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Price: $161.84

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Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"

Item # 75673

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Retail:$229.16

Our Price: $161.84

Trailer Hitch

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Product Images

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draw-tite trailer hitch  max-frame receiver - custom fit class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch class iii
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch class iii 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch class iii 75673

In Use/Installed

2017 subaru outback wagon trailer hitch draw-tite custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
2017 subaru outback wagon trailer hitch draw-tite  75673
2017 subaru outback wagon trailer hitch draw-tite custom fit class iii max-frame receiver - 2 inch
2017 subaru outback wagon trailer hitch draw-tite custom fit class iii in use
2017 subaru outback wagon trailer hitch draw-tite class iii 75673
2017 subaru outback wagon trailer hitch draw-tite class iii 75673
2017 subaru outback wagon trailer hitch draw-tite custom fit 75673
2017 subaru outback wagon trailer hitch draw-tite class iii in use
2017 subaru outback wagon trailer hitch draw-tite custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
2017 subaru outback wagon trailer hitch draw-tite custom fit in use

Customer Photos

draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch class iii 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch class iii 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch class iii 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch class iii 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch class iii 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch class iii 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch class iii 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch class iii in use
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit in use
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch class iii 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch class iii in use
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch class iii 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch class iii in use
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit in use
draw-tite trailer hitch class iii 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch class iii 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch class iii 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch class iii in use
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch class iii 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch class iii in use
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit in use
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit max-frame receiver - class iii 2 inch
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673
draw-tite trailer hitch custom fit 75673

  • Draw-Tite
  • Class III
  • 2 Inch Hitch
  • 4000 lbs GTW
  • 600 lbs TW
  • Visible Cross Tube
  • Custom Fit Hitch
Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection. Lowest Prices for the best trailer hitch from Draw-Tite. Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" part number 75673 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.



Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch - 75673

Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection.


Features:

  • Custom-fit trailer hitch lets you tow a trailer or carry a bike rack or cargo carrier with your vehicle
  • Computer-aided, fully welded steel construction ensures strength and durability
  • Tested Tough - safety and reliability criteria exceed industry standards
  • Easy, bolt-on installation - no welding required
    • Complete hardware kit and installation instructions included
  • Lifetime technical support from the experts at etrailer.com
  • Black powder coat finish covers e-coat base for superior rust protection
  • Sturdy, square-tube design
  • Ball mount, pin and clip sold separately


Specs:

  • Receiver opening: 2" x 2"
  • Rating: Class III
    • Maximum gross trailer weight: 4,000 lbs
    • Maximum tongue weight: 600 lbs
    • Not rated for use with weight-distribution systems
  • Limited lifetime warranty


Draw-Tite Tested Tough

Draw-Tite Tested Tough

Draw-Tite's Tested Tough program provides testing standards far superior to those outlined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), the go-to source for engineering professionals.



Each Draw-Tite trailer hitch receiver undergoes extensive fatigue testing and static testing with the ball mount that is either supplied or recommended for use with that particular hitch, thus ensuring results that are applicable to real life use. Fatigue testing is also conducted on hitches rated for use with weight-distribution systems.


In addition, Draw-Tite performs static testing on a simulated automobile, as opposed to the rigid fixture used for SAE testing, resulting in a more true-to-life scenario.


etrailer.com Technical Support

At etrailer.com we're committed to the products we sell, and to our customers. Our experienced and knowledgeable staff are available via both phone and email to address your questions and concerns for the lifetime of your hitch. The technicians at etrailer perform hitch installations on a daily basis, making them a valuable resource for do-it-yourselfers. The one-on-one, personal service you'll receive comes straight from an expert in the towing and automotive field. We've installed it, we've wired it and we've towed with it, so whatever your question, we can answer it.



75673 Draw-Tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver - Max-Frame

87568 Hidden Hitch Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver



75673 Installation InstructionsInstallation Details 75673 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2010 - 2018 Subaru Legacy

2013 - 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon

2010 - 2012 Subaru Outback Wagon excluding Sport




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Replacement parts available for this product







Video of Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Hitch Installation - 2016 Subaru Legacy - Draw-Tite

Today on our 2016 Subaru Legacy we'll be installing the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver, Class 3 2" receiver, part number 75673. As you can see, it's a very clean look, very minimal amount is showing. You don't have any crossbars coming down that supports the frame really, you just have the main two body of the hitch and the actual 2" receiver itself. As you can see, our hitch as two holes on it. The larger one is for the 5/8" diameter pin, the smaller hole is for our J-Pin device, and that is a device that is inserted to help reduce the rattle and shake in the receiver tube for your accessory that's inside of it that's provided if your accessory doesn't already have its own anti-rattle device built into it Now, this 2" Class 3 receiver hitch has a 4,000 pound max trailer weight rating and it has a 600 pound max tongue weight rating. Obviously, you'll want to consult with the owner's manual of your vehicle and go by whichever one's lower before you decide to use a cargo carrier or tow a trailer, that way you don't exceed the limits of the hitch or the vehicle.

This hitch is not compatible with weight distribution setups. Now for a couple of measurements to help you choosing any hitch-mounted accessories you may need, such as ball mounts, bike carriers or cargo carriers, you're looking at a total of around 10 1/2" from the ground to the top of the 2" received, as well as about 6" from the center of the 5/8" diameter hitch pin hole to the back of our bumper. First thing we want to do in order to install our hitch is temporarily lower the exhaust down, spray the hangers with some lubricant to help make them slide off slightly easier. There's two on either side of the vehicle just above the mufflers and there's a third one just in front of the rear axle and we can pry them off with a pry bar, just like that. For the rear hangers, we'll do the same thing and pry against the hook right there. Now there's two more in front of the muffler on either side, so we'll spray those down as well.

Now, we need to remove our heat shields above both of our mufflers. To do that, there's four 10mm bolts. Make sure we set our bolts to the side because we will be re-installing them later. We'll do the same on the other side. Now, there's four rubber plugs and some holes in the frame rail. We're just going to pop them out.

There's one on each side in front of where the muffler was and one towards the back of it. With those removed, we can set them down. We will not be re-installing them, but we can always keep them in case we decide to take our hitch off at some point. We'll do the same on the other side. And now we'll measure back from our existing hole to mark the location that we're going to drill for our new hole.

As always, when drilling into metal, I highly recommend wearing safety glasses and gloves to protect you from metal shavings. Now that we've enlarged our hole to the 1 1/8" diameter, our placer plates slide in nicely. We repeat the process on the other side. Now we take our fish wire here, put it through the forward hole, bring it down to the access hole we drilled, take our 3" long spacer block, put it on the wire, push it up inside the frame rail, thread our carriage bolt onto the fish wire, push it up inside, pull it on down. Now we'll do the same thing on our rear hole, but using the 2" long spacer bar. Pull it down. We'll repeat the same process on the other side. Now that we have all our bolts fish wired to the frame of our vehicle, we need to prep the hitch for installation. Now, there's a flat washer here that goes on the forward bolt hole. But here's a little tech tip, so you don't have to worry about holding the washer in place, put a piece of tape on it like so and tape it into position on our hitch, wrap it around and you can poke a hole in it and our bolt will go through nice and easy. We'll do that to the other side of the hitch as well. Now, when you get ready to install the hitch, just make sure that you have your exhaust lowered. If you have to lower it a little bit further, you have it supported by a strap so it doesn't cause any damage further up in the system. Now with the help of an assistant, we'll raise the hitch into position and we'll install our conical tooth washers facing the hitch with the teeth and then we'll use our nuts to secure it and do the same on the back side, just like so. Little tech tip here, if we re-install our exhaust heat shield bolts in the holes, just loosely for right now, we can easily align the hitch properly before we tighten it down. That way the hitch won't cover up any of the bolt holes and we'll be able to install our heat shields real easily. With our heat shield bolts temporarily in place, we can snug down our hitch using 11/16" socket. Now with our heat shields, we need to trim them a little bit so our bolt heads for our hitch sit flush against the heat shield and our heat shield won't rattle. Just going to trim out this section here on the right-hand side, for the left hand side we'll do the same thing, slightly different. So we use a pair of tin snips and cut this out. We'll do the same thing with the other head shield. With our head shield trimmed, we can remove our bolts that we loosely put into it, we'll slide over the exhaust hanger there. We install one of our bolts. We'll add the other three. With our four bolt loosely installed, we can snug them down and we can repeat the process for the other side. With our hitch up, torque our bolts down to the manufacturers' specification, which you can find in the instruction manual and repeat the process for the other three bolts. Now we can raise our exhaust back into position. Now we can reinstall our exhaust hangers, push it on the stud, maneuver the muffler into place. We have that one done. Now we have four more to do. Perfect. With that done, we have all our exhaust hangers reinstalled. Make sure to remove our strap belt that we used to help support the exhaust and that completes the installation of our Draw-Tite Max-Frame Receiver Class 3 with 2" Receiver, part number 75673 on our 2016 Subaru Legacy.


Customer Reviews

Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" - 75673

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (533 Customer Reviews)

Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection.

- 75673

by:


I finished the hitch install on my 2014 Subaru Outback today. It went without a "hitch" so to speak. I did the job alone (age 69) and managed it well because of some hints from previous writers. First, I drilled access holes from inside the trunk area as suggested. Remove the black adhesive dots over each hole and drill them out to 1 1/8" using a step drill (see photos 1.jpg, 2.jpg, 3.jpg). I didn't have a vacuum cleaner handy so I used a small magnet to collect all the metal cuttings. (see photo 4.jpg) I then raised the rear of the car with ramps to get easier access underneath. I took off the muffler which was not too difficult once the rubber shock-absorbers were liberally doused with WD-40. Getting it back on later was another story. That thing is heavy and it took quite a few "bench-presses" to get it up and slid onto the outboard rubber shock-absorber. After that, the inner one and the final bolt-down was a lot easier. I also removed and drilled out the heat shield to clear the hitch bolt. The step-drill was perfect for this as well. I removed the small rubber plugs from the four hitch holes under the car. The holes could then be clearly seen from above so guiding the bolts and plates into the holes using the included guide-wires turned out to be extremely easy. I used my 3 ton hydraulic jack to suspend and position the hitch. I clamped it to the jack pad using two small c-clamps. Once in position an raised up, I could easily finger-tighten the rear nuts (rear of the hitch/front of the car). Then I took off the c-clamps in order to push the front of the hitch up into place with the jack. Tightening everything down to 50 ft/lbs. finished the job. I also found some plastic snap-in covers that perfectly fit the drilled holes in the trunk. I used these to seal the holes from dirt and to give it a finished appearance. (see photo 5.jpg). Next was the wiring harness. That turned out to be a bit tricky. I searched the wheel well housing on the drivers side but couldn't feel any wires. Then I found a YouTube video from a 2011 Outback that made it clear that the carpeting behind the rear seats had to be removed as well as the long foam strip adjacent to it. It is held down with three snaps...one in the front (fixed) and two loose plugs in the back. Once this was removed I was able to find and pull out the connector. The rest was easy. Plug in the connector, thread the wire back a bit, hide the black box under the wheel well housing and continue the wire around the outside edge of the trunk and into the spare-tire area. Everything went back together nicely. I brought the hitch cable up into the foam tray where it would be easier to get when needed. I plan to run it out the tailgate and I don't at all think it will be damaged by the rubber weatherseal. 130920


Comments

I did my install the same way your did. Thanks for the instructions. Helped me out A LOT.Where did find the plastic snap-in covers for the drilled holes? Would love to cover mine up as I left them open. Thanks,Joe

-- comment by: Joe B - 07/23/2014

5875
Comments

Joe, I found the gray snap-in covers at my local hardware store in the nuts and bolts section. There are cabinets with pull-out drawers and I found them there. The ones I got said 1 but they fit the slightly larger holes just fine. I liked the idea that the holes were covered to keep stuff from falling in, especially liquid spills. If you cant find the plastic covers, just use some heavy-duty duct tape.

