeting behind the rear seats had to be removed as well as the long foam strip adjacent to it. It is held down with three snaps...one in the front (fixed) and two loose plugs in the back. Once this was removed I was able to find and pull out the connector. The rest was easy. Plug in the connector, thread the wire back a bit, hide the black box under the wheel well housing and continue the wire around the outside edge of the trunk and into the spare-tire area. Everything went back together nicely. I brought the hitch cable up into the foam tray where it would be easier to get when needed. I plan to run it out the tailgate and I don't at all think it will be damaged by the rubber weatherseal. 130920


Comments
I did my install the same way your did. Thanks for the instructions. Helped me out A LOT.Where did find the plastic snap-in covers for the drilled holes? Would love to cover mine up as I left them open. Thanks,Joe
-- comment by: Joe B - 07/23/2014

5875
Comments
Joe, I found the gray snap-in covers at my local hardware store in the nuts and bolts section. There are cabinets with pull-out drawers and I found them there. The ones I got said 1 but they fit the slightly larger holes just fine. I liked the idea that the holes were covered to keep stuff from falling in, especially liquid spills. If you cant find the plastic covers, just use some heavy-duty duct tape.
-- comment by: Jim H - 07/24/2014

5895
Comments
I followed Jim Hs instructions on my new 2015 Outback and it was really easy. The hitch looks great and was on in under an hour.
-- comment by: Jeff S - 04/21/2015

10994
Comments
I still absolutely love the hitch. I dont even realize its there except when I need it. I also like that it doesnt compromise the road height of my Subaru. It was easy to install and looks good too. Besides, I think it adds to the overall value of my car.It would have been perfect if it came with a rubber hitch cover-plug I bought one later. I would have liked one with eTrailer written on it!
Jim H - 05/15/2015

11719

- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

Hesitant about installing this hitch by myself was on my mind so often between ordering it and receiving it, that I watched the EXCELLENT installation video 10 ten times to be sure I would do it correctly. I must say that anyone could do this without really any experience as long as they followed the video! WELL DONE, etrailer! I also must say that alternative ideas by other customers led me to alter some of the methods for installation. Thanks and KUDOS to those who suggested drilling from the inside top of the cargo area---much easier and safer all around! The individuals who used the idea of raising the hitch into place via a car jack also need to be commended---being the only one around on the day of installing it I thought would be a challenge, but those ingenious people with their carjack idea and picture submissions made this job a breeze! Thank you! All-in-all, not only was the price right for the hitch but the website, service, pictures, videos, AND customer submissions with their GREAT IDEAS made this event a pleasant and self-satisfying experience. Thank you, George, for emailing me with updates, etc. And, thank you, etrailer, for the positive experience! 389707


Comments
So far, I’ve had this hitch a year and all is well as can be expected. When I find that I need something for trailering, hauling, etc., I turn to etrailer first to search for options. The full array of information available for any project is tremendous. Customer reviews and tips make this site a valuable tool for those who are interested in DIY endeavors.
Scott H - 06/08/2018

39422

- 75673
by:
2018 Subaru Outback Wagon

Hitch came in somewhat beat up with a lot of paint chips. Hitch made to be very tough and has significant weight to it. Watching installation video made it simple to put it on. Did not drill any holes, couldn't get myself to do it to my subaru. Taking off the bumper was an easy job, added maybe 30-45 minutes to installation process. You can watch installation video for another hitch (306-X7266) which shows removal of the bumper. This allows for hitch install without drilling any extra holes. Awesome product for the price! 552822



- 75673
by:

First, I'd like to reiterate how great the customer service was from etrailer.com - honestly one of the best online shopping experiences I've had. On to the install...mine wasn't quite as trivial as some others, but it was nobody's fault but my own. I installed the hitch without jacking up the car which, while possible, made for very tight working quarters. I also forgot to re-install the heat shield, so had to remove the hitch completely. Typical me. All in all the install took me a couple hours. Thanks to the suggestions from others, I also went through the trunk to gain access rather than drilling a hole in the frame, which I really didn't want to do. It wasn't hard to go through the trunk, I used a step bit (also thanks to someone's suggestion) and enlarged one of the existing holes in the body. It did add some time though. It was trivial to thread the front hardware through, a little more challenging to fish it through to the back ones. I also removed the muffler, definitely made things a lot easier, especially since I didn't jack the car up. I did use my jack to lift the hitch into place, but it was still extremely nice to have a second set of hands to keep everything balanced and aligned. I'm extremely pleased with the result - the hitch is tucked away nicely under the bumper and looks great. Thanks etrailer.com! 112558



