What Weight Distribution System Should I Use on a 3200 lb Trailer

Updated 03/16/2026 | Published 03/11/2026

Products Featured in This Question

Andersen Weight Distribution Hitch w Sway Control - 6" Drop/Rise - 14K GTW, 1.4K TW

(40)

$749.98

Blue Ox SwayPro Weight Distribution w/ Sway Control for 2" Hitch - 3.5K GTW, 350 lbs TW

(519)

$833.67

Question:

Hello, I am interested in your hitch with the chains and hitch with built in sway control. Is this product acceptable for a lighter trailer around 3200 pounds? Thanks, Dan

asked by: daniel r

Expert Reply:

Hey, Daniel. Thanks for your question.

We do have a weight distribution hitch that would work for your trailer and still use chains. That hitch is the Blue Ox SwayPro # BXW0350. The tongue weight rating needed for this system to work is between 150–350 lbs. Since your trailer weighs 3,200 lbs, you won't have any issues falling within that range.

What are you hauling around in your trailer?

expert reply by: Gwendolyn Y

BXW0350
(click to enlarge)

Daniel R.

3/14/2026

I appreciate the response; I did not mention the biggest driver of my question. I currently have the style of hitch you recommended; however, my back is not what it once was, and I have issues installing that style of hitch. I love that hitch as it always did what it was designed to do without any issues for about 17 years or so, but my back! So my thought was going with the unit with the chains instead, does that make sense? Dan

3/15/2026

@DanielR I have used the Anderson’s hitch for about 7 years. I like them for a couple of reasons: 1. It is easily adjustable for a number of different weight trailers. 2. When you get where you’re going it is removable from the trailer and therefore not easily available to undesired folk. 3. Overall a lot lighter than conventionally ways.

Tom M.

3/15/2026

@DanielR Daniel, I've been uisng the Anderson hitch on my 2025 Winnebego 2108TB trailer for almost a year now. My trailer's dry weight is about 4200, but the hitch is adjustable for any weight up to it's max. You''ll do an initail adjustment by measuring the unloaded height of a front and rear reference point such as the top of the opening of your wheel wells. Then adjust the hitch to to spec so those measurments are correct. I'ts pretty easy. It's in the instructions. There's two ways of attaching and removing the hitch. The factory method is losen the chain nuts and count the turns, until the chains have enough slack to remove the pin and drop the plate. A trick I learned online is to place your blocks under the jack and without releasing the ball lock, or touching the chain nuts, raise the trailer tongue AND the rear of the truck just until the chain lose tension, pull the pin, drop the chain plate and lower the tongue/truck rear until the ball lock can be released and then raise the trailer off the ball. The second way always leaves the chain nuts at the proper position so when you reverse the process to hook up, they're at the correct tension. I remove the safety chains, loop them under the Anderson chains, then up over the frame, and clip them together behind the jack. That holds the plate and all the chains off the ground. FYI: I have an electric jack and it handles this method just fine. NOTE: You won't need to lift the truck rear very high, just slightly higher than the unloaded height. One small quirk you will encounter using method two, is; you need to be more careful that you have backed the truck up as close to the same angle as when you removed the hitch in order for the pin holes on the plate to align with the pin holes in the ball shaft, otherwise you won't be able to get the pin back in. I carry a short piece of pipe I can slip over the end of the pin to rotate the ball slighlty if I need to align the holes. Sounds complicated, but it isn't. Otherwise, if you use the factory method, the chains are lose enough, the hole alignment isn't ctitical. I really like the hitch because in use, you don't know it's there other than the fact like any WDH, you can feel the trailer is pushing down on the tow vehicle's front end, but with the Anderson, turning and backing are as easy as a regular non WDH. You can almost jackknife the truck/trailer to back into tight spots and the hitch never complains. It's like it isn't even there. Sway control is excellent. While the ball assembly is heavy, it's nothing like all that steel of a regular WDH so the whole thing is easier on the back. I keep a long handled ratchet in the trailer with the Anderson factory supplied socket on it.