1. Trailer Hitch
  2. Draw-Tite
  3. Class III
  4. 2 Inch Hitch
  5. 4500 lbs GTW
  6. Visible Cross Tube
Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"

Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"

Item # 76145
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Trailer Hitch

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Draw-Tite Custom Fit Hitch - 76145
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Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection. Lowest Prices for the best trailer hitch from Draw-Tite. Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" part number 76145 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (49)
  • Q & A (21)
  • Videos (8)
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  • Why etrailer?

Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch - 76145

  • Draw-Tite
  • Class III
  • 2 Inch Hitch
  • 4500 lbs GTW
  • Visible Cross Tube
  • 675 lbs TW
  • Custom Fit Hitch

Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection.


Features:

  • Custom-fit trailer hitch lets you tow a trailer or carry a bike rack or cargo carrier with your vehicle
  • Computer-aided, fully welded steel construction ensures strength and durability
  • Tested Tough - safety and reliability criteria exceed industry standards
  • Easy, bolt-on installation - no welding required
    • Complete hardware kit and installation instructions included
  • Lifetime technical support from the experts at etrailer.com
  • Black powder coat finish covers e-coat base for superior rust protection
  • Sturdy, square-tube design
  • Ball mount, pin and clip sold separately


Specs:

  • Receiver opening: 2" x 2"
  • Rating: Class III
    • Maximum gross trailer weight: 4,500 lbs
    • Maximum tongue weight: 675 lbs
    • Not rated for use with weight distribution systems
  • Limited lifetime warranty


Draw-Tite Tested Tough

Draw-Tite Tested Tough

Draw-Tite's Tested Tough program provides testing standards far superior to those outlined by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), the go-to source for engineering professionals.



Each Draw-Tite trailer hitch receiver undergoes extensive fatigue testing and static testing with the ball mount that is either supplied or recommended for use with that particular hitch, thus ensuring results that are applicable to real life use. Fatigue testing is also conducted on hitches rated for use with weight-distribution systems.


In addition, Draw-Tite performs static testing on a simulated automobile, as opposed to the rigid fixture used for SAE testing, resulting in a more true-to-life scenario.


etrailer.com Technical Support

At etrailer.com we're committed to the products we sell, and to our customers. Our experienced and knowledgeable staff are available via both phone and email to address your questions and concerns for the lifetime of your hitch. The technicians at etrailer perform hitch installations on a daily basis, making them a valuable resource for do-it-yourselfers. The one-on-one, personal service you'll receive comes straight from an expert in the towing and automotive field. We've installed it, we've wired it and we've towed with it, so whatever your question, we can answer it.



76145 Draw-Tite Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver - Max-Frame

Installation Details 76145 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles



California residents: click here


Video of Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2"

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Installation - 2018 Dodge Charger

Speaker 1: Today on our 2018 Dodge Charger, we're going to be taking a look at and showing you how to install the Draw-Tite Class 3 custom fit trailer hitch receiver. Part number 76145.So here's what our hitch is going to look like once we do have it installed. It is going to sit just right below the bumper, but it is going to blend in nicely with the black plastic here, so it's not going to distract from the looks of our charger. It is a class three hitch, which means it's going to give us that two inch by two inch receiver tip opening, and as you can see, it has a reinforced collar, not only giving it that added strength, but just an overall clean, finished look.Now the way that we're going to attach any of our accessories through our hitch, is going to be through this hole right here towards the front. Now it is going to accept a standard Five Ace pen and clip. Although not included in the kit, but you can pick one up on our website, using part number PC3.

Now the secondary whole through the back of the receiver tube, that's going to be used for the J pen stabilization device. Now that's going to be nice if any of the accessories you have don't have a built in anti-rattle. Now the way that's going to work is we're going to take our J pen and a long, threaded part is going to go through the pin hole, and the other section is going to go through the other hole towards the back of the receiver tube. What that's going to do is that's going to sandwich the accessory and push it to the side of the receiver, using this nut, tightening it up so that it keeps it nice and tight inside the receiver tube, so it won't be rattling around.Now the other nice fact is that it is a locking device, so all of our accessories are going to be nice and secure on our car. Now this is not included in the kit either, but it is a nice accessory that you can pick up on our website.

