How Do You Break In The Trailer Brakes When Replacing One Brake Assembly and Hub?

Question

Question:

When only replacing one drum and brake how does one do the break in?

asked by: Bryant

0

Expert Reply:

The break in process will be the same when replacing one brake and drum as if you were replacing both.

Drive the trailer out into an open area, like an empty parking lot. Get up to around 40 MPH and apply the manual override on your brake controller. Make sure the brake controller is set high enough where it will fully engage the trailer brakes (usually the middle setting will be just fine). Do not hit the brake pedal during this time, as you want to slow down your vehicle and trailer with only the trailer brakes. You’ll most likely have to do this about 20 to 30 times to properly seat the brakes.

You will want to still adjust and check the brakes which were already broke in during the process.

expert reply by: Bud M

0

Answer 1

The AL-KO 5,200 lb axle uses the inner bearing #25580 and outer bearing part #15123 and grease seal #RG06-090. For races you would want #25520 and #15245.

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Answer 2

According to Dexter Axle, the attachment bolts for a 5-bolt brake assembly should be torqued to 30-50 foot/lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench handy, if you tighten the bolts until the lock washers flatten out, you'll be pretty darn close…

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Answer 3

I attached a chart that has all of the recommended lug nut torque specs for trailer wheels. Based on your studs being 1/2 inch, your wheels being 15 inches in diameter, and your lug nuts being coned you would want to torque your lug nuts to 90-120 ft…

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Answer 4

On many drum brakes there are wear indicators at the pad material on the shoes. If the pad material is riveted on and you have reached the rivets then it is time to replace them. If you have the brakes adjusted out all the way and the braking is…

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Answer 5

In order to measure a brake assembly for replacement you need to do so from the inside of the drum on the contact surface for the shoes which you can see in the attached photo. The two most common sizes are 10" x 2-1/4" like the Electric…

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Answer 6

If the surface on the inside of the drum where the shoe pads make contact isn't smooth then a brake shop may be able to turn the drums. If that surface or the surface where the magnet makes contact (called the armature surface) is discolored then…

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Answer 7

As long as your existing hub drums are in good condition (no grooves worn in the armature surface that the brake magnet rides on or the surface that the pads grab). For a lot of trailer hub/drums there is a minimum thickness for that to be turned…

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Answer 8

If the drums look like they are in good shape you don't have to turn them when replacing the assemblies. Take a look at the inside of the drum and if you don't see any grooving or obvious signs of wear they don't have to be replaced.…

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Answer 9

Most likely it's a mechanical problem on the specific assembly that's locking up when you hit the brakes. If it was a short in the wiring they all would be locking up. Best option is to pull the hub off and inspect the assembly to see if you…

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Answer 10

You cannot really go by miles when determining when brakes should be replaced. You would know to replace them the same way you would know with a vehicle. If performance is suffering and adjusting the brakes does not help and there are no other issues…

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Answer 11

As long as all 4 tires have brakes installed, all 4 tires are supposed to lock when the pin is pulled. If only one axle has brakes, the 2 of the 4 tires should lock. There are a couple of possible problems your trailer may be experiencing. One…

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Answer 12

Sounds like your brakes aren't working when you use the breakaway kit or when your tow vehicle applies the brakes which leads me to believe the problem isn't the breakaway and it's most likely electrical. I attached a link to a page that…

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How Do You Break In The Trailer Brakes When Replacing One Brake Assembly and Hub?

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