Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"

Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"

Item # 75673

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Retail:$240.62

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Trailer Hitch

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75673 - Class III Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch
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Product Images

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  • Draw-Tite
  • Class III
  • 2 Inch Hitch
  • 4000 lbs GTW
  • 600 lbs TW
  • Custom Fit Hitch
  • Visible Cross Tube
Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection. Lowest Prices for the best trailer hitch from Draw-Tite. Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" part number 75673 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


  • All Info
  • Reviews (733)
  • Q & A (342)
  • Videos (12)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch - 75673

Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection.


Features:

  • Custom-fit trailer hitch lets you tow a trailer or carry a bike rack or cargo carrier with your vehicle
  • Computer-aided, fully welded steel construction ensures strength and durability
  • Tested Tough - safety and reliability criteria exceed industry standards
  • Easy, bolt-on installation - no welding required
    • Complete hardware kit and installation instructions included
  • Lifetime technical support from the experts at etrailer.com
  • Black powder coat finish covers e-coat base for superior rust protection
  • Sturdy, square-tube design
  • Ball mount, pin and clip sold separately


Specs:

  • Receiver opening: 2" x 2"
  • Rating: Class III
    • Maximum gross trailer weight: 4,000 lbs
    • Maximum tongue weight: 600 lbs
    • Not rated for use with weight-distribution systems
  • Limited lifetime warranty


Draw-Tite Tested Tough

Draw-Tite Tested Tough

Draw-Tite's Tested Tough program provides testing standards far superior to those outlined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), the go-to source for engineering professionals.



Each Draw-Tite trailer hitch receiver undergoes extensive fatigue testing and static testing with the ball mount that is either supplied or recommended for use with that particular hitch, thus ensuring results that are applicable to real life use. Fatigue testing is also conducted on hitches rated for use with weight-distribution systems.


In addition, Draw-Tite performs static testing on a simulated automobile, as opposed to the rigid fixture used for SAE testing, resulting in a more true-to-life scenario.


etrailer.com Technical Support

At etrailer.com we're committed to the products we sell, and to our customers. Our experienced and knowledgeable staff are available via both phone and email to address your questions and concerns for the lifetime of your hitch. The technicians at etrailer perform hitch installations on a daily basis, making them a valuable resource for do-it-yourselfers. The one-on-one, personal service you'll receive comes straight from an expert in the towing and automotive field. We've installed it, we've wired it and we've towed with it, so whatever your question, we can answer it.



75673 Draw-Tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver - Max-Frame

87568 Hidden Hitch Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver



75673 Installation InstructionsInstallation Details 75673 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2010 - 2019 Subaru Legacy

2013 - 2019 Subaru Outback Wagon

2010 - 2012 Subaru Outback Wagon excluding Sport



California residents: click here


Video of Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon - Draw-Tite

Today on our 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon, we're going to take a lot at, and also show you how to install, the Draw-Tite Custom Fit Class III Trailer Hitch Receiver. Part number is 75673. This is what our hitch is going to look like installed on the Subaru. This square cross-tube is going to come over; it meets here at the receiver tube opening. This is 2" x 2". It's a Class III hitch, so it's going to work out really well for a lot of accessories, just about any accessory that they make that would be hitch-mounted they probably have in a Class III design. It's got a reinforcement collar around the end here.

It's a rounded look. It makes it look nice. Then we've got our safety chain connection points that are going to come up here on each side. Really large, open hole. There's a little bit of a plate here on the front that your chains would have to large enough to go around. It's going to accommodate most of them out there on the market. This is going to have two holes in the side of the receiver tube.

The one that's located closer to the front of the vehicle, it's larger, it's 5/8" in diameter. That's the one we'll use to secure all of our items with. We want to use Class III accessories. Whichever one you choose, you should have plenty of room to use. The one located a little bit closer to the rear, that's for use with the J-pin stablization system only. When it comes to weight ratings, our hitch gives us a 600-pound tongue weight capacity.

That's the maximum downward force that we can put here at our receiver tube opening. It gives us a 4,000-pound gross trailer weight rating. That's the total weight of our trailer and anything that we we're to add on top of it. We'll want to check the owner's manual on the Subaru. We need to see what it's rated for.

We'll just go off of whichever of those numbers are the lowest. A couple of measurements that are helpful when selecting ball mounts, bike racks, or hitch cargo carriers will be from the ground to the inside top edge of our receiver tube opening. We've got about 15". Then from the center of our hitch pin hole to the outer most edge of our bumper, it's about 5". The first thing we need to do is get our exhaust lowered down and out of the way. This is a single outlet exhaust. We're just going to have three hangers. We've got one that's located right here at the rear corner and to the inside of the car. Then right catty-corner, there's going to be one right up here. Then if we'll follow the pipe forward a little bit, there's one right in front of this for your differential. Before we start pulling those, what I like to do is just put a strap underneath the exhaust here. That's going to offer us some support, so as we remove those hangers, this will support it. Then we can gently lower it down as much as we want. The next thing we're going to do is start pulling those hangers down. I like to use some spray lubricant on them. This is just going to help them slide off a little bit easier. Then a large screwdriver or pry bar is really what you're going to need. We'll just slide those off. Do that to our other two locations. If you have a dual exhaust, you're just going to repeat the same process, but it will be over on the passenger side. Get a little slack there. Then we can move that exhaust over a little bit. It's going to give us the room we need to work. We've got four bolts, we've gone one, two, three, and four, that we're going to need to remove. Now we can set these aside for reinstallation later. Now we're going to pull the plugs out of the bottom of frame rail. That's going to expose one of the holes here that we're going to enlarge, and then the one here in the rear. It's going to be one of our attachment points once we get our bolt fish wire down through. To get our hardware in place, we're going to be creating an access hole here. It's going to be 1-1/8" in diameter. I'm going to start with a small drill bit to create a pilot hole, 1/8", whatever you've got. Once we've got this drilled through, we'll then switch over to our larger bit. Once our bolts will clear through there without any problems, then we're ready to go do the same thing over on the driver's side. We're going take on our of fish wires. We want to put it in our rear attachment point there. We want it to come out the access hole that we created. We're going to use one of our smaller spacer blocks to slide that up on. Then we're going to thread it on one of 7/16" carriage bolts. Now we'll feed our spacer block up into the hole, follow that with our carriage bolt, and pull it down in place. Then we'll do that for the forward attachment point as well. In some applications, this hole is going to be a little bit smaller, so keep that in mind. It is where you removed that forward rubber plug. Here we're going to be using the larger spacer block like that. Now we'll head over to the driver's side and repeat the same process there. Now with our forward attachment points here, what we need to do is tape on one of the flat washers provided. I like to tape it up to the frame, and then raise my hitch up into position. That will sandwich it in there, and we get our hardware in place. It's a good idea before raising our hitch into position just to use some rust-proof paint there. We'll just touch up that bare metal so we don't have any corrosion issues down the road. Now we'll get our hitch raised up into position. We're going to guide it over the bolts that we've had installed. Once it's in position, we'll place on one of our conical-tooth washers. We want the teeth of that washer to face up towards the hitch. Then we'll thread on one of hex nuts. Once we've got one started on each side, that should hold our hitch into position while we got our other ones started. Now we'll snug down our hardware. Then we'll need to torque it down to the appropriate specifications, which will be listed in our instructions. Now we're going to grab out heat shield. This would be the forward area. We want to trim off this little edge here that's in front of that forward attachment point towards the inside of the car. We can just follow ridges down, go on the high side of that one, and just get rid of that area there. Now we'll raise it back up into position here. We want to line up our holes and thread our bolts back in. Now you'll notice that this one has been previously modified for a different hitch installation. We'll only be using three bolts to get it back into place. There would be a fourth, and it would be right here if you we're using it. Now we'll get our exhaust raised back up into position. It's good idea to use a little bit of spray lubricant on them here, just like we did when we removed them, to put them back on. It just makes it easier. We'll pull down our safety strap there. Then our hitch will be ready for use. That's going to complete our installation of the Draw-Tite Custom Fit Class III Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number is 75673, on our 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon.


Customer Reviews

Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" - 75673

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (733 Customer Reviews)

Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection.

- 75673
by:
2012 Subaru Outback-Wagon

2nd hitch I've bought and installed from etrailer. I will always do business with them. I always get what I want: Great and clear web site, installation directions, videos, Excellent!! shipping, wonderful customer support. If only other businesses would check to see how it's done correctly! If you need anything that etrailer can supply, GETIT!!! 403274


Comments

It works great! As far as I am concerned etrailer is THE place to go for my needs.

