How Does Draw-Tite 2-1/2 Inch Trailer Hitch Install on a 1988 Ford F-250

Question

Question:

I do not have the holes on the bottom side of the fam.

asked by: John

0

Expert Reply:

Drilling is required to install Draw-Tite trailer hitch # DT45502 on a 1988 Ford F-250. You will need to drill eight 1/2 inch holes to secure the hitch to the bottom of the vehicle frame. I have included a link to the installation instructions for you.

expert reply by: Michael H

0

Answer 1

Hey Don. I have a solution for you, but that part is not available anywhere as far as I can tell. The only custom fit part our vendors offer as replacement is the Curt T-Connector Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector #C55316…

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Answer 2

I attached a 7-way diagram that you can use as a wiring guide for installing the 7-Way kit part #PK11-934 that you referenced. You'd want to use the middle picture's wiring colors.

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Answer 3

To order replacement hardware for the Curt hitch part #C11181 all you need is the part #RHK. On the product page you will need to enter the part number for the hitch and select Curt from the drop down menu and we will ship you out the correct install…

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Answer 4

The Replacement Hardware Kit #RHK is going to have the correct mounting hardware for whichever Curt, Da'Lan, Draw-Tite, etrailer, Hidden Hitch or Reese trailer hitch receiver you need it for. This is the reason for the Hitch Item Number box so we…

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Answer 5

The Fastener Kit #01685 that you referenced is a supplement to the installation hardware included with the Draw-Tite Max-E-Loader Trailer Hitch Receiver #41504, or the Reese 37081 or 44143 hitches. This fastener kit is more or less spacers and you…

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Answer 6

I can help explain the difference between the listing for towing weight and weight distribution towing capacity for you. Let's use the Draw-Tite Class V Trailer Hitch #DT45502, which is a confirmed fit for you 1992 Ford, that you were looking at.…

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Answer 7

The trailer hitch (Curt, Draw-Tite, B&W) for a 1996 Ford F-250/F-350 that fits closest to the bottom of the bumper is the B&W Heavy-Duty Trailer Hitch Receiver part #BWHDRH25122 which measures 5" from the top of the flange to the top of…

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Answer 8

I am not entirely sure what process you took so I'll give you some other things to try, or maybe a different way to test the Prodigy P3 #90195. First, sever the blue wire a couple inches from the back of your controller. Then use a circuit tester…

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Answer 9

Shane, sorry to say we don't have a replacement hardware kit by itself for the B&W Turnoverball #BWGNRK1313. The hardware actually does not look like it's offered by B&W themselves, unfortunately. What I did instead is attach a…

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Answer 10

The B&W Tow & Stow Adjustable Ball Mounts will either fit a 2 inch receiver, #BWTS20048B, or a 2-1/2 inch receiver opening, like #BWTS20049B. None will fit both a 2 inch and a 2-1/2 inch receiver hitch opening. Normally. Class IV trailer…

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Answer 11

Your Hydrastar actuator is not cycling on to build pressure to apply the brakes when needed. This could mean that there is an electrical problem or a malfunction with the motor, or even a problem with the brake controller. I have included a picture…

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Answer 12

The difference between the Class II and Class III hitches has to do with their Gross Trailer Weight (GTW), their Tongue Weight (TW), and their Hitch Receiver Size. Class II trailer hitch receivers have a 1-1/4 inch receiver and can be rated up to…

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How Does Draw-Tite 2-1/2 Inch Trailer Hitch Install on a 1988 Ford F-250

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