- 75673
by:

Excellent product and easy to install if you do your homework. Arrived in 2 days with free shipping. Watched the videos on this site and read through the reviews for hints. I decided to take the remove the muffler route. The night before I hit the nuts and the isolators with some WD-40 and then did it again in the morning right before the project. I also also decided to go through the trunk to access the frame. It was a little nerve racking to remove the side trunk foam panels that are attached to the floor via some black clips. I couldn't find mention of these anywhere...not even on youtube. Anyway I went ahead and stuck a screwdriver underneath and carefully pried up until the clips released like projectiles. Not sure if this was the best way but no damage was done (I think). Took the muffler off. The nuts on the exhaust system were tough and had to pull out the 1/2 inch driver to get enough leverage. I had a much easier time removing the muffler off the rubber isolators than folks on this page seemed to have. It wasn't even that heavy and I have birdie arms. :) I then took off the heat shield. Now let's go top side. Ok the foam flooring has been removed and I take the black tape off the holes and then go under to take out the black plugs out of the frame holes. Now I can go top side and look down through the trunk holes and see the frame holes. Sweet. Ok now I get my handy dandy 1 1/8" step drill and start drilling. Rip zip and there goes my step drill bit right into the hole and into the frame. Good grief. The step drill bit wouldn't fit in my small drill (3/8") so I used a socket attachment for the bit. Well I didn't think ahead and when I drilled through all the way (metal is thin and the drill bit cut quickly) it fell right off into the frame. After a little panic I managed to get it back to the hole and use some needle nose pliers to grab a hold of it and fish it out. The remainder of the holes I stopped before loosing the bit again. Vacuumed out the shavings. Now I used the fish wire and installed the block and the bolt and then taped the washer to the underside on the frontward bolts. Using info gleaned from these reviews I placed the hitch on a jack and moved it into position. I wrangled it into position and hand tightened the rearward bolts first. When I went to do the front bolts the hitch wouldn't cooperate. It was getting hung up on the rearward muffler isolator which needed to be completely removed. After that it was a breeze to hand tightened the frontward bolts. Tightened everything with a torque wrench. Used the step drill to drill out a hole for the nut in the heat shield instead of cutting it. This worked great. Reinstalled the heat shield and reinstalled the rearward muffler isolator. Installed the muffler and the key here is lots of WD-40. Put some duct tape over the access holes in the trunk and reinstalled the foam panels. Start to finish in under 2 hours. Relaxed pace. 392438



- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

Overall, I am very pleased with the entire purchasing and installation process, as well as the finished product. What makes this website great, is the depth of information in pictures, videos, and reviews of the different hitch options. I felt that all of this helped lead me to the choice of hitch that best fit my needs and expectations. This particular hitch is great if you don't want the installed product to protrude out too visibly, or extend out to where you would accidentally strike your shin/knee against it. The hitch tucks away nicely underneath the bumper. In theory, this could limit some choices in accessories, but the aesthetic gains more than compensate for that in my opinion. I chose to remove the bumper cover for installation, so that no drilling or wire-fishing would be necessary. I can see why the sellers don't recommend this option, as it requires reasonable amounts of finesse with the various bumper fasteners and cover. However, if you consider yourself a technical and mechanically inclined person, this is rather simple process that is fairly well described by others online. When the bumper cover is off, the hitch hanging bolts can be fed in through the "frame tubes" that are covered by the bumper. For a one person install, the most difficult thing for me was actually holding the hitch in place as I threaded the fasteners on to fasten it. Having someone supply an extra set of hands for this part would make it very simple and easy. Although we don't plan to do much actual towing, it is nice to have the option with this class of hitch, considering the respectable weight ratings. This was purchased with accessories (bike racks, etc.) in mind, but is a good value considering what the lighter hitches cost. And, it is reasonably inconspicuous when installed. 297517



- 75673
by:

Installing the hitch on my Subaru Outback was a snap! Instructions were very clear and installation provided tools worked as advertised. The hitch really looks good on my SUV. 802757



- 75673
by:

After one year there’s been nothing but solid performance from my trailer and accessories . Nice equipment and nice support. Would buy again for sure. 804487



