1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. Redline
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  4. Grease Seals - Single Lip
  5. 3.000 Inch O.D.
  6. 1.875 Inch I.D.
Grease Seal 29031

Grease Seal 29031

Item # 29031
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Our Price: $12.65
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Shipping Weight: 0.11 lbs
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Grease Seal 29031
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Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Redline. Grease Seal 29031 part number 29031 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-1624 for expert service.
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Redline Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 29031

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Single Lip
  • 3.000 Inch O.D.
  • 1.875 Inch I.D.
  • Redline


I.D.
O.D.
Height
Use With:
1.875 3.000.508 #8 Spindle

Seal Cross-Reference
Dexter #
Transcom #
National #
NOK #
Chicago Rawhide #
-
18305VB
440298
AF2759EO
-



Product detail alt="bearing" />

29031 Grease Seal 29031





Video of Grease Seal 29031

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Grease Seal 29031 - 29031

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (34 Customer Reviews)


- 29031
by:

George, I ended up at etrailer after a fairly exhaustive search for all of the hard parts contained in my order. I found Timken bearings, but not all of them. I found SKF seals but they were 4 days out plus for delivery. The cost of USA made name brand bearings wasn't the issue for me, it was availability. As you may know, the axle that takes those 3" OD inner bearings with such a small 1 1/2 spindle is an old, possibly very old Ag or boat trailer axle. They are meant for high load, but slow speed use. In comparison, the bearings you sent while appearing to be of good quality to the naked eye are also much smaller rollers indicating a higher speed bearing but of less maximum load capacity. None of this really matters when you have such a hard time finding the parts needed to complete the job in question. I simply state this for your information, but certainly, you were already aware if the differences in sizing and load capacity. It's doubtful that the trailer in question will EVER see enough load to make any difference in performance whatsoever, so please don't take my statement as a complaint. As for the seals, they are the correct dimensions, and I did find your website helpful in double checking my cross reference work between brands. I'm also sure they will work just fine, but they do lack an innerspring to hold the tension of the inner lip seal against the spindle's seal area. Again, they will do the job, at least at first but I'd guess they won't last nearly as long and aren't a double lip seal design as the SKF, and National brands were. I'm not complaining one bit here, I promise. The cost factor differences were dramatic to say the least. The 2 inner bearings and 2 inner races made by Timken were equal to ALL 4 bearings and races, plus the seals from you guys. Look, I realize that stocking such expensive and nearly obsolete parts made in the USA isn't a business model for anyone who wants to stay in business very long selling something that can be found down the street at nearly the same price. I understood what I was ordering before I ever started putting things into the cart on your website. As a heavy equipment mechanic of 30 years experience, I promise your parts will get the best of treatment and a proper start to their life, hopefully, a long use life without issues. The bearings will be sonic cleaned before they are every packed with the best of grease choices. All the races and the seals will be installed with the proper driver to make sure they are square and seated correctly into the hub bore. I assume if you use this review of mine for your website that you will not edit it in any way. What people using your site and customer service need to understand is that while I might see the differences I do not think I purchased ANY sub-par parts. Other customers need to also know that "In Stock" with you guys means "In Stock" and after hours of phone calls looking for those particular parts it was a very welcome thing to read on a website and even better when the order shipped On Time, Complete, and at what I consider to be a very reasonable cost. They would also need to know that your website is just chocked full of easy to find information. My example besides the seal cross reference information is the wiring diagrams. The color differences between RV trailers and Utility trailers makes you double check things to make sure you got it right and ALL that info is readily available on your site. Much easier to access than other companies. In closing to what certainly is an overly detailed reply to your request for feedback, I'd just like to thank you, George. Thank you and your company for doing the EXACT thing you said you would and thank you for taking away a fair amount of frustration searching for parts. I will certainly use your company again and again if for nothing else, it's ease of use and promptness of service. If you'd seriously like pictures I will be happy to try and supply them at a later date. For now, this old trailer has to get back to earning its way.


Comments
After some explaining to the owner of the trailer that none of these bearings were intended for high speed highway miles at least not many hes taken it easy on this ancient trailer. So far, everything works very well, with no grease leaking past seals and all the bearings carrying their weight well.
Mike - 05/08/2019



- 29031
by:

Fit perfect and no grease leaks



- 29031
by:

This seal did not fit my hub. The original seal was a National 203034 seal. The outside and inside diameter were the same but the rubber contact area was offset by about 1/4 inch and would not grip my hub. The national seal was a centerline seal without any offset. If my seal area on my hub was longer then this seal would of have worked.


