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Trailer Hitch Installation - 2017 Chevrolet Volt

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How to Install a Trailer Hitch on a 2017 Chevrolet Volt


Today on our 2017 Chevy Volt, we're going to be taking a look at installing the Draw-Tite Custom Fit Class 1 Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 24947. Here's what our hitch looks like fully installed. The receiver tube is going to fit right below the bumper and that's really all you're going to see, giving it a nice clean look. Now, this is a Class 1 hitch, so it's going to have 1 1/4" by 1 1/4" receiver tube opening and this does use a standard 1/2" pin and clip which is not included, but you can pick one up on our website using part number PC2. Now, our safety chain loops, we're going to have a rolled steel stock welded underneath our receiver here, but as you can see, we've got plenty of room to get most size safety chains on or off without interfering with anything. As far as weight capacity concern, our hitch here features a 200 pound tongue weight which is going to be the force pushing down. It also features a 2,000 pound gross trailer weight which is the amount that it can pull. Now, I do want to mention, you always want to double check with your vehicle's owner's manual to make sure that your vehicle can handle that amount of weight. I'm going to give you two measurements to help you in deciding for new accessories for your new hitch, such as a bike rack or a cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pin holes to the outermost edge of the bumper is 5 1/4".

From the ground to the inside edge of the receiver tube opening is 9 3/4". Now that we've gone over some of these features, let's go ahead and show you how we get it installed. To begin our installation, we're going to need to remove the panel underneath the underside of our trunk here. We're going to have several different fasteners that we're going to need to take out and we're going to be starting with the 7mm bolts here. We're going to be using a 7mm socket to take these out. Now, if we come back farther underneath, we'll find that we'll have several more 7mm bolts that will need to be removed. If we come farther back under our panel again, you'll notice these plastic nuts.

We're going to be using a 10mm socket to remove these. I do want to mention, to give you an idea of where we are under our vehicle here, this panel that we're taking off is a rather large panel. It's going to go all the way from the trunk to just in front of our rear tires and we're going to have to take off all the fasteners which should be seven plastic 10mm clips and eight 7mm bolts. Finally, to remove our panel, we're going to need to take these screws out right here. I'm going to be using a T-15 torque spit to take those out. We're going to have one more fastener right here in the middle before we can fully pull our panel down. It's a plastic push pin, and I'm just going to be taking a flathead screwdriver.

You find the indentation right here and you get underneath it, you pry the center section out which will release it and then you can pull the whole clip out. If you're having a little bit of trouble with the clip coming out, once you have it released a little bit, you grab it with a pair of pliers and pull the clip out the rest of the way. Now, with all of our fasteners removed, I'm going to carefully pull down our panel. I'm going to start here in the back. Start by separating the two panels where they overlap, then slowly working my way around, pulling the panel off the studs. We're going to put this aside for re-installation later. If we go behind our wheels here, on each side we're going to have four torque screws that we're going to need to remove.

