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Digital Multimeter with 42" Long Test Leads - LED Display

Digital Multimeter with 42" Long Test Leads - LED Display

Item # PT89ZR
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Performance Tool Electrical Tools - PT89ZR

  • Testers
  • Multimeter
  • Performance Tool
  • Yellow

  • Safely troubleshoot a variety of automotive, household, and shop electrical circuits
  • Test electrical components for faulty wiring and voltage
  • Verify voltage on engine sensors, ignition, fuel systems, and charging systems
  • Large digital LED display with UL-listed leads and probes
  • Test leads are 42" long

W2969 Performance Tool Digital Automotive Multimeter

Installation Details PT89ZR Installation instructions

Video of Digital Multimeter with 42" Long Test Leads - LED Display

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Review of Performance Tool Tools for Wiring - Digital Multimeter - PT89ZR

Ellen: Hey, everybody. I'm Ellen here at, and we're going to take a quick look at the Performance Tools digital multimeter. This is something that's really handy to have any time you're doing any kind of electrical job, or you're trying to test out any wiring, maybe do some troubleshooting with some wiring that's gone bad, you want to test out your battery, really anything along those lines. So a lot of times these are just something that's handy to have in your toolbox for any of those sort of instances.inaudible 00:00:25 about this is that it does give you a pretty big digital display that makes it easy to see what's going on. You get the leads that are about 42 inches long, so should be plenty of space, or plenty of length to get connected to whatever you want. And then there's also the included attachments that have a little alligator clamp, so that makes it easy, especially for testing out a battery without having to hold the little prongs over it the whole time.

So let's take a closer look and kind of run through some of those basic tests that you might end up doing.So here's our little guy, we've got a little kickstand at the back, makes it easy to just set this on a surface, set it on your trailer, on the floor, and we'll still be able to see what's going on. I'm going to hook up my leads here, they are color-coded so it makes it easy to remember what goes where. Got a couple little ends going over the prongs here. You'd probably end up losing these, honestly, but they do kind of help protect these. They are a little bit sharp, so if you've got these in a toolbox, it's kind of nice to have the caps just to keep them from ending up in your hand.There's also a couple of caps going over these ends, which I doubt you'll ever use, unless you're pretty meticulous about taking things apart and putting them away.

I'm just going to connect this up here. Most folks like to just keep the leads attached, makes it a little easier, so you're not having to take things apart every time. I'm going to put my alligator clamps over so we can test out our battery first. You don't have to, of course, you can just put the prongs over and it's not really too hard. You just want to make sure if you are going to use these, the inside there, this might be kind of hard to see, there's a little sleeve that that prong needs to fit into.

So just want to line that up to make sure it makes good contact all the way around.To turn this on, you just need to turn the dial away from the off position. So I'm going to turn it around to the 12 volt DC portion so I can test out my battery here. Swing those guys over and then set up my little kickstand there, and then just want to match the leads to my battery. We got red going to positive, black going a negative. And you can see our display showing what's going on there, so about 12 volts, that's what we should expect to get out of this.

Now there is a hold button, it's going to be that yellow one kind of on the left-hand side, to freeze the display at whatever it's reading out. Sometimes on other multimeters, if you press that, it'll freeze it at whatever the highest rating is. But this, it's just going to freeze it at whatever it is at the time on the screen, so that's something to keep in mind.To reset it, just press it again. I've run into this, though. I'm not a huge fan of the way this functions on these multimeters, because if you don't have it connected, maybe you don't realize that you have the hold button pressed, so if you try to go and use it, it's still at zero, and it could be a little confusing. It might make you think that there's something wrong with the multimeter, but it's just that that hold is on. So as soon as we press it again, it's going to give us our true reading, but that's just something to keep in mind there.There is another multimeter available from Performance Tools that has a little bit bigger screen, and that at least does have a little indicator to let you know when the hold is on, which I kind of like, just so that you can, if something's going on and you don't realize the hold is active, it gives you a visual cue. But again, if something's going on wrong or you're just not getting a readout, or it's not changing, press that hold button and see what happens, and that should make it pretty easy.Another common way to use this is to test out wiring functions, so if you we're to plug this in and then you want to test what each port is to make sure you get things wired up, this would be another way to do that. So you'd have current going through, and then I think usually this guy is the ground, and then you'd want to run through all the functions and test out what goes where, so that's a pretty common way to do it. It does give you pretty long lead, so it makes it easy to fit that into any kind of wiring plug and get connected to make sure that you can test things out, do your troubleshooting and what have you.So all in all, this is a pretty standard multi-meter. As I mentioned, there are other couple available here at I'd say this is kind of the middle of the road one we have. Here's continuity, it does give you an audible alert. So if you want to test a fuse or something like that to make sure that there's continuity, you can use that function. It does come with instructions so that you know what all those functions are and kind of give you the tutorial of how to use it. But all in all, this one is probably the nicest, just because it is still a digital display so that makes it easy to see what's going on. But it's also pretty compact, so if you want something just a little bit smaller than the other ones, this is a pretty good option. And it does still give you those alligator clamp attachments if you want to use those to make it a little bit easier to test out something like a battery.That's pretty much all there is to it for our quick look at this digital multimeter. I hope that this has been helpful in deciding if this is the right one for you. We do have a lot of other wiring, trailer and RV accessories available here at, so be sure to check them out. Thanks for watching.