- 75673
by:
Subaru Outback Wagon

I have purchased two E-Trailer hitches in the last three years. I mounted the hitches both times on a Subaru Outback. The Hitches themselves were perfect fits each time, service from etrailer was great - the instructions were right on and were a great help in mounting these hitches. Getting them mounted on the car was not easy - but that was not E-trailers fault. I did the work in the driveway with stands in the back. The hitch was pretty heavy and the room to get to all the mounting bolts were hard to get to - not e-trailer's fault - just the muffler, heat shields and getting my hands into the some pretty tight spaces - but got it all done - both times. The hitches themselves were well made, great paint job on them and all the attachment nuts and bolts. The company seems to have a great product and helpful and well done instructions. ffffff 801519


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Ask the Experts about this Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch

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    For a brake controller I recommend taking a look at the Curt Echo # C51180. This is a really unique controller that will simply plug into the 7-Way connector on your Outback and pair with your smartphone via Bluetooth after downloading the free app. This allows for a really simple installation and setup and eliminates the need for a separate unit to be permanently mounted inside your vehicle like other controllers. Its built-in accelerometer will activate the trailer brakes at the same...
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  • Best Trailer Hitch for 2018 Subaru Outback
    I spoke with the trailer hitch manufacturer, who informed me that there are no changes on the 2018 Subaru models that should affect the fit of trailer hitches. I recommend going with the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III – 2", Item # 75673. The manufacturer confirmed this to fit the 2018 Subaru Outback. This hitch includes computer-aided, fully welded steel construction for maximum strength and durability, easy bolt-on installation, and a black powder...
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  • Is Draw-Tite or etrailer Hitch Better for 2019 Subaru Outback with Thule Bike Rack
    The etrailer.com Trailer Hitch # E98847 is a better option than the Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch # 75673 for your 2019 Subaru Outback for one simple reason: clearance. The hitches will be the same in terms of installation but as you can see by the linked installation video of both hitches on a '19 Outback, the etrailer.com Trailer Hitch # E98847 offers about 3/4" more ground clearance and approximately 1-1/2" more bumper clearance, both of which are important factors for carrying accessories...
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  • Comparison of Draw-Tite and EcoHitch Trailer Hitch Receivers on a 2011 Subaru Outback
    You're basically hit the nail on the head with the main differences between the Draw-Tite, part # 75673, and the EcoHitch, part # 306-X7162. The Draw-Tite is less expensive and is a great hitch, but the EcoHitch has a cleaner more OEM look to it. And you're also correct that there's no reason to worry about the weight capacity since you're limited to what your 2011 Subaru Outback can handle anyway. Personally, I like the look of the EcoHitch and that's what I would go with. And don't...
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  • Trailer Hitch Availability for 2020 Subaru Outback Wagon
    For your 2020 Subaru Outback Wagon we have two trailer hitch options at this time (December 2019). However, a trailer hitch designed to fit the frame of a 2019 Outback Wagon, like # 75673, will not fit the frame of your 2020 model. If you plan on only using the hitch for non-trailer loads, like a hitch mounted bike rack or cargo carrier, you will want to go with the Stealth Hitches Rack Receiver # 391SUOB20. To tow a trailer, you will need to use the Stealth Hitches Tow Package # 391SUOB20T...
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Hitch Recommendation for 2018 Subaru Outback for Thule T2 Bike Rack
    The best option for a 2 inch hitch for your 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon is the Draw Tite part # 75673 which is a confirmed fit and doesn't require a stabilizer strap like the Curt hitch does when carrying a bike rack. This will work great with the Thule T2 Pro part # TH9034XT as well without requiring an extension. We had the chance to test fit this rack on a 2017 Outback with this hitch installed and we found it fit well. See install video and picture attached for more info.
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Hitch to Use a Wilco Hitchgate Solo on a 2015 Subaru Outback
    With Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" Item # 75673 installed on a 2015 Subaru Outback it measures 5 inches from the center of the hitch pin hole back to clear the rear bumper. The Wilco Hitchgate would have to measure further than 5 inches from the center of its pin hole to the nearest part of the carrier to clear the back of the Outback. But it looks like at most the Hitchgate Solo is 4-1/2 inches. So I recommend the EcoHitch Hidden Trailer Hitch...
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Hitch Recommendation for 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon
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    view full answer...
  • Comparing the 1-1/4 Inch and 2 Inch Draw-Tite Hitches for a 2016 Subaru Outback