We're going to be using a T-15 torque spit to remove those. Now that we have the four removed on our one wheel well, we're going to repeat the same process on the other side. Behind our wheel well we just removed are four torque screws. If we pull it back and we look right at the seam where our fascia meets our fender, we're going to have a bolt that's holding it in place right here. That's going to be needing removed. We're going to be using a 7mm socket to remove that. Once we have this one removed, we're going to do the same thing on the other side. With all the panels and fasteners underneath our vehicle removed, we're going to have to remove our taillights so we'll come to our back hatch, open it up and we're going to need to remove the three fasteners on each side of our taillight here. Now, the two here, I'm going to be using a T-15 torque spit to remove those. For this fastener down here, I'm going to be using a Phillips head screwdriver. We can start pulling our taillight out and you're going to want to pull straight back and kind of go with a gentle wiggling motion, and it'll pop the clips loose. Just want to be careful not to break any of your clips. Once we have our taillight removed, we're going to come to this connector right here. We're going to push that red tab backwards, we're going to push down on that button here, and unplug our taillight, and we're going to set this aside for re-installation later. Since we have this one out, we're going to do the same process on the other side. Underneath our bumper, right behind each one of our tires, we're going to have a few more fasteners that we're going to have to remove before we can pull our fascia off. Here on the driver's side, there's going to be two screws and then we're going to be using a T-15 torque spit to remove them. We're going to do the same thing on the passenger's side, except on the passenger's side we're going to have three fasteners we're going to have to remove. Here we have our panel that we removed in the beginning and I marked out the measurements that they gave me in the instructions and I'm going to be cutting this out. You can either use a pair of tin snips, a rotary tool, or pretty much anything that cuts this material. It's not very thick. Now we'll be able to re-install the panel once the hitch is in place and we won't have to worry about this section interfering with anything. We're going to do one more thing before we remove our fascia. We're going to have to lower our exhaust down, so before we remove our fascia and lower our exhaust, I'm going to put a strap going around our exhaust so it'll allow it to come down but it won't go down too far and cause any damage. Now with an extra set of hands, we're going to get ready to remove our fascia. I do want to mention, our vehicle is equipped with back-up sensors and some lights, so you want to be extra careful and mind where you're pulling, because of any connectors. We're going to start back here towards the rear of our tire and we're just going to pull away from the vehicle and work our way around. If you look right here, we're going to have our connector. Just push in on this tab here. Connector should come apart. We're going to set our fascia aside so it doesn't get damaged. With our fascia removed, we're going to need to remove our bumper beam. We're going to have three nuts; two on top here and one underneath on each side. I'm going to be using a 15mm socket to remove these. We're also going to remove the three on the other side. On the passenger's side here, right above our exhaust, our exhaust hanger is going to be right underneath our bumper beam. We're going to need to remove these two bolts here. We're going to be using a 13mm socket. With those bolts removed, we're going to take our hanger and we're going to slide it out of the way. It may take a little bit of force to slide the muffler back far enough to get enough room to pull our hanger out. With our hanger out of the way, we go and pull our bumper beam off. Now with everything removed, we can put our hitch into place. I do want to remind you to be careful, but it should hold itself up because of the existing studs on our vehicle here. With the hitch loosely in place, I'm going to put my bumper beam back into place and on each side, I'm going to install one nut, hand tight, just so it doesn't fall down. With our bumper beam loosely in place, we're going to come back to our exhaust hanger, slip it back on our muffler. We're going to actually lift up our muffler and we're going to slide our clamp and our bracket into place. It may take a little maneuvering and if you can't quite get the holes to line up, you can take a screwdriver or something small and that way you can get it in there to get your holes lined up. Everything loosely in place, begin to replace our hardware. Everything's hand tight, so I'm going to come back and, using a 13mm socket, I'm going to tighten up my exhaust hanger. For my nuts holding my bumper beam on, I'm going to be using a 15mm socket to snug these up. With everything nice and snug, I'm going to come back and torque down my exhaust hanger bolts the specified amount in the instructions. Now we can come back and torque our bumper beam bolts to the specified amount in the instructions. Now, with an extra set of hands, we can put our fascia back on, but before we put it into place, I'm going to go ahead and reconnect our electrical connections right here. Now that our fascia's back on, I'm going to go ahead and re-install our taillights. I'm going to plug in our connector; I'm going to make sure that I push that red locking tab forward. Then I can line up all of our fasteners and clips and we can re-install all of our hardware. We're going to repeat that same process on the other side. I'm going to go ahead and put the bolt back in on each side right where our fascia meets our fender, and again I'm going to be using a 7mm socket. We're going to do the same thing on the other side as well. With everything buttoned up up top, I'm going to come back underneath. I'm going to remove my strap from my exhaust. Now all we have left is to button everything up, putting our panel in and replacing all of our hardware we took out. That'll finish up the look at the Draw-Tite Custom Fit Class 1 Trailer Hitch Receiver, part number 24947, on our 2017 Chevy Volt.


Info for this part was:

Employee Jacob T
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Employee Dustin K
Video by:
Dustin K
Employee Jonathan Y
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Employee Robert C
Test Fit:
Robert C
Employee Bradley B
Test Fit:
Bradley B

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