Comments
Thanks for the feedback Randy. But the National Seal cross reference for this seal is 440298. So that would likely be why this is not a direct match for you. I did look and at this time we do not carry a seal with this as a cross reference.
-- Etrailer Expert Rachael H - 07/25/2017


- 29031
by:

Right part and fast shipping!



- 29031
by:

seal was better quality then the one I replaced very good.



- 29031
by:

I had purchased a trailer with Trostel 300-156-6F seals and couldn't find anything at local stores for replacement. I took to the internet and found etrailer and the recommendation for these replacement seals. I ordered the seals, and they were quickly shipped and arrived at my house in a timely fashion. Replaced the old seals and worked perfect!



- 29031
by:

It was an really good fit. I sent you some pictures already,did you get them?



- 29031
by:

These seals arrived on time and in good shape, although the package was torn open and I feared some kind of vandalism or theft. But both seals were contained in a small zip lock baggy inside the envelope. They are the correct size and just what I needed. Appreciate the speedy service and fair price. I will need two more next week and will place the order then. I wanted to sure these were the right size. They are. Thanks.



- 29031
by:

Proper fit. Put them through 11 hours of use during the second day.



- 29031
by:

The serves you have given is out standing, couldn't any better. I can only comment on one thing.. I was looking for the delivery by the (UPS) as your Emails had suggested.. The items was sent by (USPS) this is no problem. I thought UPS had screwed up like several weeks ago. Now I don't have time to install them bearing right now as I'm cutting fire wood, but as soon as I can get them installed I'll respond again. Thanks George.. Best Regards.. Jerry Bush



- 29031
by:

Have always had really good service from etrailer.



- 29031
by:

Great price, fast shipping, All in stock parts, great service.. Thanks from the great White North


Comments
great
Martin S - 05/27/2018



- 29031
by:

The right part at the right time with excellent delivery and service



- 29031
by:

Hard to find seal. You found it from my crude measurements. Fit perfectly Thanks



- 29031
by:

Exact replacement.


Comments
No problems, everything is in good working order.
Dave - 07/10/2018



- 29031
by:

Product better than the ones I replaced. I forgot to order two of these seals and for some reason only Ordered one. Need to order another.



- 29031
by:

a good product for a hard to find item. Installation was a breeze.



- 29031
by:

Fit perfect as expected.



- 29031
by:

Exact product ordered arrived as promised and at an unbeatable price. Thank you



- 29031
by:

Good service Everything came in as ordered. Good service . Good parts.



- 29031
by:

etrailer had this hard to find part in stock. Delivery was as stated. My salesperson McCoy was helpful and knowledgeable. All the components were in one box ant individually wrapped, but fortunately no damage seen. Now the work putting everything back together begins.



- 29031
by:

Good quality product, fast shipping



- 29031
by:

great product..great price



- 29031
by:

Great quality, perfect fit.



- 29031
by:


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Ask the Experts about this Redline Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • What Is the Width of Grease Seal 29031
    The width and height are the same thing in regards to a grease seal, just worded differently, so the .508 height is the width (or thickness if you want to call it that) of the Grease Seal # 29031. This seal will work for you though, as the important factors are the inner and outer diameter. So because your seal has the exact same 3.000 inch inner diameter and 1.875 outer diameter you will be able to use the Grease Seal # 29031.
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for a 1993 Eagle Trailer
    I can help with the bearings, and most likely I have a seal that would work for you, but I cannot find any information on the 221333 seal that you referenced. The Bearing kit # BK3-100 includes both of the bearings you need plus a 10-36 seal. This seal has an inner diameter of 2.225 and an outer diameter of 3.376. You might take your current seal and compare its dimensions to these and see if it would work for you.
    view full answer...
  • Possible Replacement for Trostel 300-156-6 Seal
    So after quite a bit of research it seems that the Trostel 300-156-6 seals you mentioned are quite old and have not been around for some time. The best I could find was that they are 3.00" in outer diameter, and I did manage to find a customer who left a review saying a good replacement was the Grease Seal # 29031. You can see that in the accompanying cut out I added, and though I can't verify that for certain, you may be able to if it is possible to measure the spindle where the grease...
    view full answer...
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  • Replacement Bearings, Races and Grease Seals Old 6 Lug Utility Trailer Hubs
    I couldn't find that seal number for a cross-reference. Based on your manual caliper measurements the Grease Seal # 29031 is a perfect fit. Then you will use the bearing # 2788 and # 1779. If you need the replacement races for these then # 1729 and # 2729 are what you need. I recommend using the 7-Piece Installation Set for Bearings, Races, and Seals # PTW83020 to make removal of your current races and installing the new ones easier.
    view full answer...
  • Availability of Grease Seal Ring for Seal on 22834 Trailer Hub
    Based on my research the Redline Grease Seal # 29031 that you ordered is the correct seal for your 22834 hub (which is what I assume you have based on the # 2788 inner bearing and # 1779 outer bearing that you also purchased). We do not have a ring available by itself for this seal but the seal should fit the spindles on your trailer perfectly without one. Just to make sure you can also measure the spindle where the grease seal rides with a digital caliper like # 301-17068. If you get...
    view full answer...
  • Need a Grease Seal to Replace a Transcom Grease Seal 171255
    based on the number you have provided, you have a Transcom grease seal. We have a TruRyde brand that will fit. For a pair, you would need # RG06-050. Or for one double lip seal, # 58846. To be sure, you can check the measurements of your seal. The measurements will have to be as accurate as possible so I recommend using a set of dial calipers. The inner diameter of the TruRyde seal is 1.719 inches. The outer diameter is 2.565 inches.
    view full answer...
  • Grease Seal to Replace Part Number 174253tb
    If the inner diameter is 1.719 inches and the outer diameter is 2.565 the # RG06-050 would be the closest matching grease seal we offer. You will need a digital or dial caliper for this measurement. The grease seal number you referenced doesn't cross reference with anything we offer but based on the bearing numbers a different customer came to us with that said they also had the same seal number you would need the # RG06-050. You would still need to measure to verify this. Also,...
    view full answer...
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  • Replacement Trailer Axle Seal Recommendation with Outer Diameter 3.367 inches
    For a replacement grease seal for yours that has an outer diameter of 3.367 the closest seal we offer that will work is the part # 5606 that has an outer diameter of 3.365 inches.
    view full answer...
  • Does Redline Trailer Bearing Grease Seal # 29031 Include a Spring
    The Redline Trailer Bearing Grease Seal # 29031 that you referenced does not include a spring. This single-lip seal is for use in the inside end of a trailer hub (the side closest to the axle and furthest from the spindle). I think the part with a spring that you are referring to is a special type of outer grease cap (not an inner grease seal) called a Bearing Buddy. These mount on the outside end of the trailer hub/spindle in place of a standard closed grease cap. They hold a supply...
    view full answer...
  • Grease Seal Availability for Trailer Hub with Outer Diameter of 3.0 inches
    Closest seal we have is the part # 29031 which has an outer diameter of 3.0 inches and inner diameter of 1.875 inches. What I would recommend you do is measure the spindle diameter where the seal rides. That's going to be a more consistent and easy measurement to get exact. If the diameter is right at 1.875 then the seal would work. If the diameter is 1.75 then the seal would be too big.
    view full answer...
  • Need a Replacement Grease Seal with 1.50 ID and 2.565 OD
    We do not have a grease seal with this particular combination of inner and outer diameters. We have seals with both inner diameters you provide, and seals with the same outer diameter, but not both. If you took your measurements from the old seal, rather than the axle spindle and hub, it is possible that the seals are deformed slightly from wear which could make the measurements unreliable. One option is to give us the inner and outer bearing numbers; from these we can find the corresponding...
    view full answer...
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  • Trailer Hub Grease Seal Recommendation that has Inner Diameter of 1.688 Inches
    For a grease seal that has an inner diameter of 1.688 inches and an outer diameter of 2.332 inches you would want the part # 168233. If you need a different outer diameter email me back and I will see what we have that would fit.
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  • Can a Double-Lip Trailer Hub Seal be Used in Place of a Single Lip Seal
