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This fully welded, corrosion-resistant vehicle trailer hitch receiver is perfect for your light-duty towing needs. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. Drawbar sold separately.
Features:
Specs:
Draw-Tite's Tested Tough program provides testing standards far superior to those outlined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), the go-to source for engineering professionals.
Each Draw-Tite trailer hitch receiver undergoes extensive fatigue testing and static testing with the ball mount that is either supplied or recommended for use with that particular hitch, thus ensuring results that are applicable to real life use. Fatigue testing is also conducted on hitches rated for use with weight-distribution systems.
In addition, Draw-Tite performs static testing on a simulated automobile, as opposed to the rigid fixture used for SAE testing, resulting in a more true-to-life scenario.
At etrailer.com we're committed to the products we sell, and to our customers. Our experienced and knowledgeable staff are available via both phone and email to address your questions and concerns for the lifetime of your hitch. The technicians at etrailer perform hitch installations on a daily basis, making them a valuable resource for do-it-yourselfers. The one-on-one, personal service you'll receive comes straight from an expert in the towing and automotive field. We've installed it, we've wired it and we've towed with it, so whatever your question, we can answer it.
California residents: click here
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Hello neighbors, it's Brad here at Etrailer. And today we're taking a look at installing a Draw-Tite class one trailer hitch receiver on a 2018 Chevrolet Bolt. Having a trailer hitch receiver on any vehicle really adds a lot of utility, whether it be pulling a small trailer or a bike rack, or even a cargo carrier, you're adding a lot of real estate and usability from your vehicle. And this one you can see here installed, does that without looking any different, really from OEM, except for the business end. You're gonna see that the cross tube is actually hidden behind the bumper here. So all you see is the receiver itself, so it gives it a nice OEM look.
And it's not too much to look at down here. It's gonna give it a nice clean look still. Now this particular hitch is an inch and a quarter. So you are limited a little bit to your accessories. So when shopping for accessories, make sure you are looking for that inch and a quarter.
Some of the features here that you're gonna see on the hitch, they're gonna be a rolled steel safety chain loop, and that's gonna be great for smaller trailers, if you're towing to put your safety chains on there, and it's nice and open so you can even do a larger clevis style hook on there. And you're also gonna have a half inch hitch pin hole, and that's gonna be great for putting your pin and clip in to put your accessories in place. Now the hitch does not come with the hitch pin and clip, But we have plenty of options here available at Etrailer, including locking hitch pins. And that way your accessories, when loaded up, aren't gonna disappear in the hands of someone else. Now, as far as weight ratings on this hitch, they're relatively low being a class one.
And that's gonna put you at a gross trailer weight rating of 2000 pounds, which is the weight of the trailer, plus the accessories loaded up. So if you have a small little utility trailer that you want to do some maybe yard work or pick up a few things at the hardware store, you're able to do that, but you want to adhere to the tongue weight rating as well, which is gonna be 200 pounds. And that's gonna be the downward pressure on the inside of the receiver tube opening. So when you load up your bike racks or your cargo carriers, you don't want to overload that 200 pounds. Now it's important to check your vehicle's owner's manual to see what the vehicle is actually recommended for towing and compare that with what the hitch is rated at, and go with the lower of those two numbers.