-- comment by: Jim H - 07/24/2014

5895
Comments

I followed Jim Hs instructions on my new 2015 Outback and it was really easy. The hitch looks great and was on in under an hour.

-- comment by: Jeff S - 04/21/2015

10994
Comments

I still absolutely love the hitch. I dont even realize its there except when I need it. I also like that it doesnt compromise the road height of my Subaru. It was easy to install and looks good too. Besides, I think it adds to the overall value of my car.It would have been perfect if it came with a rubber hitch cover-plug I bought one later. I would have liked one with eTrailer written on it!

Jim H - 05/15/2015

11719

- 75673

by:


Excellent product and easy to install if you do your homework. Arrived in 2 days with free shipping. Watched the videos on this site and read through the reviews for hints. I decided to take the remove the muffler route. The night before I hit the nuts and the isolators with some WD-40 and then did it again in the morning right before the project. I also also decided to go through the trunk to access the frame. It was a little nerve racking to remove the side trunk foam panels that are attached to the floor via some black clips. I couldn't find mention of these anywhere...not even on youtube. Anyway I went ahead and stuck a screwdriver underneath and carefully pried up until the clips released like projectiles. Not sure if this was the best way but no damage was done (I think). Took the muffler off. The nuts on the exhaust system were tough and had to pull out the 1/2 inch driver to get enough leverage. I had a much easier time removing the muffler off the rubber isolators than folks on this page seemed to have. It wasn't even that heavy and I have birdie arms. :) I then took off the heat shield. Now let's go top side. Ok the foam flooring has been removed and I take the black tape off the holes and then go under to take out the black plugs out of the frame holes. Now I can go top side and look down through the trunk holes and see the frame holes. Sweet. Ok now I get my handy dandy 1 1/8" step drill and start drilling. Rip zip and there goes my step drill bit right into the hole and into the frame. Good grief. The step drill bit wouldn't fit in my small drill (3/8") so I used a socket attachment for the bit. Well I didn't think ahead and when I drilled through all the way (metal is thin and the drill bit cut quickly) it fell right off into the frame. After a little panic I managed to get it back to the hole and use some needle nose pliers to grab a hold of it and fish it out. The remainder of the holes I stopped before loosing the bit again. Vacuumed out the shavings. Now I used the fish wire and installed the block and the bolt and then taped the washer to the underside on the frontward bolts. Using info gleaned from these reviews I placed the hitch on a jack and moved it into position. I wrangled it into position and hand tightened the rearward bolts first. When I went to do the front bolts the hitch wouldn't cooperate. It was getting hung up on the rearward muffler isolator which needed to be completely removed. After that it was a breeze to hand tightened the frontward bolts. Tightened everything with a torque wrench. Used the step drill to drill out a hole for the nut in the heat shield instead of cutting it. This worked great. Reinstalled the heat shield and reinstalled the rearward muffler isolator. Installed the muffler and the key here is lots of WD-40. Put some duct tape over the access holes in the trunk and reinstalled the foam panels. Start to finish in under 2 hours. Relaxed pace. 392438



- 75673

by:


2017 Outback- 2" Hitch and Wiring Harness - I was too cheap to pay for the quicker delivery. No problem! The box arrived within the week (and that was with snow and zero degree temps throughout the nation!). Great start! I bought a step drill. Best $17.00 purchase ever. I just followed the directions from the box. That, and after watching the installation videos several times, gave me a good idea of what to expect. Exhaust came off perfectly. I had a can of silicone lube, which worked great for removing AND installing the rubbers in the exhaust hangers. Drilling the two holes - Drilling the access holes worked great with the step drill. Just drill until the fittings will go through. Wear some type of eye protection, and watch for the hot metal falling down into your shirt sleeves as you are drilling (Ask me how I know...). Thread the fishing wire in with the plate and bolt, and it does go right through the frame and into the smaller hole with no problem. I didn't think it could be that easy...but it was! Everything aligned perfectly. Don't remove the fishing line from the bolts. You'll do that AFTER the hitch is up and in place (so that the bolts are not pushed back up into the frame. They would be a bear to get back out!). At that point, I was ready to push the hitch up, and remove the fishing wires as I put on each nut. I figured that I could work out a way to do it by myself. After 30 minutes, I gave in and called my wife out to give me a hand. (I should have done that a half hour earlier...). I held up the hitch, she removed each wire from the bolts in the rear and threaded on the nuts. 2 minutes later, ALL the nuts were on. Maybe you can figure out a way to do it easy by yourself, but just a couple of minutes of help will save a lot of time! Tighten up the nuts... Heat shield back on (simple to trim it)...Spray a little more lube on the rubber hangers (never can use TOO much lube)...And look at what you just completed! 1:45 to complete the hitch install...including 30 minutes of "investigative time" until my wife saved the day. Installing the wiring harness - Yes, this can be 5 minutes...or an hour...depending on how quickly you can locate the wiring harness inside the panel. Removing all of the panels to get down to the spare tire was quick. Maybe a 6 year old could get their hand inside that drivers side panel, but that wire harness was very allusive. I finally cut a small (1/2") slit in the fabric panel right at the lower corner of the tie down hook. That way, I was able to lift the panel out away from the hook, and was able to see the famous "Blue Tape" and the white harness, right next to the left side of the tie down. I grabbed the harness, released it from that blue tape, yanked it down where I could plug in the new harness...and was very happy! Now that I know exactly where the harness is mounted, I could get to it a little easier. First time is always the hardest! I ran the wire through the bottom of the spare tire well. Just a small slit in the rubber grommet keeps a good seal, and then zip tie to the hitch (or a permanent mount), and it's ready to go! Thanks to etrailer.com for the great products, installation videos, and service! 332921



- 75673

by:


The hitch arrived in only 2 or 3 days! I installed it on our brand new 2017 Subaru Outback with the help of my wife. Watching the etrailer video and reading all the reviews and comments was extremely helpful. We did this quite easily in the street in front of our house without putting the back wheels up on ramps or blocks. As many before me have suggested, (read all the comments!) I fished the bolts in from above and strongly recommend this approach. Snap off the side carpet/floor pieces. then carefully get your hand under the foam pieces and snap them up (the plastic snap fastener will fly up unless you catch it). Under the foam pieces there is a hole each side of the spare tire well covered with a circle of black tape. Remove the tape and enlarge those two holes (one on each side) to 1 1/8 inch. I used a conical pipe reamer in a brace but a step bit would work great if you have one ($44 at home depot so I used what I had). I fished the wires from below and my wife pulled the wires through the access holes from above using a hemostat (needle nose plier), slipped on the heavy steel bars and threaded the bolts onto the wires. Make sure you get the short blocks towards the back and the longer ones towards the front as per instructions. Then I easily pulled the bolts into place. Leave the wires on, put the hitch under the car, route the wires through the holes in the hitch. I lifted the passenger side up close to the bolts and my wife slid in under and held it up while I went around to the driver's side, lifted the hitch up over the bolts, pulled a wire off and put a nut on finger tight without a washer. I then quickly crossed back over and held the passenger side while my wife slipped out, got one nut on, again without a washer at first. Then I could easily put the other nuts on with washers and then get the washers under the first nuts. As others suggested I drilled a large hole in the heat shield to fit around the hitch bolt rather than cut the corner off. Worked great. line up the heat shield bolts and then tighten up all the bolts. Since the car was new and had no rust I elected to remove just the muffler-two bolts, two rubber hangers, it made the job MUCH easier but if you've got a lot of rust....maybe not. Home Depot had nice metal plugs to fit 1 1/8 which I installed in access holes with sealant. Worked great. I attached a picture of the finished plugged hole and the finished hitch So, I'm 62 have experience working on things, have fair number of tools etc. , my wife is 59 . We were able to do this quite easily but it really helped that the car was new and not dirty and rusty. Very happy all around, perfect fit, easy install, like how it is tucked right under the bumper...looks great. 399405



- 75673

by:


I was a little intimidated by the prospect of installing this hitch, but it turned out very well in the end. Many thanks to the excellent videos at etrailer and the comments from my awesome fellow-customers. Looks great, works great, and total install time was only about 2 hours. I'm reasonably good with tools in general, but little to no auto mechanic experience. Here are a few tips I found very helpful (many of them from the other reviews). Some would have helped me decide sooner to take the plunge: 1) The hitch actually installs on four bolt holes already provided in the frame by Subaru for installing a trailer hitch. The only reason the instructions have you drilling new holes under the car is to provide a way to fish the bolts through from the top, which takes us to our next point... 2) I highly recommend drilling down from the trunk area, rather than drilling up from under the car (thanks to the other reviews for this tip!). It's not only easier, but also means your holes aren't exposed to the weather. In fact, your new holes will be entirely covered by the snap-in panels in the trunk. Other reviewers have talked about removing the bumper -- in that case you don't have to drill any holes and I'm sure it's the best approach if you're comfortable doing that. 3) You must fully remove the rubber bumper hanger that is closest to the rear of the car. It wasn't clear to me initially, and I just took the bumper off the hanger, leaving the rubber hanger attached to the car. The hitch won't fit over the rubber hanger, and you'll be in no position to deal with it once you start trying to lift the hitch into place. 4) As others have said, removing the muffler entirely is probably the best way to go. I was a little concerned about doing that, but it was easy to get off and back on. If your car is very old, it might be tougher. 5) I had a second person assist me in lifting the hitch assembly into place, and cannot imagine trying to do that by myself. Definitely get a helper! 81947


Comments

Oops - when I said bumper hanger I meant muffler hanger. Whether you remove the muffler or just it down, youll need to fully remove the rubber hanger that is closest to the back of the car.

-- comment by: Brett H - 06/02/2013

1590

Thanks for the update, very appreciated.

-- Patrick B - 6/3/2013

Comments

Wow, you did an excellent job of explaining everything you did. I agree, it sounds like drilling down instead of drilling up from the bottom of the carframe is the way to go. Once again thanks for the great job, Im ordering the hitch for our 2013 Outback today!

