To see if this custom-fit item will work for you please tell us what vehicle you'll use it with.
When wiring a trailer, the last thing you want is a short that fries your taillight circuits. The Curt 4-Way Flat Trailer Connector with Circuit Protected Powered Tail Light Converter runs a dedicated power wire straight to the vehicle’s battery. That setup isolates the trailer lighting from your vehicle’s factory wiring, so any trailer short stays outside the vehicle’s system. It’s the safest and most reliable way to power your trailer lights.
With this harness, you get a standard 4-flat connector that handles all the basics—running lights, turn signals, and brake lights. It gives a clean, dependable connection for small and mid-size trailers, campers, or utility haulers. You can hook up and know everything is working exactly as it should.
Instead of dealing with complex factory connectors or special adapters, this harness uses a simple splice-in design. The plug-and-lead style gives you flexibility to mount the converter box where it fits best and route wires neatly along the frame or trim. Once connected, everything is secure and out of the way.
Trailer wiring can take a beating from road debris or critters, but keeping it shielded is easy. You can pair this harness with add-ons like an in-line fuse holder or 1/4" wire loom to protect exposed runs. That extra layer keeps the wiring safe from damage and helps your setup last longer without headaches down the road.

Customer Satisfaction Score:
96% were satisfied with this product
4% of customers were not satisfied
Ratings & Reviews
Great transaction. Satisfied with the product. Works great.
I just finished installing the Curt trailer converter. I also used the Curt tester to verify that the harness wiring was installed correctly. All lights are operational on the tester! It was a success! I followed the instructions that were supplied and also used a VW factory wiring diagram to verify the proper wiring to the rear lights. Very honestly the use of the factory wiring diagram is a absolute necessity to get the correct wiring. I ran the wiring under the vehicle into the engine compartment to the battery. I would not recommend trying to run the hot lead through the interior and dash panel. There are not grommets in the firewall to go through and about impossible to get the trim and the under dash panels removed.
Info for this part was:
At etrailer we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time.




Thank you! Your comment has been submitted successfully. You should be able to view your question/comment here within a few days.
Error submitting comment. Please try again momentarily.