Customer Reviews

Digital Multimeter with 42" Long Test Leads - LED Display - PT89ZR

Average Customer Rating:  5.0 out of 5 stars   (1 Customer Reviews)

- PT89ZR


Ask the Experts about this Performance Tool Electrical Tools

  • Testing Brake Magnets
    I have attached a helpful article that explains how you can test your brake magnets to see if they need to be replaced. The article explains how you can perform 4 different tests to see if your magnets are working properly. You can use a digital multimeter like part # PT89ZR, to make sure you are getting the correct amperage. Many times the cost of replacing the entire brake assembly is not much more than replacing the components such as the magnets.
    view full answer...
  • Troubleshooting Optronics Camo Nightblaster Spotlight
    I spoke with my contact at Optronics and he said first you will want to test the battery by charging it thoroughly. Once charged, test the battery with a volt meter, like # PT89ZR, at 20 amps. Next check to see if you are getting a reading of 12 volts. If not, the battery needs replacing. If the battery checks out you will have to replace the halogen bulb. To do this you will need to take apart the entire light. You will want to take photos to make sure you replace all parts correctly....
    view full answer...
  • Primus Brake Controller Side Lever Adjustment and Light Staying On All of the Time
    It sounds as if you have a Tekonsha Primus brake controller without the boost function built in. Your controller should have a power adjustment wheel on the left side and a manual brake activation slide switch on the right side. If there is a lever on the side it is most likely a leveling lever that needs to be set so that the sensor in the controller is level and will supply the proper voltage with deceleration of the vehicle. The lever for leveling the brake controller is normally pointed...
    view full answer...
  • Diagnosing Popup Trailer Left Side Brake and Taillight Not Working with a 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 Truck
    It sounds like you have a problem in the trailer wiring, as you have suggested, because the trailer brake power is getting to the right side brake assembly. I would start by checking the brake magnet wires for proper ground and power on the left side. We have a video, see link, that shows testing the brake magnet that should be helpful. Make sure to check the wiring all the way back to where the magnets are grounded and the power is spliced from the right side brake magnet that is working. There...
    view full answer...
  • No Power To Trailer Brakes When Using Manual Slide Switch on Hayes Brake Controller
    The brake controller should be getting 12 volts of power through the Black wire. You will want to use a multimeter like part # PT89ZR to test this wire for voltage. The Blue wire should have near 12 volts when the manual slide is activated. You will also want to make sure the gain on the brake controller is not set all the way down. If you are not getting power leaving the Blue wire, the brake controller may be bad and will need to be replaced. I would begin by making sure you have the...
    view full answer...
  • Diagnosing Trailer Brake Problem on 16 Foot Dual Axle Trailer Pulled by 1979 Jamboree Motor Home
    Are you hearing the brake controller humming, or the brake magnets on the trailer? Use a multimeter like part # PT89ZR to test the voltage on the blue wire exiting the rear of the controller while the override switch is activated. If the controller is set for maximum power, you should see close to 12-volts. Then test the brake output pin at the trailer connector. For a 6-way, it will be the pin in the 10:00 position. For a 7-way, it will be the pin in the 5:00 position. Once again, with...
    view full answer...
  • How to Test Brake Magnet Amperage With Multimeter
    You are correct, the PT89ZR is only designed to measure up to 10A which will not allow you to measure for 4 or 6 brake magnets on a trailer. In this case I would recommend using a multimeter with a higher amperage rating or testing the magnets separately. At this time we do not carry a multimeter capable of testing more than 10A. The next section of our brake magnet testing article details how to test each magnet separately to determine if one or more of the brake magnets on your trailer...
    view full answer...
  • After Changing Brake Shoes and Adjusting Brakes, Brake Controller Does Not Fully Power Brakes
    Assuming that the Prodigy brake controller was working before, you may want to go back and look at the brakes again. In the process of repairing the brakes, the ground for the magnets could be loose. You will also want to make sure that there is no grease in the hub on the shoes or where they contact the hub. Also check the armature surface of the hub (where the magnets stick to the hub) for any discoloration which would indicate a problem with the hub. You can try the adjustment process...