-- comment by: bruce v - 09/30/2013

2119

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Straightforward install on a 2016 3.6R Outback Wagon. Total install time start to finish for me doing this alone was 3 hours with plenty of time for thinking, checking, and rechecking. Like several others, I came at the bolt install through the cargo area (from the top), which seems to allow us to cut a hole through a much thinner piece of metal. I used a standard 12V rechargeable drill with a 1" hole saw. No issues threading bolts into their appropriate holes. Completely straightforward. Shavings were easy to vacuum up. I can make note of three things that might provide others with a bit more insight from my install experience. 1) The rear, 'inboard' rubber muffler hangers must be completely removed so that the hitch unit can be mated to the bolts/frame. This wasn't obvious until I got the unit up and in place and found that there was room for the anchor, but not for anchor with hanger attached. The 3 other rubber hangers can remain attached to one anchor or the other. Take things apart carefully and reconfigure #1. 2) With the hitch unit hanging loosely from its 4 mounting bolts, the inboard/rear holes for the heat shield didn't match up. The 2 outboard holes were good on each side; the inboard/front holes weren't perfect, but I could get the bolt started. On both sides, I had to use a prybar between the frame and the hitch unit to add some tension (toward the vehicle centerline) in order to get that inboard/rear heat shield bolt screwed in. I was able to tighten down all remaining bolts after this. There's enough play in the hitch unit to allow for this to happen. Take things apart carefully and reconfigure #2. 3) Those inboard muffler hangers again. I found the reinstall was more challenging as my hands became slippery with blood. I suggest thin workgloves for this part. There are plenty of place to bust knuckles. The hangers are tight, there's not a lot of space to work with, and there's not a lot of play in the second muffler once the first is hung. I got it done using elbow grease and blood, but If I were doing it all again, I'd work it like this: a) hang the centerline hanger, b) work on one inboard hanger and then the other by installing them on the muffler anchor first and then slipping them over the frame anchor second. I had to wedge and lever the muffler up and over to get everything lined up nicely - lube helped a lot and a long, thin prybar was necessary, c) sort out the outboard, rear hangers last where there's more room to see and get your hands up there. Very happy with the results of a nice morning of work. Thanks. 245596



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I needed a hitch for my wife 2012 Subaru Outback for hauling sport bikes to track days and occasional utility hauling. A google search brought me to the etrailer site. The biggest advantage of the trailer site is the access of instructional videos and the additional resources from their previous customers experiences and advise; I found this to be most useful for installing the hitch. The quality of the products is good, the hitch had numerous chips in the paint which may be problematic for corrosion in the future, but for the price I have no complaint. The hitch appears to be the same one offered by Uhaul. The overall costs when a complete package is ordered are about the same. Regardless of the price I would and will purchase all my future trailer need from etrailer, and will recommend etrailer to future customers. Regarding installation; (read all the the customer reviews) I would recommend drilling four holes from inside the trunk area instead of two holes from the bottom up. Additionally I recommend a $10.00 hole saw instead of the $50.00 conical shaped "step drill". The hole saw worked well, even without a pilot bit. It took about 5 minutes to drill the four holes. If you have access to floor jack, use it, it made positioning the hitch into place a one person job. Use liberal amounts of lubricant to remove the three rubber muffler mounts and remove them completely from the vehicle, it makes reinstallation easier. 182060



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I received my Draw-Tite Class III 2" hitch receiver from etrailer last week. Living in Portland OR I needed to wait for a dry, relatively warm day. I have a lift in my garage and it would have been much easier to put my 2014 Subaru Outback wagon on it but the lift is occupied my other (first) car ... a 1957 Chevy Wagon. I made the preparations for installing the the hitch bolts from the inside the cargo area as suggested by others. With all the upholstery and padding out of the way, I was also able install the custom trailer wiring harness (also purchased at etrailer) in no time. BUT ... no double-sided tape was included with the harness (I had some double-sided tape at home ... no problem). A step drill and interior panel removers from HF made the job go easily. After reading other's reviews, I decided to check to make sure there were not different sized carriage bolts and nuts. I did not have that problem ... there were no nuts included in the package. No worries, I was headed to the hardware store to get the 1-1/8" panel plugs anyway. I had watched the installation video several time so it was all familiar territory when I climbed underneath. The most difficult part was removing the muffler/tailpipe hangers. The muffler came down and was moved aside. A word of caution: Wear your safety goggles or a face shield. A lot of road debris (pea-gravel, dust, etc) was waiting to fall when I loosened the heat shield. I mounted the hitch to my floor jack (strapped it down to keep it level) as mentioned by others. My wife was there to pump the jack as I guided the hitch into position and fed the bolt wires through the mounting holes. Then installed the mounting washes and nuts finger tight ... so I could align the holes for the heat shield bolts. Instead of cutting off the heat shield corner, I chose to use a hole saw to make clearance for the forward left-side mounting washer and nut. I dragged out the torque wrench to tighten everything down. That is when I realized there were no torque specs for the mounting nuts. I ran to the computer to get the tech line number. I called explained my plight and was given the information ([specs] ft-lbs). Bolts torqued, heat shield bolted back in place, and the muffler and tailpipe reattached, it was feeling of accomplishment for an afternoon project. Except for a few deficiencies (double-sided tape, nuts, and torque specs) it was an easy install for me. Very straight forward. No real surprises. I am very pleased with the results. tip: If you are doing the install in the driveway, use the box the hitch came in to lie on. 358881



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It took me about 2.5 hours to install this hitch on my 2011 Legacy and I'm very good at working on vehicles. This time included the prep time to gather tools, tape down the washers on the hitch itself and jack up the car and place it on jack stands. I used the rear differential to jack up the entire back end and place jack stands near the rear wheels on the proper crimp joist. I drilled in from the rear of the vehicle because it would be easier for one person to "fish" the wires and see them right in front of me rather than push them into the trunk area and have gravity pull them back down as I tried to feed the metal plate and lag bolt. I really am not concerned with an extra hole in the bottom the car that is blocked by the hitch even though I did put a small piece of HVAC foil tape to keep out moisture. It did get hot to drill that 1 1/8" hole in the frame. I put a piece of cardboard on my torso to block my arm from the metal shavings. As for the muffler I probably should have dropped it lower than I did but I have clasps running up and down the pipe connecting it to the heat shield to stop any rattles which drive me crazy when I drive. Rather than take them all off I chose to work in a cramped spot. This made it a little challenging to get one of the screws off of the heat shield because it's been on there for almost 6 years an the screw head broke so it took me about 25 minutes just to get the one screw off since I was trying not to break it and the metal weld it connects to was previously damaged. Nonetheless this has nothing to do with the hitch itself but rather letting people know that it's much easier to do this on a new car rather than a 6 year old car. I did not use my tin snips on the heat shield to cut away but instead cut a hole with the 1 1/8" bit to allow the screw to travel through. My torque wrench would not fit in the drivers side near the muffler so I hand tightened what I felt was necessary on the bolt. Realistically it is not going anywhere nor am I concerned it will "unscrew". I would have preferred a lock bolt with a nylon inside to ensure that but I'm happy with the product. It is heavy so beware to those attempting to install on their own laying upside down on the ground. It was NOT easy to hoist up there so I would recommend getting another pair of hands to help you. eTrailer made it very easy if you just follow the directions in the video. 276404



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First of all, let it be said that nothing trumps good engineering. My hitch and wiring harness harness arrived 2-3 days after I ordered it. Unlike others here, my shipping container was completely intact. Like others, the etrailer.com decal was crooked, wrinkled and looked silly. I removed it. The installation of the wiring harness was just as simple and the video suggests. In spite of the fact that the Molex connector was right where it was supposed to be, I could not find it right away. I used a bathroom mirror reflecting up and behind the trim panel to find it. There are some sharp edges and this may have saved a cut or two to my hand by not having to dig around for it. The hitch was also no more difficult to install that the video suggested. I strongly advise that you use a lubricant to remove the muffler hangers as they slide right off (and on again) with ease. Unlike some others, I had no problem drilling the access holes in the frame. Be sure your bits are sharp and good quality. I did however buy two plastic plugs to cap the holes and sprayed the bare metal with auto primer. One nice surprise was that the parts bag included 4 of the wire fish tapes. I planned to have to create these myself. They were absolutely perfect. I entered through my access hole and the lead end popped right through the other hole with almost no effort each time. I left the wires attached until after I positioned the hitch to the bolts. I made it easier to line the four up, install the spacer washers in the front and I also didn't risk pushing the unattached bolts up and into the frame. One word of advice: don't torque the hitch until you reattach the heat shield. Two of the heat shield screws need to pass through the hitch. If it's tight to the frame and the holes don't line up you need to loosen the hitch and reposition it. Total install time, including the wiring harness was about 2-1/2 hours. I didn't have an extra set of hands or it would have taken about 15 minutes less. It can be done alone, but it's awkward. The hitch looks great in that it's barely noticeable (and nicely recessed) under my bumper. I can't say enough good things about this product and etrailer. I saved hundreds of dollars and have the knowledge that nobody boogered up the undercarriage of my beloved Subie. 124715



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Overall, I am very pleased with the entire purchasing and installation process, as well as the finished product. What makes this website great, is the depth of information in pictures, videos, and reviews of the different hitch options. I felt that all of this helped lead me to the choice of hitch that best fit my needs and expectations. This particular hitch is great if you don't want the installed product to protrude out too visibly, or extend out to where you would accidentally strike your shin/knee against it. The hitch tucks away nicely underneath the bumper. In theory, this could limit some choices in accessories, but the aesthetic gains more than compensate for that in my opinion. I chose to remove the bumper cover for installation, so that no drilling or wire-fishing would be necessary. I can see why the sellers don't recommend this option, as it requires reasonable amounts of finesse with the various bumper fasteners and cover. However, if you consider yourself a technical and mechanically inclined person, this is rather simple process that is fairly well described by others online. When the bumper cover is off, the hitch hanging bolts can be fed in through the "frame tubes" that are covered by the bumper. For a one person install, the most difficult thing for me was actually holding the hitch in place as I threaded the fasteners on to fasten it. Having someone supply an extra set of hands for this part would make it very simple and easy. Although we don't plan to do much actual towing, it is nice to have the option with this class of hitch, considering the respectable weight ratings. This was purchased with accessories (bike racks, etc.) in mind, but is a good value considering what the lighter hitches cost. And, it is reasonably inconspicuous when installed. 297517