Now the safety change connection points are going to be loop style, they're going to be welded to the bottom of the receiver tube, we're going to have plenty of room to get most sized hooks on or off. What I really like about this is that they're just slightly offset from the pinhole, so even if we are using a locking device, we're still going to have plenty of room, and we're not going to have to worry about it interfering with our hook, or our hooks interfering with the locking device. Now as far as weight capacity goes, our draw tight hitch is going to have a tongue weight of 675 pounds along with a 4500 pound gross trail weight rating.Now with all that in mind, I do want to mention you always want to check your charger's owners manual and never exceed the manufacturer's recommended weight. I'd like to do a few measurements that will help you in deciding for accessories for your new hitch, such as a ball mount, bike rack, or even a cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch can hold, to the outer most hitch of the bumper is going to be about five and a half inches.

From the ground to the inside top edge of the receiver tube opening, that's going to be about 10 inches.Now that we've seen what our hitch looks like and gone over some of the features, let's show you how to get it installed. To begin our installation, we are going to be taking a few different steps in the construction say, because we did find it easier to do it the way we're going to, which means we're going to have to remove the fascia, this thing. We're going to go ahead and open up the trunk and we're going to be pulling out the tail lights. On the inside of our trunk, we're going to have our cargo tie down right here and the back. Now these will spin, but they're not screwed in.