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    view full answer...
  • Installation Time for Wiring Harness and Trailer Hitch on 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon
    The Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness # C56040, which is confirmed to fit your 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon, is a pretty straight-forward installation since it is custom-fit for this vehicle. The T-connector will simply plug into the Outback Wagon's built-in ports, which are located behind the interior trim panel in the rear cargo area. Once connected, you will just insert the 10-amp fuse into the fuse holder and installation is complete. I cannot speak for the system that your local...
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Trailer Hitch and Wiring for Towing Tear Camper with 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon
    The 1-1/4 inch hitch receiver on your 2018 Subaru Outback will have the needed capacity to safely tow your 2,200 pound [email protected] Teardrop Camper. With that being said, if the trailer manufacturer recommends that the tow vehicle have a 2 inch hitch receiver for towing the camper, then I recommend adhering to this. It's possible that towing the trailer with a 1-1/4 receiver may void the warranty if anything were to happen. You can also check with the manufacturer directly to see if you can...
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  • Installation of Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch Receivers on a 2012 Subaru Outback
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    view full answer...
  • 2015 Subaru Legacy 2.5 Trailer Hitch Recommendation for Towing Small Trailer
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  • Recommended Trailer Hitch and Wiring for 2018 Subaru Outback Limited
    For your 2018 Subaru Outback Limited, I recommend the Draw-Tite Class III Max Frame Receiver Hitch # 75673. This Class III hitch features a 2 inch receiver opening and a 4,000 pound towing weight capacity. I took a look at the online owner's manual for your 2018 Outback Limited and found that it has a towing capacity of 2,700 pounds. You will always need to follow whichever limit is lower, the vehicle's or the hitch's, so in this case your towing capacity will be 2,700 pounds. I do also...
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  • Trailer Hitch and Wiring Harness Fits for 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon
    The Draw-Tite 2-inch Class III hitch # 75673 fits the Subaru Outback Wagon for model years 2010 through 2018 so you can install it on the new car as long as you order a replacement hardware kit # RHK. An installation video is linked for you. Hitch installation hardware cannot be re-used since it is designed to be torqued down only once. You can order a complete new hardware kit using the part number RHK and your hitch part number 75673. This will enable you to safely install the hitch...
    view full answer...
  • Rear Muffler Hangers Hitting Hitch on 2017 Subaru Outback
    There are a couple things you can try if you are having trouble getting the muffler hangers back on your 2017 Subaru Outback with Draw-Tite # 75673. You can try bending the hanger using vice grips or a cheater bar to create more clearance, or replace the rubber isolator with a shorter one, which can be found at an auto parts store. I've also added a link to a help article which you may find useful.
    view full answer...
  • Towing Capacity of 2011 Subaru Outback and Parts Needed to Tow Trailer
    I took a look at the online owner's manual for your 2012 Subaru Outback and found that as long as you have the 3.6L engine, the vehicle is capable of towing a 3,000 pound trailer if it is equipped with brakes. For a trailer without brakes, the Outback has a towing capacity of 1,000 pounds. I do recommend checking your copy of the owner's manual as well, as it's very possible that you have a slightly different model that might feature different limits. If you don't yet have a trailer...
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  • Trailer Hitch Recommendation for a 2016 Subaru Outback with 3.6 Liter
    The Draw-Tite part # 75673 that has been confirmed as a fit for your 2016 Subaru Outback has been confirmed to fit all models except for the Sport models so it should work well for you. I attached an install video for this hitch for you to check out as well. If you wanted to do some towing you might be interested in etrailer ball mount kit # 989900. It comes with 2 ball mounts; one with a 3/4 inch rise or 2 inch drop and one with a 2-3/4 inch rise or 4 inch drop. It also includes...
    view full answer...
  • Best Hitch Recommendation for a 2015 Subaru Outback Wagon
    Since you want a strong hitch at a decent price I would recommend the Draw-Tite part # 75673. This is a Class III hitch with a 2 inch opening that would have more capacity and accessory options than a hitch with a 1-1/4 inch opening. For more info on hitch classifications check out the link I attached. The hitch opening will be right underneath the bottom of the bumper which really wouldn't affect ground clearance by much. It also will be recessed up under the bumper so it would never...
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Torque Specs for Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch on Subaru Outback