Smokey M - 07/08/2018

40654

- 75673
by:
Subaru Outback Wagon

Wow, this is a hard review...because everything fit up perfectly and went together exactly like the online video. I was amazed how easy it was. Took my nephew, who had never installed a hitch before, about 30 minutes for the hitch itself and about 20 minutes installing the wiring. Since the Outback had less than 500 miles on it he didn't want to break any interior plastic. I'm in a wheelchair and was getting the hitch to install a chair carrier platform on the back. It took longer to put the carrier together than install the hitch. 6029



- 75673
by:

First of all, let it be said that nothing trumps good engineering. My hitch and wiring harness harness arrived 2-3 days after I ordered it. Unlike others here, my shipping container was completely intact. Like others, the etrailer.com decal was crooked, wrinkled and looked silly. I removed it. The installation of the wiring harness was just as simple and the video suggests. In spite of the fact that the Molex connector was right where it was supposed to be, I could not find it right away. I used a bathroom mirror reflecting up and behind the trim panel to find it. There are some sharp edges and this may have saved a cut or two to my hand by not having to dig around for it. The hitch was also no more difficult to install that the video suggested. I strongly advise that you use a lubricant to remove the muffler hangers as they slide right off (and on again) with ease. Unlike some others, I had no problem drilling the access holes in the frame. Be sure your bits are sharp and good quality. I did however buy two plastic plugs to cap the holes and sprayed the bare metal with auto primer. One nice surprise was that the parts bag included 4 of the wire fish tapes. I planned to have to create these myself. They were absolutely perfect. I entered through my access hole and the lead end popped right through the other hole with almost no effort each time. I left the wires attached until after I positioned the hitch to the bolts. I made it easier to line the four up, install the spacer washers in the front and I also didn't risk pushing the unattached bolts up and into the frame. One word of advice: don't torque the hitch until you reattach the heat shield. Two of the heat shield screws need to pass through the hitch. If it's tight to the frame and the holes don't line up you need to loosen the hitch and reposition it. Total install time, including the wiring harness was about 2-1/2 hours. I didn't have an extra set of hands or it would have taken about 15 minutes less. It can be done alone, but it's awkward. The hitch looks great in that it's barely noticeable (and nicely recessed) under my bumper. I can't say enough good things about this product and etrailer. I saved hundreds of dollars and have the knowledge that nobody boogered up the undercarriage of my beloved Subie. 124715



- 75673
by:

Pretty good fit Install time, start to finish: 2.5 hours Purpose of hitch: Mount our existing bike rack. It’s never intended to tow anything My skill level: Moderately competent. I’ll do the more strait forward work on the vehicles such as oil changes and brake work. Tools used: 2.5 ton floor jack, 4 jack stands, various drills and wrenches, straps & WD-40 My first recommendation is to watch the video before starting the install. Lots of good tips and it’s nice to see the job done completely before attempting it yourself. Pay attention to the great tips about the WD-40 and strap with the exhaust system. One small point of variance between the video and my installation was how large to drill the hole. The mechanic in the video sized it to the bolts. However, the blocks in my parts bag were slightly larger than the bolts – I had to drill to that size. I don’t have a professional garage with a lift, so I put the vehicle up on jack stands. Make sure you have a GREAT setting on the jack stands, not just “good enough”. There will be a lot of pushing and pulling on the vehicle you don’t want it falling off the stands with you underneath. I spent about 20 minutes getting it up on the stands and solid before I was happy. Another tip is to use the floor jack as an extra hand when installing the hitch. I did this job alone so there was no one else there to help hold the hitch in place while I did the first bolts. I placed the receiver on the floor jack and used that to hold the weight while I adjusted and put in the first bolts. Oh, and for the love of whatever deity you hold dear: wear safety goggles! Mandatory when drilling the frame above your head. The flying metal debris hurt when it was hitting my exposed arms, I can’t imagine that stuff hitting my eyes. Make sure you have a torque wrench so you know those bolts are tight enough. I also used thread-locker since I never want this thing loosening up. The installed hitch is very solid on the frame. It feels like a factory installed part. My wife is happy because it’s not very noticeable (her car). 539129



- 75673
by:
2011 Subaru Outback Wagon

Superb service and delivery. 100% recommendation for this web business. I also saved $100 over the prices of my local retailers! The installation videos are excellent. Be sure to watch the wiring harness video too; at the -4:18 mark note the 1" round black cover between the two white clip fasteners along the side of the cargo space.. There are actually two black covers on each side of the cargo space. They cover holes that give you access from above to the frame holes for the trailer hitch underneath the car. I enlarged the access holes a little with a jig saw and later pulled the mounting bolts through from the top. (the steel guide wires provided work like a champ---no risk of losing parts in the frame! ) Since I used the holes above I did not have to drill the 1 1/8" holes in the side of the frame underneath. I did my install with the vehicle on the ground. I used one jack stand in front of the driver side rear tire and had easy access to the exhaust hangers. The hitch is fairly large and heavy so I started from inside the car and ran a length of threaded rod down throug the frame holes and through the holes in the hitch. I tightned nuts up the threaded rods from below about 3" at a time and thus incremntally lifted the hitch up the rods until the it was up against the frame. That process added about 30 minutes to the install time, but it was safe and no way could I fit under the car and then bring the hitch in and lift it up. Once the hitch was up against the frame it was just a matter of replacing the threaded rods, one at atime, with the included mounting bolts. 231328


Comments

Have put the hitch no work. 100 satisfied

ttp3317 - 11/02/2016

21714

- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

When we tried to put the hitch on the vehicle we found we were off on the bolt holes. After looking at the hitch we could see both ends of the hitch were bent. We used a ratchet strap and pull the hitch back were it needed to be to line up the bolt holes. It would be nice if the add said there was drilling required. over all the hitch looks good. 545101



- 75673
by:
2011 Subaru Outback Wagon

Pros: Hitch works as intended. I really like that the hitch fits pretty tight up against the bottom of the bumper. Install was pretty simple as long as you have the right tools. Both furthest back inside exhaust bushing are a little difficult to reinstall as the space it tight between the hitch and muffler. I ordered this hitch on a Saturday. The shipping label was created on a Sunday, very fast order fulfillment. Cons: A couple things I was not pleased with is the box was pretty badly damaged on both sides when it arrived. Thus the powder coated was chipped in a couple different locations. More of an issue was the hitch that was sent to me appears to have been slightly bent outwards as I was having trouble getting the forward heat shield bolts installed. With some pressure I was able to align all the holes. Recommendations: I would recommend a small install change. The instructions instructions show you how to trim the heat shield in order to clear the most forward bolt that attaches the hitch. By trimming the shield allows for it to lay flat. In lieu of cutting off the whole corner, I used a 1-1/2" hole saw and drilled a hole center of the bolt hole. I liked how this finished better than trimming the whole corner off. Overall I am happy with my purchase. I purchased this primarily to use with a bike rack. 555525



- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

Hesitant about installing this hitch by myself was on my mind so often between ordering it and receiving it, that I watched the EXCELLENT installation video 10 ten times to be sure I would do it correctly. I must say that anyone could do this without really any experience as long as they followed the video! WELL DONE, etrailer! I also must say that alternative ideas by other customers led me to alter some of the methods for installation. Thanks and KUDOS to those who suggested drilling from the inside top of the cargo area---much easier and safer all around! The individuals who used the idea of raising the hitch into place via a car jack also need to be commended---being the only one around on the day of installing it I thought would be a challenge, but those ingenious people with their carjack idea and picture submissions made this job a breeze! Thank you! All-in-all, not only was the price right for the hitch but the website, service, pictures, videos, AND customer submissions with their GREAT IDEAS made this event a pleasant and self-satisfying experience. Thank you, George, for emailing me with updates, etc. And, thank you, etrailer, for the positive experience! 389707


Comments

So far, I’ve had this hitch a year and all is well as can be expected. When I find that I need something for trailering, hauling, etc., I turn to etrailer first to search for options. The full array of information available for any project is tremendous. Customer reviews and tips make this site a valuable tool for those who are interested in DIY endeavors.

Scott H - 06/08/2018

39422

- 75673
by:
2013 Subaru Outback Wagon

Great quality and install went as smooth on my 2013 Outback. It took me about 90 minutes to do the install. I have dual Exhaust/mufflers and I took them both off, and I think that helped (and two heat shields needed to be cut). As an FYI the mufflers may have a gasket that could be broken in the removal process so it may be good to double check to make sure; or at least see your local parts dealer to see if they have them in stock. I used my impact drill/driver to remove the bolts on the heat shield and it went really fast. The only minor issue (my fault) is that I torqued the mounting bolts before I installed the heat shields. I had to loosen the mounting bolts up again and move the hitch slightly to get the holes to line up (which is in the directions anyhow). I was able to do the install with the car on the ground but it was a little tricky getting the hitch in place. I was able to get some help (and lip) from my teenage son and it wasn't a major chore lifting it in position and getting the nuts started, doing it myself with it on the ground would likely have been a challenge. I used undercoat spray, $5 at the local auto parts store to cover the access holes. Some said they used plugs in other reviews, but the holes are covered by the hitch and I think plugs could keep the hitch from lying flat on the frame. I am VERY happy with the looks and the functionality. As a side note, since the hitch is back from the bumper, make sure accessories (like a carrier/rack) have enough clearance from the bumper to the hitch, or order an extension etc. I am sure the folks here at etrailer wont steer you wrong if you tell them what the setback is when you order accessories. 151773



- 75673
by:
2014 Subaru Outback Wagon

I received my Draw-Tite Class III 2" hitch receiver from etrailer last week. Living in Portland OR I needed to wait for a dry, relatively warm day. I have a lift in my garage and it would have been much easier to put my 2014 Subaru Outback wagon on it but the lift is occupied my other (first) car ... a 1957 Chevy Wagon. I made the preparations for installing the the hitch bolts from the inside the cargo area as suggested by others. With all the upholstery and padding out of the way, I was also able install the custom trailer wiring harness (also purchased at etrailer) in no time. BUT ... no double-sided tape was included with the harness (I had some double-sided tape at home ... no problem). A step drill and interior panel removers from HF made the job go easily. After reading other's reviews, I decided to check to make sure there were not different sized carriage bolts and nuts. I did not have that problem ... there were no nuts included in the package. No worries, I was headed to the hardware store to get the 1-1/8" panel plugs anyway. I had watched the installation video several time so it was all familiar territory when I climbed underneath. The most difficult part was removing the muffler/tailpipe hangers. The muffler came down and was moved aside. A word of caution: Wear your safety goggles or a face shield. A lot of road debris (pea-gravel, dust, etc) was waiting to fall when I loosened the heat shield. I mounted the hitch to my floor jack (strapped it down to keep it level) as mentioned by others. My wife was there to pump the jack as I guided the hitch into position and fed the bolt wires through the mounting holes. Then installed the mounting washes and nuts finger tight ... so I could align the holes for the heat shield bolts. Instead of cutting off the heat shield corner, I chose to use a hole saw to make clearance for the forward left-side mounting washer and nut. I dragged out the torque wrench to tighten everything down. That is when I realized there were no torque specs for the mounting nuts. I ran to the computer to get the tech line number. I called explained my plight and was given the information ([specs] ft-lbs). Bolts torqued, heat shield bolted back in place, and the muffler and tailpipe reattached, it was feeling of accomplishment for an afternoon project. Except for a few deficiencies (double-sided tape, nuts, and torque specs) it was an easy install for me. Very straight forward. No real surprises. I am very pleased with the results. tip: If you are doing the install in the driveway, use the box the hitch came in to lie on. 358881


Comments

Excellent!

