Fulton Grease Cap - 1.786" Outer Diameter - 1-9/16" Tall - Drive In

Fulton Grease Cap - 1.786" Outer Diameter - 1-9/16" Tall - Drive In

Item # F001503

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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F001503 - 1.781 Inch O.D. Fulton Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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1-9/16" Tall; 1-3/16" crown height. Grease cap fits trailer hubs with 1.786" inner diameter and has corrosion-resistant zinc plating. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Fulton. Fulton Grease Cap - 1.786" Outer Diameter - 1-9/16" Tall - Drive In part number F001503 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (55)
  • Q & A (10)
  • Videos (2)
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  • Why etrailer?

Fulton Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - F001503

  • Caps
  • Standard Grease Cap
  • 1.781 Inch O.D.
  • Fulton

1-9/16" Tall; 1-3/16" crown height. Grease cap fits trailer hubs with 1.786" inner diameter and has corrosion-resistant zinc plating.


Features:

  • Grease cap for trailer hubs
  • Drive-in installation
  • Corrosion-resistant zinc plating
  • 22-Gauge steel construction


Specs:

  • Quantity:1
  • Flange diameter: 1.786"
  • Crown height: 1.16
  • Flange length: 0.375"
  • Overall height: 1.535"


Dimensional Information

GC Diagram
Part No.Material GaugeFlange Diameter (A)Crown Height (B)Flange Length (C)Overall Height (D)
1500 Series
F001503221.786"1.16"0.375"1.535"



001503 Fulton Zinc Plated Grease Cap, 1.786" x 0.375" Flange






California residents: click here


Video of Fulton Grease Cap - 1.786" Outer Diameter - 1-9/16" Tall - Drive In


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Fulton Grease Cap - 1.786" Outer Diameter - 1-9/16" Tall - Drive In - F001503

Average Customer Rating:  4.6 out of 5 stars   (55 Customer Reviews)

1-9/16" Tall; 1-3/16" crown height. Grease cap fits trailer hubs with 1.786" inner diameter and has corrosion-resistant zinc plating.

- F001503
by:

Easy to order, fast shipping, works as it should. What more can you ask? 676669



- F001503
by:

Needed new grease caps for a log splitter, wasn’t, having luck finding them local. I checked out e-trailer and they had what I needed, as always with e-trailer the part was received in a few days and worked as it should. After a year it’s still working well 638678



- F001503
by:

This Item Still was too large but needed to get on road, so I used File arround outside edges of flange to file it down to fit, I'll probaly have a hard time taking it off the next service, but guaranteed it wont just pop off. 633313



- F001503
by:

I needed dust caps for a 1965 Dodge Coronet, but all those that are available thru auto supplies and restoration shops did not fit. After searching the web with the dimensions of the caps I needed, I found these at etrailer. The lip which fits into the hub was about 1/8" too long, so I machined it down to fit. The caps were too shiny. I needed them to look like the original factory galvanized ones. I glass beaded them and painted with cold galvanized spray. Turned out very nice and look like original 1965 Dodge Coronet ones. 605245



- F001503
by:

Product look great. It was slightly bigger than what i needed, but that is my fault for not checking dimension. A little brute force and it was in. It'll keep the dust out. 597695



- F001503
by:

Purchased these for a 1965 Sears fishing boat trailer. Added chamfer with a Dremel tool to get the leading edge to start into the hubs. Seated caps with a rubber mallet. Nice tight fit. 513674



- F001503
by:

Product was shipped promptly and arrived on time. Reasonable price and fit and quality were as described on web site. Overall very pleased. 506592



- F001503
by:

Size was hard to figure out but when I got the right size they were great. 500658



- F001503
by:

delivered quickly and as described. Very happy with seller. 481404



- F001503
by:

Quick shipping. Fits well. 472069



- F001503
by:

it didn't fit 436555



- F001503
by:

Customer service is terrible. ZERO commitment to customer satisfaction. I will gladly pay 100 times the cost to avoid this e-store. If they were the only store with the part I need I would SERIOUSLY replace the trailer before giving them another cent of my money. 436353



- F001503
by:

Great folks to deal with, absolutely honest and fair in their pricing, great products. 428805



- F001503
by:

Bought these for a car I'm restoring because all the automotive ones I've found have "china" stamped right on the face of them. NOT on my car...... Calipered in at the exact same size and fit perfectly. 422410



- F001503
by:

Found exactly what I wanted. Quick and easy. Just bookmarked for future use. :-) 409846



