Since you have Dexter 7k axles, the only thing you will need is the Roadmaster Comfort Ride Leaf Spring Suspension Kit w/ Shock Absorbers item #RM-2460-2570. This is by far the best suspension upgrade you can do to your trailer. The benefit of this…
Hey Bryan, We do not carry the garden hose adapter for that unit. We do have a replacement hose with hand sprayer #PF267003 that would work with that units quick-connect shower port. Are you specifically looking for one or the other? Or just seeing…
Hey Jason, thanks for reaching out! There are some brands we know will work with the Advent Air RV Air Conditioner #ACM135B as a plug and play, but GE isn't one of them. You're more than welcome to try it out, but you might want to have a…
Hey Peter thanks for the information. We have found out in the last year that the Advent replacement options either don't work at all, are a mess to rewire because the pins don't line up with the correct functions, and they always void the…
Hey there Michelle! While weight distribution systems are supposed to get the truck and trailer as level as possible, they are not complete miracle workers and won't make both 100% level in all situations. In fact, Andersen has a section of the…
Hey Josh, the replacement for your existing B12EA-22 brake would be #AKEBRK-7R-SA for the right side and #AKEBRK-7L-SA for the left. There are two sizes of grease seals that fit 7k axles and there isn't a rhyme or reason as to which you may…
Yes, there is Joe! We've got two options for a slide topper that fits a 82-1/2" slide out. They are the Solera RV Slide-Out Awning item #LCV000165062 in black or white item #LCV000163287. Please note you'll want to make sure you have…
Hey Carla! For a replacement you can use the HydroMax RV Fresh Water Pump - 12 Volt - 3 Gallons Per Minute - 55 psi #P25201. This is comparable to what you have now and should be an easy swap. We have actually had other customers use it in the past…
I spoke with Furrion and found that this is a known issue with the wiring on the side marker cameras #FCE48TASL. A lot of people have been installing the trigger wire in with the power wire instead of running it to the turn signal or just capping it…
Hey Robert, The Power Watchdog Surge Protector #HU82VR can be installed on the shore power lines before the transfer switch. Since it's before the transfer switch it would only be tied to the shore power and wouldn't be an issue with the…
Hey Terry, I went out to the warehouse and got both the Curt #C32NR and Hopkins #HM40978 in my hands to see which was the stronger option. Both brackets are the same thickness but the Hopkins bracket has two indentations in it that give it more…
Keep Your RV Sewer System Clean, Hassle-Free, and Smelling Fresh.
Maintaining your RV sewer and plumbing system is a messy task, which is why at etrailer.com it is our goal to help you find the parts you need without getting your hands dirty. From replacement sewer hoses to sewer adapters, waste valves to hose supports, and even minty fresh holding tank treatments, we've got what you need. Let our experts help you flush away your shopping worries, and get you back on the road to your next adventure.With over 75 years of assisting our neighbors and customers, over 1 million photos and videos taken to make sure you’re getting exactly what you need, and over 35 thousand installations completed, we’ve got the product know-how and experience to help you make the right choices for the job at hand.
What’s the right way to empty my RV’s black and gray tanks?
If you want to avoid nasty surprises (and trust me, you do), always empty the black tank first and then the gray tank. The gray water helps flush out anything left in the sewer hose, making cleanup easier. When you’re at a dump station, hook up the sewer hose securely before pulling the black tank valve—last thing you want is a loose connection. Once it’s emptied, flush it out with water if your RV has a built-in rinse system or run some extra water through the toilet. Then, open the gray tank to wash out the hose. Taking the time to do it right means fewer odors, fewer clogs, and a much cleaner system overall.
How do I keep my RV’s sewer system from clogging up?
The biggest mistake new RVers make is treating their black tank like a regular toilet—it’s not. Always use RV-friendly toilet paper that breaks down quickly, and don’t flush anything that isn’t waste or TP (seriously, no wipes, no paper towels). Using plenty of water with each flush helps keep everything moving, and adding a good black tank treatment regularly helps break down waste and control odors. If you’re parked for a while, don’t leave your black tank valve open—let the tank fill up before emptying so liquids and solids exit together instead of leaving a sludge pile behind.
How often should I clean my sewer hose and tanks?
If you want to avoid sewer smells creeping into your RV, cleaning your tanks regularly is a must. After every dump, give the black tank a good rinse, either with a built-in flushing system or by running a hose down the toilet for a few minutes. Every so often, fill the tank with water, add some cleaner or a tank treatment, and let it soak before draining. Your sewer hose also needs a rinse after each use—many dump stations have a dedicated water hose for this. Letting your hose drain fully before storing it keeps it from getting gross between uses.
Why does my RV’s sewer system smell so bad, and how do I fix it?
If your RV starts smelling like a porta-potty, there are a few likely culprits. First, check your tank vents—if they’re clogged, sewer gases can’t escape properly. A good tank flush and making sure the vent pipe isn’t blocked by debris or critters can help. Second, dried-out P-traps under sinks and showers can let odors seep in—just run some water through them to reseal the trap. And if the smell is coming from the black tank, you might need to add a tank treatment or flush it out better after dumping. Regular maintenance keeps your RV smelling fresh and your tank sensors working properly.
Why does my RV’s sewer system smell so bad, and how do I fix it?
If your RV starts smelling like a porta-potty, there are a few likely culprits. First, check your tank vents—if they’re clogged, sewer gases can’t escape properly. A good tank flush and making sure the vent pipe isn’t blocked by debris or critters can help. Second, dried-out P-traps under sinks and showers can let odors seep in—just run some water through them to reseal the trap. And if the smell is coming from the black tank, you might need to add a tank treatment or flush it out better after dumping. Regular maintenance keeps your RV smelling fresh and your tank sensors working properly.
