Will the Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver C12163 Fit a 2016 Mercedes-Benz B250e

Updated 06/08/2021 | Published 02/19/2019

Products Featured in This Question

Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class II - 1-1/4"

(13)

$248.67

Curt Cam Buckle Stabilizing Strap for Hitch-Mounted Accessories - 61" x 1" - Qty 1

(666)

$15.93

Curt Class II Euro Style Drawbar with 2" Ball - 2-5/8" Rise - 3,500 lbs

(386)

$35.94

Question:

I have a 2016 Mercedes B250e, which is rather rare in the US but very popular in Europe. You do not show a ltraiker hitch for the B250 but do show a unit for the Mercedes CLA. I researched European hitch manufacturers - they call them tow bar hitches - I found that they offer a hitch for my car and it is the same product number as the hitch they sell for the CLA. However, shipping from Germany costs more than the cost of your hitch for the CLA. I intend to purchase your hitch and attempt to nsyall it on my B250. If it works - I think It should, I will post pictures, if not what is your return policy?

asked by: Paul

Helpful Expert Reply:

If you are within 60 days of receipt of your shipment, you may return any new, unused item for a full product refund. However, the shipping and handling charges will be deducted from the product credit unless the return is a result of our error. All that you will need to do to initiate this process is contact our customer service team.

The Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver part # C12163 that you referenced is listed as a fit for a 2014 - 2018 Mercedes-Benz CLA250. If the B250e is indeed as rare as you say it is then odds are the manufacturer has not yet had a chance to test fit it on the model you have. Therefore, the issue is most likely not that it is not a fit but rather that it has not yet been tested. If you take a look at the instructions I have attached for you as well as the photo you will get a better idea of how it mounts which should give you more info on whether it will work or not.

The Curt hitch has a class II rating with a 1-1/4" receiver tube opening. It has a gloss black powder coated finish for both looks and durability. For the CLA250 it is a no-drill option and rated as a "moderate" install taking most only 60 minutes or so on average. Please note that if you will be using this hitch for a bike rack or cargo carrier then it is also recommended to use the Curt Cam Buckle Stabilizing Strap part # 18050 for added support. If you will be using the hitch for towing then you will need the Curt Class II Euro Style Drawbar part # C45572.

expert reply by: Conner L

click to enlarge

Andre B.

6/5/2020

Hello, I'm a bit late, but I just installed a # C12163 hitch on a 2015 Mercedes-Benz B250 4matic and I can confirm that this hitch model fits on the car. However, there is a hump in the sheet metal on the car, behind the bumper, that I had to massage a bit with a big hammer to make the hitch sit properly. In Europe the B250 2.0l 4matic is rated for 1400kg.

Chris R.

6/9/2020

Thanks for your feedback!

Toonie

7/2/2020

Would you consider the same for a 2017 B250 4matic?

Adam S.

7/2/2020

@AndreB do you have pics of before during and after

B250

6/8/2021

It's kinda mandatory to wire directly from the battery, otherwise you'll be having error codes, you don't want to have a big consumer to take the power from a weak source, it's going to overcharge some random circuit and the computer going to throw an error code. I went differently than video clips- i passed the wire through the cabin, used the hole for the hood opening cable (it's just behind the battery), then i removed the plastic panels and the carpet covering the driver side rocker panel, had to unscrew the lower bolt of the drivers security belt and then up back into the trunk. Considering the fact that I did it on my driveway it went faster than going under the car. The wiring is very easy, follow the instructions provided with the kit. The yellow wire to the left blinker, the green wire to the right blinker, black wire is the hot wire from the battery and the other wires grounded to the frame. It's the so called PWM STT system , just Google it. At the back, total of four wires going to the rear lights, in two of them indication of 0.2 on the multimeter, the other two had around 3W for running lights, 0-12W with the blinker activated and 12W with the stop light. One of those wires had more power on the running light (something around 3.5 compared to 2.8 on the other) so I took that wire to connect the converter (again yellow for the left blinker/stop/taillight and green for the right stop/turn/tail light). Didn't use the splices, had a bad contacts in the past, I don't trust them anymore so I cut the wires and used a soldering iron for the connections.

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