Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class II - 1-1/4"
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2008 Chrysler Pacifica
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2008 Chrysler Pacifica
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This hitch is built for light to moderate towing and hauling. With a 3,500-lb maximum gross trailer weight and 300-lb maximum tongue weight, it’s right at home pulling a small utility trailer, camper, or boat. It also works great with bike racks and cargo carriers when you just need more room for gear. The 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" receiver opening gives you solid compatibility with common Class II accessories, so you can tow or carry without worrying about fit.
If you’ve got basic tools and an afternoon, you can get this hitch mounted. The bolt-on installation uses existing weld nuts on the frame—no drilling or welding required. It comes with all the hardware and instructions you need. The fully welded design lines up precisely with the vehicle’s mounting points, taking the guesswork out of the install so you can get back to using your hitch instead of fighting with it.
Built from sturdy, square-tube steel and welded by precision robots, this hitch is made for long-term strength. The gloss black powder coat finish sits over a protective base coat to block rust and handle road grime, salt, and moisture. It looks clean under the bumper while staying tough enough to handle years of towing and hauling.
The receiver works with standard drawbars, pins, and clips (sold separately) so you can set it up exactly how you want. Whether you’re towing a trailer one weekend or carrying bikes the next, this Class II hitch gives you dependable performance every time you use it.
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today on our 2008 Kia Sportage, we'll be installing the Curt Hitch, part number C12126. This is what our hitch will look like once it's installed. Next, we'll go ahead and give you a couple of measurements to assist you with selecting accessories for your new hitch, such as a ball mount, bike rack, or cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pin hole, to the outermost edge of the bumper is six inches. From the top of the receiver tube opening to the ground is 12 and three-quarter inches. Let's go ahead with installation.
First, we'll need to lower the exhaust before we can install the hitch. To lower the exhaust, there are a total of three rubber isolators we'll remove from the metal hangers on the muffler. To start, we'll spray each rubber isolator with some spray lubricant. Then, using a pair of pliers, pry bar, or in this case, we're using an exhaust hanger removal tool, we'll go ahead and remove the rubber isolator from the metal hanger. With the rubber isolators removed, we'll go ahead and allow the exhaust to come down and sit on the rear axle, giving us a few more inches of working room.
We'll shift it over to the driver's side, and start to remove the tow hook here on the passenger's side. There are a total of five fasteners that secure the tow hook into position, four in the bottom of the frame rail, and one in the side. We'll go ahead and remove these fasteners, setting both the tow hook and fasteners aside, as they will not be reinstalled. Next, on the driver's side, we'll need to clean out the weld nut, which will be our forwardmost attachment point on the driver's side. To clean it out, we'll use some spray lubricant and a half-inch nylon tube brush, part number 814092.
Thoroughly clean out the threads, because over time they build up with rust, dust, dirt, and debris. Quick tech tip: in extreme cases, it may be necessary to run a thread tap to clean out the excess of rust or dirt buildup. Once we have it thoroughly cleaned out, I recommend to take one of the new fasteners and go ahead and put it into the weld nut and make sure it'll go nice and easily. With that done, we'll need to remove an additional fastener here in the bottom of the frame rail on the passenger's side. This will be a weld nut in the frame that we will utilize once we install the hitch.
We'll move over to the driver's side. This application does not have a tow hook; however, we'll need to remove the two fasteners in the bottom of the frame. With those removed, we can see all six attachment points for the hitch. Starting from the rear of the vehicle, it'll be the first three weld nuts in the frame. We're ready to go ahead and install the hitch. We'll be using the new ten millimeter bolt, three-eighths conical tooth washer, the teeth of the washer facing the hitch. We'll go ahead and take our hitch, feed it up over the exhaust on the passenger's side, and then bring it up into position on the driver's side. We'll go ahead and install each one of the fasteners finger tight until we have them all in place. With the fasteners holding the hitch, we'll go ahead and tighten it down. Next, we'll torque to specifications, as indicated in the instructions. With our hitch secured and torqued to specifications, we'll go ahead and reinstall the exhaust. With that done, this'll complete the install of our Curt Hitch, part number C12126 on our 2008 Kia Sportage.
Ratings & Reviews
Damien D.
12/10/2017
Its been a year. No rust or issues.
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Walter
4/7/2022
Thanks for the review reminder, helps me check the bolt torque! Anyways still intact and carries my Thule bike carrier.