John A - 04/05/2018

36897

- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

Overall, I am very pleased with the entire purchasing and installation process, as well as the finished product. What makes this website great, is the depth of information in pictures, videos, and reviews of the different hitch options. I felt that all of this helped lead me to the choice of hitch that best fit my needs and expectations. This particular hitch is great if you don't want the installed product to protrude out too visibly, or extend out to where you would accidentally strike your shin/knee against it. The hitch tucks away nicely underneath the bumper. In theory, this could limit some choices in accessories, but the aesthetic gains more than compensate for that in my opinion. I chose to remove the bumper cover for installation, so that no drilling or wire-fishing would be necessary. I can see why the sellers don't recommend this option, as it requires reasonable amounts of finesse with the various bumper fasteners and cover. However, if you consider yourself a technical and mechanically inclined person, this is rather simple process that is fairly well described by others online. When the bumper cover is off, the hitch hanging bolts can be fed in through the "frame tubes" that are covered by the bumper. For a one person install, the most difficult thing for me was actually holding the hitch in place as I threaded the fasteners on to fasten it. Having someone supply an extra set of hands for this part would make it very simple and easy. Although we don't plan to do much actual towing, it is nice to have the option with this class of hitch, considering the respectable weight ratings. This was purchased with accessories (bike racks, etc.) in mind, but is a good value considering what the lighter hitches cost. And, it is reasonably inconspicuous when installed. 297517



- 75673
by:
2018 Subaru Outback Wagon

Hitch came in somewhat beat up with a lot of paint chips. Hitch made to be very tough and has significant weight to it. Watching installation video made it simple to put it on. Did not drill any holes, couldn't get myself to do it to my subaru. Taking off the bumper was an easy job, added maybe 30-45 minutes to installation process. You can watch installation video for another hitch (306-X7266) which shows removal of the bumper. This allows for hitch install without drilling any extra holes. Awesome product for the price! 552822



- 75673
by:

Very easy to install! Straight forward instructions that make the job A LOT easier! 563195



- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

Ordered Draw-Tite hitch and Curt wiring harness for 2017 Outback. Spoke with customer service before placing order to ensure I had all correct parts. Very helpful response that confirmed my ideas. Ordered Th 9/27, Delivered (to MD) Mon 10/1, with free shipping! Watched Draw-Tite install video on etrailer web-site, very helpful. Installed Tu 10/2, without much trouble. I did have to buy a #9 step drill bit to enlarge hole enough to fish carriage bolt and bar washer into frame channel. Trying to enlarge hole by other means didn't work. Able to install myself with Outback on ground, but sloped downward (rear wheels on garage floor, front wheels on driveway lower than garage floor). Used jack stands to support hitch while positioning. One tip, use a pick or other angled end tool to catch end of fish wire. Did have trouble finding wiring connector behind trim panel. Called etrailer and they verified I had correct part and instructions. Customer service suggested viewing video on etrailer web-site. I did and was then able to find wiring connector. That was hardest part of entire job! Overall very happy with parts ordered and etrailer as a supplier. 571057



- 75673
by:

Fast free shipping, quality product, i did however drill access holes from the inside top makes for a fast easy mounting, no stiff heck or hot chips in your face . 566740



- 75673
by:
2014 Subaru Outback Wagon

As others have posted, just can't say enough positive about my experience with etrailer. Received everything in one box in about a week after ordering online. While awaiting the shipment, I worked from the storage area inside the car and pre-drilled the access holes and located the wiring harness plug. The online video was spot-on for what to expect in mounting the hitch. I was able to do the install with the car on its wheels, no jacking or stands. For those without a floor jack, slip a piece of 2"x2" into the receiver and let it hang out the front about 6". You can then balance the hitch on your Subaru car jack, carefully slide it under the car, and slowly lift the hitch into place. Yes, a smooth, flat, level surface (garage floor) is needed for this. My only error in the install was forgetting about the tip of not tightening the hitch bolts completely until the heat shield was re-installed. As another commenter stated, the wiring harness' black box slips under the left rear corner trunk panel just fine. I zip tied the wiring harness to some holes at the top left lip of the spare tire well, ran the wire toward that wide, rubber body plug under the spare tire, cut a slit in the body plug and pushed the wiring harness through. I then used the silver metal duct tape (not gray duct/duck tape) to adhere the wire to the left rear wall of the spare well below where I had zip tied the harness and covered the harness with the metal tape until it exited through the rubber body plug (metal taped over the rubber body plug, too, to ensure water tightness). I didn't time my install, but if I'd done everything in sequence it probably would've taken the 2 to 2.5 hrs as previously posted. Thanks to all for your advice/tips and good luck to the new customers on your home install. 412513



- 75673
by:

First, I'd like to reiterate how great the customer service was from etrailer.com - honestly one of the best online shopping experiences I've had. On to the install...mine wasn't quite as trivial as some others, but it was nobody's fault but my own. I installed the hitch without jacking up the car which, while possible, made for very tight working quarters. I also forgot to re-install the heat shield, so had to remove the hitch completely. Typical me. All in all the install took me a couple hours. Thanks to the suggestions from others, I also went through the trunk to gain access rather than drilling a hole in the frame, which I really didn't want to do. It wasn't hard to go through the trunk, I used a step bit (also thanks to someone's suggestion) and enlarged one of the existing holes in the body. It did add some time though. It was trivial to thread the front hardware through, a little more challenging to fish it through to the back ones. I also removed the muffler, definitely made things a lot easier, especially since I didn't jack the car up. I did use my jack to lift the hitch into place, but it was still extremely nice to have a second set of hands to keep everything balanced and aligned. I'm extremely pleased with the result - the hitch is tucked away nicely under the bumper and looks great. Thanks etrailer.com! 112558



- 75673
by:
2013 Subaru Outback-Wagon

I couldn't be happier with the hitch and the ease of installation. I read over the reviews and honestly, almost every review helped, and of course the video was very well done. For those who are little tweaked, I chose to mount the hitch without drilling a hole. All you need to do is remove styrofoam compartments in the truck section, locate the 4 black adhesive caps and remove. The forward holes, one left, one right, now need to be reemed out to a little over an inch. Using an round one inch rock grinding bit I enlarged each hole, took about 30 seconds for both holes. Next, using about 18 inches of somewhat medium gauge wire I went from the bottom mounting hole, underneath the car, to the access hole I earlier made larger. From there I taped the medium gauge wire to the fish wire with tape and proceeded to pull down the mounting spacer and carriage bolt. Without drilling a hole the hitch was mounted. The customer support was excellent, I don't do reviews, but felt compelled to do so after being treated with great service and a quality product. Patrick is a very good employee! 73900


Comments

Funny that you sent the email because I just installed a hitch on a buddys Ford. Just keep doing the videos, just so simple and kinda fun.

Colin - 10/07/2014

7179

- 75673
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Delivered to front door.Product met my expectations.Fits well 569909



- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

Just installed this hitch on my 2017 Outback Limited 3.6. Just like the other 4 previous hitches I've purchased from eTrailer and installed myself in my driveway - it was exactly as advertised and fit perfectly. Thank you eTrailer for the install video and thank you to other reviewers for the install tips! Unless you have a lift (I don't), definitely drill the access hole from above inside the rear hatch. You only need to drill one hole, midway between the holes from the factory to fish the wires & fasteners through. I cleaned up the shavings with a shop vac and a magnet, then sprayed rust inhibiting primer on the bare edges of the drilled hole. The only bug in the install was getting the head shield holes to line up exactly right & it was an easy fix. Suggest lining the heat shield holes up as closely as possible BEFORE tightening all the hitch mounting bolts. Then put the heat shield mount screws in partway. Leave one side or the other of the hitch mount flanges loose, then you may have to press one of the forward mounting points toward the center to get all the heat shield screws started. Once all these screws are started, then go back and tighten the hitch mounting nuts to hold this alignment. Then remove the screws and remount the heat shields. Trim them exactly as in the install video - no need to trim any more than that. The 3.6 with dual exhaust obviously has two heat shields, but they are mirror images so trim them in the same spot to clear the rear hitch mounting bolt. Spray the rubber muffler isolators liberally with WD40 to ease removal and reinstall. The finished install is very clean and my new 1up double rack looks great and is rock steady. Not worried at all about any slight loss of departure angle with the 2" receiver as this car will NEVER go anywhere without the bike rack on it! 288090



- 75673
by:
2014 Subaru Outback Wagon

Excellent fit on my 2014 Subaru Outback. I did not drill a hole underneath because the 2014 Outback has 4 observation holes in the trunk directly above the hits mounting holes covered with tape. All I need to do was enlarge them to insert the rectangular washer. Also instead of cutting the heat sheild I just drilled a hole where the bolt needs to pass..Easy installation. Took me less than 45 minutes. 111961


Comments

Are the observation holes located under the styrofoam side floor panels on either side of the trunk? If so they are secured with two plastic retaining clips - do they just pop off if you pull on them?