You're just going to want to grab that hook and pull back pretty hard, kind of wiggling it back and forth, because they're just pressed down. And we'll do that on both sides. Now if we move up towards the top of our trunk lid, we're going to have a plastic push pin fastener right here.We're going to be using a trim panel tool to pop it right out. Now you can use a flat head screwdriver, just going to want to get behind the push pin, work it back and forth and pop it out. Now there is going to be one on the other side and we'll remove that one as well. So if we come up to weather stripping, we're just going to pull it back slightly, and we're going to pull the carpet back, exposing the two studs and the plug that's holding our tail light in. So if we come to the top of the plug, there's going to be a little tab, we're going to push in on that tab and unplug the tail light.You're going to want to grab an 8 millimeter socket and we're going to pull the two nuts off of these two studs right at the top and the bottom of that plug. We're going to remove the other two on the other side as well. With those fasteners removed, we can go ahead and pull the tail light out. Now if you are having trouble getting it out, you don't want to twist it because there are some alignment pins in there and you don't want to break them. So if you have a plastic trim panel tool, you can come to the edge here, and we're just going to pop it straight back, which will release the taillight and we can pull it out and set it aside. We'll do that for the other side as well.Right behind the rear tires, inside the wheel well area, right by this lift, we're going to have a few push pins that are holding the wheel well liner to our fascia. So again, I'm going to take a trim panel tool. We're going to use a flat head screwdriver, and with these you're going to want to pop out the center section of the push pin and that'll release some of the tension. Once the center is pulled out, you're going to come behind it and pop the rest of the clip out. You're going to repeat that for the other two remaining push pins. There's going to be one at the bottom and one towards the top where it meets our fender. We're going to have three push pin fasteners on the other side and we'll remove those as well.With those push pins undone, we're going to go ahead and pull inwards on the wheel well liner, and pull it towards the front of our vehicle, exposing the backside of our fascia. Towards the top here, we're going to have a ten millimeter bolt that we're going to have to remove. So if you grab a ten millimeter socket, go ahead and pull it out. That bolt's going to be at the very top of our fascia, right where the fender meets the fascia. Now if we move towards the bottom of our fascia, we're going to have a seven millimeter bolt holding that in as well. So you're going to want to grab a seven millimeter socket and we can pull that out.Now with those two bolts removed, we're going to do that on the other side as well. Now starting at the very corner, or the edge here of where our fascia meets our fender, we can start to peel it back. Now I do want to mention, it is going to be a little tight. The clips that are holding it in place are pretty strong, but what you're going to want to do is grab your fascia and pull down and out. You're going to have to give it a good amount of force to get it un-clipped. Now the easiest way we've found to get it undone is if you take that plastic trim panel tool and you just stick it in between the fender and fascia and you're going to want to pry it down. You can almost feel it start to release and it will pop out without breaking any of the clips. Now we're going to start working our way towards the center, and we're going to break the other side loose first though.So then you have this corner section loose, you're going to come into that tail light area, you're going to grab it and kind of lift up to release the clips that are right here. Start working it loose from each side, going towards the center. You just want to make sure that you don't drop it so you don't cause any damage. Now we are going to have some electrical connectors on the backside that we're going to have to disconnect. Now right here at the edge of the fascia where that reflector is, it's actually a light. So if you take a flat head screwdriver, there's going to be a small tab right here. You just want to pry it up real gently away from the light, and push down at the same time and it will release the connector. You want to make sure you disconnect both sides.So we can very gently and slowly pull the fascia away from the car, and we are going to have one more connector, right in this area on the passenger side. Behind the bumper here, we're going to have this rather large connector, you see this gray tab. You're going to want to pull that gray tab out to unlock it, you can here it click when it unlocks, and just like the other connector, we're going to squeeze on that tab on top and then pull the connector out. Then we're going to set the fascia aside where it won't get damaged.Now, with the fascia being removed, we're going to be able to lower the exhaust down farther, a lot easier. Because per the instructions, they want us to take this driver side muffler completely off, but on our application, we have a welded exhaust, so we're not going to be able to do that. So we're going to start by lowering the exhaust down. Right here, at the very edge or back of where the tail pipe is, we're going to have a hanger, and there's going to be a bolt holding it in place and then if we move back from the muffler, towards the front of the car, we find the other muffler, the other hanger, we're going to have another bolt holding it in place as well. They're going to be on both sides and we're going to be using a 13 millimeter socket to pull those bolts out.Now with one side removed, we're going to go ahead and do that on the other side as well. Now right where our exhaust comes to a Y, right in front of that, right by the route differential, we're going to have one more bolt hooked to the hanger that we're going to have to remove. Now I'm going to be using a 13 millimeter ratcheting wrench, just because there is limited access here because of the trunk pan.Now with that hanger, it does have a little tab here at the top to keep it supported even if the bolt is out, so what you're going to want to do is you're going to want to lift up slightly on the exhaust and then you're going to pull that tab out. Now you can see our exhaust didn't really come down that far, but if we can just rotate our exhaust hangers out of the way, we have a decent amount of room on each side. If we did follow the instructions, since we can't disconnect it here, we