Troubleshooting Weak Trailer Brake Performance for Trailer Using 12 Gauge Wire
Updated 09/30/2020 | Published 09/29/2020 >
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Question:
I have a 2014 Ram 2500 and a 2012 Keystone Cougar. Voltage at back of truck was 6-7 volts. I bypassed the entire factory brake controller system with a Tekonsha Prodigy and hard wired it in with all 12 gauge wire to include the blue wire to the pig tail. This got me 13 volts at the rear of the truck with full gain. Camper had all brake assemblies, seals and bearings replaced, all except for the 2.25x10 Alko Brake drums. This camper came with the Alko 4400lb axles which makes a bad situation even worse. I also rewired the brakes with 12 gauge wire entirely from the junction box to each brake, both Pos. and Neg. and replace the breakaway switch. Now the problem: I cant get these brakes to adjust properly following the directions. The brakes have 12V at each one but when adjusted and with full gain applied, i can still turn the wheel by hand. I have noticed the brake drag is inconsistent on the drum, it is not even but rather a lope sound, indicating the drum is out of round. If i adjust them correctly, the hub stays very hot, almost as if I am constantly applying the brakes while driving. One has a tendency to lock up. Is my thinking correct here, replace the drums?
asked by: Jason M
Expert Reply:
The issue seems to be that you used too light of a gauge of wire for the brake output circuit on the trailer. You really need to use 10 gauge wire like part # 10-1-1 which we offer by the foot for this circuit. Without the ability for the circuit to also carry the correct amperage to the assemblies as well as the voltage they won't apply strong enough.
Product Page this Question was Asked From
Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Assembly - 10" - Right Hand - 3,500 lbs
- Accessories and Parts
- Trailer Brakes
- Electric Drum Brakes
- RH
- 3500 lbs
- Brake Assembly
- Manual Adjust
- 10 x 2-1/4 Inch Drum
- Dexter
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