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Superb service and delivery. 100% recommendation for this web business. I also saved $100 over the prices of my local retailers! The installation videos are excellent. Be sure to watch the wiring harness video too; at the -4:18 mark note the 1" round black cover between the two white clip fasteners along the side of the cargo space.. There are actually two black covers on each side of the cargo space. They cover holes that give you access from above to the frame holes for the trailer hitch underneath the car. I enlarged the access holes a little with a jig saw and later pulled the mounting bolts through from the top. (the steel guide wires provided work like a champ---no risk of losing parts in the frame! ) Since I used the holes above I did not have to drill the 1 1/8" holes in the side of the frame underneath. I did my install with the vehicle on the ground. I used one jack stand in front of the driver side rear tire and had easy access to the exhaust hangers. The hitch is fairly large and heavy so I started from inside the car and ran a length of threaded rod down throug the frame holes and through the holes in the hitch. I tightned nuts up the threaded rods from below about 3" at a time and thus incremntally lifted the hitch up the rods until the it was up against the frame. That process added about 30 minutes to the install time, but it was safe and no way could I fit under the car and then bring the hitch in and lift it up. Once the hitch was up against the frame it was just a matter of replacing the threaded rods, one at atime, with the included mounting bolts. 231328


Comments

Have put the hitch no work. 100 satisfied

ttp3317 - 11/02/2016

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Completely satisfied with this hitch. Looks great, not very noticeable, and is of quality construction. Details of my experience: 1) ordering/shipping - placed order at 11pm, had an email an hour later saying product shipped. Well, that seemed highly unlikely, but by next morning I had the tracking number. Package arrived in 5 business days. Box was a bit roughed up and hitch had some scuff marks, but it was going under my car so didn't make much matter. 2) installation - the video was a huge help. I mounted this hitch by myself and did it without using a lift or jacking the car up. Space was tight, and I had to use some creativity to support the hitch up on wooden blocks in order to get the bolts in place, so all that made the install take longer than it should have (about 2 hours total). You'll find that even though the muffler was lowered, it still gets in the way for drilling holes. I was skeptical about how easy the little guide wires would work for feeding the bolts into the car frame. I found it does work just like you see in the video -- I was completely impressed. One key step, which is mentioned in the instructions, is to thread the heat shield bolts part way in before torqueing down the nuts on the hitch frame. I found that the front heat shield bolt on the driver side did not line up perfectly no matter how much manual positioning of the hitch -- so I had to use a small board to pry the frame open a bit, leveraging off the spare tire well, in order to get that bolt started. Had I not done that before torqueing the nuts, never would have got the bolt in. Also had a frustrating moment when my 5/8" hitch pin would not go into the receiver hole -- thought the hole was undersized. Turned out a small metal "ear" was sticking out from where the hole was punched through. A few strokes of a file took care of that. My wife is completely happy with this hitch -- she uses it for a bike carrier and can now take her bike wherever she want to go. and, if the wife is happy, I'm happy. 20309



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This hitch was installed on my 2011 Subaru Outback 2.5i. I received the hitch with a few paint chips where it poked through the box. No big deal. Since I'm OCD, I had a can of hi-temp flat black paint and started touching up spots and before I knew it, the entire hitch was painted flat black, which actually looks great. As far as the install goes, I definitely recommend increasing the hole size of the 4-holes in the trunk. They are covered with black circular tape. I took a 1-1/4" hole saw and took about 10 minutes to increase all 4 hole sizes. This is a far better alternative than removing the bumper. (Why anyone would want to do that is beyond me, or increase the hole size in their frame for that matter). I took some gray Rust-Oleum paint and painted around all of the increased holes and used black duct tape to cover all of the holes after that. Overkill on this part, but what's done is done. I used a Rino ramp to help me keep the hitch off the ground so I could install it myself. This method worked great. I ordered the wiring harness and installed it as well. All in all, the videos and reviews on this hitch were invaluable. I can't recommend etrailer enough, and I plan to order more accessories for my hitch as soon as I decide on the gear I want to haul. 83846


Comments

Its still working out great. I tow a small fiberglass cargo trailer behind my 2011 Subaru Outback and couldnt be happier. Looking forward to taking our first family vacation with both children later this year. The hitch will help accomplish that goal. Thanks etrailer!

Aaron T - 12/07/2014

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I found that the packaging for the hitch itself, as well as the instructions and video, were well done. I was careful and spent far more than an hour (or two hours) installing it, however, on a Subaru Outback 2011. Two hopefullly helpful installation tips to add to what others have already posted: 1. If you have a Subaru Outback 2011, take off the rear most rubber exhaust hanger entirely before mounting the hitch. You'll have to anyway - it won't fit through the hole that's provided. Much easier before (rather than after) you already have the hitch up into position. Then put it on when you're finally ready to put the exhaust back on -- but not before. Much easier to slide the exhaust hanger onto both at once than just to reattach it early and fit those annoying rubber pieces. 2. Instead of cutting off a portion of the heat shield, use the same drill bit to put one hole in the heat shield that will fit nicely over the newly installed bolt and nut holding the hitch up on the driver's rear side. Much cleaner looking (not that anyone will look under there, but whatever). Like many others, I also went in via the cargo compartment instead of drilling up through the bottom, figuring there would be less corrosion that way. Even a 7/8" hole with an extra 1/4" hole next to it will easily fish the plates and bolts in. I did use a "grabber" and help from a friend to get the fishing done to put the bolts in place. Removing the fishing attached to the bolts prior to putting the hitch in place was a bit painful - you really don't want to knock one of the loose bolts back up into the frame of the car. I propped the hitch up inch by inch by myself until it was ready to go. This is a nice looking hitch that will more than do the job. I've installed this same brand of hitch before on a Rav4 and a Nissan Xterra - both of these together were easier than on a Subaru Outback, but the final product looks good. For a Subaru Outback, I think this is about the best hitch you can consider. 266516


Comments

Just used it last evening - still working great. Thanks for such a good product!

Kevin K - 01/17/2018

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First, I'd like to reiterate how great the customer service was from etrailer.com - honestly one of the best online shopping experiences I've had. On to the install...mine wasn't quite as trivial as some others, but it was nobody's fault but my own. I installed the hitch without jacking up the car which, while possible, made for very tight working quarters. I also forgot to re-install the heat shield, so had to remove the hitch completely. Typical me. All in all the install took me a couple hours. Thanks to the suggestions from others, I also went through the trunk to gain access rather than drilling a hole in the frame, which I really didn't want to do. It wasn't hard to go through the trunk, I used a step bit (also thanks to someone's suggestion) and enlarged one of the existing holes in the body. It did add some time though. It was trivial to thread the front hardware through, a little more challenging to fish it through to the back ones. I also removed the muffler, definitely made things a lot easier, especially since I didn't jack the car up. I did use my jack to lift the hitch into place, but it was still extremely nice to have a second set of hands to keep everything balanced and aligned. I'm extremely pleased with the result - the hitch is tucked away nicely under the bumper and looks great. Thanks etrailer.com! 112558



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I'll echo most of the reviews for etrailer.com and say that the install guides were thorough and the ordering process was easy. Kudos to etrailer.com for providing such great information including the videos and reviews from previous installers (they helped immensely). I fed the bolts in from the trunk (as suggested by others) and found it quite easy. Do the rearmost cables first - I had to use another cable guide to meet the first and guide it through to both holes. I fed the first cable through the bottom until I could see it through the hole in the trunk, then I could hook it with the curly end of the second cable and bring it up through the trunk hole. The forward holes are easy. BTW, I drove my rear wheels on some 4x wood to give me some extra clearance while working under the car - I highly recommend this for comfort's sake. I'll also echo that if you can remove your muffler, you should. I couldn't remove mine, and while it didn't make things impossible, it just made everything on that side harder, especially dealing with the heat shield bolts. Which leads me to... I had only one issue with the product itself, which was mentioned in passing in other reviews - I had to flex the hitch to match up the heat shield hole. It was off by quite a bit and required me to flex it with tools. I couldn't bend it enough by hand even with all the other bolts left loose. Having my muffler in the way didn't help with this task either. I'll echo others to say that you should leave the hitch bolts only hand tight until you get the heat shield back in place for this reason. I also found that the hitch was thick enough that I had to get a slightly longer heat shield screw. Because of this trip to the local hardware store and the heat shield screw alignment issue, the install took me 3 hours instead of the 2 that others have been reporting. Now that it's in, I'm happy. It looks like it should and does what I need it to do. 146200



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I can't tell you how simple this process really was. After watching the short installation video provided by etrailer, and reading a couple of recommendations to drill from inside the hatch, it took me no longer than 45 minutes to fully install. I'll review the process to help others avoid having to dig too much deeper: First step was to drop the muffler. After disconnecting the 3 hangers, which with a little lubricant and the correct force popped off in a heart beat, I was able to easily remove the heat shield. Watch and follow the video for this part. Couldn't be more straight-forward. Next, I opened the hatch and removed all the internal components. Pull the mats, floor boards, etc and then pop the 2 pressure clips from each side panel, next to the spare tires. That exposed a series of pre-drilled holes, 2 of which on each side were covered with vinyl stickers. They were already drilled to about 3/4 inch, so I simple had to enlarge them to 1 1/8. Really simple. Drill open both holes, and you'll see the holes for the anchor bolts just below. Attach the wire guides, drop the bolts, etc through the holes and set up your hitch. I set my hitch on 2 jack stands to stabilize it while I propped it up to the bolts. A little adjustment to get everything lined up and it worked well. One piece of advice is to start the nuts and get them "mostly tight." Check the alignment of the heat shield before fully tightening them. I was off just a hair and could only get 3 of the 4 heat shield bolts in, so I had to loosen, adjust a hair, and start again. Once everything is lined up, bolt the hitch down tight, cut out the heat shield per the directions, and mount everything back. Start the muffler hanging on the most rear hanger and the others will pop back on with no issue. Don't shy away from this project. It's much simpler than it even seems at first. Good luck! 441259



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Just installed this hitch on my 2017 Outback Limited 3.6. Just like the other 4 previous hitches I've purchased from eTrailer and installed myself in my driveway - it was exactly as advertised and fit perfectly. Thank you eTrailer for the install video and thank you to other reviewers for the install tips! Unless you have a lift (I don't), definitely drill the access hole from above inside the rear hatch. You only need to drill one hole, midway between the holes from the factory to fish the wires & fasteners through. I cleaned up the shavings with a shop vac and a magnet, then sprayed rust inhibiting primer on the bare edges of the drilled hole. The only bug in the install was getting the head shield holes to line up exactly right & it was an easy fix. Suggest lining the heat shield holes up as closely as possible BEFORE tightening all the hitch mounting bolts. Then put the heat shield mount screws in partway. Leave one side or the other of the hitch mount flanges loose, then you may have to press one of the forward mounting points toward the center to get all the heat shield screws started. Once all these screws are started, then go back and tighten the hitch mounting nuts to hold this alignment. Then remove the screws and remount the heat shields. Trim them exactly as in the install video - no need to trim any more than that. The 3.6 with dual exhaust obviously has two heat shields, but they are mirror images so trim them in the same spot to clear the rear hitch mounting bolt. Spray the rubber muffler isolators liberally with WD40 to ease removal and reinstall. The finished install is very clean and my new 1up double rack looks great and is rock steady. Not worried at all about any slight loss of departure angle with the 2" receiver as this car will NEVER go anywhere without the bike rack on it! 288090



