Trailer Brake Controller Installation - 2011 Chevrolet Traverse

content loading



Customers compare etbc7 to these similar products




Products Featured in this Video



How to Install a Trailer Brake Controller on a 2011 Chevrolet Traverse


Today our 2011 Chevy Traverse, we'll be installing the Etrailer ETBC7, seven pole connector and power wire kit. Part number ETBC7. To begin our install, we'll first mount the seven pole bracket onto our seven pole connector. We'll use the hardware provided with our install kit to secure it. Once we have our hardware tightened down, we'll then mount the seven pole bracket directly to the hitch. We'll use the hardware provided with our install kit to secure the seven pole bracket to the hitch bracket. With that done, we'll take some black electrical tape and wrap up my wires to help bundle them together and clean up our install look. Next, between the vehicle's four pole connector and four pole connector coming out of the back of the new seven pole, I'll use some Edelmann Dielectric Grease, part number 11755 to help prevent corrosion in between these two connection points.

Additionally, to help ensure that these connection points stay nice and tight, we'll wrap the two connectors with a zip tie and then we'll cut off the excess from the zip tie. Next, we'll take the gray duplex cable provided with our install kit and strip back several inches of the gray sheathing. We'll then strip back the black and white wire underneath and attach the white wire to the blue wire coming from the seven pole connector, and attach the black wire to the black wire from the seven pole connector with a pre-attached yellow butt connector. With all these connections made, we'll continue wrapping up our wires with the black electrical tape. We'll need to secure the wiring to the back of the hitch and run it over to the frame. With the wiring over to the frame, we'll take the white wire with the pre-attached ring terminal and the self tamping screw provided with our install kit, which will be the new ground for our seven pole connector and ground it here directly to the manufacturer's frame. We'll need to take the purple wire from our seven pole connector.

We'll need to add some extra length to the purple wire coming from our seven pole connector. We'll take some extra length of wire, strip it back and crimp it with the yellow butt connector already pre-attached to the purple wire. Then to remove the manufacturer's taillight, we'll first need to remove the fastener covers. Using a small screwdriver, we'll pop the caps off, then we'll remove the two fasteners that secure it and set them aside for re-installation. Now we'll gently pull back on the tail assembly, being careful not to break the alignment tab underneath. Next, we'll start routing the gray duplex cable.

This will get routed up to the front of the vehicle, up through the engine bay and over to the positive battery terminal. This will ultimately send power to our seven pole connector. This power can be used to charge things such as a battery on a boat. To assist in routing our gray duplex cable, we'll also use a pull wire, or in this case, a piece of air tubing or a stiff piece of wire will work as well to route through the frame. Keep in mind when routing your wires, stay away from moving components such as steering or suspension or excessive heat such as exhaust. We'll secure the gray duplex cable to the pull wire with some black electrical tape and then pull it into position.

We'll go as far as we can, and then follow the frame or manufacturer's wiring as necessary until we get to the engine compartment. Keep in mind as we route our wire, we'll secure it as we go. Now that we're at the top of the engine compartment, we'll take an approximate length of wire and cut off any excess. Then, we'll use our utility knife to cut away the gray sheathing. Our power wire is going to run first to a breaker, which we'll mount here at the top of the firewall with a self tamping screw provided with our install kit. The breaker we'll be using is the 40 amp breaker provided with our install kit. With the breaker mounted, we'll cut the power wire to length, strip it back and add a small ring terminal. We'll then secure it to the silver side of the breaker. Now we'll take the remaining black wire that we just previously cut, strip back one end and add a small ring terminal and the other end we'll add a large ring terminal. We'll secure the small ring terminal to the copper side of our breaker and then route it over to the positive battery terminal. To assist in securing our wire along the firewall here, we're going to drill some small holes in the top of the plastic cowling. With our wires secured, we'll remove the positive battery terminal cover and then the nut on the positive battery terminal post. We'll install the ring terminal and then re-secure the nut. Now we can close the cover and then we'll cut off the excess from the zip ties to clean up our install look. Now we'll move back to the rear of the vehicle. Using our utility knife, we'll cut a small slit in the manufacturer's opening and now we're ready to route our reverse signal lead. Using a pull wire as assistance, we'll route it down to our wire, install the wire into the pull wire and then pull it up into position. We can now route it into the cabin. Some applications you'll need to drill a secondary hole. In those cases, we'll pull the tape cover away opening up a large hole and then a smaller hole, just enough for our reverse lead wire to pass through. With our wire fed inside, we'll cover the hole back up and re-install the taillight assembly. We'll be connecting to the reverse light signal wire, which is a lime green wire. This wire is part of the manufacturer's main harness that runs about half way up behind the driver's side quarter panel. You can locate this wire by removing the jack storage cover and following it up the quarter panel. To gain access to it, I recommend you use a utility knife to cut away some of the manufacturer's tape holding the wiring harness, then pull the green wire out and use a quick splice connector, sliding it over the green wire and then follow it up by sliding the red wire into position. We'll then crimp it down, cut off any excess from our red wire. Then we'll close the clasp. Now we can re-install the jack storage compartment cover. With that, this will complete the install of the Etrailer ETBC7 Install Kit on our 2011 Chevy Traverse. .


Questions and Comments about this Video

add comment

Info for this part was:

Test Fit:
Joe V
Video Edited:
Zack K
Video Edited:
Andrew K
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Test Fit:
Nicholas E
Video Edited:
Jacob T
Video Edited:
Andrew L
Video Edited:
Kathleen M
Video Edited:
Mike H
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Installed by:
Cole B
Test Fit:
Shane T
Video by:
Alan C
Video Edited:
Sue W
Video Edited:
Chad S
Test Fit:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Test Fit:
Joe B
Video by:
Zach D
Test Fit:
Brent H
Test Fit:
Shane H
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Test Fit:
Robert C
Video by:
David F
Video by:
Michael B
Test Fit:
Ryan G

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.