-- comment by: Mark W - 12/22/2014

8140

- 75673
by:

Hitch arrived exactly as promised. I installed it last weekend in just an hour. I should add that I am a retired professional mechanic and do have a vehicle lift in my home garage. Aside from that, the instructions were very clear and explicit. All the parts were perfect fit, and the fishwire accessories are extremely clever. In fact, I intend to keep them in my toolbox for future use on other jobs. I recommend this receiver hitch kit without reservation, and will recommend Etrailer to anyone who needs trailer hitches and/or accessories. Thanks very much, Jack D. 196545


Comments

Its working great! No Problems or regrets!

Jack D - 05/28/2016

18099

- 75673
by:
2016 Subaru Outback Wagon

Installation was easy on my 2016 Subaru Outback. I do not typically do this kind of work, and thoroughly enjoyed this little project. Etrailer videos invaluable, including tips such as lubricating the rubber muffler hangers. Re-hanging the muffler was the trickiest part of this project on my Outback. Looks great; works great. No issues with the wiring harness either. Overall a great savings over OEM, which on a Subaru has only a 1 1/2" receiver. Thank you, etrailer! 569939



- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

2017 Outback- 2" Hitch and Wiring Harness - I was too cheap to pay for the quicker delivery. No problem! The box arrived within the week (and that was with snow and zero degree temps throughout the nation!). Great start! I bought a step drill. Best $17.00 purchase ever. I just followed the directions from the box. That, and after watching the installation videos several times, gave me a good idea of what to expect. Exhaust came off perfectly. I had a can of silicone lube, which worked great for removing AND installing the rubbers in the exhaust hangers. Drilling the two holes - Drilling the access holes worked great with the step drill. Just drill until the fittings will go through. Wear some type of eye protection, and watch for the hot metal falling down into your shirt sleeves as you are drilling (Ask me how I know...). Thread the fishing wire in with the plate and bolt, and it does go right through the frame and into the smaller hole with no problem. I didn't think it could be that easy...but it was! Everything aligned perfectly. Don't remove the fishing line from the bolts. You'll do that AFTER the hitch is up and in place (so that the bolts are not pushed back up into the frame. They would be a bear to get back out!). At that point, I was ready to push the hitch up, and remove the fishing wires as I put on each nut. I figured that I could work out a way to do it by myself. After 30 minutes, I gave in and called my wife out to give me a hand. (I should have done that a half hour earlier...). I held up the hitch, she removed each wire from the bolts in the rear and threaded on the nuts. 2 minutes later, ALL the nuts were on. Maybe you can figure out a way to do it easy by yourself, but just a couple of minutes of help will save a lot of time! Tighten up the nuts... Heat shield back on (simple to trim it)...Spray a little more lube on the rubber hangers (never can use TOO much lube)...And look at what you just completed! 1:45 to complete the hitch install...including 30 minutes of "investigative time" until my wife saved the day. Installing the wiring harness - Yes, this can be 5 minutes...or an hour...depending on how quickly you can locate the wiring harness inside the panel. Removing all of the panels to get down to the spare tire was quick. Maybe a 6 year old could get their hand inside that drivers side panel, but that wire harness was very allusive. I finally cut a small (1/2") slit in the fabric panel right at the lower corner of the tie down hook. That way, I was able to lift the panel out away from the hook, and was able to see the famous "Blue Tape" and the white harness, right next to the left side of the tie down. I grabbed the harness, released it from that blue tape, yanked it down where I could plug in the new harness...and was very happy! Now that I know exactly where the harness is mounted, I could get to it a little easier. First time is always the hardest! I ran the wire through the bottom of the spare tire well. Just a small slit in the rubber grommet keeps a good seal, and then zip tie to the hitch (or a permanent mount), and it's ready to go! Thanks to etrailer.com for the great products, installation videos, and service! 332921



- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

Okay I am giving the hitch a 4 star rating only because my partner and I had a heck of a time getting the four bolts fastened on the hitch. We figured out after looking at the hitch that it was not correctly welded. We had to force the hitch from the passenger side of the hitch to the drivers side. In doing so we had little length on the bolts to get the washer and nut onto the bolt. The passenger side was okay but not the drivers side. Let's just say the quality control on my hitch was overlooked. Anyway after much struggle and repetition and trying different things we got all the washers and nuts onto the bolts. Bottom line the hitch did not align properly to make a easy fit. Outside of this problem everything went well. I loved how easy it was to use the fish hook on the bolt and get the bolts positioned in the hole. It was a snap. One other modification we did because we only had the car rear end on ramps gave us little or no room to let the mufflers (2) down so we could remove the heat shields and later on attach the hitch. We ended up taking the mufflers completely off. We then had plenty of room to work on the heat shields and drilling the extra holes on both sides. One other things be sure and use a titanium high speed steel step bit for drilling. You can purchase one at a local hardware store if it is on sale. They work great. One more thing when you go to reinstall the mufflers you are going to be tasked with very little room to get the hangars on the mufflers. Need someone strong with little hands. It is a very tight fit getting a screwdriver to the hinges. Good luck Now that the hitch is installed I like the way it looks. Looking forward to using it. On a last note the install time was 3 hours. 384570



- 75673
by:
2016 Subaru Outback Wagon

Straightforward install on a 2016 3.6R Outback Wagon. Total install time start to finish for me doing this alone was 3 hours with plenty of time for thinking, checking, and rechecking. Like several others, I came at the bolt install through the cargo area (from the top), which seems to allow us to cut a hole through a much thinner piece of metal. I used a standard 12V rechargeable drill with a 1" hole saw. No issues threading bolts into their appropriate holes. Completely straightforward. Shavings were easy to vacuum up. I can make note of three things that might provide others with a bit more insight from my install experience. 1) The rear, 'inboard' rubber muffler hangers must be completely removed so that the hitch unit can be mated to the bolts/frame. This wasn't obvious until I got the unit up and in place and found that there was room for the anchor, but not for anchor with hanger attached. The 3 other rubber hangers can remain attached to one anchor or the other. Take things apart carefully and reconfigure #1. 2) With the hitch unit hanging loosely from its 4 mounting bolts, the inboard/rear holes for the heat shield didn't match up. The 2 outboard holes were good on each side; the inboard/front holes weren't perfect, but I could get the bolt started. On both sides, I had to use a prybar between the frame and the hitch unit to add some tension (toward the vehicle centerline) in order to get that inboard/rear heat shield bolt screwed in. I was able to tighten down all remaining bolts after this. There's enough play in the hitch unit to allow for this to happen. Take things apart carefully and reconfigure #2. 3) Those inboard muffler hangers again. I found the reinstall was more challenging as my hands became slippery with blood. I suggest thin workgloves for this part. There are plenty of place to bust knuckles. The hangers are tight, there's not a lot of space to work with, and there's not a lot of play in the second muffler once the first is hung. I got it done using elbow grease and blood, but If I were doing it all again, I'd work it like this: a) hang the centerline hanger, b) work on one inboard hanger and then the other by installing them on the muffler anchor first and then slipping them over the frame anchor second. I had to wedge and lever the muffler up and over to get everything lined up nicely - lube helped a lot and a long, thin prybar was necessary, c) sort out the outboard, rear hangers last where there's more room to see and get your hands up there. Very happy with the results of a nice morning of work. Thanks. 245596



- 75673
by:
2016 Subaru Outback-Wagon

Installed the hitch yesterday. I fit perfectly - all holes lined up well. It sits somewhat behind the bumper, so it's not overly visible from the rear. I installed it by taking off the bumper facia and bumper so that I could access the frame tubes without drilling the 1 1/8 inch holes. It took considerably more time, but we keep our cars forever and I didn't like the thought of drilling such large holes. Getting the mounting hardware in place once the bumper was off was a snap. Getting the bumper into position was an ordeal. It was just me, and I couldn't raise the car. I finally got it up and aligned using an auto jack and two jack stands to support the hitch. It's just very awkward to work with. Everything went back together perfectly and the installation looks nice and clean. I also put in a wiring kit. Left the end in the wheel well rather than stringing it through to the outside. As someone notes in comments to the etrailer Youtube video, the wiring harness doesn't just magically appear like it does in the video. You have to take off the cargo hook and cut the upper blue tape and fish it out. Other than that, there's not much to it. 263604



- 75673
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Ford Flex

I'll echo most of the reviews for etrailer.com and say that the install guides were thorough and the ordering process was easy. Kudos to etrailer.com for providing such great information including the videos and reviews from previous installers (they helped immensely). I fed the bolts in from the trunk (as suggested by others) and found it quite easy. Do the rearmost cables first - I had to use another cable guide to meet the first and guide it through to both holes. I fed the first cable through the bottom until I could see it through the hole in the trunk, then I could hook it with the curly end of the second cable and bring it up through the trunk hole. The forward holes are easy. BTW, I drove my rear wheels on some 4x wood to give me some extra clearance while working under the car - I highly recommend this for comfort's sake. I'll also echo that if you can remove your muffler, you should. I couldn't remove mine, and while it didn't make things impossible, it just made everything on that side harder, especially dealing with the heat shield bolts. Which leads me to... I had only one issue with the product itself, which was mentioned in passing in other reviews - I had to flex the hitch to match up the heat shield hole. It was off by quite a bit and required me to flex it with tools. I couldn't bend it enough by hand even with all the other bolts left loose. Having my muffler in the way didn't help with this task either. I'll echo others to say that you should leave the hitch bolts only hand tight until you get the heat shield back in place for this reason. I also found that the hitch was thick enough that I had to get a slightly longer heat shield screw. Because of this trip to the local hardware store and the heat shield screw alignment issue, the install took me 3 hours instead of the 2 that others have been reporting. Now that it's in, I'm happy. It looks like it should and does what I need it to do. 146200