    Yes. You can use double lip seals in place of single lip seals on your trailer hubs. The double-lip seals are much better at preventing grease leaks and seal blow outs. I have included a link to all of the double lip seals we carry.
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  • How to Pick Out Correct Replacement Seal for a Trailer Axle
    In order to pick out a grease seal to match the hubs of your trailer axle you are going to need to remove the hub from your spindle and using a dial caliper or micrometer get the exact diameter of the spindle where the seal rides and then get the exact inner diameter of the hub bore where your seal fits in the hub. The spindle measurement will be the inner diameter needed for your replacement seal, the inner diameter of the hub will be the outer diameter of the seal you need. Once you...
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  • Where To Measure To Find Dimensions Needed For Grease Seal Replacement
    I do not have a cross reference to the number you asked about but may be able to help you find the correct replacement seal. You will need to take a measurement with a precision tool like a digital caliper. On the drawing I have attached it shows the location (B) you need to measure to get the correct inside diameter of the seal. If you can also measure the inside diameter of the hub bore that will give us the dimensions we need to find a suitable replacement.
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  • Replacement Brake Assembly, Bearings, Races, and Seal for Old Trailer Axle
    Based on the bolt pattern and the brake flange on your axle, you will want to start with the Electric Trailer Brake Kit - Self-Adjusting - 12" - Left and Right Hand Assemblies - 5.2K to 7K # AKEBRK-7-SA. Then for your hub drums I recommend reusing your current hubs as we don't have a suitable replacement and using bearings # 2788 and # 1779. Then for a seal I believe # 29031 is the correct fit. If you want to replace the races inside the hub use # 2729 and # 1729 along with the installation...
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  • Replacement Bearings, Races and Seals for Hub #22834
    Although the #22834 hub is an older, obsolete trailer hub, we do have the replacement parts you are looking for. From what I have found, this hub uses a # 29031 grease seal. The replacement inner bearing is # 2788 and the outer bearing is # 1779. The races you need are # 2729 and # 1729.
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  • Finding a Hub for a Very Old Trailer with 6 Lug Bolt Pattern # 1779 inner and # 2788 Outer Bearings
    I did some research and found that the 2,600 lb Hub, # 22834, takes the # 1779 outer bearing and # 2788 inner bearing and would use the # 29031 grease seal. This hub has a 6 bolt on 5-1/2 inch bolt pattern. This sounds like the hub you have, and replacement parts are available. Along with the parts mentioned above you may need grease caps, # RG04-060, and races, # 1729 and # 2729, to complete parts needed to repair one of your existing hubs. When doing my research I found that no other...
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  • Availability of Replacement Bearings, Races, and Seal # 1779, # 1729, # 2788, # 2729, # 29031
    We do have the bearings, races, and a grease seal that seems to match. For the bearings and races you just need to enter the numbers you have given me and they will come up but they are not available in a kit. # 1779 (outer bearing) # 1729 (race for outer bearing) # 2788 (inner bearing) # 2729 (race for inner bearing) I did a cross reference check for a Victor Seal # 49739 and found that it is 1.875 inches inner diameter, 3 inches outer diameter, and is 7/16 inches thick. I would...
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  • Replacement Brake Assemblies and Hubs for 1960 Airstream Trailer
    It sounds like your assemblies are not the typical assemblies and will need to be replaced. For your brake assemblies, I recommend the Electric Trailer Brake Kit - Self-Adjusting # AKEBRK-7-SA along with mounting hardware # BRKH12. If you don't have the brake flange compatible, you can use the Brake Mounting Flange for 3" Round Axle # 4-44-1 which needs to be precisely welded in place. Then for your drum brake assemblies to match, I need some more information. I will need either...
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  • Old Trailer has 2 Different Sized Spindles and Obsolete Bearing and Seal Numbers
    That looks like a mobile home axle. It is possible that both axles are mobile home axles. But the problem with that is they are meant for one time use only. People get them because after they are used they are cheap. It is possible that this is also why the axles have two different sets of bearings. It is also extremely difficult to find parts for mobile home axles. The 2788 and 1779 bearings are associated with hub 22834 which is not available. The seal sounds like a # 29031 which has...
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  • Availability of Trailer Hub Using Timken # 2788 Inner Bearing and Timken # 1779 Outer Bearing
    I did find a reference to a trailer hub # 22834 that used a # 2788 inner and a # 1779 outer bearing, however I'm sorry to say the hub is obsolete and is no longer being manufactured. The hub has a 6 lug on 5-1/2 inch bolt circle. Although the hub isn't available, we do offer the bearings, the races # 1729 and # 2729 and the grease seal # 29031. If your hub(s) are damaged beyond repair, you'd need to replace the spindles or the entire axle. I can check on the availability of a replacement...
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  • Replacement Parts for Oil Bath Hub with Seal 203034X and Bearing 1779
    That certainly does appear to be an oil bath hub. The seal number is associated with 1956 to 1959 Studebakers as far as I could find. It looks like the dimensions of the seal are 1.875 inches inner diameter and 3 inches outer diameter. We have one seal that has the dimensions, # 29031, but it is a grease seal, not an oil seal. The bearing # 1779 is associated with race # 1729. They fit hub 22834 which from what I could find is not an oil bath hub. The inner bearing that is associated...
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  • What are Dimensions of Grease Seal 29031
    I can't find any info on the seal you referenced but the seal part # 29031 that you referenced has an inner diameter of 1.875 inch and an outer diameter of 3 inch. If those two dimensions match you'd be set.
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