would have to follow it going forward, remove this cross member area here, as well as this one, and come all the way to where it Y's again, remove these two clamps and then wrestle the exhaust back and forth until we had enough room to disconnect it and then drop it down.If you do do that, keep in mind to have a support strap so they don't damage the exhaust. So let's go ahead and go over the mounting locations for our hitch, and then we'll show you how to get the hardware in place. If we come to the frame rail right above the muffler here, we're going to have several holes that are in the frame. We're going to have a large whole, smaller one, another large one, and then a small one. Each one of these large holes are going to act as our access whole and we're going to be using the two small ones on either side, and that's where our hardware is going to be coming down.Now on the driver's side, is is going to be slightly different. Now on the drier's side, we are going to have the same combination of the large holes and the smaller holes, but the small hole that's in between the two large ones is going to be threaded and that's going to have a factory weld nut in there. So we're actually just going to thread our bolt into place, rather than dropping the bold down in the frame.We're going to take our fish wire, and I'm going to just put a pretty good bend in it, like this, and we're going to be going in the hole that we want our bolt to be coming out. So we're going to go in the small hole that's towards the front of the vehicle. We're going to put the coiled end in and we're going to feed it through, so that it comes out the large access hole here. Now you're going to want the tail and the coiled end sticking out. You don't want it to go all the way through, and pull it out. Then we can take our square spacer blocks, we're going to feed it over the coiled end, then we're going to take one of our half inch carriage bolts, that's going to be the one that's got that squared notch and the round head on it, and we're going to thread it onto the coiled end of our pole wire.Then one piece at a time, we're going to take our spacer block, feed it into the frame, and then we're going to take our bolt and feed it into the frame as well. And then you're going to want to pull on that wire so you get everything dropped down and then you're going to want to leave everything attached, making it a little bit easier for us later on. Now we're going to do that same method for our other hole right here and the one on the driver's side. So before we get our hitch up, I want to go over what's actually going to be securing it, that way you can see it a little bit better now. So that threaded hole, like I said. We're going to take that half inch bolt, that's going to be followed up by a conical tooth washer.You want to make sure that those teeth on the washer are facing up towards the hitch. Just slide it up toward the washer and we're going to go through our hitch and thread it up through this hole right here. Now each one of the bolts that are coming down to the frame, we're going to take another one of those conical tooth washers, slide it over the bolt, and secure it down with a half inch nut. Now with an extra set of hands, we're going to take our pull wires and we're going to go through the holes on our hitch. You're going to want to slide it over the exhaust and you're going to lift your hitch up over the exhaust making sure those pull wires are going through and you don't push the bolt back into the frame. You're going to remove the pull wire off of the bolt, and we're going to take that conical toothed washer and nut and secure everything down.Now if you need a little bit of extra leverage to keep the bolt from moving, you kind of slide the hitch to one side, and it'll trap the bolt from moving around, then you can thread your hardware in place. Once you have one bolt on each side, the hitch will support itself, and then we can work on getting the rest of the hardware in place. Now the easiest way to tighten these down and snug them up, is we're going to take a 3/4 inch socket, a swivel, and an extension, and we're going to snug up all of our hardware.I'm going to come back with a 3/4 inch socket and a torque wrench. I'm going to torque all my hardware down and we're going to find that amount in the instructions. We're going to repeat that for all of our remaining hardware. With our hitch torque down, we can go ahead and start putting our exhaust back up. You're going to want to lift up on the exhaust and hook that tab in there, making it a little bit easier to line up the bolt and it'll help support the exhaust.We can get it started, then get the rest of the hangers in place. Just get a few threads started on all of them, then we can come back and tighten them up. Now we're going to get an extra set of hands, put our fascia back in place. You want to make sure you plug in all of your electrical connectors, the one in the back here and also the lights on the edge. The lights on the edge might be easier to plug in once you get it in place because we still have access right on the edge here to get our lights plugged in. Make sure it locks in and just line the fascia back up, pushing it and locking it into place.So now we're going to start putting our tail lights back in place. You just want to be careful lining everything up. Make sure those alignment tabs line up and you don't break them putting them back in. Plug the tail light back in and we can put those two nuts back on the studs. Now if the light pops out like it did on here, simply just put it back in the bottom, and it'll click back into place.Just going to push the carpet back underneath the weather strip here, just kind of flip it back into position, and we'll take our push pin fastener, reinstall it, as well as the cargo tied on. With these you're just going to want to push in. It'll slide in rather easy, give it an extra good push, and it will lock into place. We're going to do that for the other side as well.Now we can put those fasteners back in the wheel well. Put that ten millimeter bolt back, get it hand started, come back and snug it up. We can put that smaller bolt at the bottom of the fascia back as well. Line the wheel well liner back up, then finally replace all those push pins. Now the easiest way to install these is you make sure that center section is still sticking out. You're going to line them up, going to push the outer section in, then lock it down by pushing the center section in. You're going to want to repeat that and do that on the other side and put everything back into place.That'll finish up your look at the draw tide class 3 custom fit trailer hitch receiver. Part number 76145 on our 2018 Dodge Charger.