- 75673
by:
2018 Subaru Outback Wagon

I ordered the Hitch 75673 for my 2018 Subaru Outback 2.5i Premium, along with the T-1 wiring harness. I stuck with the free shipping instead of the expedited shipping, but it still arrived next day - shipping to Chicago! Took a week for a break in the weather before I could finally get it installed, but all went well... fits perfectly and I don't notice it's there. The box arrived in pretty good shape, but there were still just a couple of minor scrapes on the edges where I had to touch up the paint (I used Krylon "Super Maxxx" black satin spray paint -- matches perfectly). I choose the Draw-Tite because the box-hitch is tucked well under the bumper where I won't bang my shins on it. I have a 2-in-1 non-folding steel bike/cargo carrier that I'm using for camping... holds my weight (220#) plus both of my kids (~100#) jumping up and down on it. Easily holds our combined weight over 300# plus the weight of the carrier. Installed it all by myself... it was quite a chore for one person and would have been much easier with an extra set of hands. But totally do-able. Dropped the muffler with a spritz of WD-40 to help the hangers to slide off easily -- a big screwdriver helps pry them off if needed. I recommend completely removing the rear hanger from the car so it doesn't get trapped on the wrong side of the hitch when installed (ask me how I know). Before removing, I also marked on the heatshield where the rear bolt passes through (use a Sharpie down through the top rubber plug). Once removed, I used the step-bit to drill out the largest hole it would make (about 1-3/8") instead of tin-snipping the entire corner off... so when it goes back on it will still be fastened with 4 screws instead of only 3. I went the route that others have suggested and drilled-out at the rubber plugs from inside the trunk instead of holes underneath which would be exposed to the weather... makes it extremely easy to fish the bolts through as they are perfectly aligned. I picked up the large step-bit on sale at HF. Took all of about 5 minutes to drill the holes and fish the bolts through. Careful to vacuum up your metal shavings and watch the burrs around the enlarged holes. Getting the hitch into position took some cussing and careful cribbing with nobody there to help, and I don't have a floor-jack either. But I managed to bench-press it up onto a pair of milk crates then shim each side with wood boards until I was close enough to get the nuts started. Be sure your conical washers are installed with the concave side of the washer facing the hitch and the convex side facing the nut. I packing-taped the rear spacer washers onto the hitch so I wouldn't have to futz with trying to get them lined up. Also, if you didn't already completely remove the rear-most muffler hanger, make sure it is fed through the slot and not trapped above the hitch mounting plate. I torqued it down, replaced the shield and muffler hangers, touched up the drill-holes with a little spray paint and covered with aluminum tape so nothing falls in. Installing the T-1 wiring harness took almost as long as the hitch. It should honestly be about a 10-15 minute job but it took me an hour because (a) I have big hands/forearms and (b) I wasn't looking in the right place. The harness plug is located just aft of the cargo tie-down ring, behind the left passenger seat. The pigtail is looped back to the harness and taped to itself... took me awhile fumbling around blindly to find the pigtail and pull the tape apart. At first I was searching way too far aft of the tie-down... but it's right up behind the tie-down. Once I found it, it was a simple task of snapping the harness together and fastening the converter to the shock-tower using a self-tapping screw. Wherever you mount the converter, make sure your trunk liner foam piece will still fit or you might have to trim it a little. For now my plug just hangs out in the spare tire well until I need it, but I'm shopping for an external 4-pin mount so I can run it out through the rubber plug under the spare tire fasten it near the box hitch. Overall, the job went very well... took me about 2.5 hours and 3 beers to do it by myself. The video and all the comments were indispensable. Drilling from inside the trunk is the way to go unless you have a car-lift at home... and it keeps the weather out too. I just painted and taped over the holes, but next time I'm at the hardware store I'll look for the plastic plugs for cleaner look. Can't wait to load it up and take it camping! 499706



- 75673
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2018 Subaru Outback Wagon

The product was in a box that was careleessly handled by carrier. It had a large hole in it. Granted it is heavy, but it wass tossed around so carelessly that the wiring harness that was included in the box was also mangled and either someone stole the wiring harness or it was lost during transit. Tthe empty box for the harness was still there. After calling E Trailer, I spoke with a young lady within a minute or two and said she will send a new one right out. The hitch was installed on an outback and lined up perfectly. I, like others, opted to enlarge the 4 holes to the side of the spare tire from above. The holes below line up perfectley and with a little enlarging was able to pass the parts through, which allowed me to keep from cutting an additional hole in the frame. 567601



- 75673
by:
2018 Subaru Outback Wagon

The hitch from etrailer had the best price. It was delivered in about two days. The video made it easy to install. Installation took about two hours but I had a bad drill bit the caused some issues and I installed it by myself without any help. I used a jack and jack stands for assistance. 546414



- 75673
by:
Subaru Outback Wagon

The hitch fits the Subaru Outback (2014) perfectly, and it does not stick out beyond the bumper, which is good. I would mention three things. First, it IS possible to perform a 1-man installation, fairly easily, if you have a car jack. As shown in the picture, put a bucket with a cover on the car jack and raise the hitch up. Use 2x4 scraps or anything else you have to push the rails up exactly where you want them, attach the washers and nuts, and you're done. Second, pay close attention to the backing plates for the carriage bolts. The shorter one MUST go in the rear hole and the longer one MUST go in the forward hole. Otherwise the plate in the forward hole (which is too short) will spin and you won't be able to tighten the nut. Then, everything has to come out and you start over. Bad karma. Third, to drill the 1 1/8 inch holes through the frame, go to Harbor freight Tools, or to a good hardware store and buy a step drill as shown in the picture. It will cut through the frame like butter, and cut exactly the right size hole in seconds 123592



- 75673
by:
2011 Subaru Legacy

It took me about 2.5 hours to install this hitch on my 2011 Legacy and I'm very good at working on vehicles. This time included the prep time to gather tools, tape down the washers on the hitch itself and jack up the car and place it on jack stands. I used the rear differential to jack up the entire back end and place jack stands near the rear wheels on the proper crimp joist. I drilled in from the rear of the vehicle because it would be easier for one person to "fish" the wires and see them right in front of me rather than push them into the trunk area and have gravity pull them back down as I tried to feed the metal plate and lag bolt. I really am not concerned with an extra hole in the bottom the car that is blocked by the hitch even though I did put a small piece of HVAC foil tape to keep out moisture. It did get hot to drill that 1 1/8" hole in the frame. I put a piece of cardboard on my torso to block my arm from the metal shavings. As for the muffler I probably should have dropped it lower than I did but I have clasps running up and down the pipe connecting it to the heat shield to stop any rattles which drive me crazy when I drive. Rather than take them all off I chose to work in a cramped spot. This made it a little challenging to get one of the screws off of the heat shield because it's been on there for almost 6 years an the screw head broke so it took me about 25 minutes just to get the one screw off since I was trying not to break it and the metal weld it connects to was previously damaged. Nonetheless this has nothing to do with the hitch itself but rather letting people know that it's much easier to do this on a new car rather than a 6 year old car. I did not use my tin snips on the heat shield to cut away but instead cut a hole with the 1 1/8" bit to allow the screw to travel through. My torque wrench would not fit in the drivers side near the muffler so I hand tightened what I felt was necessary on the bolt. Realistically it is not going anywhere nor am I concerned it will "unscrew". I would have preferred a lock bolt with a nylon inside to ensure that but I'm happy with the product. It is heavy so beware to those attempting to install on their own laying upside down on the ground. It was NOT easy to hoist up there so I would recommend getting another pair of hands to help you. eTrailer made it very easy if you just follow the directions in the video. 276404



- 75673
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2019 Subaru Outback Wagon

The hitch went on very easily. Couple of hints: use some dish soap on the rubber pieces to make sliding the exhaust hangers off easy. Also, the hitch install is a one guy installation if one uses a milk crate to hold the hitch up while getting the nuts started on the bolts (car was on the driveway, not a lift). And wear safety glasses and long gloves when drilling the 1.125 holes in the frame (a sharp hole saw makes this a 60 second operation, but the chips are hot). The hardest part of the trailer light install is getting to the factory connector. Watch the etrailer video and remove the 10 mm bolt on the forward rear tie down as another customer advised. The instructions in the light wiring harness are too vague, but the etrailer video makes up for this. 574558



- 75673
by:
2018 Subaru Outback Wagon

Looks sturdy but I'll need to purchase some rustoleum type paint to cover that which was knocked off in shipping. I'm concerned that the paint chipped off so easily. Will the the long term life may be shortened due to rust issues. Looks sturdy, I ultimately purchased this over the competitors product due to a higher tongue load. Product looks good but the packaging is poor. 567204



- 75673
by:

