Light up campsites, ramps, and job sites with off road lights that suit your setup. Choose flood beams for wide area work or spots for reach, and wire them as reverse or utility lights. LED options deliver brighter, instant-on light with lower energy use than old halogens. For wiring, frame-ground steel trailers or run a ground on aluminum; some lights carry IP67 ratings for temporary submersion.
Look for an IP67 rating. That means dust-tight and able to withstand immersion in water up to 1 meter for up to 30 minutes. Seal your splices with heat-shrink butt connectors to help keep water out. Mount where they won't take direct impact and double-check your ground on aluminum frames.
Yes. You can splice them into the reverse circuit and tie into the reverse pin on a 7-way. Use your trailer's ground wire on aluminum frames; on steel frames you can ground to the frame. Confirm the circuit can handle the draw—lights that pull 1.5 amps have been used successfully. Weatherproof your connections to reduce corrosion.
Measure the bracket and mounting hole—you may need to enlarge a hole or shim the mount for clearance. Verify wire polarity if it isn't labeled. Some lights include a short pigtail, so plan for extra wire and a sealed splice. After install, confirm the beam pattern covers the area you need.
For two lights drawing 1.1 amps each over roughly 32 feet, 14 AWG is safe. If you might add more lights, step up to 12 AWG. Install a 5A fuse near the power source, and make sure the wires and connections are weatherproof and grounded properly.
Some LED lights can cause CB interference. If that's a concern, choose a design noted to be CB-friendly or test one before committing to a pair. Route power leads away from antenna coax, and add a proper ground. Avoid aiming bright lights into traffic, and consider a light cover to reduce glare.
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