Looking for Trailer Taillights that are 6 inches Wide for Boat Trailer  

I bought these for my jet ski trailer. They were an exact fit replacing the old ones. No extra holes needed to be drilled. I think these lights are a standardized size. So should work fne if you have a smaller trailer thats less than 80" wide

I bought a 1990s 5x8 used cargo trailer that needed a serious lighting upgrade. I bought this kit because its LED and submersible not that its ever gonna be put under water but rather rained on making it one and done maintenance wise. Excellent light kit, very happy with it other than the plastic license plate holder. My lights are low to the ground and with that bracket its even lower. Twice now it did what I expected, it was hit and snapped off thus I just bolted any plate to the tailgate. Maybe it should be designed that the bracket can be mounted above or below? either way PLASTIC is a poor option material, Gee, some sort of metal even better thats rugged, hmmm? Overall I give 5 star, very satisfied

I bought a set of LED/submersible (>$100 package) for my 21' Mako trailer back in 2017. Recently bought these mini (slightly smaller) set (around same price) for an old 1990 stand-up jet ski and same age trailer just about a month ago. Buy them- they are worth every dollar more than the cheaper packages (non-LED/non-submersible). I live in Florida and launch my boat in saltwater frequently. And even with copious religious pressure washings after each launch and recovery I was changing lights almost every year until I bought these. The 2017 lights still work perfect and look new. Some caveats- 1. Don't ground to the trailer frame. There's an extra pin connected to ground (white wire) on both the 7-way circular and 4-way flats (all my trailers are 4-way flats). I run that ground to every light on my trailer- nothing gets grounded off the trailer frame. 2. Use heat shrink crimps and I cover the shrunk crimps with electrical wire shrink wrap -double seal. The blue splice caps for 3-way connections are always junk. I stuff 2 wires on one side of a single one size up larger heat shrink butt splice connector. So if the wires are 18-gauge, I'll use a 16-gauge butt splice in these cases with a length of shrink tube over that. The water doesn't get in (has been my experience) but if anyone is really concerned you coat a glob of 3M or other silicon caulk over the 2 wire side and that'll really seal it. 3. I isolate the fasteners on both sides of the license plate frame holes touching the trailer metal with rubber washers- zinc-nickel plated (I never use anyway- I use T304 stainless and these better light kits will include stainless fasteners anyway) or stainless will break down and corrode from dissimilar metals in salt and fresh (mineral containing) water residue and corrode anyway. When the lights do go bad with that corrosion- just need to break them off or twist them right out of the plastic light frame and replace the whole thing... That little extra step adding the rubber washers avoids this. Some people will argue the nuts won't hold as well- if you have that concern then add some medium or light strength lock-tite or other low strength thread locker compound. 4. I still ALWAYS religiously unplug my lights when I submerse them launching and recovering in the water. And I rinse the hell out of them as well as boat, trailer frame, leaf springs, and flush motor- EVERY TIME, no exceptions. And that's Frank's guide to getting 10 or 15 years out of a good set of trailer lights. I have a 3rd 6'x14' utility trailer- another set of LEDs from eTrailer I think I put on back in 2020. 6 years later - work perfect and look brand new. Get the best and do the job right and you'll be the exception to the guys always complaining about getting less than 2 years out of a set of trailer lights.