That way you're staying safe. Now let's do some quick measurements. I'm gonna measure from the center of the hitch pin hole to the furthest point on the rear fascia. And that looks to be right at about four inches. And that's important to note when picking accessories or if you're looking at the accessories that you already own. And that way you can determine whether or not you're gonna have clearance on your rear fascia without making any contact causing scratches or damage. Something else that we're gonna measure that's important, is meteor ground clearance. So from the top of the receiver tube opening to the ground, you're looking at right about 10 and a half inches. And that's important to note, if you're planning on driving with accessories loaded up and going up an incline, or maybe an rougher terrain, you may have to worry about your accessories hanging low and making contact as you go up hills or have uneven surfaces. Now the hitch is steel construction with a nice black powder coat finish. So not only is it sturdy, but it's also gonna hold up to weather and corrosion with that powder coat finish, keeping it looking nice for a long time. Now, as far as the installation goes, it's not terribly hard. You are gonna have to remove the rear fascia as the hitch actually sits behind the factory impact bar. So don't let that scare you off. I'm gonna show you how to do it, step-by-step. So let's take a look at that. To begin our installation, we're gonna be needing to remove the rear fascia, and the hitch is gonna live behind here. So in order to do that, we'll begin by taking off Torxe bits in the wheel wells. Now we're gonna using a T15 Torxe bit and there should be five of them on each side. Now we'll be doing all of this on a lift. So it is gonna be a little bit easier for me to do it than the typical person at home, but I'm gonna walk you through this and I can trust that you'll be able to do this in your garage or on your driveway with basic hand tools. So let's go through this and you'll be able to see step-by-step how to get it done. And we'll be removing quite a bit of hardware, and it's really important, you're gonna want to keep these in an organized spot altogether. And that way, during re installation of all of these, you'll make sure that you have them all and not having anything missing. Now, fifth one is tucked a little bit back here, so it might be hard to find for a second, but just go a little bit further inward and you'll see it there. Okay so now that we have our inner fender liner T15s out, there's also three right here that attach it to this part of the bumper, we're gonna go ahead and remove those. And that way we can gain access to the bolt that's up here and that's gonna help get our fascia off. Now on the driver's side, you're gonna have the five in the wheel well as well, but you're also gonna have five down here instead of those three, so go ahead and remove those. So now we're gonna peel back this inner fender liner here. Just gonna work your way up. And once you get to where the rear fascia meets the rear quarter panel, you can feel the head of a seven millimeter bolt. So we're gonna go ahead and take that out. Now we can go ahead and do that on the other side of the vehicle. So now we're gonna go to the underside here where this under covering meets the rear fascia, and you're gonna see there's gonna be more seven millimeter screws here. So we're gonna go ahead and get those five removed. So now we're gonna need to take our taillights out and there's gonna be two T15 Torxe bits as well as a Phillips head right here. So we'll go ahead and remove those. So now with our three screws out, we're gonna take the taillights out. Now sometimes they can be a little bit tricky as they have pins that kind of slide in, and they're kind of meant to hold those. So you may have to kind of wiggle this back and forth a little bit, just to kind of knock it loose. And you can also give it a little forward movement here and with a little bit of patience and moving back and forth, we should be able to get this out. So just like that, you can see that actually slides over that. And that's where the pin is. So you're kind of trying to overcome that. There's also one down here. So that's where your friction is coming from, so be careful, but you're also gonna have to give it a little bit more force than you might think. So now, once we have this out, we're gonna simply unclip here and that way we can get our taillight out of the way. So you're gonna pull this red clip back. Now, sometimes these clips can get a little, you know, built up with some dirt and debris. So the flat head might pry this open just a little bit, just be gentle here, so there you go. You want that red to pop open and that's just the locking feature. You can then push this down and that should separate. Now put your taillight in a safe place. I'm just gonna put it here in the trunk and then we'll have it ready for installation later. So now we're gonna be pulling off the rear fascia. You're gonna want an extra set of hands here because this can be pretty large and you don't want to drop your bumper and scratch it. Now something else, you don't want to just pull this off completely once you have it detached, because there may be some electrical connections still attached. So let's make sure that we get those taken apart before taking the fascia completely off. Now the best method to do this. You're gonna start at the wheel-well side and slowly pry back at the clips, working your way towards the middle. So as I pry back, slowly gonna work our way here. You're gonna see these have little clips here, that slide onto those. So those should come off pretty easy. And then once you get both ends on the wheel-well side, pry it back, you'll get to this middle part and this should unclip just like that. And so here's this electrical connection that we're talking about here. So just like the other clips before slide this red tab back, and then this should push it in. Now with a little bit of wiggling, we should get this plug out. So sometimes if you push the clip in and then pull, it's gonna make it a lot easier. So now set your