Startup Watts, Soft-Start Compatibility, and Heating Amps for the 2241A10N Coleman-Mach Unit

Updated 12/29/2025 | Published 12/08/2025

Products Featured in This Question

Coleman-Mach Underbunk RV AC w/ Heat Pump - Ducted - 10,000 Btu - 115V - R32

(3)

$1171.31

Coleman-Mach Underbunk RV AC All-In-One Kit w/ Heat Pump - Ducted - 10,000 Btu - 115V - R32

(2)

$1491.48

SoftStartRV Soft Start for Single Zone Air Conditioner Setup - Qty 1

(115)

$289.31

Question:

Im in the process of doing some calculations: what is the A/C startup current or peak Watts needed? would this unit be compatible with a soft-start add-on? why are there 2 amperage values for this heating spec: Nominal heating current: 6.5A + 4.4A Thanks!!!!!!!!

asked by: David D

Expert Reply:

Hello David,

Thanks for reaching out.

The Coleman-Mach under-bunk A/C and heat pump # CM62RR typically pulls about 8 amps during normal cooling and up to 9.8 amps at maximum load when it’s running. That translates to roughly 900–1,150 watts of continuous power draw. Like most RV air conditioners, it doesn’t list an official “locked-rotor” (inrush) current, but a realistic rule of thumb is that the compressor will momentarily pull 2–3 times its running current when it starts. For this model, that works out to a brief surge of around 2,300–3,400 watts. You really only see that spike for a fraction of a second, but it’s the number that matters when choosing an inverter or generator. If you’re powering it with a portable generator, something around 2,000 watts can work, but a 3,000-watt class unit gives you easier starts, especially in hot weather or at higher elevations.

The good news is that this air conditioner is fully compatible with a soft-start module. The compressor is a standard single-phase setup, so a SoftStartRV # SSR54FR will integrate just like it does on common roof-top A/Cs. A soft-start dramatically reduces that startup spike, which makes the unit gentler on generators, shore power hookups, and especially inverter systems.

One thing that confuses people is the heating spec showing two different amperage numbers, 6.5A + 4.4A (or 8.5A + 4.4A at max load). These aren’t two different ways of rating the heat pump; they’re actually two separate heating components. The first number is the heat pump system itself, which uses the compressor to move heat. The second number is a 500-watt electric heat strip, which is a simple resistance heater similar to what you’d find in a small space heater. When both the heat pump and the heat strip are running, their currents add together, so the total heating draw is about 1,250 watts under typical load, and up to around 1,480 watts at maximum. Splitting the numbers in the spec sheet just makes it easier to understand what each component contributes.

Since you are looking to add this unit, I would go with the Coleman-Mach Underbunk RV AC All-In-One Kit w/ Heat Pump - Ducted - 10,000 Btu - 115V # CM82RR as it is the full kit.

What kind of camper are you looking to install this in?

expert reply by: Kate F

Full Kit
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Kate F.

12/29/2025

Hey David, how did your setup go with the Coleman-Mach under-bunk A/C and the soft-start module? It’d be great to hear if the startup surge dropped as expected. Your update could make it easier for others planning a similar power setup.