How to Properly Ground Trailer Marker and Taillights
Updated 10/04/2024 | Published 05/05/2015 >
Question:
does each light tail light and marker lamp need to be individually grounded? Im wiring a homemade travel trailer. Im wondering if I should run ground wires back to the frame or loop a wire all the way around. Thanks!!!!
asked by: Jen
Helpful Expert Reply:
Each lamp needs to be grounded either through its mounting studs being in direct contact with the trailer frame or by having a jumper wire ran from the lamp to the trailer frame. Ground the trailer connector at the front of the trailer, which will use the trailer frame as a ground wire. This method is the most simple and effective.
You could run a ground loop, but if everything's properly grounded, it won't be necessary. I'll link you to our FAQ article on trailer wiring.

Brent
8/23/2024
I have Peterson rear lights with, stop,turn and side marker. These doesn't have a designated spot for ground. Can they be grounded and how? Is putting a ring connector on the mounting stud,with a wire, and run that to the frame acceptable? Thanks for any help.

Featured Help Information
Miscellaneous Media
Continue Researching
- Search Results: break away battery
- Article: Trailer Wiring Diagrams
- Search Results: trailer lights
- Search Results: power jack
- Search Results: bk2 100 bearing kit
- Search Results: 2 speed square jack
- Search Results: 10~19
- Search Results: dump trailer pump
- Video: Review of etrailer Trailer Jack - Dual-Pin Two-Speed Square Tube Jack - e45YV
- Video: Feature Breakdown - Stromberg Carlson Adjustable-Height Folding Platform Step
- Video: Review of Dexter Dump Trailer Parts - KTI 12V Double Action Hydraulic Pump - DX27BR
- Shop: RV Designer Bulls-Eye LED Marker Light - Amber LEDs
- Video: An In-Depth Look at the Timken Grease and Oil Seal
- Shop: etrailer Dual-Pin Two-Speed Square Tube Jack - 13-1/2" Lift - 12,000 lbs
- Shop: Dexter KTI Hydraulic Pump - 12V - Single Double Acting - 6 Qt Reservoir - PU/PD Remote
- Shop: Dexter KTI Hydraulic Pump - 12V - Single Double Acting - 3 Qt Reservoir - PU/PD Remote
- Shop: Electric Jack w/ Footplate - A-Frame - 25-1/8" Lift - 3.5K - Black
- Video: Review of etrailer Trailer Jack - Sidewind Square 2 Speed Jack With Crank - TJD2SP-12000SP-F
- Shop: Trailer Wiring
- Shop: Replacement 12-Volt Battery for Curt Soft Trac I and II Trailer Breakaway Kits
- Shop: Hub Bearing Kit for Lippert, Dexter, and AL-KO Axles - 3,500 lb with #84 Spindle
- Video: Comprehensive Review: LED Trailer Mini Clearance and Side Marker Light with Grommet
- Q&A: Which Folding Handrail Is the Strongest? A Stainless Steel or Aluminum One?
- Shop: Brake Controller
- Q&A: Adapter to Allow LED Trailer Wiring to Connect to 2019 Ford F-150
- Article: Wiring Trailer Lights with a 4-Way Plug (It's Easier Than You Think)
- Video: Let’s Check Out the Spare Tire Carrier
- Q&A: Preferred Method of Grounding Trailer Lighting Circuits
- Q&A: Why Would 7-Way Adapter 20142 Only Work for a Few Hours
- Q&A: Can 7 x 1-1/4 Inch Electric Trailer Brakes be Used w/Hydraulic Brake Hub for 7 x 1-3/4 Inch Brakes

Josh M.
7/1/2020
Hoping someone can help me out with an issue I have having upgrading my 1993 Casita to have LED tail lights. We are leaving saturday for a 3 week trip and as typical with these situations I have piled on too many house and Casita projects before we leave. My issue is that I purchased LED taillights (oval shape) and cannot figure out why they aren't working properly (I have ordered new ones to ensure it isn't the lights themselves). I have wired based on below: -Harness (Brown) to LED (Black) -Harness (Green) to LED (Red) -Harness (Ground) to LED (Ground) --> Pigtail to ground out at frame It all seems pretty straight forward however when I plug into my tow vehicle the LED lights automatically come on without my tow vehicle lights being turned on. From there I feel like its the lights being an issue as there isn't any brightness difference between running lights / brake light and a very slight flicker when the turn signals are hit.