fascia aside. I'm just gonna be using just a trashcan here just to set it up. So our hitch is actually gonna live behind this impact bar, and it's gonna use these studs, but in order to get that, we're gonna need to take our exhaust here down because it does attach to it as well. But before doing that, we're gonna want to make sure that we brace up the exhaust before lowering it. And that way it's not using its weight to rest on itself, it can damage it. So what I'm gonna use is just a cam buckle strap here. I'm just gonna kind of loop it under it. And that way when it lowers down, it's got a little bit of support. Now, if you're in your driveway, you can use a block or whatever to hold this up, or you can wrap something here around it. As long as the exhaust isn't hot, main thing is you just don't want this dropping down and hanging down. So now with your 13 millimeter socket, we're gonna go ahead and remove these two bolts from the hanger bracket. And you can see it actually sits on this. We're gonna raise this up just a little bit to get this off, just like that. Next with a 15 millimeter socket, we're gonna go ahead and loosen up these nuts here. Now I'm gonna take off two of them and I'm gonna leave one of them still on threads. That way I can go to the other side and not have to worry about this side falling off. So now I'll take the one little nut here that I've left on there completely off, and now we can take our impact motor off. Now, when it comes to your underbody panel, you can actually take the whole thing off and not put it back on, or you can choose to trim it, which I think is a better option. So I've marked off based on the instructions, what that size should be. And I'm gonna go ahead with some snips here and just cut this off. So having this cut is going to give us clearance for that receiver to actually stick out. And the rest of this will stay covered. So trimming this out is gonna be nice because you still get the utility, but you're also still getting that protection underneath your vehicle. So now we're ready to put our hitch in place. And this is simply gonna slide over these studs here. And then our impact bar is actually gonna go on top of this, so I'll grab that. And I suggest having at least two of those nuts handy, in that way, once this is place, you can just hand thread this on there, and that will keep it in place for you. So now I have these hand tightened on. I'll go ahead and tighten them down. You don't need to get too crazy with them because we're gonna go back with a torque wrench, but this will get it in place a little bit better. So now we can go ahead and get our exhaust hanger bracket back into those little slots there. Now with that hitch behind there, I'm seeing that I will have to kind of bend these out just a little bit, because that space has been filled up with the hitch. So I'm gonna go ahead with just a pair of pliers and kind of bend these out a little. And with just that little bit that allows that to slide in. And I'm gonna go ahead and put our bolts back in. So now I'm gonna go back with my torque wrench. And based on the manufacturer's recommendations, I'm gonna use those torque specs to tighten these down. Now, this is an important step because it's gonna ensure that it's not too tight putting stress on the studs, but it's also not loose to where it's gonna come loose while using the hitch. Now, if you don't have a torque wrench, we do sell these here at Etrailer. Or generally, you can rent them at an auto parts store, but make sure you are doing this step. I'm gonna go through and do all the bumper beam nuts first. And then I'm gonna go back and do my exhaust bracket. Now note that those are different torque settings, as far as the smaller hardware here. So just refer to your instruction manual to make sure you had those proper settings. So now go ahead and remove your support that you had on your exhaust, and you can take that out. And at this point we have our hitch installed. Really all that's left to do is get our rear fascia put back on, our plug plugged back in, and all of our hardware cinched in place. So once you have all that in, ready to use your hitch, very crucial step, obviously make sure that you get your taillights reinstalled. And that was a look and installation of the Draw Tite class one trailer hitch receiver on a 2018 Chevrolet Bolt, thanks for watching..
I initially purchased a 'Brand X" Class 1 hitch that, which it lasted, seemed to do okay. I have to use a powered wheelchair which is carried on a self-contained unit with its own suspension system and wheels - placing NO weight on the hitch receiver or rear of my 2018 Chevrolet Volt. The entire weight of the carrier is less than one-third the rated capacity of the hitch. The complete weld on one side of that hitch receiver broke clean with the other side on its way! After some online shopping, etrailer came to the rescue with a Class 1 hitch more solid and robust than my broken one! The welds are superior as is the construction of the entire unit (I purchased the 200/2000 unit). Installation was straight-forward - there are videos on YouTube going step-by-step (I've attached a picture of the broken Brand X receiver + the new etrailer item). I'm giving the etrailer unit my highest compliment and state, "Buy With Confidence."
Installation videos on Youtube made it quite easy to install the hitch and wiring harness.
Trailer hitch works flawlessly with the Chevy Volt. A bit of work to get parts removed and attach hitch, but available video really makes it easy. Hitch is snug to the bumper without much ugliness or intrusion. Highly recommend!
I've been using this trailer hitch frame on my 2017 Chevy Volt for a year and it has served me very well. It bolts on very securely between the car's frame and the rear bumper bar so I'm confident in its hold. I've hauled an 8'x6' utility trailer fully loaded (probably > 1500 lbs total) multiple times with no issues. There is no flexing of the hitch at all. It's great that there is a customized option available for the newer Volt that is designed to fit it so well, allowing many Volt owners to get a lot more out of their vehicle.
