Draw-Tite Sportframe Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class I - 1-1/4"

Video Transcript for Trailer Hitch Installation - 2011 Toyota Avalon - Draw-Tite

Today on our 2011 Toyota Avalon we'll be installing the Draw-Tite hitch, part number 24870. Here's what our hitch will look like once it's installed. Next I'll give you a couple measurements to assist you with selecting accessories for your new hitch, such as a ball mount, bike rack, or cargo carrier. From the center of the hitch pinhole to the outermost edge of the bumper is 4-1/2". From the top of the receiver tube opening to the ground is 12". We'll now go ahead and with the installation. Now to begin the install of our hitch we're going to need to lower the exhaust.

To lower the exhaust we'll need to remove the rubber isolators, two behind each muffler, and one just forward of the rear axle. However, before we remove them we'll want to put a safety strap underneath to help support the weight of the exhaust once we remove the rubber isolators. To assist in removing the rubber isolators from the metal hangers we'll spray each one with a spray lubricant and then use our pry bar our pliers to remove the rubber isolator from the metal hanger. We're going to go ahead and remove the rear four rubber isolators completely from the vehicle as we will be removing the exhaust hanger bracket from the frame also, as the new hitch will take its place. With our passenger side done I'll move over to the driver side and repeat the same process. Now that we've removed the rubber isolators from the metal hangers we can go ahead and use a safety strap to safely lower the weight of the exhaust.

Now we've got one more hanger that will need to be removed. Behind the muffler on the passenger side we're going to remove the hanger from the frame. To do that we'll just remove the two bolts that help secure it. Next we'll go ahead and remove the rear exhaust hanger from the frame. To do that we'll remove the three bolts that secure it.

We'll set the hardware and hangers aside as they will not be reinstalled. There's the passenger side; we'll move over to the driver side again and repeat the same process, keeping in mind the removal and installation process of our hitch are the same. Now with the hangers out of the way we'll need to remove the heat shield. Each heat shield is secured with three fasteners. Once the fasteners are out we'll go ahead and set the hardware and heat shield aside as we will reinstall them once the hitch is in place. Next we'll need to remove the tape covering up the weld nuts on the side of the frame.

These weld nuts will become the attachment points for our support brackets. Using a flat blade screwdriver I'm just going to get underneath it and then remove it. We'll go ahead and discard the tape as it will not be reused. Now once the tape's off on the outboard side we can install the support bracket and hardware. To secure the support bracket to the frame we're going to use the 8mm bolt, split lock washer, and flat washer. We'll have two per support bracket going into the frame at the two weld nuts. Now with our weld nuts exposed we'll clean them out before we install the new hardware to make sure they'll go nice and easily. To clean them out we'll spray each one with a spray lubricant and then use our 1/2" nylon tube brush, part number 814092, to thoroughly clean out the threads of the weld nut that will built up with rust, dust, dirt and debris over time. Once we have the weld nuts cleaned out we can even take one of the new fasteners, thread it into the weld nut to make sure it will go nice and easily. Our hardware will go through the new side bracket and into the weld nut. We'll install our fasteners finger tight at this time. Now with the passenger side installed I'll move over to the driver side and repeat the same process. We'll need to remove the tape covering up the weld nuts. These weld nuts will become the attachment points. Using a flat blade screwdriver I'm just going to get underneath it and then remove it. Now it's a good idea to get an extra set of hands to help you hold the hitch while you install the fasteners. Next, using the same hardware as we did for the support brackets - the 8mm bolts, split lock washer, and flat washer - we're going to put our hitch up into place and secure it to the inside weld nuts, two on each side for a total of four. Again, we'll install our fasteners finger tight until we have them all in place. Next we need to attach the support bracket to the hitch. We'll use the new 10mm bolt and flat washer, going through the hitch and then through the support bracket. On the outside of the support bracket we'll install a split lock washer and then a nut. Now with the driver side we'll repeat the same process on the passenger side. Once we have all four fasteners installed finger tight we'll go ahead and run them down. once we have all the fasteners tightened down we'll go ahead and torque to specifications as indicated in the instructions. Note, because of the tight tolerances it may require a crows-footed wrench in order to torque down the forward upper fastener on the outside. Now with everything tightened and torqued to specifications we'll go ahead and reinstall our exhaust heat shield. Now with our heat shield reinstalled we're going to put the exhaust back in position utilizing the new exhaust hangers on our hatch, and then the old hangers that come off of the muffler. Once our exhaust is back in place we'll go ahead and remove our safety strap. That does it for the install of our Draw-Tite hitch, part number 24870, on our 2011 Toyota Avalon. .