Hey Ron, great question! The Coleman-Mach Underbunk RV AC #CM82RR vents the heat through the floor. Installation requires creating openings in the floor for air flow, heat rejection, and also for the drain pipes. See the attached photo. The #CM62RR…
Hi Angela; you will run air ducting (not included) off of the openings on the side of the Coleman-Mach Underbunk RV AC #CM62RR. I recommend getting the All-In-One kit #CM82RR which includes all of the accessories you need for installation. The unit…
Hello Geoff, thanks for reaching out. The closest thing we have to that would be the Better Bath RV Kitchen Sink #LC421572. This is 25" long x 15" wide overall. The interior of the sink is 22-7/8" x 12-7/8". Do you have any…
For a 25-3/4" x 14-3/4" cutout we have the following single bowl and double bowl options: Single Bowl: Better Bath RV Kitchen Sink #LC385313 Double Bowl: Better Bath RV Kitchen Sink #LC388412 Better Bath RV Kitchen Sink #LC385314 LaSalle…
Hey Mike, congrats on the new trailer. The Tire Linc Pro TPMS for RVs and Trailers item #LC77VC is the Lippert TPMS Prep. This is just the aftermarket version of what gets installed on newer trailers. It includes four sensors that mount to a trailer…
Hey Jeff, Depending on how much clearance you need from that tailgate is going to determine what kind of hitch extender you will need. Assuming you just have a factory 2" hitch receiver on your Ram you could go with the hitch extender #e48YR…
Hey Michael! Since you were looking at the SoftStartRV Soft Start #SSR54FR are you wanting that built in as well? The Active Controls ActiveStart Plug-In Soft Start for RVs #AS94FR is a soft start and surge protector all in one. If you aren't…
Hey Chris, No, there isn't an upgrade kit for your Generation 1 MORryde StepAbove RV Steps to make them a Generation 2. There is a Replacement Leg for MORryde StepAbove RV Steps - 2nd Generation #MR36DR, but because the Generation 1 steps'…
Hey Ron, great question! The new PowerMax stand-alone converters like the 45A #PM34VR, 55A #PM94VR, 60A #PM44VR, and 100A #PM84VR give you three selectable charging modes so you’re not locked into one charging behavior. 3-stage mode factory default:…
Hey Tyler, yes, as long as your factory jounce bumper and bracket are still in the original location, the Firestone air bag kit #F64XV can absolutely fit your lifted Silverado. You’ll just need the right Firestone spacer to restore air-spring height.…
The Lippert Replacement 500:1 Motor for Electric In-Wall RV Slide-Out System, #LC287298 is the proper replacement part for Winnebago PN 181862-01-700 and is considered a high torque replacement motor. If your 2014 Itasca Solei 38R was built with the…
In these days of customer "no service" I am usually disapointed when doing business with people I don't know. It was refreshing doing business with you. I'm impressed!
Randy
Watkinsville, GA
RV Sinks with Drop-In Mounting
Measure your counter cutout and pick a drop-in RV sink for a straightforward upgrade. Replacing an undermount is easier to seal at the rim, and installs may use silicone sealant or clips; some drains glue to ABS/PVC instead of threading, so have the right cement on hand. For best fit, aim for a cutout about 3/4" smaller than the sink's flange to avoid gaps.
Yes, a Drop-In is a common upgrade and can be easier to seal. Be ready to trim the opening and adjust the drain plumbing. If your sink uses threaded pems and wing nuts, handle them gently and check threads before tightening. Plan your access from below—tight spots make setting tabs and screws harder.
Some drains glue instead of thread, so ABS/PVC cement may be needed for the tailpiece. Check whether your drain tailpiece is designed to glue to the sink fitting. Use clear silicone at the rim, and dry-fit the plumbing to confirm alignment before cementing to avoid stress on the connections.
Most use studs under the flange with L-brackets and wing nuts; slip brackets on, lightly snug, then tighten in a clockwise rotation. Studs typically aren't removable. Some models without tabs are set with silicone sealant and weighted while it cures. Dry-fit first to confirm it sits flat before sealing.
Often yes, but confirm the flange is larger than the hole. Aim for a cutout at least 3/4" smaller than the sink's overall flange to avoid a gap. If your hole is larger, you may need to fill or cover the gap. Some installs require notching screw holes or trimming tabs underneath to let the rim sit flush.
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