I bought the Draw-Tite 24947 hitch for my 2017 Chevrolet Volt becausse it has a higher load rating than the Curt hitch. There is also a third hitch available for my car but it requires cutting a hole in the bumper cover and adding a spring loaded license plate frame-neither were features I was interested in. The Draw-Tite hitch mounts exactly as shown in the etrailer video and requires about 90 minutes. I raised the rear of the car on ramps which helped tremendously. The entire job isn't as difficult as one may think by watching the video. In my level garage the bottom of the hitch is exactly 8" above the floor. I suggest also purchasing a hitch cover insert since the hitch is quite noticeable and the cover makes it look much more finished. I use the hitch to mount my 2-bike carrier and it performs flawlessly. I do not plan to tow so I did not buy the wiring harness.
The Draw Tite hitch is well made and the instructions were clear and understandable. But, and there is always a but, this is not an installation for the faint of heart. A good level of mechanical aptitude is required. Simple things like disconnecting the tail light harness is a bit more than sliding the red clip lock forward. The release clip is not obvious and this step is where your skill sets will be put to the test. The tail lamp harness on the 2019 Volt is attached to the bumper cover and the harness unclips on the left side but the right side section does not have release clip. It requires removal of the christmas tree clips. (single use type clips) or you can set the cover to one side and not try to remove thr right side tail ;lamp harness. Take care when removing the 7mm fastners as there is one fasterner that is slightly different than the rest. It is slightly longer and is designed for one location in order to provide the additional reach needed to make contact with the reatainer clip. Other than that this hitch installation is a piece of cake!
P.S. be careful with the bumper cover side mounting clips as they can be easily be damaged. If any of this makes you uncomfortable have a mechanical shop or dealer do the installation for you.
I bought this hitch a year ago to mount a bike rack on my Chevy Volt and it has been excellent. It's held in place by the rear bumper, which has to be removed for installation. So it's extremely sturdy and secure. One problem is it didn't quite fit. The shop that installed it had to widen the holes, which didn't line up with the pegs. That cost me about an extra $40 in labor. But once they got it on it has been great.
I received the shipment promptly with no damage. While the install of the hitch is not for the faint of heart there's nothing that the average tinkerer with proper tools can't handle. As others have said the video created by etrailer.com was absolutely indispensable. I really didn't look at the paper instructions except for the cutout dimensions. I just set up my tablet nearby and followed the video and was finished in about two hours. The only minor issue with the install is that the extra thickness of the hitch with the bumper installed over it made it so the exhaust hanger didn't sit in the tabs without some minor modification but this was easily dealt with. I haven't gotten the bike rack I installed this for so I can't make additional comments on usage at this point.
Great product. Solid welds with a durable finish. This hitch design includes extra metal for the exhaust hanger that other designs do not have. It includes easy to follow instructions and a video which make for an easy install. It took me (with no power tools) an hour and a half with the cars back wheels on ramps. It is possible to remove the tail lights, and bumper without disconnecting the connectors. I would recommend laying some towels down to protect the finish on the bumper if this approach is taken.
The Draw-Tite trailer hitch is a great design and the install video was very very helpful!!!
The wiring kit was also well made and very complete. It would be nice to have a video of the wiring kit install also.
Received quickly and as advertised in a well packaged box.
Don
8/1/2025
Well it has been a year since I installed the curt hitch. Installation was simple while following provided instructions. I use it for a small 5x8 trailer to tow my riding lawn mower and to pick up other mowers for repair. The hitch has functioned very well. My only problem is the hitch is low and sticks out far enough that every time I back in to a spot with a curb I hit it or take a core sample of the landscaping. I have now altered the hitch with a 2 inch receiver tube and raised the tube 4 inches. The tube comes out in the lower inset area of the bumper. No more curb strikes and easier to install hitch pin. I can back in till my tires touch the curb without any problems. Hopefully draw-tite will take this in to consideration.
Totally satisfied! Fast shipping with accurate install info both in the package and online. My install went smoothly following etrailers instructions - thanks!
The hitch was a perfect fit for my Chevy Volt. And the DIY instructions were very good. The only problems were related to the age of my car. Removing the rear fascia, I broke some of the plastic clips. Also, the wire connectors were extremely difficult to separate.
Makes a Volt more versatile. It is never going to become a Farmall tractor, but tow bar adds more functionality for sure. Took about 4 hours, a little more than expected, but it came out good in the end.