    view full answer...
  • How to Bench Test Electric Trailer Brake Assemblies and Magnets
    Testing your trailer brakes for proper function on the test bench will require a multimeter that can display readings for both amps and ohms, such as part # PT89ZR. (Some brake controllers, such as the Tekonsha P3, have built-in test functions.) You will also need a 12V battery. Please refer to the linked article concerning the testing procedures for electric trailer brakes. This article includes a table of the correct current values you should read for various sizes and numbers of trailer...
    view full answer...
  • Multimeter Recommendation for Testing Voltage Drop of Brake Controller Install
    You're going to want to use a multimeter like the # PT89ZR which will show exactly what the voltage is on the brake output pin of the 7-way. Otherwise without knowing what the voltage is exactly it's hard to speculate why there would be an unknown potential voltage drop. Measure the voltage near the controller like you did and on the output pin and let me know what's going on. Keep in mind that this is proportional controller so the only way you'll see full voltage on that pin is with...
    view full answer...
  • Troubleshooting Electric Brakes Locking Up on Trailer
    Since you seemed to have narrowed the possible cause down to the vehicle side of your setup, I recommend starting with the 7-Way connector at the rear of your tow vehicle. Check for any corrosion or debris build-up inside the connector that might be causing a short and clean as needed. If the connector looks fine, use a multimeter like # PT89ZR to test for voltage at the brake circuit on the connector when you have the brakes applies using a low setting. With this setting, you should...
    view full answer...
  • Troubleshooting Malfunctioning Electric Trailer Brakes on a Utility Trailer
    After researching your brake controller, it sounds like you have a ground short on you trailer. The code OL stands for Over Load, which means a shorted or over loaded brake circuit. You will need to check the brake wiring on the trailer. Look for frayed wiring that could be contacting the surface of your trailer. Also, check to make sure all the grounds are properly secured to a clean section of the trailer. If the wiring looks good, then you will need to check the brake magnets on your...
    view full answer...
  • Troubleshooting a Tekonsha Voyager Brake Controller That is not Recognizing Trailer Connection
    There may be a chance that your brake controller has malfunctioned and may need to be replaced. To make sure I have attached an article that will explain how to test the brake controller. To check the output voltage at the rear of the control, cut the Blue wire 5-6 inches behind the control. Install the test light between a known good chassis ground and the Blue wire coming out of the control. Apply manual slide fully; using the volt meter like # PT89ZR, measure the voltage from the Blue...
    view full answer...
  • Troubleshooting Output Shorted No Brakes Message on Tekonsha P3 Brake Controller
    It does sound like there is a possible short with the brake magnets on your trailer, especially if all the wiring looks good between the brake controller and vehicle connector. I recommend first making sure that each magnet has one wire secured to the trailer frame for ground and the other is connected to the brake output circuit. Check that there are no damaged or exposed areas that might be making contact to the trailer frame. If the wires all check out, then you will want to test the...
    view full answer...
  • Potential Causes for Overheating Trailer Brake Drums
    Trailer breakaway batteries are usually rated for 5-amp-hours and are designed to keep your four brake assemblies engaged for 15-minutes in the event of an accidental disconnect. The only way the breakaway battery could heat up your drums is if it kept the brakes engaged as you drove. In the same way, if there were a short in the vehicle or trailer wiring that somehow let your 12V power feed reach the brake circuit, which would also keep the brakes engaged. Either way you would probably...
    view full answer...
  • Troubleshooting Taillight Wire Power at 7-Way Trailer Connector
    What pin of your 7-way are you testing? If you are testing the pin at 11 o'clock when facing the connection on your truck, you should have a reading anytime the truck is turned on for running lights unless you have turned off the running lights. All other plugs should be cold except the 12V at 1 o'clock. Use a multi-meter like # PT89ZR to check for the voltage reading so we can further troubleshoot. Is it illuminating the stop lights on the trailer or the running lights?
    view full answer...