Customer Reviews

Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" - 76145

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (49 Customer Reviews)

Fully welded vehicle trailer hitch is strong and durable. Draw-Tite's Tested Tough guarantee ensures that this hitch exceeds industry standards. The combination of an e-coat base and a powder coat finish provides excellent rust protection.

- 76145
by:

Easy to install. Fit is superb. I will order again when the need arises. I am taking the 300 on a long road trip with my family and needed more luggage room so I will pull a small utility trailer that I already own. 638301



- 76145
by:
2005 Dodge Magnum

I received the hitch for my 2005 Dodge Magnum today, on schedule. I installed it in about a hour and a half including clean up. The installation went without a hitch, haha. The instructions were excellent and everything fit perfectly with no drilling required. Very satisfied 563928



- 76145
by:
Dodge Charger

Product fits well and fairly easy to install, on my charger gt I had to remove the bumper which was the hardest part. If you have some mechanical knowledge should be no problem. First product from etrailer and was very impressed with the customer service, they helped me pick out the perfect hitch for my vehicle and kept in contact with me about shipping dates and was able to quickly respond. 490734



- 76145
by:
2016 Dodge Charger

I ordered a different hitch originally, but due to fitment issues this one was sent as a replacement. Bill in customer service was a true professional in handling the return and replacement with this hitch. The Draw Tite fit my 2016 Dodge Charger Pursuit perfectly. Installation was very straightforward and easy to do by myself. I have purchased two hitches from etrailer over the last five years, and I will never shop anywhere else for towing products other than etrailer. The pricing is right, fast shipping, and their customer service can't be beat. Thanks! I HIGHLY recommend them!! 501925


Comments
I bought an adjustable drawbar, and with Interchangeable ball sizes, it makes this hitch compatible with just about any height trailer.
Craig - 04/28/2019

54592

- 76145
by:
2009 Dodge Challenger

Hitch fits great. I still have not figure out what a quad exhaust is, but any who, it went on in about 45 minutes. Spent 15 minute fishing 1 bolt through. Should only try to use that fish wire 1 time. Other than that, I'm good to go. 453922


Comments
Kevin, the quad-tip exhaust is a dual exhaust system with 2 tips on each end of the exhaust, for a total of 4 tips. I have emailed you an example photo.
-- Laura E - 11/22/2017

31182

- 76145
by:
2015 Dodge Charger

Product tight against the underbody, only visible portion is the 2” receiver square. No clearance issues from normal driving and curb areas. While minor, it would be nice to have a protective cover for the receiver square. It would tie it up nicely and give an opportunity to advertise the product, since it’s the only visible part on my 2015 Dodge Charger AWD. Very happy with this product. 539085



- 76145
by:
2012 Chrysler 300

The Draw-Tite installation went very well just like the instructional video described. The total install time was about 1-1/2 hours as a one man job and this include the time to put my 2012 Chrysler 300 up on 5 inch blocks for the needed working clearance plus post job cleaning. One exception to the video I made on the job was to not disconnect the exhaust handing brackets forward of the rear axil. I am generally please to find that the job was as discribed. 433061



- 76145
by:
2013 Chevrolet Volt

The hitch was shipped quickly and arrived without a scratch. The installation video from the website was spot on. Super easy installation!! I jacked up my car and put it on jack stands. There was plenty of room under the car. I removed the 6 exhaust hanger 1/2” bolts, dropped the exhaust then bolted the hitch right up. I re-hung the exhaust Total time was 1hr and 5 minutes from start to finish. 471366


Comments
I am still very pleased with my etrailer tow hitch for my 2016 Dodge Challenger! I’ve been able to tow my trailer with both motorcycles and gear as well as furniture and miscellaneous buildings materials. It still blows my mind how easy the installation was. I recommend etrailer tow hitches to everyone!
James B - 01/30/2019

49071

- 76145
by:

Thanks for the great service. My trailer hitch came much quicker than I expected. It was easy to order and looks great. Can't wait to install 448406



- 76145
by:

Great product works perfect fits on the money 460229



- 76145
by:
2007 Dodge Charger

Fits great. They thought if everything, the fact that 1 of the 4 holes has a welded nut, they sent elevator bolts with washer plates so it doesnt spin in ur fram and even multiple fish lines so u can fish your bolts through, just overall 10, if u have issues with this set up, u need to ask them or read the manual because everything is there and easy as heck, mounted it in less than 5 min with an impact gun 737051



- 76145
by:

Awesome service and follow up,haven't fitted product yet but sure it will be fine,thank you once again. 724999



- 76145
by:
2016 Dodge Charger

Great 713464



- 76145
by:
2019 Chrysler 300

The hitch arrived quickly and install was a snap. Thanks for a quality product and timely service 705222



- 76145
by:

Excellent product with excellent design and instructions for installation! 703470



- 76145
by:
2019 Dodge Challenger

My hitch arrived today as others have described the box had some damage . One of my main concerns was the mounting parts falling out of the box so I'm glad to report they were plastic wrapped to the hitch itself so no real chance of falling out. Also even though shipping companies are capable of tearing up an anvil the way it was secured inside the cardboard box I don,t think there is any real damage. The part of the hitch that can be seen when mounted is well positioned in the box. Where some scratches may occur a shot of black paint could easily keep rust away. Don't know about the fit yet my newly built Challenger scat pack hasn't made it to the dealer yet. 691482



- 76145
by:

Great fit. Does not drag. I was a little concerned about that. Works well with my bike rack. 683288



- 76145
by:

Hitch was way easy to install & fit was perfect 658462



- 76145
by:
Dodge Charger

It fit like a glove, just curious why it has 3” of clearance above the receiver hitch frame to the car body. My charger don’t have much ground clearance anyway so it should’ve been modified a little to raise it higher. I have to be careful backing to a curb or it will make contact 652028



- 76145
by:
Chrysler

I order A hitch on Monday I live in A town 50 miles west of Las Vegas, Nevada. The ups man dropped it off at 3 pm. It took me 1 hour to have it on my Chrysler 300. Thanks you guys are the very best. 638076



- 76145
by:
2017 Dodge Challenger

I’ve had no problems with this product and the people who have noticed on my 2017 Dodge Challenger RT have nothing but good things to say about it. 635078



- 76145
by:
Chrysler

Sturdy, rugged yet sleek and elegant! Easy to install!! It is awesome having my Chrysler 300 pulling a trailer with my motorcycle!!! 633805



- 76145
by:

Hitch was flawless and install was excellent (made easier by removal of bumper cover). No pics because I sold the charger 621623



- 76145
by:
2018 Dodge Charger

The Hitch and wiring for my 2018 Dodge charger fit perfectly,thank you 615572



- 76145
by:
2014 Dodge Charger

Fits 2014 charger awd, muffler shop stated it was an easy installation no problems A+ 611848


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Ask the Experts about this Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch

  • Parts Needed for 2017 Dodge Challenger to Tow Trailer
    It's a combination of a few things, but the only people who will be able to give you the green light to tow with your car will be Dodge as they rated it, engineered it, and will be who would have to honor the warranty of the vehicle. Clearly you have the drivetrain to tow with your Challenger, but the other things to consider is the cooling capacity of the engine and transmission, the brake power, the frame strength, suspension components etc. That said we have a 2 inch hitch that...
    view full answer...
  • Towing Weight Capacities for a 2006 Dodge Charger
    The Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver # 76145 is a confirmed fit for your 2006 Dodge Charger. Although it is a Class III trailer hitch with a 2" receiver that has a 4,500 lb Gross Trailer Weight (GTW) rating and a 675 Tongue Weight (TW) rating, you are wise to look into weight capacities for your vehicle. Most (but not all) of the time a trailer hitch is rated for higher weight ratings than the manufacturer has rated the vehicle for. This is to ensure that you can tow with the...
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Hitch Recommendation for 2016 Dodge Charger to Tow Small Trailer
    We have a great hitch for your 2016 Dodge Charger and everything you'd need to tow with it but we do not have a small trailer like you are wanting. The best hitch solution will be the Draw Tite part # 76145 that you mentioned as it's a 2 inch hitch with plenty of capacity at a great price. Next thing you'll need is trailer wiring like the Tekonsha kit part # 118655 which is very easy to install and comes with a very reliable converter box. Since you wanted to do some towing you...
    view full answer...
  • Parts Needed to Transport a 330 lb Power Chair with a 2011 Dodge Charger
    If you look at your owner's manual on page 428 it states that the max tongue weight for your 2011 Dodge Charger is 100 lbs if you have the 3.6L engine or 200 lbs if you have the 5.7L engine. Because of this you will need to tow a small trailer behind your Charger to carry your power chair. Even though it is rated for more weight than your Charger can handle, I recommend installing the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver # 76145 for your trailer hitch. You also need a ball mount...
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Hitch Recommendation for 2018 Dodge Charger Towing Trailer
    For your 2018 Dodge Charger the trailer hitch I recommend is the Draw Tite part # 76145 because it has a 2 inch opening which means it the best towing capacities and because more hitch accessories are made for this size. I attached a picture that shows what the hitch looks like installed as well as an install video link. For trailer wiring you'd then want the T-One kit part # 118655 since it's a custom install kit that won't require any splicing and because it has our most reliable converter...
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Hitch Recommendation for 2006 Chrysler 300C SRT
    The Draw Tite hitch part # 76145 that you referenced is a confirmed fit for your 2006 Chrysler 300C SRT and would work well. I attached an install video for this hitch as well.
    view full answer...
  • Drill Bit Tap for Weld Nut for Trailer Hitch Installation on 2014 Dodge Charger
    I believe the part you are talking about is the weld nut on your 2014 Dodge Charger where the M12 bolt for the Draw-Tite Trailer Hitch # 76145 installs. For this you need the 12 mm x 1.25 Tap and Drill Bit # PTW8662.
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  • What is the Height of the Draw-Tite # 76145 on a 2016 Dodge Challenger for Choosing a Ball Mount
    When we installed the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver # 76145 on a 2018 Dodge Challenger we found that from the ground to the top of the inside of the receiver measured 9-1/4" as you can see in the attached photo. It might be a little different for your 2016 Challenger but this should give you a ballpark idea of what you need. You will also need the T-One # 118656 wiring and a ball mount to tow. I have also attached an installation video for you to reference as well as...
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  • Trailer Hitch Recommendation for 2011 Dodge Charger with High Tongue Weight Capacity
    For your 2011 Dodge Charger we have the Draw Tite trailer hitch part # 76145 which is a confirmed fit and has plenty of tongue weight capacity for a carrier with a Pride 1450 as this hitch has a tongue weight of 675 lbs. You'd have to verify in the owners manual of your vehicle if it also has enough tongue weight capacity.
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  • Trailer Hitch and Wiring Recommendation for 2010 Dodge Charger
    Whenever there's a Class III hitch available for a vehicle like your 2010 Dodge Charger like the Draw Tite part # 76145 which is a confirmed fit it's the way to go. This would be your best option for towing a small trailer. For trailer wiring then the part # 118404 would be a great option that's also confirmed fit. Since you wanted to do some towing you might be interested in etrailer ball mount kit # 989900. It comes with 2 ball mounts; one with a 3/4 inch rise or 2 inch drop and...
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  • Recommended Trailer Hitch Receiver for a 2006 Chrysler 300C SRT8
    For your 2006 Chrysler 300C SRT8, I recommend the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver # 76145. This hitch will be a custom fit for your vehicle and not only will fit and look nice but will be really strong and durable with a tongue weight rating of 675 lbs and towing weight rating of 4,500 lbs. These ratings likely surpass your manufacturer specs, so I recommend checking with the manufacturer using your VIN as your owners manual won't give the actual towing capacity for your model. This...