It’s only a Chevy mon. A Volt that is. So I don’t work it too hard. I’ve hauled mulch top soil lumber and junk. I also receiver bike rack. The electrical hooked up fine. The volt has a battery in the rear easily accessible so getting power was no problem. All wiring storage is in a rear compartment. It does everything I expected And the Volt is surprisingly a fine little tow vehicle even under load
Michael
3/9/2024
Excellent! I installed the hitch on a 2017 Chevy Volt bringing the power for my trailer up through the storage compartment left rear so the wires are hidden. I use the hitch for a 4x8 utility trailer and bike rack. It is just what I wanted.
I installed this hitch myself in about 2 hours. Since then it hasn't let me down, and allows me to carry bikes on a bike rack.
Stephen
11/21/2018
Still holding up great. No problems at all.
Now that I have had the Draw-Tite Sportframe Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class 1 - 1-1/4" on my Chevrolet Volt for over a year, my rating remains 5 stars. Whenever I look at the picture of the rear end of my car lying on the garage floor I smile. I would have never attempted the install without the detailed installation available on etrailer.com. With the video on my tablet (pausing as needed) the install was a piece of cake and everything is working wonderfully more than one year later. This saved me so much money! The folks at etrailer.com rock!
Kevin E.
6/9/2020
Still 5 stars. Love the hitch. Love the fact I installed it with the help of the etrailer.com video!
This trailer hitch fits awesome. It is not obtrusive; it looks like it belongs there! The directions are clear and easy to follow. Some tips:
You can use all the existing fasteners (they're all long enough). The bottom bumper bolts can separate from the body while loosening them - I held them from behind with needle-nose locking pliers. I also had to expand their nuts with heat and spray them with penetrating oil, since the pliers can't grip the bolts all that well.
Stephen
5/6/2021
A year in and this hitch is still great. Im really happy I got it. It does not flex, doesnt stick out, and it just works. What more could you ask for?
After watching video provided from Etrailer, I had my Volt ready for install. Hitch showed up as promised and fit perfectly. We're going to use this to haul our bikes to trail systems. Thanks for the great service and products.
Dale
3/19/2021
Great, tucked out of the way, finish is holding up well.
Really happy with this hitch. The install was pretty straight forward on my 2016 Chevy Volt (gen 2) thanks to some great instructions included. There really were no surprises at all. I would suggest you wait to cut the underbody until the hitch is in place to avoid excessive cutting, but it's not a huge deal. I maybe have 5-10% more cut away than I needed to have.
This made for a neat father-son project with my 8 year old, who was pretty amazed at what the car looked like with the rear fascia removed, and how easy it was for us to do something that sounded impossible to him. Total time was probably 1.5 hours, with the biggest time suck being getting the screws out of the wheel wells. Jacking the car up would help, as would a right-angle watching screwdriver. I did neither, so it was a bit more tedious, but very doable. I also had a lot of trouble getting the wiring harness for the rear lights to separate, but I just released them from their mounting, which created a lot of slack, so I could just put the lights in the trunk. That worked well.
I've been using the hitch with a Thule 4 bike rack (the Apex), and it's been great. No sway or excessive wobble, which is better than the factory hitch in my 2015 Ford Escape. It is visible, but doesn't protrude behind the car (just underneath), and has had no issues at all.
Very happy, and really appreciate e-Trailers pricing and customer support.
Love this hitch. Bought an Allen 1.25" 3-bike carrier for it, and works great. Hitch was a relatively easy install (except all the plastic clips on the bumper cover). Be super careful with it. I broke two clips. Thankfully screws still hold it in place correctly. Modern body panels are just a pain. =/
Highly recommended for Volt owners. It does decrease clearance a tiny amount, but not noticeably. The bike rack does more of that than the hitch ever will.
Thanks etrailer!
Overall this product is excellently engineered for this car. The attachment itself is remarkably simple and the product itself is the perfect dimensions. the important bits (the ones that DrawTite designed) is literally bolt-on and takes 5 minutes - that is, once the car's fascia is removed. However, getting to that point is not for the faint of heart.
Get ready undo a lot of screws to get the rear fascia off - many of which use a tiny Torx size that is not really well suited to the size of the screw. I managed not to strip any, but there were a couple in the wheel wells that i had to use vice grips on to get them to turn.