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As others have posted, just can't say enough positive about my experience with etrailer. Received everything in one box in about a week after ordering online. While awaiting the shipment, I worked from the storage area inside the car and pre-drilled the access holes and located the wiring harness plug. The online video was spot-on for what to expect in mounting the hitch. I was able to do the install with the car on its wheels, no jacking or stands. For those without a floor jack, slip a piece of 2"x2" into the receiver and let it hang out the front about 6". You can then balance the hitch on your Subaru car jack, carefully slide it under the car, and slowly lift the hitch into place. Yes, a smooth, flat, level surface (garage floor) is needed for this. My only error in the install was forgetting about the tip of not tightening the hitch bolts completely until the heat shield was re-installed. As another commenter stated, the wiring harness' black box slips under the left rear corner trunk panel just fine. I zip tied the wiring harness to some holes at the top left lip of the spare tire well, ran the wire toward that wide, rubber body plug under the spare tire, cut a slit in the body plug and pushed the wiring harness through. I then used the silver metal duct tape (not gray duct/duck tape) to adhere the wire to the left rear wall of the spare well below where I had zip tied the harness and covered the harness with the metal tape until it exited through the rubber body plug (metal taped over the rubber body plug, too, to ensure water tightness). I didn't time my install, but if I'd done everything in sequence it probably would've taken the 2 to 2.5 hrs as previously posted. Thanks to all for your advice/tips and good luck to the new customers on your home install. 412513



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Today's task was to install this hitch on my 2018 Subaru Outback 2.5i. I have to say that I am disappointed in the construction of the hitch that I received. It arrived in a damaged box, but so what, a corrugated carton cannot compete with a heavy metal hitch inside of it. Setting the hitch on the concrete garage floor after taking it out of the box, I immediately noticed that the hitch bracket arms were not parallel - approximately 1/2" out of plane, with the passenger side rear being the problem, sitting lower than the frame than the other 3 mounting points. ( I highly doubt that UPS could have mis-handled this hitch to cause such a twist in such a solid piece of welded metal. ) Also, the holes in the hitch bracket arms for the heat shield mounting bolts were off location from the frame welded nuts. I was able to remedy this by very loosely attaching all 4 conical washers/nuts. Then I pried the hitch into place with a crowbar to install the rear-ward heat shield mounting bolt, and instead of cutting the forward side of the heat shield, I drilled a hole in the heat shield to allow it to be secured via the forward hitch mounting bolt hardware since the forward hitch arm heat shield bolt hole was way off location. The passenger side rear-ward conical washer/nut was very difficult to install due to the off-plane mentioned above, but I was able to coax it into position by sequentially tightening and prying the hitch and the other 3 sets of mounting hardware into place. What could have been, and should have been, an easy 3 out of 10, 45 minute installation turned out to be a 10+ out of 10, 2 hour installation. In the end, it fit and it looks good. Tomorrow's task will be installing the T-One wiring harness - stay tuned for my honest review.... 456745



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Okay I am giving the hitch a 4 star rating only because my partner and I had a heck of a time getting the four bolts fastened on the hitch. We figured out after looking at the hitch that it was not correctly welded. We had to force the hitch from the passenger side of the hitch to the drivers side. In doing so we had little length on the bolts to get the washer and nut onto the bolt. The passenger side was okay but not the drivers side. Let's just say the quality control on my hitch was overlooked. Anyway after much struggle and repetition and trying different things we got all the washers and nuts onto the bolts. Bottom line the hitch did not align properly to make a easy fit. Outside of this problem everything went well. I loved how easy it was to use the fish hook on the bolt and get the bolts positioned in the hole. It was a snap. One other modification we did because we only had the car rear end on ramps gave us little or no room to let the mufflers (2) down so we could remove the heat shields and later on attach the hitch. We ended up taking the mufflers completely off. We then had plenty of room to work on the heat shields and drilling the extra holes on both sides. One other things be sure and use a titanium high speed steel step bit for drilling. You can purchase one at a local hardware store if it is on sale. They work great. One more thing when you go to reinstall the mufflers you are going to be tasked with very little room to get the hangars on the mufflers. Need someone strong with little hands. It is a very tight fit getting a screwdriver to the hinges. Good luck Now that the hitch is installed I like the way it looks. Looking forward to using it. On a last note the install time was 3 hours. 384570



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The box was beat up and both "wings" of the hitch were hanging out of the box. Otherwise it arrived quicker than I expected. I owe a eTrailer and everyone else who has posted information about their experience a lunch, beer, something... I installed the hitch by myself, without a lift, and it took about 2.5hrs. Someone must have previously had an aftermarket hitch on the Subaru and took it off before trading it in. There were already holes drilled so I followed the eTrailer video. I didn't remove the muffler completely, instead I just unhooked the three hangers and used ratchet straps to support the load. Fishing the bolts through was a snap with the hardware from eTrailer. Hoisting the hitch into position was tricky doing it alone but I followed a recommendation from another reviewer and ran two straps through the hitch and connected them to the frame and the latch for the hatch. On each side I placed jack stands to help balance the load. Then I used a jack in the center of it to slowly lift it into place being careful to continusously adjust the straps and jack stand as necessary. Once it was mostly in place I was able to lift it slightly, put the washers in place, and thread on the four nuts. Once they were hand tightened I moved from side to side tightening each one. Finished tightening all of them down, released the straps holding the hitch, put the three exhaust hangers back in place and released those straps. I'm sure I would have figured out how to get it into position, but having the collective knowledge of eTrailer and the folks who have posted was great. I started already knowing what I was planning to do to get the hitch installed and everything went on smoothly! I'm greatful to everyone and ready to use my new hitch. 328913



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I couldn't be happier with the hitch and the ease of installation. I read over the reviews and honestly, almost every review helped, and of course the video was very well done. For those who are little tweaked, I chose to mount the hitch without drilling a hole. All you need to do is remove styrofoam compartments in the truck section, locate the 4 black adhesive caps and remove. The forward holes, one left, one right, now need to be reemed out to a little over an inch. Using an round one inch rock grinding bit I enlarged each hole, took about 30 seconds for both holes. Next, using about 18 inches of somewhat medium gauge wire I went from the bottom mounting hole, underneath the car, to the access hole I earlier made larger. From there I taped the medium gauge wire to the fish wire with tape and proceeded to pull down the mounting spacer and carriage bolt. Without drilling a hole the hitch was mounted. The customer support was excellent, I don't do reviews, but felt compelled to do so after being treated with great service and a quality product. Patrick is a very good employee! 73900


Comments

Funny that you sent the email because I just installed a hitch on a buddys Ford. Just keep doing the videos, just so simple and kinda fun.

Colin - 10/07/2014

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Great quality and install went as smooth on my 2013 Outback. It took me about 90 minutes to do the install. I have dual Exhaust/mufflers and I took them both off, and I think that helped (and two heat shields needed to be cut). As an FYI the mufflers may have a gasket that could be broken in the removal process so it may be good to double check to make sure; or at least see your local parts dealer to see if they have them in stock. I used my impact drill/driver to remove the bolts on the heat shield and it went really fast. The only minor issue (my fault) is that I torqued the mounting bolts before I installed the heat shields. I had to loosen the mounting bolts up again and move the hitch slightly to get the holes to line up (which is in the directions anyhow). I was able to do the install with the car on the ground but it was a little tricky getting the hitch in place. I was able to get some help (and lip) from my teenage son and it wasn't a major chore lifting it in position and getting the nuts started, doing it myself with it on the ground would likely have been a challenge. I used undercoat spray, $5 at the local auto parts store to cover the access holes. Some said they used plugs in other reviews, but the holes are covered by the hitch and I think plugs could keep the hitch from lying flat on the frame. I am VERY happy with the looks and the functionality. As a side note, since the hitch is back from the bumper, make sure accessories (like a carrier/rack) have enough clearance from the bumper to the hitch, or order an extension etc. I am sure the folks here at etrailer wont steer you wrong if you tell them what the setback is when you order accessories. 151773



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On June 19, 2015, I ordered a Hidden Hitch Trailer Hitch, wiring harness, receiver, a 2" hitch ball, and a receiver lock for our 2014 Subaru Outback Wagon. I received the shipment three business days later. The printed instructions were to the point, and the video was helpful as a summary of the installation process. It was quite worthwhile to read reviews with suggestions from previous customers. I followed several of these suggestions: 1. I backed the car rear tires up onto two pieces lumber, 18" long 2 x 12's in my case, so I had a little bit more head room under the car. 2. I enlarged the four access holes in the floor of the wheel well from the top, using a 1 1/8" hole cutter. 3. Instead of lowering the muffler and tailpipe combination, I unbolted the muffler from the tailpipe, then used WD-40 on the rubber muffler hangers to make them slip off easily. I found that the muffler alone wasn't too heavy, and was relatively easy to handle. 4. I placed some 4 x 4's, 2 x 4's, and a small rectangular wooden stool under the hitch to hold it in place when I attached the four hitch mounting bolts. 5. I did not finally tighten the four hitch mounting bolts until I had the heat shield bolt access holes in the hitch centered over the heat shield mounting holes, and the heat shield mounting bolts in place and tightened. I used the handle of my socket wrench as a lever to move the hitch sideways. It would be nice if the Hidden Hitch heat shield bolt access holes were about 1/4" larger, so that everything would line up perfectly. We just made a 780 mile trip, pulling a filled 5' x 8' U-Haul trailer. The hitch, wiring, receiver, ball, and receiver lock all worked perfectly. Thanks very much! 211964



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etrailer is amazing. I ordered on a Saturday night late in West coast timezone and within a hour my order was processed and a shipping label was created. Daniel upgraded my order to 3-5 business days shipping at no additional cost and it arrived promptly. No damage to the box or the hitch. Followed all the great reviews here and took the trunk approach. Removed the muffler completely is the way to go. Widened the holes in the trunk and once the screws are snaked in, rest of the installation was easy. I used two jacks to lift the hitch in place and it made it was so much easier. With the help of my 13 year old son, we were able to finish the installation in under 2 hours. Now it's time to shop for a good bike rack to hold our 4 bikes :-) 115425


Comments

Yes, I am still enjoying the hitch. No issues whatsoever.

Suman C - 02/01/2015

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I just completed installation of the 75673 hitch onto my 2017 Subaru Outback 3.6R Ltd. As already stated in other reviews, I found the hitch to be well made and a perfect fit for the vehicle. I also strongly recommend, as others have done, that you access the frame from above. The drilling there is easier and gives you direct access above the frame holes where the bolts go. I used a step drill purchased for about $8 just for this and it was worth it. One other benefit I found by doing it this way was that it allowed the bolts to be held in place as the nuts were being put on below. It is very easy to push the bolts back up into the frame if you push too hard with the nuts. At that point the fish wire is off and you'll have a tough time getting the bolts out again. I had someone put pressure from above on the top of the bolts which kept them from coming back up as I installed the nuts from below. I also used a floor jack to lift the hitch into place. I used a C clamp to attach a 30" length of 2X2 wood stake, available at any Home Depot or Lowes, to the jack lift arm. The 2X2 stake fit perfectly into the hitch receiver and gave the additional benefit of allowing some back and forth adjustment as I lined the holes up. The only down side is that this hitch is more visible than I would prefer, but apparently it is either this one or the Curt hitch for the Subaru. The Curt hitch looked to be even more obvious after it is in place so I went with the Draw-Tite. It seems very secure and I think it will work just fine. As usual, e-trailer provided great service and was available to answer any questions. 296444


Comments

The installed hitch has been great. I towed a [rental] trailer from PA to FL and the hitch was good. I have had other Outback people ask me about it and where I got it. I highly recommended the product and etrailer.