Excellent product and easy to install if you do your homework. Arrived in 2 days with free shipping. Watched the videos on this site and read through the reviews for hints. I decided to take the remove the muffler route. The night before I hit the nuts and the isolators with some WD-40 and then did it again in the morning right before the project. I also also decided to go through the trunk to access the frame. It was a little nerve racking to remove the side trunk foam panels that are attached to the floor via some black clips. I couldn't find mention of these anywhere...not even on youtube. Anyway I went ahead and stuck a screwdriver underneath and carefully pried up until the clips released like projectiles. Not sure if this was the best way but no damage was done (I think). Took the muffler off. The nuts on the exhaust system were tough and had to pull out the 1/2 inch driver to get enough leverage. I had a much easier time removing the muffler off the rubber isolators than folks on this page seemed to have. It wasn't even that heavy and I have birdie arms. :) I then took off the heat shield. Now let's go top side. Ok the foam flooring has been removed and I take the black tape off the holes and then go under to take out the black plugs out of the frame holes. Now I can go top side and look down through the trunk holes and see the frame holes. Sweet. Ok now I get my handy dandy 1 1/8" step drill and start drilling. Rip zip and there goes my step drill bit right into the hole and into the frame. Good grief. The step drill bit wouldn't fit in my small drill (3/8") so I used a socket attachment for the bit. Well I didn't think ahead and when I drilled through all the way (metal is thin and the drill bit cut quickly) it fell right off into the frame. After a little panic I managed to get it back to the hole and use some needle nose pliers to grab a hold of it and fish it out. The remainder of the holes I stopped before loosing the bit again. Vacuumed out the shavings. Now I used the fish wire and installed the block and the bolt and then taped the washer to the underside on the frontward bolts. Using info gleaned from these reviews I placed the hitch on a jack and moved it into position. I wrangled it into position and hand tightened the rearward bolts first. When I went to do the front bolts the hitch wouldn't cooperate. It was getting hung up on the rearward muffler isolator which needed to be completely removed. After that it was a breeze to hand tightened the frontward bolts. Tightened everything with a torque wrench. Used the step drill to drill out a hole for the nut in the heat shield instead of cutting it. This worked great. Reinstalled the heat shield and reinstalled the rearward muffler isolator. Installed the muffler and the key here is lots of WD-40. Put some duct tape over the access holes in the trunk and reinstalled the foam panels. Start to finish in under 2 hours. Relaxed pace. 392438



- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

The hitch arrived in only 2 or 3 days! I installed it on our brand new 2017 Subaru Outback with the help of my wife. Watching the etrailer video and reading all the reviews and comments was extremely helpful. We did this quite easily in the street in front of our house without putting the back wheels up on ramps or blocks. As many before me have suggested, (read all the comments!) I fished the bolts in from above and strongly recommend this approach. Snap off the side carpet/floor pieces. then carefully get your hand under the foam pieces and snap them up (the plastic snap fastener will fly up unless you catch it). Under the foam pieces there is a hole each side of the spare tire well covered with a circle of black tape. Remove the tape and enlarge those two holes (one on each side) to 1 1/8 inch. I used a conical pipe reamer in a brace but a step bit would work great if you have one ($44 at home depot so I used what I had). I fished the wires from below and my wife pulled the wires through the access holes from above using a hemostat (needle nose plier), slipped on the heavy steel bars and threaded the bolts onto the wires. Make sure you get the short blocks towards the back and the longer ones towards the front as per instructions. Then I easily pulled the bolts into place. Leave the wires on, put the hitch under the car, route the wires through the holes in the hitch. I lifted the passenger side up close to the bolts and my wife slid in under and held it up while I went around to the driver's side, lifted the hitch up over the bolts, pulled a wire off and put a nut on finger tight without a washer. I then quickly crossed back over and held the passenger side while my wife slipped out, got one nut on, again without a washer at first. Then I could easily put the other nuts on with washers and then get the washers under the first nuts. As others suggested I drilled a large hole in the heat shield to fit around the hitch bolt rather than cut the corner off. Worked great. line up the heat shield bolts and then tighten up all the bolts. Since the car was new and had no rust I elected to remove just the muffler-two bolts, two rubber hangers, it made the job MUCH easier but if you've got a lot of rust....maybe not. Home Depot had nice metal plugs to fit 1 1/8 which I installed in access holes with sealant. Worked great. I attached a picture of the finished plugged hole and the finished hitch So, I'm 62 have experience working on things, have fair number of tools etc. , my wife is 59 . We were able to do this quite easily but it really helped that the car was new and not dirty and rusty. Very happy all around, perfect fit, easy install, like how it is tucked right under the bumper...looks great. 399405



- 75673
by:

As others have suggested, I drilled a hole from inside the spare tire area for installing the bolts. Again, as has been noted before, it is difficult to run the fish wires to the bolt holes as the fish wire's natural bend makes them want to go in opposite direction. Doing this job myself, I solved this problem by shoving another piece of semi-flexible wire (about 20" long) up through the bolt holes. With a small loop at the end to this piece, I was able to snag it when I saw it near the hole I had drilled. I then ran the end of the fish wire through the loop of the second "fish wire", bent it back onto itself to form another loop. For added security I taped both loop ends securely so I wouldn't loose the fish wire inside the frame channel, and pulled both wires out the bolt holes. Worked great! One other small note, just before you do the final tightening of the four hitch bolts, screw the two heat shield bolts through the hitch and into the frame. Now tighten and torque the hitch bolts. You can now remove the two heat shield bolts and install the heat shield. The alignment of the predrilled holes in the hitch were not exactly dead on and this step will prevent some frustration and spewing of expletives when trying to install the heat shield. 108312



- 75673
by:
Subaru Outback

I was a little intimidated by the prospect of installing this hitch, but it turned out very well in the end. Many thanks to the excellent videos at etrailer and the comments from my awesome fellow-customers. Looks great, works great, and total install time was only about 2 hours. I'm reasonably good with tools in general, but little to no auto mechanic experience. Here are a few tips I found very helpful (many of them from the other reviews). Some would have helped me decide sooner to take the plunge: 1) The hitch actually installs on four bolt holes already provided in the frame by Subaru for installing a trailer hitch. The only reason the instructions have you drilling new holes under the car is to provide a way to fish the bolts through from the top, which takes us to our next point... 2) I highly recommend drilling down from the trunk area, rather than drilling up from under the car (thanks to the other reviews for this tip!). It's not only easier, but also means your holes aren't exposed to the weather. In fact, your new holes will be entirely covered by the snap-in panels in the trunk. Other reviewers have talked about removing the bumper -- in that case you don't have to drill any holes and I'm sure it's the best approach if you're comfortable doing that. 3) You must fully remove the rubber bumper hanger that is closest to the rear of the car. It wasn't clear to me initially, and I just took the bumper off the hanger, leaving the rubber hanger attached to the car. The hitch won't fit over the rubber hanger, and you'll be in no position to deal with it once you start trying to lift the hitch into place. 4) As others have said, removing the muffler entirely is probably the best way to go. I was a little concerned about doing that, but it was easy to get off and back on. If your car is very old, it might be tougher. 5) I had a second person assist me in lifting the hitch assembly into place, and cannot imagine trying to do that by myself. Definitely get a helper! 81947


Comments

Oops - when I said bumper hanger I meant muffler hanger. Whether you remove the muffler or just it down, youll need to fully remove the rubber hanger that is closest to the back of the car.

-- comment by: Brett H - 06/02/2013

1590

Thanks for the update, very appreciated.

-- Patrick B - 6/3/2013

Comments

Wow, you did an excellent job of explaining everything you did. I agree, it sounds like drilling down instead of drilling up from the bottom of the carframe is the way to go. Once again thanks for the great job, Im ordering the hitch for our 2013 Outback today!

-- comment by: bruce v - 09/30/2013

2119

- 75673
by:
2010 Subaru Outback Wagon

I've got to start by saying that I'm rating my experience not this product. Sadly, I cannot review the product as I did not get to use it. I received the box, and it looked pretty ragged through shipping. However, the hitch itself was not damaged at all. I reviewed the installation video, read the installation instructions, and made sure I had everything together. (Side note, they had included a wiring harness, which I didn't order and wouldn't work on my car. I think that was a rare etrailer mistake.) Then I crawled under my Outback and got to work. I started on the muffler side because that's where the work really begins. However, I realized once I saw the heat shield that it had already been trimmed. I pulled it down only to find that the previous owner had attempted to install a hitch on this Outback. What was the problem? Whoever attempted it drilled the hole to install the spacers and carriage bolts, but did it right where the forward carriage bolt would be anchored!! I checked and saw the other side had the same hole. I took some measurements just to confirm, and sure enough... there was a problem. So I called etrailer customer service on a Saturday and got a human customer service agent immediately (how amazing is that?). Crystal listened to my situation and put me hold while she contacted someone else to confirm what we both expected. The etrailer experts confirmed that it was not safe to install. This totally sucks for me, and I'm pretty disappointed, but what can you do? Within minutes Crystal had authorized a return and emailed me instructions along with a return label. The only part that sucks is that the cost of return shipping will be deducted from my refund, but still... it's not like any of this was the company's fault. This is the second time I've ordered from etrailer and have had nothing but positive experiences. 504776



- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

I can't tell you how simple this process really was. After watching the short installation video provided by etrailer, and reading a couple of recommendations to drill from inside the hatch, it took me no longer than 45 minutes to fully install. I'll review the process to help others avoid having to dig too much deeper: First step was to drop the muffler. After disconnecting the 3 hangers, which with a little lubricant and the correct force popped off in a heart beat, I was able to easily remove the heat shield. Watch and follow the video for this part. Couldn't be more straight-forward. Next, I opened the hatch and removed all the internal components. Pull the mats, floor boards, etc and then pop the 2 pressure clips from each side panel, next to the spare tires. That exposed a series of pre-drilled holes, 2 of which on each side were covered with vinyl stickers. They were already drilled to about 3/4 inch, so I simple had to enlarge them to 1 1/8. Really simple. Drill open both holes, and you'll see the holes for the anchor bolts just below. Attach the wire guides, drop the bolts, etc through the holes and set up your hitch. I set my hitch on 2 jack stands to stabilize it while I propped it up to the bolts. A little adjustment to get everything lined up and it worked well. One piece of advice is to start the nuts and get them "mostly tight." Check the alignment of the heat shield before fully tightening them. I was off just a hair and could only get 3 of the 4 heat shield bolts in, so I had to loosen, adjust a hair, and start again. Once everything is lined up, bolt the hitch down tight, cut out the heat shield per the directions, and mount everything back. Start the muffler hanging on the most rear hanger and the others will pop back on with no issue. Don't shy away from this project. It's much simpler than it even seems at first. Good luck! 441259