- F001503
by:

A simple bearing pack on an early 50's travel trailer axle turned nightmare. My local guys just said sorry. However, etrailer had the parts in stock at a great price. The site is very user friendly. What made finding the right parts easy was their excellent and complete listing of sizes and dimentions of seals, bearings and hub caps etc. that I needed. I found the parts to be of high quality. This combined with unprecedented customer service and fast shipping has earned them my future business. I would highly recomend them as a go to site for all your trailer needs. THANKS. 400533



- F001503
by:

Fast delivery. Fit perfect. Thanks 391546



- F001503
by:

GREAT SERVICE ANS SUPER FAST SHIPPING 390667



- F001503
by:

I cannot be more effusive in my complements of etrailer. There products are of excellent quality. Their packing and shipping is fantastically quick. 387116



- F001503
by:

Still doing it's job happy with them 361419



- F001503
by:

Old trailer.. No one local could help...fit like a charm! 355353


Comments

Still working just find. Thanks

Larry C - 03/18/2018

36054

- F001503
by:

quick shipping. Product worked well 312633



- F001503
by:

Fit perfect, fast shipping 312357



- F001503
by:

Very good product. As described, and costumer service was great! 288893



- F001503
by:

Other than waiting delivery from the US post office, everything was great 284042



- F001503
by:

I went to 5 auto parts stores looking for these caps. Went back to this web site and there they were. Always have been able to find what I needed and fast shipping. 277278


Comments

still working great.

Charlie R - 07/28/2017

26675

- F001503
by:

Could not find one this size anywhere in town. Ordered one from trailer and had it in no time. 272720



- F001503
by:

Product is just what I ordered and it came on time. would use e-trailer again. 260679



- F001503
by:

Terrific solution to conceal the extra bit of spindle snout sticking out after converting my '65 Ranchero to disc brakes. These extended length grease caps saved the day. The website was very easy to use and the shipping was on par with the best. Thanks! 260453



- F001503
by:

Did the job . 250279



- F001503
by:

We want to thank etrailer for the ease of their website and their emails informing us of the items mailing status. As ranchers we need our repairs ASAP. etrailers fulfilled all expectations. Thank you 249744



- F001503
by:

Good, quick service... I first thought they had made a mistake, however reviewed my records and the mistake was mine. Response was quick and courteous...follow-up order actually arrived early. Will do business again. Thanks 245758



- F001503
by:

Always prompt service. I have come expect it from you. 229533



- F001503
by:

I have a 30+ year old boat trailer that needed a new hub dust cover due to one being lost. I replaced both and have one for a spare. They worked fine. etrainer was the only place that I could find the size I needed. Picture is boat that is "work in progress"!Thanks etrainer! 228992



- F001503
by:

Product looks great and was priced right, but more importantly, the service was excellent, the follow-up status emails were great and delivery was fast and affordable! Great job! 209508



- F001503
by:

Very satisfied. Parts arrive within a week. Will order again in the future. Thanks. 203603



- F001503
by:

I needed a grease cap for an old handmade utility trailer, this cap will work well with a bit of work. 203592



- F001503
by:

Knowledgeable staff, friendly service, quick delivery. 202558



- F001503
by:

fits good good service thanks 201525



- F001503
by:

Fast service, easy part look-up. Good part. 194846



- F001503
by:

perfect fit and at a great price. Shipping was fast. My new place to shop for all my needs. 185534



- F001503
by:

Great no problems. 183660



- F001503
by:

A specific product is just that, a product. What sets eTrailer apart is the customer service including the communications that I received at every stage of the order process. One of the absolute best online companies that I have ever done business with. Thank you. 183608



- F001503
by:

got what I expected 181005



- F001503
by:

shipping was quick and product was exactly as described great service from etrailer 179698



- F001503
by:

Product is perfect. 135951



- F001503
by:

Fast shipping and great product. Glad I found them on your site! 131325


Comments

Product is holding up well. No problems with them getting loose or leaking grease after many miles of travel.