Once you have all the screws out, it's time to eat some dirt (if you haven't already). The Volt's bottom cover grabs and retains sand, gravel, and pebbles, so there was about a 1/4" - 1/2" layer that needed to be dumped out. I think my car weighs about 1-2 lbs less now.
The pattern etrailer gives you to cut the bottom cover and make room for the hitch is conservative. I would cut it an extra 3/4" wider on the driver side of the cutout. (I had to redo this in order to get the cover to line up when reinstalling).
It was fairly easy to remove the fascia with one person. I recommend that you disconnect the wiring harness from below beforehand, so you don't have to worry about it. It's not too hard to get to, once the bottom cover is off. Next undo the sides of the fascia. The bolts behind the wheel wells come out easier than you'd expect. For the very first clip on each side, which is stubborn, a small flat screwdriver makes it release with almost zero effort. Finally just grab the whole fascia it in the middle so you can balance it, and pull it straight back and off.
Take off the bumper and exhaust (really easy), put the hitch on, put bumper and exhaust back, and bolt up. This is very easy, relatively speaking.
Put the rear fascia back on and then remember to reconnect the wiring harness before you put the bottom cover back on.
This is probably the most frustrating part - getting the bottom cover back on. Aligning the little studs with the holes in the cover is tricky, there is a lot of surface to manage, and you are eating dirt the whole time. Best advice IMO is to start at the center of the car and work toward the rear bumper. Use the white nuts to hold it up as they are easiest to put on with one hand. Once you have them all in you can tuck the bumper side in where it needs to go, and put the rest of the screws and bolts in.
Best of luck, the fit and finish look really good and unobtrusive.
Haven't used it yet but it feels solid. I was afraid it was going to be close to the ground but it sits higher than I expected so is OK; not the lowest part of the car but not far off so need to be careful backing up and going over bumps etc (though that's very true of the Volt in general).
Some tips for installation:
* Try to have a 7mm rachet socket as the wheel well screw is real pain otherwise.
* The 5th wheel torx that's furthest in could probably stay there; I took it out but honestly I think you'd be fine not doing so. And it's a pain to get to unless you take the wheels off.
* For the life of me I could not work out how to detach the tail light electrical cable. Some instructions for noobs would be good here! I just left the lights sitting semi-precariously on the lip.
* I had a devil of a time working out how to get the fascia off around the wheel wells, not having done it before. Pull the fascia out and away so you can see the next tab, then poke in and press the tab to release. If you don't have a tool, put electrical tape across where the tab is then push a screw driver through to get to the tab; that protects the fascia just fine.
* Once the sides are loose, pull the bottom out a bit then pull the top straight out. Mine was a tad "sticky" but then came out in a rush - pop! pop! pop!
* The hitch fit perfectly - perfectly flat, no warping, installing it between the beam and the body was a breeze.
* The exhaust hanger hanger sits in some brackets. When I reinstalled it the space was tight and I had to gently hammer it in and down.
* Reinstalling the fascia was muuuuuch easier :-) Top edge first then everything pops into place.
* After reinstalling the fascia check at the bottom that the underbody panels are where the should be - inside the fascia! Or you can do as I did and force them in when you get to them, just pull the fascia out and push the panel around/under.
Took me 3 hours much of which was agonizing over the fascia and the tail lights; almost gave up on the fascia and was going to take it to the dealer, but it is actually straightforward.
Easy installation if installer has a mechanical background, video was very helpful, fit to the car was very good, product seems very good. Price was very reasonable.
Pam M.
3/9/2021
Great! No problems at all with it. We just did a 900 mile trip with our mtn bikes and the hitch worked fine.
Arrived quickly and exactly as advertised. Very well built. Watched the amazingly detailed install video a couple times and then installed myself and was it was super easy. Took maybe just over an hour. A few tips for anybody installing themselves, don't bother jacking the car up, not necessary. Don't bother removing bottom panel, just cut the panel in place after you put the hitch on (saved me a ton of time skipping this step). And don't bother removing the 5th bolt in the wheel well (the hardest one to reach), I just loosened it a bit so that I could fold back the wheel well cover and reach that bumper bolt that needed to be removed. Really the most time consuming part of the install was removing and then re-installing all the screws/ fasteners. Best part was I had a reason to go buy a torque wrench which I found on sale locally for $22.99, smoking deal! The hitch looks great now that it's installed , looking forward to using it with my new bike rack.
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John C.
1/19/2021
STILL GOING STRONG!