Bob D - 09/19/2017

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Thoroughly pleased with product and installation. My experience: - ordered one day, shipped the next.. and arrived two days later. Box was damaged as many have seen, but nothing touched inside. Decided to remove muffler entirely, didn't touch exhaust pipe upstream, seemed much easier. Also as many, cut from the top inside trunk, rather than have extra holes exposed below. I was able to lift the hitch by myself - just propped it up on blocks and boards until bolts lined up .. The fishing wire threaders are greatest invention ever! Especially since once I had the hitch loosely bolted in place - I realized I hadn't paid close attention that the metal brackets are different for front hole (3in) and back (2in) .. was actually able to put the threaders back on the two mistaken bolts, shove them back up, swap and reinstall! .. impossible without them - but pay attention to this difference so you don't make same mistake! Mine is on '17 Subaru Outback, and for a car with great ground clearance, especially appreciate how little room this hitch takes up. By the way - said high ground clearance also makes it a breeze to work under the car - no ramps and no jacks! All in all - even with undoing and redoing - maybe a 2hr job (taking my time). That includes installing the wiring harness - which was more painful and frustrating than any of the hitch install (finding that elusive harness and connector in the Subaru interior panels is no picnic). Grateful for the great etrailer videos and instructions, and equally grateful for them posting these reviews with all the additional tips and suggestions from the public. 352490



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Ordered this hitch late on Thursday evening expecting to receive it late the next week. Order was processed immediately and hitch was here on Monday. Used the inside inspection port method as it was not only easier, but retained more structural integrity. As I only had 2000 miles on the car, I removed the muffler ( removed two hangers and unbolted from the tailpipe. This made the muffler side install very easy. I also chose to use a hole saw to cut a 1.5" hole in the heat shield for the bolt rather than cut the corner off. ( After removing the plugs from the frame, I reinstalled the heat shield and marked through the holes where the bolt would be). I did the install on the ground by myself. I used a motorcycle lift to lift and support the hitch while connecting the bolts. A few tricks made it easy. Insert the metal pieces in the frame with the long side front to back. It seats better in the frame and allows the bolt to stick through the frame more. After installing the bolts using the fish wire, I used masking tape to tape the spacer washer to the frame over the bolt. This made its install easier. I used a heavy chisel in the drilled holes ( inspection ports) to hold the bolt down while working on them. This prevented pushing them back up into the frame once the fish wire was removed. If you have a two people, one can do this with their finger. Total time to install was about 1.5 hours. Prior to the install, I used a grinder to round the corners and edges of the four steel bolt plates so they would not scratch the inside of the frame. I also coated with undercoating to prevent rust. 45379



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Just installed this hitch this weekend on my 2012 Outback. Certainly the most-intrusive thing I've ever done to an automobile and apart from a bloody knuckle and sliced thumb, all went pretty smoothly. I opted to go through the observation holes as recommended by other reviewers. Seemed making two existing holes larger would be better than creating two new ones. I opened up the two holes nearest the front of the hatch area which made threading the guide wire to the back holes a bit tricky. I solved it by running a fish wire of my own up through the rear hole then attaching the provided wires to that and pulling the whole shebang back through. I installed this so I could use a hitch-mounted bike rack. I purchased the Softride Dura Parallelogram and had read on this site that it was necessary to also purchase the extender bar for that rack, so I did. Turns out this was an unnecessary purchase as it fit fine with the standard bar. So if you're planning on going that route, hold off on the extender bar until you find out if it's really needed. Oh yeah, have help. Although I'm certain I could have done this alone with some cleverness, having a couple extra hands made it far easier. 51683



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Installation was on my new 2014 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5. Received Hitch and wiring lighting quick. Installation took about 2 hours (mainly because I would stop and check out the NCAA tournament). Used technique posted by others who posted on this site. I did the installation solo. Used a step bit and enlarged holes already provided by Subaru. Removed muffler completely. Drilled hole using my step bit, in heat shield rather than cut out (gives it a more finished appearance). One thing I did that helped considerably since it was a solo install. I have a floor jack and I clamped the hitch in the mouth of the receiver with vice grips to the lift platform of the floor jack. I just rolled the hitch under the bolts, threaded the wire attached to the bolts through the hardware, jacked the hitch up slowly until bolts came through the hitch holes and secured and torqued the nuts. Highly recommend this hitch. Will use e-trailer again. 121595


Comments

Hitch works great for my use.

marsh251 - 03/21/2015

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Perfect fit, great product. With a little forum research I put this hitch on without a hitch! Anyone doing this to a Subaru Outback should do the research and DO NOT drill holes in the frame. The OEM bumper removal way was not hard. Tossed in a LED light from here which looks great when you're not towing something. Can't wait to tow something with my Do It Myself hitch, saved many hundreds and made me proud (the OEM hitch sticks out so this one is better than factory). The Subaru forum was indispensable help for this project. A lot of reviewers wrote of damaged packages and scratching, mine was perfect. Box to bumper in three hours, average mech. skills. 124569


Comments

Great! Tow a 14 boat around weekly, no install issues. I advise everyone to get a brake light LED for the empty hitch. Safety enhancement when youre not towing, protects the light plug too. I see other hitches on this car sticking out too far and pity the fool with scars on his shin

Scott L - 04/10/2015

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I installed this product on a brand new, less than 50 miles, 2014 Subaru Outback 2.5 Limited. Product was delivered promptly with all the parts. The box worked as a great platform to slid in and out from beneath the car, instead of rolling around on the concrete drive. Installation, due to others comments, tips, and the video made this a great experience, saving me at least half when compared to the dealer cost of a hitch. I did drive the rear up onto a set of solid paver blocks when I started, to give me just a few extra inches to get under the car comfortably once the hitch was placed up under the car and finish the install. I used a jack to lift the entire hitch into place, which made the wife very happy. I also drilled down with a step-bit from the trunk, using one of the existing inspection holes (the front-most hole). Doing this required the use of a wire snake to get the wire leads for the retainer and bolts threaded from the rear-most hole to the access hole. If you drilled an entirely new hole in the middle of the two existing access holes, you may not need the snake to get the wires into place. The unit aligned with the factory holes perfectly, making the final steps of bolting down the assembly a real breeze. I sprayed the trunk access hole with undercoating just to be safe, then covered it with metallic HVAC duct tape. I would recommend this hitch to anyone contemplating adding a hitch to a Subaru Outback. 98192



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Hesitant about installing this hitch by myself was on my mind so often between ordering it and receiving it, that I watched the EXCELLENT installation video 10 ten times to be sure I would do it correctly. I must say that anyone could do this without really any experience as long as they followed the video! WELL DONE, etrailer! I also must say that alternative ideas by other customers led me to alter some of the methods for installation. Thanks and KUDOS to those who suggested drilling from the inside top of the cargo area---much easier and safer all around! The individuals who used the idea of raising the hitch into place via a car jack also need to be commended---being the only one around on the day of installing it I thought would be a challenge, but those ingenious people with their carjack idea and picture submissions made this job a breeze! Thank you! All-in-all, not only was the price right for the hitch but the website, service, pictures, videos, AND customer submissions with their GREAT IDEAS made this event a pleasant and self-satisfying experience. Thank you, George, for emailing me with updates, etc. And, thank you, etrailer, for the positive experience! 389707



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etrailer processed and shipped my order promptly. The package arrived the next day in perfect condition. The installation instructions were very easy to follow. I installed the hitch via enlarging the drain-holes in the rear cargo compartment area (inside the vehicle) rather than drilling the frame rails (underneath the vehicle). Additionally, I did not cut a large rectangle out of the heat shield, rather I drilled a 3/4" hole through it to allow for the hitch bolt/nut to pass through. Total installation time was 1.25 hours and I was going slow and cleaning up as I went along. I would recommend this product and vendor in anyone. 87209


Comments

I like the idea of drilling the heat shield and shall follow suit. Thanks

-- comment by: Frank - 06/22/2014

5020
Comments

Both products are holding up very well. I am still 100 satisfied with their performance. Thank you for the great products and stellar customer service. Have a great 4th of July weekend.

Happy C - 07/09/2014

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I ordered on Monday and received the drawtite hitch on Friday. I installed this hitch on a 2018 Outback Touring. It went very well. After reading the reviews I decided to install the hitch in the following order: 1. Removed muffler I did not lower the exhaust. Muffler removal was easy. 2. Removed carpet and Styrofoam pieces in the trunk. 3. Removed rubber plugs in the frame (underneath) 4. Drilled out 2 holes (forward one on each side in the trunk) I used a step drill. 5. Pulled in fish wire. 6. Pulled in bolts and plates with fish wire. (added length with baling wire). 7. Raised hitched and torqued to 50 ft/lbs per the instructions. 8. Painted hole I drilled with rustoleum paint. 9. Covered all holes in trunk with aluminum duct tape. 10 installed wiring harness (forward in trunk drivers side just behind rear seat. 11. Installed all Styrofoam and carpet in trunk. 12. installed muffler. (My gasket was good so no need to replace). 13. Done. This took me about 2 hours or so but most of that time was spent bonding with my 10 year old grandson. I think that if I was to install another one it would take me less than one hour. This was an easy project and the results were great. I especially liked the fact that the receiver and hitch is well hidden under the car. (no chance of hitting your foot or leg on it while loading the car. Thanks etrailer! 456765



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My new DrawTite hitch for a 2014 Outback surprisingly arrived without any boxing or wrapping. Just a shipping label wrapped around the receiver, which had the bag of parts tucked into it. I called eTrailer out on this, and they said it was packed up correctly when they sent it. UPS was the culprit. It was fine and unharmed nonetheless. Installation was fairly easy, and having the video was really helpful. I drilled 4 holes down from inside the back of the car behind the wheel wells with a 1-1/8" hole saw, instead of up through the frame, and it made it really easy to see the pre-drilled frame holes right below them to pass through the fish wires with the bolts. And now there are no extra holes underneath the car for rust and corrosion to attack. I covered the new holes I made with a couple of layers of metal HVAC tape, then put all the Styrofoam pieces back in place. Also, I reattached the whole heat shield after cutting the corner piece off, and then torqued the main bolts down. Having access to a lift at my local garage also made this a piece of cake. Lastly, I will mainly be using the hitch for a 4-bike Thule rack, which won't see much action throughout the winter. I put a fitted piece of the HVAC metal tape over the back of the receiver opening. If you put a cover on one end to keep out dirt and moisture, why not cover the other end as well??? 105601



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Online ordering was a cinch and shipping was lightning fast. I had my usual mechanic install it for me for $135 which was well worth the expense. It looks great and is barely noticeable. I am only going to use it for my bike rack and possibly a cargo carrier. Will definitely get the cargo carrier from etrailer. I am a highly satisfied customer. 131008


Comments

I couldnt be happier with this purchase. The hitch is heavy duty and still looks great.