    There's no need to take your car to a mechanic however you'll definitely want to use a torque wrench like # PTW3001C to properly install the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver # 75673 on your Subaru Legacy. The torque specs will be in the installation instructions.
    view full answer...
  • How to Find a Mechanic to Install Trailer Hitch on 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon
    For your 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon we have the Draw Tite hitch part # 75673 as a confirmed fit and the hitch I would recommend. It has a great price, the best capacities, and unlike the Curt hitch it does not require a stabilizer strap when carrying a bike rack or cargo carrier. Since hitch installs are relatively easy for a mechanic your best option is to find a local mechanic to you who has a good reputation and let them do it.
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Hitch Needed for a 2014 Subaru Outback Wagon
    I recommend using a Class III hitch with a 2" receiver as you will be able to use more accessories that way. For your 2014 Subaru Outback Wagon you can go with part # 75673 which is a bit easier to install but requires drilling or the part # 76227 which does not require drilling but is quite a bit harder to install. Installation instructions for both have been linked for you to reference. I am not quite sure what you mean by "shelf option" but if you could give me an example I would...
    view full answer...
  • Recommendations to Tow a Trailer and 2 Bikes with a 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon 2.5i Limited
    The Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver # 75673 is what I recommend for you to install on your 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon as it can easily tow a 1,500-lb trailer and hold 2 bikes. You will want to check your owner's manual though about the max Tongue Weight (TW) of your Outback Wagon. From what I found online it looks like it has a TW capacity of 200 lbs which, since a trailer's TW should be 10-15% of the loaded trailer weight, could be an issue if you are wanting to carry bikes as...
    view full answer...
  • Can Factory Trailer Hitch on 2013 Subaru Outback be Replaced With Larger Aftermarket Hitch?
    You can certainly replace your 2013 Subaru Outback's factory hitch with a larger 2 inch hitch like the Draw-Tite # 75673 so long as your Outback is not a Sport model. I reached out to the manufacturer to try and find out if the Draw-Tite would fit directly into the space where the factory hitch sits but they could not confirm it would fit in the exact same spot because they had not tested it with a Subaru that had an OEM hitch. So it is a possibility that your new, larger hitch is going...
    view full answer...
  • Best Trailer Hitch Recommendation for 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon for Bike Rack and Towing
    The best hitch for your 2017 Subaru Outback wagon will be the Draw Tite hitch part # 75673 which is a Class III hitch with a 2 inch opening. This hitch size gives you the most flexibility with hitch accessories and the best capacities as well. I like it over the Curt hitch because it does not require the stabilizer strap when used with a non-supported load like a bike rack like your Thule Helium 2 # TH9042.
    view full answer...
  • Recommended 2" Trailer Hitch for a 2014 Subaru Outback
    We have many 2" hitches for your 2014 Subaru Outback to fit your bike rack. While there are many hitches to choose from, I recommend the Draw-Tite 2" Hitch Receiver part # 75673 for your 2014 Subaru Outback. This is confirmed to fit your vehicle by Draw-Tite and we have test fitted the hitch on your 2014 Subaru Outback. I recommend the Draw-Tite Hitch because you will need to use Support Straps # 18050 for all non-trailer loads on the Curt Hitches made for your vehicle. You do not need...
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Hitch Recommendation for a 3.6R 2014 Subaru Outback
    The trailer hitch part # 75673 that you referenced has been confirmed to fit all models of the 2014 Subaru Outback Wagon as long as it's not a Sport model so it would work well on your 2014 3.6R Subaru Outback. This hitch will work just fine on vehicles with dual exhaust. I attached an install video for you to check out as well. For trailer wiring you would want the part # C56040. Since it sounds like you plan on doing some towing you might be interested in etrailer ball mount kit...
    view full answer...
  • Is Bumper Removal Required to Install Draw-Tite # 75673 on a 2014 Subaru Outback
    You are referring to the method that Subaru recommends for installing their hitch on your 2014 Subaru Outback Wagon. I can't recommend you install this # 75673 hitch in any other way than how Hidden Hitch recommends, but there are customers who have left reviews on this hitch who used this method with success so we know it is possible. I would recommend you install the hitch like the video I attached.
    view full answer...
  • Class III Trailer Hitch for 2016 Subaru Outback that Does Not Require Drilling
    I do have a 2 inch hitch that is a no-drill installation for your 2016 Subaru Outback. It is the EcoHitch # 306-X7266. These hitches are getting very popular with Subaru owners. I have linked a video showing an example installation for you. Although the instructions for Class III trailer hitches such as # 75673 for your 2016 Subaru Outback state that an access hole will need to be drilled it is possible to avoid that if you can access the inside of the frame another way. In this case...
    view full answer...




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