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  • Distance Between Bolt Holes On Draw-Tite Hitch for a 2018 Chrysler 300
    In regards to the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver part # 76145 which is a confirmed fit for a 2018 Chrysler 300 (All Models), the mounting holes are about 41" apart on center which I think is what you are asking for. If not, please just let me know but I have also attached a dimensional drawing for you as well.
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  • Measuring for Trailer Hitch Receiver Ground Clearance on a 2013 Chrysler 300
    I went out and took the measurement on both hitches for you. The Draw-Tite, part # 76145, measures about 9 inches from the top of the wings where the hitch mounts to the vehicle's frame to the bottom of the collar around the receiver opening. The Curt, part # C13093, sits a lttle lower, the same measurement is about 10 inches. I've attached pictures, as well as an install video for each hitch.
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  • Trailer Hitch Recommendation for 2016 Dodge Charger SXT
    Yes, we have trailer hitches that fit your 2016 Dodge Charger SXT. The Draw Tite hitch part # 76145 would be a great option confirmed as a fit. For trailer wiring you'd then want the part # 118655 which is a confirmed custom fit. Since you wanted to do some towing you might be interested in etrailer ball mount kit # 989900. It comes with 2 ball mounts; one with a 3/4 inch rise or 2 inch drop and one with a 2-3/4 inch rise or 4 inch drop. It also includes a 1-7/8 inch ball, 2 inch ball,...
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  • Will the Trailer Hitch for a 2019 Dodge Challenger Work with Aftermarket Exhaust
    In order to install a trailer hitch on a 2019 Dodge Challenger with aftermarket exhaust, the best option we have for you is the Curt Trailer Hitch Receiver part # C13236 not the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver part # 76145. The Curt hitch as you can see has a smaller bracket profile than the Draw-Tite hitch so there will be a better chance of compatibility. That said, there would not be a way to confirm fit as none of the trailer hitch manufactures do any test fitting with...
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  • Recommended Trailer Hitch Receiver and Ball Mount for 2007 Chrysler 300C
    For your 2007 Chrysler 300C, I recommend the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" # 76145. This is a confirmed fit for your vehicle and will give you a strong and sturdy hitch for towing and accessories. For your trailer wiring, I recommend the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector # 118406. This custom-fit T-One connector plugs into your Chrysler 300C's wiring harness, which is located inside your trunk, behind the tail...
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  • Recommended Trailer Hitch Receiver for 2018 Chrysler 300C
    For your 2018 Chrysler 300C, I recommend the Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver # 76145. This is a 2 inch receiver that is rated for up to 675 lbs tongue weight. I've attached a video of this installation to assist. The plastic underbody panel will be permanently removed with this installation. If you will be towing with this trailer hitch, I recommend the T-One Vehicle Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector # 118658. This harness will connect to your factory wiring...
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  • Recommended Trailer Hitch Receiver and Mobility Scooter Carrier for 2006 Chrysler 300
    On your mother-in-law's 2006 Chrysler 300, there is a sticker normally on the driver's door that gives you the Gross Axle Weight Ratings (GAWR) for the front and rear axles not to be exceeded. To determine the maximum loading conditions of the vehicle, locate the statement “The combined weight ofoccupants and cargo should never exceed XXX kg or XXX lbs.” on the Tire and Loading Information placard. The combined weight of occupants, cargo/luggage and trailer tongue weight (mobility scooter...
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  • Does etrailer.com Also Install Trailer Hitches on Vehicles
    Yes, if you are local to us (near Wentzville, MO) we can install our hitches like the Draw Tite hitch part # 76145 which is a confirmed fit and an excellent choice for a hitch for your 2014 Dodge Charger.
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  • 3 Bike Platform Bike Rack Recommendation for 2007 Chrysler 300
    For a 3-bike platform rack the Kuat Transfer part # TS03G would be a great option. We had the chance to test fit this rack on a similar 2015 Chrysler 300 and it fit and worked well. Check out the review video I attached that shows this. Platform bike racks are normally really heavy, especially ones that carry over 2 bikes like this one. The Transfer is relatively light all things considered at 52 lbs. Most similar racks are near 100 lbs. If you are in need of a hitch you'll want the...
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  • Wheelchair Carrier for a 2007 Dodge Charger
    You'll need a few things for your 2007 Dodge Charger in order to carry a wheelchair safely. First, you'll need a Class III trailer hitch, which is available for your vehicle as part # 76145. This Draw-Tite Max Frame carrier provides a solid base for your vehicle to carry numerous hitch mounted accessories. I've included a link for all compatible ramped carriers for your Charger's new hitch, however wanted to recommend one in particular that will serve your needs. The MaxxTow...
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