Steve C - 05/18/2015

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Read all of the reviews and purchased this for my 2013 Subaru Outback. I DIY a bit, but not much in the way of car stuff. The reviews were super helpful. Went through the trunk. Used a hole saw, but it chunked out a bit of metal because it was difficult to stabilize. Maybe I'm just weak. Threaded the bolts with my 8 year old daughter. She thought it was fun. I used a Kelly clamp (tweezer) to grab the wires. Had to put it on last minute, so none of my buddies were around to give me a hand with the bolts. I had my daughter slide scrap wood under the hitch to get it within range of the bolts. Time consuming but easy. The safety strap holding the muffler was a great benefit. Had to make one trip to the hardware store because the heavy duty torque wrench I purchased had too big of a socket (1/2) and my socket set is 3/8. Whole thing took a few hours and change. Put on a bike rack right after and headed out with 4 bikes and no scratches on the car ( unlike my last bike rack that attached to the hatch). Would def recommend this. Used only once so far but feels real solid and looks good. 412800



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Installation went smooth. Just a described in the video. I used a Ratching Tie down attached to the hatchback latch loop on one end and then passed it through the center hole of the receiver and attached the other end to a hole in the frame along the midline. This made the installation easy as a one person install. The Tie down held the weight of the receiver while I aligned the bolts. The pictures attached are a recreation of what I did. Thanks. 174948


Comments

Awesome idea! Im going to do this also!!

-- comment by: Matt A - 10/02/2015

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I installed this hitch on my 2013 Outback 3.6R. Even though I am somewhat mechanically inclined this installation took me a couple of hours due to a bit of OCD and not having any help lifting the hitch into place. The etrailer.com video was helpful but I made some changes. As some others have done, I enlarged the holes in the trunk versus drilling the frame underneath. The trunk metal is much thinner than the frame underneath and not really a structural part of the frame so it didn't bother me as much to drill it. I also drilled the heat shield holes versus cutting them as they are visible once everything is put back together (pic). To do this I just put the heat shields back with two bolts after removing the plugs in the frame, then I used a marker inserted through the factory holes in the trunk to mark the location for drilling with my hole saw. After the install was done I used metal hvac tape to cover the trunk holes for a clean look. For those interested, my local Home Depot sells 11/8" metal plugs in the hardware aisle that will snap right into your holes. The finished install is quite clean looking and the hitch is hardly noticeable. Note... the installation instructions say to torque the 7/16" nuts to 50 lb. ft. but they are actually 11/16". 95574


Comments

Bolts and nuts are measured and identified by the shank diameter and threads. In this case 716 - 14, is the bolt size. This is how they are identified in the parts list and torque ratings. 11/16 is the size of the socket needed to tighten the hardware, but that does not tell us the actual size of the bolt and nut.

-- Patrick B - 08/19/2013

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Ordered this from the really helpful folks at etrailer and it came very promptly and exactly when they said it would. I installed it on a 2014 Subaru Outback wagon using the OEM method which requires removing the rear bumper, which eliminates the need to drill additional holes in the uni-body frame. I hired a local autobody shop to do the bumper removal and replacement of the rear bumper. He and I removed the bumper and had the whole installation done in an hour. The Drawtite sits up snug underneath, is unobtrusive and does the job. 132672


Comments

The hitch has been great. The written and printed instructions helped with the installation. I did get a local autobody guy to help me with the bumper removal and replacement during the installation, but otherwise it was a very straightforward.

Scott C - 05/28/2015

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As others have suggested, I drilled a hole from inside the spare tire area for installing the bolts. Again, as has been noted before, it is difficult to run the fish wires to the bolt holes as the fish wire's natural bend makes them want to go in opposite direction. Doing this job myself, I solved this problem by shoving another piece of semi-flexible wire (about 20" long) up through the bolt holes. With a small loop at the end to this piece, I was able to snag it when I saw it near the hole I had drilled. I then ran the end of the fish wire through the loop of the second "fish wire", bent it back onto itself to form another loop. For added security I taped both loop ends securely so I wouldn't loose the fish wire inside the frame channel, and pulled both wires out the bolt holes. Worked great! One other small note, just before you do the final tightening of the four hitch bolts, screw the two heat shield bolts through the hitch and into the frame. Now tighten and torque the hitch bolts. You can now remove the two heat shield bolts and install the heat shield. The alignment of the predrilled holes in the hitch were not exactly dead on and this step will prevent some frustration and spewing of expletives when trying to install the heat shield. 108312



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The hitch fits the Subaru Outback (2014) perfectly, and it does not stick out beyond the bumper, which is good. I would mention three things. First, it IS possible to perform a 1-man installation, fairly easily, if you have a car jack. As shown in the picture, put a bucket with a cover on the car jack and raise the hitch up. Use 2x4 scraps or anything else you have to push the rails up exactly where you want them, attach the washers and nuts, and you're done. Second, pay close attention to the backing plates for the carriage bolts. The shorter one MUST go in the rear hole and the longer one MUST go in the forward hole. Otherwise the plate in the forward hole (which is too short) will spin and you won't be able to tighten the nut. Then, everything has to come out and you start over. Bad karma. Third, to drill the 1 1/8 inch holes through the frame, go to Harbor freight Tools, or to a good hardware store and buy a step drill as shown in the picture. It will cut through the frame like butter, and cut exactly the right size hole in seconds 123592



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Excellent fit on my 2014 Subaru Outback. I did not drill a hole underneath because the 2014 Outback has 4 observation holes in the trunk directly above the hits mounting holes covered with tape. All I need to do was enlarge them to insert the rectangular washer. Also instead of cutting the heat sheild I just drilled a hole where the bolt needs to pass..Easy installation. Took me less than 45 minutes. 111961


Comments

Are the observation holes located under the styrofoam side floor panels on either side of the trunk? If so they are secured with two plastic retaining clips - do they just pop off if you pull on them?

-- comment by: Mark W - 12/22/2014

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Installed the hitch yesterday. I fit perfectly - all holes lined up well. It sits somewhat behind the bumper, so it's not overly visible from the rear. I installed it by taking off the bumper facia and bumper so that I could access the frame tubes without drilling the 1 1/8 inch holes. It took considerably more time, but we keep our cars forever and I didn't like the thought of drilling such large holes. Getting the mounting hardware in place once the bumper was off was a snap. Getting the bumper into position was an ordeal. It was just me, and I couldn't raise the car. I finally got it up and aligned using an auto jack and two jack stands to support the hitch. It's just very awkward to work with. Everything went back together perfectly and the installation looks nice and clean. I also put in a wiring kit. Left the end in the wheel well rather than stringing it through to the outside. As someone notes in comments to the etrailer Youtube video, the wiring harness doesn't just magically appear like it does in the video. You have to take off the cargo hook and cut the upper blue tape and fish it out. Other than that, there's not much to it. 263604



- 75673

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Hitch came fast and well packed. Excellent welds and finish. Like several other people I chose to drill from the top - used a hole bit (not step) worked great but added the challenge of fishing out the cutouts, not really that hard. 2 hours to install on a 2106 Outback taking my time. A few tips, especially for those of you doing it by yourself: - the foam trays pop up easy with a screwdriver, but the clips will go flying and land in whatever the smallest space available is. - push the rubber frame plugs out from the top, and then make a mark on the heat shield so you know where to drill - take the muffler off, it will make it a lot easier to work, you won't have to mess with the forward most hanger, it's only 2 extra bolts. - take the 2 rear rubbers piece off the hanger but not off the muffler - use the box to slide around on under the car - get one rearmost bolt loosely fitted then slide over to the other rear, you can hold up the hitch pretty easily and prop it up on your side - before you tighten, pay close attention to the heat shield bolt holes on the muffler side - when sliding the muffler back into place, lube is your friend 247764



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Wow, this is a hard review...because everything fit up perfectly and went together exactly like the online video. I was amazed how easy it was. Took my nephew, who had never installed a hitch before, about 30 minutes for the hitch itself and about 20 minutes installing the wiring. Since the Outback had less than 500 miles on it he didn't want to break any interior plastic. I'm in a wheelchair and was getting the hitch to install a chair carrier platform on the back. It took longer to put the carrier together than install the hitch. 6029



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The hitch appears to be of high quality. It is heavy-gauge and the finish looks like it will withstand the weather for a long time. It came well packaged, and with all the hardware securely attached to the hitch itself -- not just loose in the box -- very nice. Installation went almost as smoothly as in the video :-/ After getting past 1. Deciding it was OK to drill two big holes in my new car, and 2. Actually drilling two big holes in my new car, the installation went pretty smoothly. The toughest part after the hole drilling, since I did it in my driveway, without benefit of a lift, was wrestling the hitch into position and getting the first two nuts threaded on. I used a floor jack to help me get the hitch in position. In hind sight, I should have cut a wooden bar of about 2 x 2 inches, and stuck it through the receiver out the front side so the jack could lift the hitch at its center of gravity, then I could have jacked it straight up into position. A nice addition to the kit would be two plastic plugs to use to fill the access holes. I used some spray-on undercoating to protect the drilled edges. 100094


