Parts Needed To Flat Tow 2008 Jeep Wrangler
Updated 08/17/2026 | Published 08/08/2026 >
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Question:
Just purchased a 2008 jeep Wrangler and want to flat tow behind my 2018 dynamax Isata. I would like to understand more about what I will need to get this done. Do I want a non binding or a fixed tow bar, do I go with blue ox, demco, etc, and about brake controller? Would like to get going on this, we have a trip middle of next month. Thanks Thanks
asked by: Keith K
Expert Reply:
Hey Keith, thanks for reaching out. Yes, we can provide all the parts you need to flat tow your 2008 Jeep Wrangler. I see you already got a few parts on order. You made a great choice with the Demco base plate and Commander II tow bar. The non-binding tow bars are always recommended since they are much easier to deal with - especially when it comes time to disconnect everything after your trip.
The Roadmaster diode kit # RM-15267 is a great choice too. That is definitely what I recommend for pretty much any vehicle. There are a few other electrical components you'll need to complete your flat tow package though. Here is what I recommend:
- Roadmaster Battery Disconnect for Towed Vehicle w/ Flat Tow Brake System - Gas Only # RM-766
- Roadmaster Battery Charge Line Kit for Towed Vehicles # RM-156-25
- Demco Stay-IN-Play Duo Flat Tow Brake System for RVs w/ Hydraulic Brakes - Proportional # SM99251
The battery disconnect is required, and you will need one disconnect for each starter battery. The charge line isn't required but I strongly encourage you to get one since the braking system does put a small drain on the battery. The braking system is also required by law in most states, plus from a safety standpoint it is definitely worth getting.
Have you flat towed before? Or is this your first time?

Ken M.
8/13/2026
I have the Demco Stay-in-Play in my Ford Escape Hybrid, which I tow behind my Thor Chateau 24F class C. I bought all my tow equipment from etrailer. It’s always worked great! I had one of their recommended shop install everything for me.

Brad B.
8/14/2026
I installed the Demco Stay-IN-play on my Honda CRV 2012 EX-L 2WD and tow behind my Jayco 29MV: works great! Agree that a battery charge line for the towed vehicle is better as I replaced two batteries early on because of intense braking during heavy traffic: been fine since I'm aware of the issue and run the towed during stops to charge car battery for city traffic. Install went well: only issue was the vacuum pump didn't fit in the CRV as shown in the very helpful videos and had to weld a bracket (about the length of the vacuum pump) on the CRV in front of the engine compartment for attachment. We drive the CRV a lot and are very happy with the Stay-IN-play approach.

Richard
8/15/2026
I would highly recommend following the advice of Jesse or anybody at E-trailer. They are very smart and will set you up with all the parts you need plus if I remember right they also provide instructions on how to do. They set me up and my installer had no issue with anything. I highly recommend them. This is their job and business so you won't be steered wrong.

Product Page this Question was Asked From
Demco Stay-IN-Play Duo Flat Tow Brake System for RVs w/ Hydraulic Brakes - Proportional
- Flat Tow Brake System
- Brake Systems
- Proportional System
- One-Time Setup
- Vehicle Battery
- Fixed System
- Power Assist Brake Compatible
- Hydraulic Brakes
- Indicator Lights
- Demco
more information >
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Surfingjay
8/13/2026
I pretty much have that set up. 2013 Thor Daybreak 29PD, I tow a 2015 Cherokee Trailhawk. The charge line to the toad is a must or you will need to start your toad and charge the battery up every so often (daily). The F53 chassis was prewired for a brake controller. I used the brake controller wires for the battery charge line and the LED indicator that tells you when the brakes are braking in the toad . Worked out pretty well as they were already bundled up under the dash and back by the trailer wire connector. I am happy with the inertia brake system. There is a adjustment for how sensitive the brakes are that works well, set it, test it, then forget it. Just check the feedback LED's occasionally so you know the brakes are working. You can notice the difference to while driving. The tricky part is getting the vacuum line for the brake pedal ram through the firewall, then mounting the ram to the break pedal and firewall. Mine turned out pretty clean and it is out of the way of my big feet when not in use. When I am done driving for the day I do turn the system off completely. I have a fuse for the vacuum pump, the ON/OFF switch on the inertia controller and I unplug the trailer wiring. A couple times early on I forgot and killed the toad battery. I would install it again.