  • Troubleshooting Battery Discharging and Causing Electric Jack Issue
    It is possible that there is a bad ground on your jack and it is definitely worth checking, but it doesn't sound to me like that is the issue. Since it functions fine when plugged into the truck, which uses the same ground. It does sound like there is a draw on your battery and that will absolutely affect the function of the jack, but many times the low battery is caused by something else. I recommend starting by checking the main battery ground and then making sure the trailer battery...
    view full answer...
  • Troubleshooting Malfunctioning Electric Trailer Jacks That Will Not Operate
    There are a few things that could be causing your electric jacks from malfunctioning. First, on-board power could be the issue. Check the battery and connections to make sure that you are getting full power to operate the jacks. If you have a multimeter, like # PT89ZR, you can test the resting volts of your battery. The battery should read between 11 - 13 volts. If not charge the battery and then retest. Then have someone try to operate the jacks at the same time you are testing the volts....
    view full answer...
  • Troubleshooting Trailer Disconnect Message On 2010 F-150XL With Factory Integrated Brake Controller
    Seeing as your brake controller only gets that signal when you hit the manual override on your controller, I suggest adjusting your controller and seeing if the difference in voltage sent causes that error message to not be triggered and yet still function correctly. Next, I would check the brake magnets on your trailer as they may be wearing out and the extra voltage is causing them to short. I've attached an article to help you test them since this is a new occurrence using the same...
    view full answer...
  • Troubleshooting Trailer Brakes Getting Only 8 Volts Of Power
    If you are only getting the 8 volts when you pull the pin using a meter like # PT89ZR, that has nothing to do with your brake controller as the breakaway battery is powering that from the trailer itself. You can confirm your brake controller is working properly by checking the 5 o'clock pin on your 7 way with your meter when the trailer is disconnected while having someone hit the manual override on your brake controller. You most likely have a bad ground in your wiring on your trailer....
    view full answer...
  • Troubleshooting Brake Controller Trailer Brake Issue When Not Using Manual Slide
    It sounds like it could be a brake controller adjustment issue or the brake controller could be bad. I've attached an article on Brake Controller troubleshooting to assist. I recommend checking the voltage with a meter like # PT89ZR on the blue wire coming out of your brake controller when you hit the brake pedal with your controller turned all the way up. If this reading is not in the 12V range, your brake controller is most likely bad.
    view full answer...
  • Troubleshooting Tekonsha Prodigy Brake Controller With Drag At Setting B3
    The button on the right on the Tekonsha Prodigy is the Boost button. The boost levels are pre-set based on how much the trailer weighs in comparison to the tow vehicle. For example, by pressing the button once, it will display what the current boost level is. If you see ".c" that means the boost is off. If you see ".c." (with the second dot) that means it is on. Every press of the button changes the boost level up to b.3. A boost setting of b.1 is for trailers that weigh less than the...
    view full answer...
  • How To Troubleshoot Electric Trailer Brake Magnets
    I have attached a helpful article that explains 4 methods for testing your electric brake magnets. You will need a multimeter like part # PT89ZR to check the amperage when testing the magnets. The article explains how to test the magnets while the trailer is connected to the vehicle and also explains how to do bench testing to see if the magnets are working properly or need to be replaced.
    view full answer...
  • Troubleshooting P3 Brake Controller that Has Short Error Code at 5 mph
    Most likely you have a couple wires wanting to contact each other when the vehicle is moving fast enough to shake the wires which is why the short goes away at a stop but then alternates between the two error codes you mentioned. If the problem only happens when the trailer is connected it's on the trailer's side of the wiring but if all the time it's on the vehicle side and most likely near the controller itself.
    view full answer...

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Info for this part was:

Employee Kathleen M
Installed by:
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Employee Matthew S
Written by:
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Employee Daron K
Edited by:
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