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  • Trailer Hitch Recommendation for 2018 Subaru Outback for Thule T2 Bike Rack
  • The best option for a 2 inch hitch for your 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon is the Draw Tite part # 75673 which is a confirmed fit and doesn't require a stabilizer strap like the Curt hitch does when carrying a bike rack. This will work great with the Thule T2 Pro part # TH9034XT as well without requiring an extension. We had the chance to test fit this rack on a 2017 Outback with this hitch installed and we found it fit well. See install video and picture attached for more info.
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  • Tongue Weight Capacity of 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon with Class III Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch
  • You are correct. You will always be limited by a total setup's weakest component. In the case of installing the Draw-Tite Class III trailer hitch # 75673 on your 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon, you will have to follow the 200 pound tongue weight capacity of the vehicle, even though the hitch itself can support much more. Keep in mind that there is still an advantage to getting a Class III over a Class II trailer hitch for your Outback Wagon as there are far more available hitch-mounted accessories...
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  • Trailer Hitch Recommendation For 2016 Subaru Outback Wagon
  • You are correct that all of the trailer hitches that we currently offer for your 2016 Subaru Outback will require drilling to install the hitch. The Draw-Tite trailer hitches require that an access hole be drilled in order to fishwire the installation hardware, and then the hitch is installed through pre-existing holes in the frame. The Curt trailer hitches require that an existing hole be enlarged to allow for the hardware to be fishwired, and then the hitch is installed in one existing...
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  • Comparing Class III Receiver for 2012 Subaru Outback
  • Draw-Tite #75673 has 7 inch distance between the receiver hitch pin hole and the furthest rearward portion of the rear bumper when installed on a 2011 model Subaru Outback Wagon. Although the hitch will attach to the vehicle using existing holes in the frame, a 1-1/8 inch hole saw will be needed to drill an access hole in the frame member on both the driver and passenger side. This hole is necessary in order to feed installation hardware into the frame as shown in the install instructions...
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  • Recommended Trailer Hitch and Wiring Harness for 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon
  • The Tekonsha T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness # 118467 referenced in your question is indeed confirmed to fit your 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon Limited, as long as it is not the Sport model. The same wiring harness did carry over from the 2017 model Outback Wagon. This custom-fit harness will connect directly to the built-in ports located behind the driver side trim panel on the vehicle. Once installed, this will give you the necessary 4-Way at the rear of the Outback Wagon to connect with and...
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  • Differences Between Curt and Hidden Hitch for a 2016 Subaru Outback Wagon
  • For some vehicles there are hitches available that do not have visible cross tubes. For your 2016 Subaru Outback wagon there are only options like the part # C13206 that have visible crosstubes. While the Curt hitch part # C13206 and the Draw-Tite part # 75673 are pretty similar they have some differenced that would account for the weight difference. The Curt uses a round cross tube whereas the Draw-Tite uses a square tube. The side brackets of the Curt hitch are actually larger and...
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  • Trailer Hitch and Wiring Harness Fits for 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon
  • The Draw-Tite 2-inch Class III hitch # 75673 fits the Subaru Outback Wagon for model years 2010 through 2018 so you can install it on the new car as long as you order a replacement hardware kit # RHK. An installation video is linked for you. Hitch installation hardware cannot be re-used since it is designed to be torqued down only once. You can order a complete new hardware kit using the part number RHK and your hitch part number 75673. This will enable you to safely install the hitch...
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  • Does Installing EcoHitch in 2018 Subaru Outback Affect Back Up Sensors
  • I attached a picture of the Ecohitch part # 306-X7266 installed by us and you can see the back up sensor on the far end of the bumper. It wasn't a problem for us at all. Removing the foam wasn't an issue either. For the money though I would go with the Draw Tite part # 75673.
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  • Best Hitch Recommendations for 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon
  • For your 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon the Class III hitch I would recommend is the EcoHitch part # 306-X7266 as the overall winner. It has the higher Class III towing capacities, doesn't require the stabilizer strap when carrying a bike rack like the Curt, but also because it only has the hitch opening that hangs down below the bumper so it's the least visible. It is the most expensive though so the next best option is the Draw Tite part # 75673 which is still a great hitch but it has a visible...
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  • Recommended Class III Hitch for Carrying Bike Rack on 2015 Subaru Outback Wagon
  • When you're planning on using a hitch for a bike rack, and you're trying to determine if the two will be compatible, the important measurement is the distance between the hitch pin hole and the furthest rearward part of the bumper. The FAQ article I've linked shows how to take this measurement. I checked out the 1UP USA racks, and saw that they're all compatible with the 2 inch receiver provided by a Class III hitch, so that's what I'm recommending you go with. The 2 inch receiver has...
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  • Availability of the EcoHitch for a 2018 Subaru Outback
  • The EcoHitch Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver Class III, # 306-X7266, has been confirmed to fit the 2018 Subaru Outback. We also carry 2 other hitches that are confirmed to fit the 2018 Subaru Outback. The Curt Class III Round Tube Receiver, # C13206, and the Draw-Tite Class III Max-Frame Receiver Hitch, # 75673, will fit this model vehicle.
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  • Can the Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch # 75673 be Used to Carry 4 Bikes with a 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon
  • From what I could find online it looks like you can safely carry 4 bikes on your 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon with the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver # 75673, but you will want to double check your owner's manual to make sure that you can safely do so. Since the Draw-Tite hitch has a Tongue Weight (TW) capacity of 600 lbs your Outback Wagon will most likely be the limiting factor. Since platform bike racks tend to be on the heavy side it would be to your benefit to use a hanging...
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  • Best Trailer Hitch Recommendation for 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon for Bike Rack and Towing
  • The best hitch for your 2017 Subaru Outback wagon will be the Draw Tite hitch part # 75673 which is a Class III hitch with a 2 inch opening. This hitch size gives you the most flexibility with hitch accessories and the best capacities as well. I like it over the Curt hitch because it does not require the stabilizer strap when used with a non-supported load like a bike rack like your Thule Helium 2 # TH9042.
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  • Recommended Trailer Hitch for 2011 Subaru Outback Wagon 3.6R Limited
  • The Draw-Tite part # 75673 would be an excellent choice for a trailer hitch for your 2011 Subaru Outback 3.6L Limited. This hitch has more more attachment points to the vehicle than the comparable Curt hitch (total of 6 versus 4 for the Curt product). The Curt hitch also requires use of a stabilizing strap for all non-trailer loads: bike racks, cargo carriers and so forth. Because I prefer more attachment points to the vehicle, I would lean toward the Hidden Hitch. If you plan on doing...
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  • Best Bike Rack Recommendation for 2017 Subaru Outback Wagon
  • Hitch bike racks are the best solution in nearly all cases. They provide the most stable connection, are easy to load/unload, and don't touch any vehicle painted surfaces. The Draw Tite hitch part # 75673 is a fit and would be the best option. It's a 2 inch hitch that has the best capacities and most accessories made for it. The Thule Hitching Post Pro part # TH934XTR that you referenced would then fit that hitch and work well. Check out the review video I attached to see it demoed...
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  • Which Trailer Hitch Receiver Has Most Ground Clearance On 2014 Subaru Outback Wagon
  • Each hitch is positioned to sit tucked up and close to the bumper as you can see in the product page photos. All of the hitch receivers available for the 2014 Subaru Outback will sit in the same general position with ground clearance varying slightly from each hitch. Other factors include how much tread you have on your tires and how well the tires are inflated. For example, from the ground to the top of the receiver on the Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch, part # 75673, measures 16 inches....
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  • Hitch Recommendation for a 2015 Subaru Outback 3.6R Limited
  • The Draw-Tite part # 75673 would be an excellent choice for a hitch for your 2015 Subaru Outback 3.6L Limited. Hitch installs are pretty easy for any qualified shop. I don't have a specific recommendation for a shop to use. But if there is a garage or mechanic in your area with a good reputation he should be able to install this hitch 100 percent correct without a problem. If you plan on doing some towing you may also be interested in the wiring harness part # C56040. For ball mounts...
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  • Hitch and Bike Rack Recommendation for 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon for Recumbent
  • We have a solution, but due to the design of the factory 1-1/4 inch hitches of the new Subaru vehicles you'd have to replace the factory hitch as none of the recumbent racks we offer will fit it due to the shallow hitch pin depth. So for a hitch you'd want the part # 75673 which is a confirmed fit and is a 2 inch hitch like what our recumbent racks like the part # HR1450R are designed to fit. This rack also comes with locks for the hitch and the bike so it wouldn't need additional locks....
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  • Recommended Trailer Hitch Receiver For 2017 Subaru Outback
  • For your 2017 Subaru Outback, The EcoHitch Hidden Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" # 306-X7266 is a confirmed fit. We are really excited about the EcoHitch and the reason for less information at this point is because it is a fairly new addition for us. It does provide a cleaner look and a slightly higher clearance. I don't know the exact measurement as we haven't done the measurements yet, but it looks like it will be around 16 inches based on the measurement we do...
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  • Can 88 Pound and 75 Pound Kayaks Be Carried Together on the Roof of a 2016 Subaru Outback
  • The problem is that the whole roof rack on your 2016 Subaru Outback is 100 pounds, not just the bars but the side rails too. Adding aftermarket bars will not increase that capacity. But there is a why to reduce the weight that is on the factory roof rack without using a trailer. But it does require a trailer hitch. If you were to install Class III trailer hitch # 75673 you could use the Thule Goalpost # TH997. This will essentially add a third bar and could theoretically reduce the weight...
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  • Compatibility of Thule # TH956 Parkway Bike Rack and Draw-Tite # 75673 on a 2011 Subaru Outback
  • Yes, the Thule Parkway 4 Bike rack, # TH956, will work great with the Draw-Tite Class III Trailer Hitch, # 75673 on your 2011 Subaru Outback. We installed this hitch on a 2011 Outback, see video, and measured the distance from center of hitch pin hole to the farthest back part of the rear bumper and the measurement is 7 inches, see photo link. The distance from center of hitch pin hole to the upright bar on the Thule # Th956 bike rack is 9-1/2 inches so it will work great on your...
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  • Bike Rack Recommendations for 2010 Subaru Outback
  • The two best bike carrying options for your Outback would be a trunk mounted rack or a hitch mounted rack. Both have their advantages and disadvantages. A hitch mounted rack would be initially more expensive, but having the receiver hitch would offer more flexibility. If the need should arise, you could tow a small trailer or use a hitch mounted cargo carrier. For bike carrying purposes, the biggest advantage offered by the hitch mounted rack would be the fact that the rack would not...
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  • Fit & Compatibility of TowReady Lock #63201 w/Draw-Tite Hitch Cover #63080 on 2016 Outback 2" Hitch
  • I have great news for you! I was able to go out to our warehouse and test fit the # 63201 Tow Ready lock and # 63080 Draw-Tite hitch cover onto the Draw-Tite trailer hitch # 75673 for you. Not only did all the parts work great together, I also confirmed that this hitch will fit your 2016 Subaru Outback Wagon. I have linked a picture of the 3 items together for you to see, even has space to spare. I have linked the above mentioned products to this page for your purchasing convenience.
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  • Does Draw Tite Hitch # 75673 Fit on 2018 Subaru Outback Wagon
  • The Draw Tite Hitch part # 75673 is a carry over from the 2017 Subaru Outback to the 2018 model. Draw Tite was able to get their hands on this vehicle very early to test fit and confirm the fit. I attached an installed picture for you to check out as well. Hitch installs are very basic for mechanics compared to some of the more difficult jobs they can get. What we recommend is finding a local mechanic in your area that has a good reputation and go with them.
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  • Comparing Hidden Hitch # 87568 or Draw-Tite Class III # 75673 Hitches for a 2016 Subaru Outback
  • The Hidden Hitch # 87568 (no longer available) and the Draw-Tite Class III # 75673 are both manufactured by the same parent company, Cequent Performance Products. Other than the brand name sticker, both hitches are identical. When we installed either hitch on a 2015 Outback, we found that the hitch pin hole was recessed under the vehicle by 5 inches. This means that either the # Y02465 FullSwing or the # Y02464 SwingDaddy would work fine for you. The primary differences between the...
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Info for this part was:

Video by:
Joe V
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Expert Research:
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Expert Research:
Michael L
Video Edited:
Zack K
Video by:
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Written by:
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Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video by:
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Expert Research:
Adam R
Video by:
Kathleen M
Updated by:
Laura H
Video Edited:
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Expert Research:
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Video by:
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Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
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