- 75673
by:
2017 Subaru Outback Wagon

I just completed installation of the 75673 hitch onto my 2017 Subaru Outback 3.6R Ltd. As already stated in other reviews, I found the hitch to be well made and a perfect fit for the vehicle. I also strongly recommend, as others have done, that you access the frame from above. The drilling there is easier and gives you direct access above the frame holes where the bolts go. I used a step drill purchased for about $8 just for this and it was worth it. One other benefit I found by doing it this way was that it allowed the bolts to be held in place as the nuts were being put on below. It is very easy to push the bolts back up into the frame if you push too hard with the nuts. At that point the fish wire is off and you'll have a tough time getting the bolts out again. I had someone put pressure from above on the top of the bolts which kept them from coming back up as I installed the nuts from below. I also used a floor jack to lift the hitch into place. I used a C clamp to attach a 30" length of 2X2 wood stake, available at any Home Depot or Lowes, to the jack lift arm. The 2X2 stake fit perfectly into the hitch receiver and gave the additional benefit of allowing some back and forth adjustment as I lined the holes up. The only down side is that this hitch is more visible than I would prefer, but apparently it is either this one or the Curt hitch for the Subaru. The Curt hitch looked to be even more obvious after it is in place so I went with the Draw-Tite. It seems very secure and I think it will work just fine. As usual, e-trailer provided great service and was available to answer any questions. 296444


Comments

The installed hitch has been great. I towed a [rental] trailer from PA to FL and the hitch was good. I have had other Outback people ask me about it and where I got it. I highly recommended the product and etrailer.

Bob D - 09/19/2017

28305

- 75673
by:
2012 Subaru Outback Wagon

I needed a hitch for my wife 2012 Subaru Outback for hauling sport bikes to track days and occasional utility hauling. A google search brought me to the etrailer site. The biggest advantage of the trailer site is the access of instructional videos and the additional resources from their previous customers experiences and advise; I found this to be most useful for installing the hitch. The quality of the products is good, the hitch had numerous chips in the paint which may be problematic for corrosion in the future, but for the price I have no complaint. The hitch appears to be the same one offered by Uhaul. The overall costs when a complete package is ordered are about the same. Regardless of the price I would and will purchase all my future trailer need from etrailer, and will recommend etrailer to future customers. Regarding installation; (read all the the customer reviews) I would recommend drilling four holes from inside the trunk area instead of two holes from the bottom up. Additionally I recommend a $10.00 hole saw instead of the $50.00 conical shaped "step drill". The hole saw worked well, even without a pilot bit. It took about 5 minutes to drill the four holes. If you have access to floor jack, use it, it made positioning the hitch into place a one person job. Use liberal amounts of lubricant to remove the three rubber muffler mounts and remove them completely from the vehicle, it makes reinstallation easier. 182060



- 75673
by:

Great product and great price. Install was easy, I followed the video and it took about 1.5 hours at a casual pace. The only step I'd suggest doing differently is the 'fishing' step. The video puts the cable in the big hole and attempts to fish through the small (predrilled) hole. Sure it's possible, but if you do it the opposite direction, the hole is much larger and I fished it through first try every time. Just makes your life a little easier. Some reviews say to drill from inside the trunk down. I didnt do this, but I could see how it would benifit to not have another hole on the undercarriage. However, I painted the holes I drilled to ensure they do not rust. This hitch is rock solid. Im looking forward to getting some good use out of it. 557314



- 75673
by:
2016 Subaru Outback Wagon

2016 Subaru Outback. Solid hitch mount. Instructions were easy to follow. The original package was missing one of the 4 brackets that go into the frame for the bolts. It took a couple calls to have them send a new one but I got it in time. 560637



- 75673
by:
2014 Subaru Outback Wagon

I finished the hitch install on my 2014 Subaru Outback today. It went without a "hitch" so to speak. I did the job alone (age 69) and managed it well because of some hints from previous writers. First, I drilled access holes from inside the trunk area as suggested. Remove the black adhesive dots over each hole and drill them out to 1 1/8" using a step drill (see photos 1.jpg, 2.jpg, 3.jpg). I didn't have a vacuum cleaner handy so I used a small magnet to collect all the metal cuttings. (see photo 4.jpg) I then raised the rear of the car with ramps to get easier access underneath. I took off the muffler which was not too difficult once the rubber shock-absorbers were liberally doused with WD-40. Getting it back on later was another story. That thing is heavy and it took quite a few "bench-presses" to get it up and slid onto the outboard rubber shock-absorber. After that, the inner one and the final bolt-down was a lot easier. I also removed and drilled out the heat shield to clear the hitch bolt. The step-drill was perfect for this as well. I removed the small rubber plugs from the four hitch holes under the car. The holes could then be clearly seen from above so guiding the bolts and plates into the holes using the included guide-wires turned out to be extremely easy. I used my 3 ton hydraulic jack to suspend and position the hitch. I clamped it to the jack pad using two small c-clamps. Once in position an raised up, I could easily finger-tighten the rear nuts (rear of the hitch/front of the car). Then I took off the c-clamps in order to push the front of the hitch up into place with the jack. Tightening everything down to 50 ft/lbs. finished the job. I also found some plastic snap-in covers that perfectly fit the drilled holes in the trunk. I used these to seal the holes from dirt and to give it a finished appearance. (see photo 5.jpg). Next was the wiring harness. That turned out to be a bit tricky. I searched the wheel well housing on the drivers side but couldn't feel any wires. Then I found a YouTube video from a 2011 Outback that made it clear that the carpeting behind the rear seats had to be removed as well as the long foam strip adjacent to it. It is held down with three snaps...one in the front (fixed) and two loose plugs in the back. Once this was removed I was able to find and pull out the connector. The rest was easy. Plug in the connector, thread the wire back a bit, hide the black box under the wheel well housing and continue the wire around the outside edge of the trunk and into the spare-tire area. Everything went back together nicely. I brought the hitch cable up into the foam tray where it would be easier to get when needed. I plan to run it out the tailgate and I don't at all think it will be damaged by the rubber weatherseal. 130920


Comments

I did my install the same way your did. Thanks for the instructions. Helped me out A LOT.Where did find the plastic snap-in covers for the drilled holes? Would love to cover mine up as I left them open. Thanks,Joe

-- comment by: Joe B - 07/23/2014

5875
Comments

Joe, I found the gray snap-in covers at my local hardware store in the nuts and bolts section. There are cabinets with pull-out drawers and I found them there. The ones I got said 1 but they fit the slightly larger holes just fine. I liked the idea that the holes were covered to keep stuff from falling in, especially liquid spills. If you cant find the plastic covers, just use some heavy-duty duct tape.

-- comment by: Jim H - 07/24/2014

5895
Comments

I followed Jim Hs instructions on my new 2015 Outback and it was really easy. The hitch looks great and was on in under an hour.

-- comment by: Jeff S - 04/21/2015

10994
Comments

I still absolutely love the hitch. I dont even realize its there except when I need it. I also like that it doesnt compromise the road height of my Subaru. It was easy to install and looks good too. Besides, I think it adds to the overall value of my car.It would have been perfect if it came with a rubber hitch cover-plug I bought one later. I would have liked one with eTrailer written on it!

Jim H - 05/15/2015

11719

- 75673
by:

Straight forward installation. It's been holding up ok over the year. There is rust starting to show that will need to be touched up. 660665



- 75673
by:

Fast delivery. Took a little over an hour to install, instructional videos on the website were great and helped alot! UPS literally threw my package off of the back of the truck into my driveway and it got rained on for 8 hours. etrailer.com packaged the hitch and wiring so well that there was no damage at all to my shipment. definitely recommend etrailer.com! 659907



- 75673
by:
2016 Subaru Outback Wagon

Well, what can I say? This worked perfectly with our Subaru. You can't expect any more than that. 660225



- 75673
by:

Great hitch. Challenging to install by yourself, but really helps to have a drinking buddy with you for the step that requires lifting the hitch and threading the bolts. Watch the video and you'll be fine. This is really solid, no issues at all. Use it to hook up a bike rack for 4 bikes (2 adults and 2 kids), and it has never failed. Buy this!!!! 656442


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Ask the Experts about this Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch
Do you have a question about this Trailer Hitch?


  • Recommended Brake Controller for 2018 Subaru Outback
  • For a brake controller I recommend taking a look at the Curt Echo # C51180. This is a really unique controller that will simply plug into the 7-Way connector on your Outback and pair with your smartphone via Bluetooth after downloading the free app. This allows for a really simple installation and setup and eliminates the need for a separate unit to be permanently mounted inside your vehicle like other controllers. Its built-in accelerometer will activate the trailer brakes at the same...
    view full answer...

  • Differences Between Curt, Draw-Tite, and etrailer Trailer Hitches for a 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon
  • The differences that you noted are really the only difference between the Curt # C13206 and the Draw-Tite # 75673 trailer hitches for your 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon. The Curt has the round tube style but does require the support strap # 18050 for all non-trailer loads (like your bike rack) while the Draw-Tite has a square tube style and doesn't require the use of the strap. I have a 3rd option for you that combines the features that you like! The etrailer.com trailer hitch # e98847 uses...
    view full answer...