Earl M - 05/19/2015

11872

- F001503
by:

I took a chance that these would fit my 50+ year old trailer axle that looks like it came off the front of a tractor.. but they didn't... The product is good but my trailer is too old... 126133



- F001503
by:

Thay work great thank you 124643


Comments

got what I expected AND WORKING great

James C - 04/12/2015

10764

- F001503
by:

Been looking for a while and finally found them on etrailer. Communication was excellent and the product first rate. Shipped quickly. Will buy from etrailer again! 123439


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Ask the Experts about this Fulton Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • How to Measure to Determine Correct Trailer Hub Grease Cap
  • You will want to use a dial caliper or micrometer like part # PTW80157 to measure the inner diameter of the hub you have on your trailer to determine what size cap would be needed. Check out the picture I attached that shows this measurement being taken on a hub. I attached a link to all the grease caps we offer, once you know what size you need check out the link I attached to see all the sizes we offer. The closest cap we have to what you listed is the part # F001503 which has an outer...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Grease Cap Recommendation
  • It looks like the Fulton Grease Cap - 1.786" Outer Diameter - 1-9/16" Tall # F001503 is going to be slightly too small for your needs. The closest replacement grease cap we have to your 1.934" OD size is the Fulton # F001524 which is 1.943" OD and 1-3/8" tall. I've linked our entire selection of grease caps to this answer, the next closest size after that is the # TRAG-DC-196 which is 1.957" OD.
    view full answer...

  • Grease Cap Recommendation for Hub with 1-15/16 inch Hub Bore
  • The closest grease cap we offer to what you would need is the part # F001524 that is designed to fit hubs that are 1.943 inches. 1-15/16 inches in decimal form is 1.9375 inches.
    view full answer...

  • How to Pick Out a Grease Cap for a Boat Trailer
  • Sounds like you are looking for a grease cap for the hub on your boat trailer. You will want to use a dial caliper or micrometer like # PTW80157 to measure the inner diameter of the hub you have on your trailer to determine what size cap would be needed. Check out the picture I attached that shows this measurement being taken on a hub. I attached a link to all the grease caps we offer, once you know what size you need check out the link I attached to see all the sizes we offer.
    view full answer...

  • Tools for Installing and Removing Bearings, Races and Seals
  • We offer a tool for installing bearings, races and seals, kit # PTW83020 from Performance Tool. This is intended for installing these items but it could also work to get them out of your hubs. Sometimes mechanics will use a socket or piece of pipe sizes to the hub bore for removing old races, bearings and seals. Please refer to the linked video. We also offer dust cap driver tools, shown on the linked page. These are used for installing grease caps/dust caps like # F001503.
    view full answer...

  • Need 1-1/2-Inch Bearing Cover for Small Trailer Axle
  • The link provided will take you to our main page for grease caps. The various diameters available are shown at the top of the page. The option closest to your quoted 1-1/2 inches is the 1.786-inch size. We offer the Fulton # F001503, which is sold as a single unit. These caps are made of 22-gauge zinc-plated steel and can be installed with a rubber mallet.
    view full answer...

  • Grease Cap Recommendation to Replace Cap that Measures 1.90 Inches
  • You would want the part # F001524 which has an outer diameter of 1.943 inches. This would install in your hub and provide a nice tight fit. The part # F001503 would be too small and wouldn't stay in your trailer hub.
    view full answer...

  • Is there a bearing Buddy that Measure 1.786 Inches
  • The closest match bearing protectors we have will be either a 1.781 or 1,810. A 1.786 is not available. Make sure you are getting the most accurate measurement of the hub bore that you can. We use digital dial calipers to take these types of measurements. The outside diameter of the bearing protector is usually slightly larger than the hub bore so there is a tight fit. If you do keep coming up with 1.786 the only option we have is grease cap # F001503 that you referenced. Bearing Buddy...
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  • How to Select Correct Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors
  • You can easily switch from standard grease caps like # F001503 to Bearing Buddy bearing protectors. All you need to do is measure the hub inner bore with a precision caliper like # PTW80157. You will want to measure to the nearest thousandth of an inch, such as 1.234-inches, to select the correct size. Also note whether the bore of your hubs is threaded or smooth; we have Bearing Buddy protectors for both threaded and non-threaded hubs and in many sizes, shown on the linked page.
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  • How to Pick Out a Grease Cap for a Trailer Hub on an Enclosed Trailer
  • We have several grease caps that could potentially work for the hub on the axle you have on your enclosed trailer, see link to the right. To pick out the correct size one you will need to know the pilot hole diameter on your hub. To do this, remove the wheel and tire and remove the grease cap from the center of the hub. Usually it is a metal cap that is just lightly hammered into place. Use a screwdriver to pry off the cap. Clean the grease off and measure the opening with a dial...
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
Adam R
Installed by:
Jeff D
Updated by:
Laura H
Updated by:
Sarah W
Updated by:
Alexander C
Video Edited:
Chris R

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