  • Does Installing EcoHitch in 2018 Subaru Outback Affect Back Up Sensors
  • I attached a picture of the Ecohitch part # 306-X7266 installed by us and you can see the back up sensor on the far end of the bumper. It wasn't a problem for us at all. Removing the foam wasn't an issue either. For the money though I would go with the Draw Tite part # 75673.
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Trailer Hitch Receiver to Fit a 2014 Subaru Outback Wagon
  • I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "direct fit" because all three of the Class III trailer hitch receivers we carry for your 2014 Subaru Outback are custom made and designed for your vehicle. The hitch that has the most factory-like look is the Ecohitch, part # 306-X7162. Once installed all you see is the open receiver tube under the rear bumper of your Subaru. Take a look at the picture I attached. The downside to this hitch is the install requries the bumper to be temporarily...
    view full answer...

  • Best Hitch Recommendations for 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon
  • For your 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon the Class III hitch I would recommend is the EcoHitch part # 306-X7266 as the overall winner. It has the higher Class III towing capacities, doesn't require the stabilizer strap when carrying a bike rack like the Curt, but also because it only has the hitch opening that hangs down below the bumper so it's the least visible. It is the most expensive though so the next best option is the Draw Tite part # 75673 which is still a great hitch but it has a visible...
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  • Why Does Curt Require Stabilizing Straps for Hitch-Mounted Bike Racks but Draw-Tite Does Not
  • The stabilizing straps are a warranty requirement that Curt recommends to help support the hitch. The strap reduces some of the tongue weight load on the hitch, reduces the tendency for attached items to move around while the vehicle is in motion, and prevents some vertical shock from being transferred to the hitch when going over bumps. Using a strap such as Item # 18050 with a Curt hitch will maintain the warranty and provide additional support. I've attached a review video that shows...
    view full answer...

  • Trailer Hitch for 2018 Subaru Outback For Carrying Kuat Transfer Bike Rack
  • For a trailer hitch to fit your 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon which will allow you to also use your Kuat Transfer # TS02G the Curt Hitch # C13206 would be your best option as it allows the rack to fold up unlike the Draw Tite. This is a 2 inch trailer hitch which very easily support your bike rack when it has the 2 inch hitch adapter installed. 2 inch hitches are preferred as they have higher capacities and have more accessories made for them. The Curt hitch will allow the rack to fold up but...
    view full answer...

  • Best Trailer Hitch for a Bike Rack on a 2019 Subaru Outback Wagon
  • I do have an option for you but the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver part # 76227 will only fit a Subaru Outback Wagon up to 2018. For your 2019 Subaru Outback Wagon you will want to use the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver part # 75673 which is a custom fit that installs using pre-drilled holes in the frame rail. I have attached a sample install video for you as well. If you can tell me what type of bikes you have I would be glad to make a bike rack recommendation...
    view full answer...

  • Availability of the EcoHitch for a 2018 Subaru Outback
  • The EcoHitch Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver Class III, # 306-X7266, has been confirmed to fit the 2018 Subaru Outback. We also carry 2 other hitches that are confirmed to fit the 2018 Subaru Outback. The Curt Class III Round Tube Receiver, # C13206, and the Draw-Tite Class III Max-Frame Receiver Hitch, # 75673, will fit this model vehicle.
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Trailer Hitch and Wiring Harness for 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon
  • The Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness # 118467 referenced in your question is indeed confirmed to fit your 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon Limited, as long as it is not the Sport model. The same wiring harness did carry over from the 2017 model Outback Wagon. This custom-fit harness will connect directly to the built-in ports located behind the driver side trim panel on the vehicle. Once installed, this will give you the necessary 4-Way at the rear of the Outback Wagon to connect with and...
    view full answer...

  • Best Trailer Hitch for 2018 Subaru Outback
  • I spoke with the trailer hitch manufacturer, who informed me that there are no changes on the 2018 Subaru models that should affect the fit of trailer hitches. I recommend going with the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III – 2", Item # 75673. The manufacturer confirmed this to fit the 2018 Subaru Outback. This hitch includes computer-aided, fully welded steel construction for maximum strength and durability, easy bolt-on installation, and a black powder...
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  • Trailer Hitch Recommendation for 2018 Subaru Outback for Thule T2 Bike Rack
  • The best option for a 2 inch hitch for your 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon is the Draw Tite part # 75673 which is a confirmed fit and doesn't require a stabilizer strap like the Curt hitch does when carrying a bike rack. This will work great with the Thule T2 Pro part # TH9034XT as well without requiring an extension. We had the chance to test fit this rack on a 2017 Outback with this hitch installed and we found it fit well. See install video and picture attached for more info.
    view full answer...

  • Draw Tite 75683 vs Curt 13206 Comparison for 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon
  • If there are only two holes on the frame of your 2017 Subaru Outback wagon the Curt hitch part # C13206 was what was installed on your vehicle. Installing this hitch allows you not to have to drill. The Draw Tite part # 75673 will require drilling but doesn't require the stabilizer strap. So it's a bit of a trade off.
    view full answer...

  • Installing Class III Trailer Hitch on 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon
  • The Draw-Tite Class III Max Frame Receiver Hitch # 76227 referenced in your question is confirmed to fit your 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon. We do not yet have (as of August 2018) an installation video for this hitch on your vehicle. I have attached the complete written installation instructions that you can take a look at. I will say that this is a relatively extensive installation process that includes the temporary removal of the bumper/fascia along with some fascia trimming. We actually...
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  • Comparison of Draw-Tite and EcoHitch Trailer Hitch Receivers on a 2011 Subaru Outback
  • You're basically hit the nail on the head with the main differences between the Draw-Tite, part # 75673, and the EcoHitch, part # 306-X7162. The Draw-Tite is less expensive and is a great hitch, but the EcoHitch has a cleaner more OEM look to it. And you're also correct that there's no reason to worry about the weight capacity since you're limited to what your 2011 Subaru Outback can handle anyway. Personally, I like the look of the EcoHitch and that's what I would go with. And don't...
    view full answer...

  • Comparing EcoHitch and Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch Receiver on 2018 Subaru Outback
  • I am familiar with the video you are referring to and though I cannot speak to their results what I can tell you is that a frame-mounted hitch such as the Draw-Tite # 75673 undergoes extensive safety testing as does the EcoHitch # 306-X7266. There are no tests from an independent source I'm aware of which would suggest an EcoHitch mounted in the bumper would be safer than the Draw-Tite mounted on the frame. The advantage of the EcoHitch # 306-X7266 is its hidden style, where only the...
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  • Recommended Trailer Hitch for 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon
  • When choosing between the two Class II trailer hitches available for your 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon, I do recommend the Draw-Tite Frame Receiver Hitch # 36493. This is because, as you mentioned, Draw-Tite does not require the use of stabilizing straps like # 18050 for non-trailer loads such as bike racks and cargo carriers, which is in part what you plan on using the hitch for. However, when looking at all of the available trailer hitches that are confirmed to fit your vehicle, I actually...
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  • Recommended 2-Inch Class III Hitch to Replace 1-1/4-Inch Factory Hitch on 2018 Subaru Outback
  • The guidance you received about not using a 2-inch hitch on your Outback would apply if you were towing a trailer. Most 4-cylinder vehicles are generally not as towing-friendly as those with a V6 or larger engine. While this caution makes sense for towing applications it dos not really apply for use with a hitch-mounted bike rack. You are correct that Subaru's OEM hitches are not great matches for accessory applications like bike or cargo carrier use, and for the reason you stated, and...
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  • Difference in Mounting Plate Thickness Between Draw-Tite and EcoHitch Hitch for 2018 Subaru Outback
  • The Draw-Tite Class III Max Frame Receiver Hitch # 76227 referenced in your question is confirmed to fit your 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon. I went out to our warehouse with a digital caliper to take a look at both this hitch and the EcoHitch # 306-X7266, which is also confirmed to fit your vehicle. I measured a thickness on the frame brackets of exactly 0.26 inches for both hitch models. I am not sure what might have caused the issue that your local installer mentioned regarding the EcoHitch...
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  • Trailer Hitch and Wiring Harness Fits for 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon
  • The Draw-Tite 2-inch Class III hitch # 75673 fits the Subaru Outback Wagon for model years 2010 through 2018 so you can install it on the new car as long as you order a replacement hardware kit # RHK. An installation video is linked for you. Hitch installation hardware cannot be re-used since it is designed to be torqued down only once. You can order a complete new hardware kit using the part number RHK and your hitch part number 75673. This will enable you to safely install the hitch...
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  • Recommended Ball Mount for 2018 Subaru Outback with Draw-Tite Hitch
  • Your hitch pin hole on your hitch receiver # 75673 is about 5 inches from the outer part of your bumper. The Curt Ball Mount # D-26 you mentioned measures 12-5/8 inches from the center of the pin hole to the center of the hitch ball, so that would be overkill. I recommend the etrailer.com Ball Mount Kit for 2" Hitches - 7,500 lbs # 989900 which will have a measurement of 8-1/2 inches from center of pin to center of hitch ball or 9 inches depending on which draw bar is used. This...
    view full answer...

  • Installation of Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch Receivers on a 2012 Subaru Outback
  • We carry two Draw-Tite Max-Frame Class III trailer hitch receivers that fit the 2012 Subaru Outback. Part # 76227 which we have not had the chance to make any videos on and part # 75673 which we do have a video of. I've linked it to this page. The first hitch is a more in depth install because it requires removing the bumper during the install process.
    view full answer...

  • Which Hitch for 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon is Least Visible
  • From a visibility point of view the Draw Tite hitch part # 75673 will be your best option for your 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon. This hitch is also better priced. They both sit very close to the same distance from the ground. The Curt # C13206 is 15-1/4 inches from the ground and the Draw Tite is 15 inches. What really makes the Draw Tite less visible is that it is tucked in closer under the vehicle than the Curt. The Curt's hitch pin is 2-1/4 inches from the outer edge of the rear bumper...
    view full answer...


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